Stanced XUD Estate (IT'S ALIVEEEEahahaha)

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Stanced XUD Estate (IT'S ALIVEEEEahahaha)
Are injectors much of a much-ness? As I thought you could get them refurbished? I know that's the case with petrol injectors because racers are constantly getting the injector flow tested and refurbed.

Actually a quick Google says that it costs £20ish to refurb a diesel injector, plus VAT...that's gonna work out expensive!
Disclaimer: The above is not to be taken to heart and is probably a joke, grow up you big girl.
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c.a.r. Wrote:Are injectors much of a much-ness? As I thought you could get them refurbished? I know that's the case with petrol injectors because racers are constantly getting the injector flow tested and refurbed.

Actually a quick Google says that it costs £20ish to refurb a diesel injector, plus VAT...that's gonna work out expensive!

You can also refurb them yourself for much less than that but its not going to magically change Lucas injectors into Bosch ones which is the problem here.............. lmao

And no they aren't "a much of a muchness" they have specific spray patterns and break pressures Wink
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lmao

Should I go for them at £45? Expensive but desperate times...
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Just go for it. £20 would be fair for a set of bosch injectors imo and whats an extra £25, really? In the grand scheme of things you could have probably lost £25 during this project and you wouldnt have noticed lol
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Shut up! I've worked to a very strict budget, honest!

Rear bumper needs work. Appears to be rubbing, erm, slightly
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lol Do i take "slightly" to mean some epic trimming is required?? Just get them bought if you can't find any others mate although it will run well enough on the lucas ones if you wanted to wait for some cheaper ones.........
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"Well enough" isn't good enough though, is it? Injectors are leaky anyway so at least need to replace the seals so they're coming out. What size funky socket are they?

And yes, about 1" of bumper needs cut off lmao
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27 or 28mm for injectors, both will work fine from my experiences.
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Just for your information mate, you can get hold of BRAND new injectors from pug - they confused themselves when i went to order some, you can the ACTUAL injector for around £60 each, of the injector and seat for £90 each.

Could be an option, but strongly recommend not stinging on decent injectors, if you buy used ones and get them refurbed - you'd may as well buy new ones.
Diablo Hdi Dturbo and 205 1.9 project - it lives!
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Refurbing injector yourself is a peice of piss tbf. Iv been at my new job for just over a week and must have done like 6 sets already, and did my first set after about an hour of explanation - on my first day lol
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Dan! Wrote:Refurbing injector yourself is a peice of piss tbf. Iv been at my new job for just over a week and must have done like 6 sets already, and did my first set after about an hour of explanation - on my first day lol

i thouht we were still talking about using these lucas injectors on his bosch ... i am tired so forgive me if i missed something :roll:
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Well I thought we were talking about the cost of second hand injectors + a refurb compared to brand new injectors. Seems thats what you were getting at in your post.... :-| I was just saying, a refurb doesnt have to cost £££, its a firly easy DIY, people just dont want to touch them.
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Dan! Wrote:Well I thought we were talking about the cost of second hand injectors + a refurb compared to brand new injectors. Seems thats what you were getting at in your post.... :-| I was just saying, a refurb doesnt have to cost £££, its a firly easy DIY, people just dont want to touch them.

oh i refurbed one of mine as it fell apart when i took it out Doh

bit of diesel, small brushes, tissue roll, and new/old parts - quite simple.


and spellowe - sure i've posted before, but perfect guide here http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option ... &Itemid=28 if you need it
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Pretty good guide there. Its really quite simple, pretty much just unscrew it and take it all apart, theres not many internals to loose/mix up.

Although, thinking about it. Lucas injectors break at around 130bar dont they? And Bosch 170 or 180bar? Do you reckon you could just fit a larger washer abover the spring on a lucas injector to increase the break pressure/point? :think:
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Dan! Wrote:Pretty good guide there. Its really quite simple, pretty much just unscrew it and take it all apart, theres not many internals to loose/mix up.

Although, thinking about it. Lucas injectors break at around 130bar dont they? And Bosch 170 or 180bar? Do you reckon you could just fit a larger washer abover the spring on a lucas injector to increase the break pressure/point? :think:

..i wouldn't rely on it myself or as this is quite a unique project, why the hell now

I'd just go for bosch refurbs.
Diablo Hdi Dturbo and 205 1.9 project - it lives!
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cwspellowe Wrote:"Well enough" isn't good enough though, is it? Injectors are leaky anyway so at least need to replace the seals so they're coming out. What size funky socket are they?

