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(29-03-2014, 04:45 AM)Grant Wrote: So in other words, they f*cked up with their new equipment, had a practice on this head, so it took ages, and consequentially charged you for it?
Hmm, possibly.
(29-03-2014, 09:29 AM)cully Wrote: (29-03-2014, 08:42 AM)Niall Wrote: Yeah you would use a thicker HG but there is only so thick you can get. Search for cullys engine thread. He explains in there how to check deck height and what the tolerances are
heres the link but your clearances may be different as you are fitting to a 1.8 block
http://306oc.co.uk/forum/thread-17479-po...#pid338416
peugeot do the 1.2mm MLS STD head gasket but dont do a 1.4mm repair as MLS you will have to use the fibre type from the XU10J4
http://306oc.co.uk/forum/thread-17479-po...#pid348073
0.2mm? I don't have anything that could measure that accurately tbh!
How do they make a smaller capacity with the same size bore for the 1.8 though? I know the block is ally but must be the same dimensions if you can swap on the GTi head? So is it just a different head...and if so, that'd make the tolerances the same right?
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1.8: bore of 83 mm (3.3 in) and a stroke of 81.4 mm
2.0: bore and stroke of 86 mm (3.4 in)
[attachment=14713]
That Grey cable below the 13mm bolt to the right of the exhaust tunnel is the reverse cable. I was sure i had a better photo but can't find it!
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Ah I see, makes sense....so how would we work out the tolerances for the GTi head on a 1.8 then?
And thanks for the pic, that's ideal!
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Well the pistons will not pass the deck level on the 1.8 or the 2.0 so providing you use the correct HG to take the deck height back to standard, you won't have any interference issues.
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as niall says
hence why i use a 1.4 gasket not the std 1.2 as my head had the maximum 0.2mm skimmed already acording to the measured head
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29-03-2014, 04:54 PM
(This post was last modified: 29-03-2014, 04:58 PM by Toms306.)
Hmm, need someone with a digital gauge to check then.
If too much has been skimmed off, can you get a thicker gasket made, or would it be completely f*cked?
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I would have thought you could get something along the lines of a decomp plate made, but on a smaller scale.
Have a look at the head, are the valve seats untouched? They look fine in the pic.
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(29-03-2014, 05:01 PM)Grant Wrote: I would have thought you could get something along the lines of a decomp plate made, but on a smaller scale.
Have a look at the head, are the valve seats untouched? They look fine in the pic.
A decomp plate still requires a HG either side of it so you may as well just be a pikey and stick two HGs in lol
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Christ that reverse cable is going to be a ball ache to fit! D: wish us luck tomorrow as the lightened fly and box are finally going on!
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Could get a rich w gasket think he's are thicker??
Good luck today mate,looking forward to the update
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no, RichW gaskets are not thicker, they're standard victor reinz 1.2mm items, they're available from GSF for £40
wont fit this engine anyway as they're 87mm bore, you need the o.e 84mm fibre gasket.
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So how is this going boys? It's awfully quiet
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(30-03-2014, 11:16 AM)Grant Wrote: So how is this going boys? It's awfully quiet
The silence says how well it went tbh.
So well in fact that the box is coming out again tomorrow.
First the 1.8 clutch bolts don't fit a GTi clutch...that explains the Torx/Allen bolts then, lucky I had a spare HDi set at home! Then release fork was in fine but box wouldn't go on. Eventually box went on just as it got dark. Noticed Sams 6 box had no 'pull' cable bracket....was in his shed so he called his Dad to bring it over. Whilst trying to fit bracket, noticed it clashed with the arm.....the arm is in a 'push type' location so looks like the fork didn't go in the bearing when we eventually got the box on. It was 10pm by this point so had to give up for tonight. Sigh.
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So, this was driving at about 3pm today....and I must say Rowells 1.8 is much quicker than my 1.8! And my HDi! Clutch is epically light as well.... Hopefully it was worth it in the end haha.
