Dr_Jekyll & Mr_Hyde Estate Project

[dr_jekyll]

Losing intrest in the car now and starting to think about backing off on the mods and just moving on...

Got the coilovers on in the end. Been told by several people that the helpers MUST be on the top. Sorry but anyone upset by me running them on the top can go cry elsewhere. Im running them at the top for a practical reason, the plastic seperating cup for the springs grates on the coilover threads when wound fully down.


The adapted top mounts fitted spot on. I set them in by roughly 10mm compared to the stock position which i think has related to maybe .5/1° of camber. Basically barley noticable.
Have found the setup to actually be more comfortable then the b4's and springs though it feels alot more "skitish". Im not sure if this is down to running rosejointed top mounts and having no play there or if its just what coilovers actually feel like (my first ever coils btw). Anyway ive wound the dampening to its softest setting to see if it helps.
Might even find ive sat the car on its bump stops but not sure how to check it.

Finally got round to making an egr blank with the fitting for my egt gauge. Gone abit overkill and made it out of scrap stainless from work but looks the part atleast [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]


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[Paul_13]

You probably need to do your tracking as you're changing theggeometry

[dr_jekyll]

You probably need to do your tracking as you're changing theggeometry

Deffo as everythings been off again.

How do i tell if im on the bump stops? These spax came 2nd hand with stops but not actually sure if spax rsx need them or not... she just feels very static for the apparent softest setting


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[Poodle]

Try turning the damping up a bit at a time, too little can be just as bad as too much.

[dr_jekyll]

Try turning the damping up a bit at a time, too little can be just as bad as too much.

Will give that ago, cheers. Just took the bloody fuel cooler off getting into my gf's drive lmao [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]

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[Paul_13]

It's that the bit under the car protected by the metal tray? Wondered what it was

Nearly did the same yesterday getting into the new house. Builders half finished the drive and left a mountain of a bump

[dr_jekyll]

It's that the bit under the car protected by the metal tray? Wondered what it was

Nearly did the same yesterday getting into the new house. Builders half finished the drive and left a mountain of a bump

Yeah cooler for return fuel

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[Ruan]

You're not serious with that EGT probe location surely... That's gonna measure sweet FA.

[dr_jekyll]

You're not serious with that EGT probe location surely... That's gonna measure sweet FA.

Pretty sure its gonna measure the manifold temp pre turbo which is what i want to give me an idea of the temp so i dont bake it

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[bashbarnard]

You're not serious with that EGT probe location surely... That's gonna measure sweet FA.

Pretty sure its gonna measure the manifold temp pre turbo which is what i want to give me an idea of the temp so i dont bake it

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yes that is the point of them. however it looks like the probe doesnt protrude into the manifold gas flow causing your issue. you could get a couple of hundred degrees out there. imo moving it close to that plate would be better for more accuracy but still not ideal

[dr_jekyll]

Ahhh f*ck.. ok will it still not register better there then post turbo due to heat convection?

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[bashbarnard]

Ahhh f*ck.. ok will it still not register better there then post turbo due to heat convection?

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hard to say really. im not a physics whizz. however its a simple design change. the idea in principle is good. just not perfect thats all

[dr_jekyll]

Ahhh f*ck.. ok will it still not register better there then post turbo due to heat convection?

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hard to say really. im not a physics whizz. however its a simple design change. the idea in principle is good. just not perfect thats all

Fair play. Was trying to go for an easy fitting approach. Will have to see what happens i guess but tbf i shouldnof fitted a gauge before fittingbthe turbo. The lot would have to be removed to drill the mani just to avoid the risk of swarf in the turbo

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[Ruan]

Won't measure naff all, seriously, the heat inertia of the probe itself barely reads the temperature accurately until ~5 seconds later anyway even when directly in the flow, you'd have been better measuring post turbo than there...

Unless there's actual flow there, you seriously won't measure anything. I'd leave that nice plate and attach a manifold pressure gauge and drill the probe into the manifold properly.

Or if you really can't, put the probe post turbo as close as you can get it.

[Sambarker]

Best relocating probe closer to turbo, could always use that port as a take off for EMP?


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[dr_jekyll]

Well thats been put on the back burner 😐
Went to a meet last night and manage to blow the clutch out. Not even a year old yet. Wish i could hold my hands up and say i was doing somthing stupid with it but cant even do that [FACE WITH LOOK OF TRIUMPH]

Anyway pics as per norm of the clutch coming out and damage to paddle no: 2


I can happily say ive been on the blower to larkspeed about this and theyve said it should be covered by the years warranty. Sent them pictures which there going to forward to cg and fingers crossed a replacment will be supplied free of charge like they said it "should", but of cause this is all ifs, buts and maybes atm. While its off the road ive got some mot prep to do anyway and beings im not so strapped for cash this time want to see that the seals and bushings in the box are replaced as well as the crank seal. Seem to be lucky in the aspect the flywheel is undamged and evenly worn too

As for now tho a very sad looking pug


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[Eeyore]

bad luck. saw on fb you had to be towed. Keep the car. Its specific to you so wouldnt be worth anything as a whole. the compbrake top mounts are balls. I just bought baker bm and returned mine. Do you have the same issue as me now where the shaft of the coilover sits too far down the strut top bearing? I havent solved mine yet but the shaft is too low so mine just bottoms out in the shock.