And yes, about 1" of bumper needs cut off lmao

No, true, but it saves you spending money thats not required Tongue and are you sure its the injectors that are leaking and not the leak off pipes above, or the union or the washers under the injector? lol

You want one of these - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-EXPERT ... 054wt_1189

And only an inch Tongue I was expecting something like that from the way you said it!
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mark_airey Wrote:
cwspellowe Wrote:"Well enough" isn't good enough though, is it? Injectors are leaky anyway so at least need to replace the seals so they're coming out. What size funky socket are they?

And yes, about 1" of bumper needs cut off lmao

lol no but it saves you spending money thats not required Tongue and are you sure its the injectors that are leaking and not the leak off pipes above, or the union or the washers under the injector? lol

You want one of these - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-EXPERT ... 054wt_1189

And only an inch Tongue I was expecting something like that from the way you said it!

I've just bought that socket - never used it on the car but it doesn't seem "that" deep (deep) enough to get over the leak off points anywho.
I can try and confiirm if its any use?
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there is one behind me on the shelf that has been used many times, I can vouch that they fit Tongue thats why I linked that one Wink
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Well then there we go lol

pretty snappy delivery on those as well Smile
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Ideal cheers fellas. I know it's the injector seals as fuel/air bubbles squeeze out from the base of a couple of injectors
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I have reek in my life! <3

Too much reek mind. And sky high oil temps. Left it running for ten mins to allow fluids to circulate and the oil light came on. Anyone know what the ph2 with no oil temp/pressure gauge clocks indicate when the oil and stop lights come on? No oil leaks anywhere so levels aren't low, in fact I overfilled it by about half a litre so need to drain some.

Coolant temp gauge barely crept over 75 but oil filter got almost too hot to touch, radiator never got warm either. Checked the pipes and nothings kinked. Had a Pinhole leak from the pipe that goes from lower hose behind engine into the block so replaced that pipe. Quite a lot of reek if you mash the pedal too but not if you slowly increase the revs. Could this be causing the high temps? And could that be what the dash is indicating with the oil light?

Also, could too much advance cause the smoke and high temps? Pump looks almost fully advanced and engine sounds more clattery than it maybe should.

On a more positive note though, brake, pas fluids are in as are gearbox and engine oils. Just need to get it running right and it's ready for MOT, couple of bits need painting too.

FCS here we come!
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If you are still on the Lucas injectors that will be the answer to the excess smoke and clatter, if the smoke is black then its just excess fuel Smile

Oil is normally hot lol but the light on the dash means low oil pressure so hopefully its a faulty sensor!
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Possibly. Light came on dimly so could be bad sensor.

More bad news, team orange engine bay has a new member. Popped the rad cap off and got massive pressure blowing coolant out, temp gauge barely registering though.

Thermostat sticking closed maybe? Would explain rad staying cold as engine heating up?

Also, what psi should these show when revved under no load? Gauge seems to show about 8psi as the turbo starts whistling, standard pump and untouched wastegate on T2.
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Did you bleed it like I told you to? I bet you didnt.... Tongue
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Yes I did actually and got an orange goatee :laugh:

Saying that it lost coolant with the burst pipe so may need to bleed it again, didnt pressure bleed it just topped up and cracked the nipples.
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Ah good man. Well they can be a bit of a whore to bleed so try doing the nipples again (no joke) and run the car with rad cap off for a bit.

Also, did you change the HG when the engine was out or not?
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Nope, don't think it's hg related though as there were no signs of any symptoms when we looked it over.

The systems pressurising almost as soon as it's cranked, hoping it's either massive airlock or thermostat. Temp gauge is acting normally.

Rev counter has stopped working though, is the sensor the grey plug on the thermostat housing that runs to the back of the engine?
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Chris if you don't get the rev counter working by FCS I have one you can have for a few of quid in the forum pot Smile
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Sorry to shit on the bonfire but that sounds quite headgasketty. That's exactly the symptoms jake had after we'd rebuilt half of his engine, as soon as you cranked it boom coolant blew out of the cap... Certainly worth a sniff test I'd say.
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Dan! Wrote:Sorry to shit on the bonfire but that sounds quite headgasketty. That's exactly the symptoms jake had after we'd rebuilt half of his engine, as soon as you cranked it boom coolant blew out of the cap... Certainly worth a sniff test I'd say.

Sounds very similar doesn't it, stupid pressure while cranking over Sad

Hope its not that serious though!
On the 306 waiting list.
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