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Hello everyone. Right things finally got done. It took a while and meant staying the night at Toms grans house D: but its all done now. The GTI6 box fitted on eventually and we got everything plugged back in. A few of the brackets to support pipes and wiring dont fit and the lower flywheel cover also doesnt fit as normally the gti6 sump covers up the hole. On the standard 306 there is a flat spot where the reversing cable goes through. I had to drill this out and it came out probably in the wrong place, but the footwell was good enough! Didnt get the bike lever fitted as the cable end wouldnt fit the lever. Reverse has to be activated by pulling the wire :/
First we started outside in the drive...
Box fitted...
Fly wheel cover didnt fit.
Reverse cable hole drilled...
Tom working it...
and the best picture!
all finished and ready to go!
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31-03-2014, 05:43 PM
(This post was last modified: 31-03-2014, 05:43 PM by ginge191.)
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God you two do mince about don't you! lol
Glad to see its on and its driving ok. Don't worry about the cable mounting plates on top of the box. You don't see many 306s with them on at all if they have had a clutch change! lol.
I would get either a 6 sump or make up a cover though for the bottom of that flywheel as you don't want shit getting in there!
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(31-03-2014, 05:44 PM)Niall Wrote: God you two do mince about don't you! lol
Glad to see its on and its driving ok. Don't worry about the cable mounting plates on top of the box. You don't see many 306s with them on at all if they have had a clutch change! lol.
I would get either a 6 sump or make up a cover though for the bottom of that flywheel as you don't want shit getting in there!
Yes I agree and I didnt want to let stones and grit get in there. So out came bodgtasticness which will do for now!
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31-03-2014, 05:56 PM
(This post was last modified: 31-03-2014, 05:58 PM by 7057sam.)
Good work lads
Done the exhaust yet?Or driven it ?
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It will do as a temporary measure. I have a gti sump here you can have. It has a crack in it which lets oil seep (i do mean seep, its such a small amount) when the oil is warm which you could have welded or just patch with chemical metal. As long as you clean it up first, chemical metal will be fine as a repair!
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looking good there bud! how you liking the avo's?
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I have a 6 sump, but not sure on condition as engine literally dropped on floor.
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(31-03-2014, 05:56 PM)7057sam Wrote: Good work lads
Done the exhaust yet?Or driven it ?
Nope. Magnex wont fit until the gti6 exhaust manifold is on. And to put the gti6 manifold on the head needs to be on and that means the management and everything else needs to be on
(31-03-2014, 05:57 PM)Niall Wrote: It will do as a temporary measure. I have a gti sump here you can have. It has a crack in it which lets oil seep (i do mean seep, its such a small amount) when the oil is warm which you could have welded or just patch with chemical metal. As long as you clean it up first, chemical metal will be fine as a repair!
Might have to make do with that one unless I can find a better one.
(31-03-2014, 07:06 PM)sam Wrote: looking good there bud! how you liking the avo's?
The avos are very good. The tracking is still out but nowhere will track it as its too low!
(31-03-2014, 08:34 PM)kentiiboii Wrote: I have a 6 sump, but not sure on condition as engine literally dropped on floor.
Yeh I can probably do without that one
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(01-04-2014, 06:23 PM)SRowell Wrote: (31-03-2014, 08:34 PM)kentiiboii Wrote: I have a 6 sump, but not sure on condition as engine literally dropped on floor.
Yeh I can probably do without that one
Theres a chance it could be good as it dropped with subframe but maybe not worth the risk. :-)
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git6 mani fits the 1.8 head...
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(01-04-2014, 06:50 PM)welshpug Wrote: git6 mani fits the 1.8 head...
yes youre right it does. But why would I waste my time fitting it to the 1.8 head when the gti6 head is going on days later!
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string and a tape measure....tracking done!
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I find using 2 pieces of wood propped up on bricks against the wheels and use 2 measuring tapes incredibly accurate.
We even checked it with proper tackling gauges and it was spot on
I'll try and find a pic
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(01-04-2014, 07:11 PM)Paul_13 Wrote: I find using 2 pieces of wood propped up on bricks against the wheels and use 2 measuring tapes incredibly accurate.
We even checked it with proper tackling gauges and it was spot on
I'll try and find a pic
Ah that sounds great. I am trying to work out if it is toe in or out. From experience it should be toe in. On full lock the car scuttles sideways which should mean the outside wheel is pushing the car in.
The tyres are worn on the outside which should mean that there is too much toe in.
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Just imagine a few bricks under the wood
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