Jacking up front of car in one go on subframe-dangerous?

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Jacking up front of car in one go on subframe-dangerous?
#31
Yeah, that is sketchy as f*ck. The small contact area along with the fact that it isn't designed to take the weight of the car...

You're risking your life if you do it incorrectly, so listen to the advice and do it right.
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#32
Hmm, that is surprising. If the jack and the axle stand is on the sill, surely that means the car could slide forwards more easily? At least with this setup the weight is more evenly distributed.
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#33
(06-07-2013, 07:42 PM)306Puggy Wrote: Hmm, that is surprising. If the jack and the axle stand is on the sill, surely that means the car could slide forwards more easily? At least with this setup the weight is more evenly distributed.

?!?!?!

why would it slide forward?!

how is it more evenly distributed?!

its SO dodgy and terribly scary to have it on the loop
Wishes for more power...
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#34
Well the loop is more central to the rest of the chassis than the sills. If you have the vehicle supported just on the sills then most of the weight is in the middle nearer to engine which makes it more liable to slide forwards. With the area supported closer to the main weight logic dictates that it would be more stable. If there was a suitable support structure.
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#35
Er, why do you think your wheels are at the corners of the chassis? If what you're saying is true they'd put the wheels in the middle lol
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#36
Well they do do that on some cars...such as a road roller.
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#37
Mate I'm gonna sound like a lady garden here so forgive me.

How about you support your car like that on its stands, take the wheels off and i come and casually lean against the wings.

Would you let me do it with you under the car?

If the answer is no then your car isn't well supported.
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#38
Well I've certainly learnt something here. I'll use the sills from now on, thanks.
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#39
I've seen cars some off a jack once and off stands once and the force even a bare shell drops with is phenomenal. First time you see one drop you'll stop being blase.

There's people here who wont get under a car without it being on decent stands with the jack still under and the wheels under the sills for good measure.

I think the test in your head before getting under a car needs to be "now its supported do i trust its secure enough it wouldn't come off the stands if someone who doesn't like me comes and tries to push it off onto me."
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#40
How am I being blase? I just said I will use the sills from now on, sheesh. Or did you not see that post? By the way I have used to wobbling test with this method and it did not feel unstable but as I said I will use the other method from now on thanks for everyone's help.
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#41
Sorry mate, My grasp of the English language is probably dwindling as the grasp of beer tightens over me.

I considered the method before blase. Approved points are good, didn't want to see you getting hurt especially before you finish the GT20 project.
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#42
Heh, yeah. Hell knows how long that project will take!
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#43
Jack under the front wishbone mounting and place the stand on the emergency jacking point on the sill or on the rear subframe mounting points. Never ever had a point where ive felt they have been unsafe like that. Of course, leave the jack under for good measure

/thread
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#44
(06-07-2013, 08:42 PM)Niall Wrote: Jack under the front wishbone mounting and place the stand on the emergency jacking point on the sill or on the rear subframe mounting points. Never ever had a point where ive felt they have been unsafe like that. Of course, leave the jack under for good measure

/thread

Thanks Niall.
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#45
Its simple really. Just think logically. The subframe takes all the weight of the front of the car on the wheels, where does it bolt to? That point where it bolts to will be stong enough to take the weight. Same with the rear, jack on the rear axle as close to where its fixed to the body.
Clearly dont jack in places in the middle of the body that dont give any structural support. Thats when you end up like issues like my old 1.8 where you split joints and allow rust in to destroy your sills!!
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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#46
Heh, yeah, it would be funny if someone tried to jack the whole car up from the middle just to see what would happen!
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#47
my rover metro I always jack up by the subframes, as I wont trust the jacking points on a 20year + car. once the cars up in the air, I put two axle stands under either side.
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#48
(06-07-2013, 08:16 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote: I've seen cars some off a jack once and off stands once and the force even a bare shell drops with is phenomenal. First time you see one drop you'll stop being blase.

There's people here who wont get under a car without it being on decent stands with the jack still under and the wheels under the sills for good measure.

I think the test in your head before getting under a car needs to be "now its supported do i trust its secure enough it wouldn't come off the stands if someone who doesn't like me comes and tries to push it off onto me."

Heh, yeah that'd be me! As soon as that wheel comes off it's put under the sill just incase both the jack and stand decide to give in at the same time!

Although I must admit I have jacked on the loop before, hadn't realised it's not safe so won't be doing that in future - you learn something new every day, cheers Smile
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#49
I use the sump and the rear diff to jack the impreza up. Then axle stands under on the chassis rail( not the cill). Need to lift both sides at once because if you just lift one, the chassis is soo stiff it lifts the rear corner!

Tim.
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#50
(06-07-2013, 08:56 PM)Niall Wrote: Its simple really. Just think logically. The subframe takes all the weight of the front of the car on the wheels, where does it bolt to?

Being a pedantic bastard, no, it doesn't, the top mount takes almost all of it...


However, yes, the rear subframe area where it's bolted up is one of the stronger places to put stands/jacks.
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Top engine mount repair/reinforcement/chocking for cracked chassis and high powered cars, drive in, drive out, 2 hour turnaround.
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