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27-12-2012, 06:31 PM
(This post was last modified: 27-12-2012, 06:32 PM by Jonny81191.)
This evening's work. Much better than the standard panel, but about on a par with the K&N panel I had fitted..
Probably not gonna bother enclosing it, it's fitted now
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Does it sound any better than the standard airbox?
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(27-12-2012, 06:51 PM)Toms306 Wrote: Does it sound any better than the standard airbox?
Marginally, all it does is emphasize how fecked the turbo is though..
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Oh dear lol.
Wanted to stick one on the Golf for noise but chose a panel instead to save the heatsoak instead....
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(27-12-2012, 06:58 PM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh dear lol.
Wanted to stick one on the Golf for noise but chose a panel instead to save the heatsoak instead....
Friend of mine had a cone on his golf and it sounded dreadful!
Doesnt even own a 306.
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Any noticeable heat-soak effects fella?
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I doubt there will be unless its a red hot summers day and even then, the effect of more warm air over less mild air is negotiable. Naturally aspirated engines suffer the most as regards to heat soak.
I have a hks reloaded air filter on mine, the inlet is 3inch, I've had to use a silicone reducer to get it on, I've felt no heatsoak issues but I'm sure its why I seem to be chewing Mafs. And it makes a nice whistle imo
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(28-12-2012, 09:08 AM)Poodle Wrote: Any noticeable heat-soak effects fella?
I was worried earlier, took it out for a drive and there there was a definite loss of power, felt like I was only using 1/2 throttle.
Opened the bonnet to see what was up, and discovered I'd stupidly forgotten to plug the MAF in. Problem solved!!
As for heat soak, none that I can determine, it pulls better now either way.
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Id like to see back to back dynos with the bonnet closed between the different set ups.
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(28-12-2012, 03:04 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote: Id like to see back to back dynos with the bonnet closed between the different set ups.
The intention is to get it on the rollers after the new snail and clutch, then get it mapped up. And yeah, I will take the standard airbox if I do a run and see what the difference is.
All I can say for now is that on the old filter, I used to rev lower due to it feeling "sluggish" higher than say 4k. It now feels like it pulls harder right up to the redline, makes it freer up at the top end.
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We really need to meet up some time when my estate's sorted and your blower/map is done. WIll be an interesting comparison. And when I overtake you i shall smog you with my win pipe.
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(28-12-2012, 04:13 PM)cwspellowe Wrote: We really need to meet up some time when my estate's sorted and your blower/map is done. WIll be an interesting comparison. And when I overtake you i shall smog you with my win pipe.
We should, And when I overtake you, I'll smog you with my win pipe that WILL coal, cos I'ma fit an injectorz in the 'zorst innit
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Mine will coal, i'ma fit a fuel line and butterfly valve in the exhaust elbow so ner
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Yeah I dont expect it to be much due to the fmic, but worth a look. Filtrations levels concern me a bit too, arron, youre not the first to fit a cone and find youre suddenly chewing mafs... Then again, for airflow purposes I think its fairly necessary to get something that can flow more than the stock item if youre taking it past stage 2.
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Arron, do you have a lot of oil of you cone filter?
KN oil (or probably similar ones too) are well known for killing MAFs on VAG engines, which is why most people go with Pipercross (dry filter). Just an idea anyway....
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Yeah I wanted a pipercross, but this was cheap so I fitted it. Not gonna oil it either, just run it while I find an alternative.
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The day has finally arrived.... I started changing the clutch!
Managed to fit the car in the garage, which is awesome cos it's warm, flat and dry
I'll let the pictures do the talking;
IMG_2435 by Jonny_Moore91, on Flickr
Air filter and battery tray out
IMG_2436 by Jonny_Moore91, on Flickr
IMG_2437 by Jonny_Moore91, on Flickr
Supporting the 'box
IMG_2441 by Jonny_Moore91, on Flickr
And how we left it, just need to move the 'box round a bit more, then change it and put it all back together!
IMG_2445 by Jonny_Moore91, on Flickr
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sloowwwwwwwww
Member of the 99% warning or you're nothing club
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(03-01-2013, 01:25 AM)samass Wrote: sloowwwwwwwww
I was at work all day..
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so? that's no excuse. all you do is make handbags
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Epic exhaust is win
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Well my paddle clutch is fitted. And slips like mad, anywhere near the go pedal and it just lights up.
So I rang CG for some advice, the guys there were really helpful, suggested I bed it in over a few hundred miles and see what it's like, they said if it still slips they can replace the friction material on it for me.
So I get to granny it for a bit. Yay. I'm so enthusiastic about the prospect of driving like Toms306
Also big thanks to Carl for helping me fit it, and Ruan for being helpful as ever
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How heavy is the clutch pedal? Could it be the pressure plate isn't strong enough?
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No mate, the pressure plate is stronger, that's for sure.
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Exhaust sounds awesome! What did you use to record it?
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Weird.
I know clutch strength increases with use to a point, would be weird to have no bite though out the box. You spoke to Max etc who run paddles?
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Cheers Phil! Just filmed on my phone, I was surprised at the quality TBF
It's a second hand one though Chris. Only done 1k or so, probably just needs to bed in.
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Ahh you cheapskate
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04-01-2013, 10:10 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-01-2013, 10:11 PM by Ricky.)
My paddle was fine straight away, although i'm running very little fuel and 14psi, you need to take it easy for 550 miles and do a lot of town driving to bed it in, according to CG.
Edit: just read the bit about it being second hand. Did you clean the flywheel up before fitting?
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Do paddle clutches glaze? Who was the previous owner and what kind of abuse did it get? It may just be that it needs re-bedding in to your flywheel.
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