[ozonehostile]

Cg clutches seem to have nothing but issues these days. I had one in my hdi for a bit but took it out after it refused to bed in after a couple of thousand miles and it had f*cking awful Rattle where it didn't fit the shaft properly. I'll not be buying another

[dr_jekyll]

bad luck. saw on fb you had to be towed. Keep the car. Its specific to you so wouldnt be worth anything as a whole. the compbrake top mounts are balls. I just bought baker bm and returned mine. Do you have the same issue as me now where the shaft of the coilover sits too far down the strut top bearing? I havent solved mine yet but the shaft is too low so mine just bottoms out in the shock.

I think it is bottoming out as found evidence earlier of the bump stops falling to bits because theyve been over compressed. Im not sure wether to remove the stops and stiffen the shocks or not.

Comps just needed modding. Seem good and there was no play in them so gonna see how i get on with em. Technically they were a feebie after swapping anyway as sold the rear spax shocks from the set. Have you got spax rsx aswell?

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Cg clutches seem to have nothing but issues these days. I had one in my hdi for a bit but took it out after it refused to bed in after a couple of thousand miles and it had f*cking awful Rattle where it didn't fit the shaft properly. I'll not be buying another

Had the same issue with bedding in. They said to me it was due to oil residue but it was bone dry! Eventually bedded after 3k which took the piss.

Yeah mine rattled on the spline too. Did my nut in and used to play with the clutch peddle to mask the sound

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[Eeyore]

i have got avo gtzs.

[dr_jekyll]

i have got avo gtzs.

Any tips? Do i need bump stops on coilovers as never owned a set untill now

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[dr_jekyll]

Right.. random question, as i wanna rebuild the seals etc while im in this area do these look right?
Also ordering fork bushes because in a word there f*cked.

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Also replacing the bolts for the pressure plate, they were abit naff the last time i fitted them and this time i had to undo to of them by smacking them with a screwdriver. Got shit loads of bolts at work and was wondering if stainless capheads would be ok? And are washers required or run without like the oem setup?

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[Toms306]

Yeah those all look right. The oil seals are the older design though, they no longer have the white plastic inserts, not sure what difference it makes!

Not sure what your uprated pressure plate is like but the Torx bolts are used as there's not enough space to fit hex head bolts on the standard one.

[dr_jekyll]

Yeah those all look right. The oil seals are the older design though, they no longer have the white plastic inserts, not sure what difference it makes!

Not sure what your uprated pressure plate is like but the Torx bolts are used as there's not enough space to fit hex head bolts on the standard one.

Wasntbsure on the driveshaft seals but they looked identical to the oem so wanted to go for them.
With the crank seal do i needbto drop all the engine oil first?
Will measure the cap heads against these but pretty sure the heads roughly the same size.
Clutch is coming home with me while the car stays at the miss's incase i need to send the clutch away. At least i'll have it at home to try the capheads in

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[Toms306]

I haven't done a crank seal, but I'm pretty sure the sump holds the full amount so shouldn't have to drop the oil, hopefully someone will confirm that though lol.

[Poodle]

Yeah no need to drop the oil to do the rear main. All those seals look correct from the pictures given.

Interesting to see CG are still struggling with quality issues.

[welshpug]

£10 for bushes?! like half that from a dealer.

[dr_jekyll]

Yeah no need to drop the oil to do the rear main. All those seals look correct from the pictures given.

Interesting to see CG are still struggling with quality issues.

Cheers
Yeah thats the 2nd sprung ive had go. Hoping to request a solid for the replacement if i get one under warranty.

Wear seems very mild and friction pads are close to new, even with all the major bedding issues i had.
Wear on the pressure plate itself is very uneven but i put this down to the bits that must have been ratterling about in there.

Considering the life left in her im tempted to pay the £80 to get it re-centered by cg. Where pattern is matched to the pressure plate so would make a decent budget clutch for the gf's stage 1 were hoping to build her.

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£10 for bushes?! like half that from a dealer.

Cheers for the heads up, not bought any yet just initially looking

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[Frosty]

Still does seem to be luck of the draw with the clutches from cg, touch wood mine is still going ok.

As welsh pug said you can get the fork bushes cheaper from peugeot, maybe worth pricing all the bits up with peugeot tbh. Atleast you then know the quality will be decent. The crank seals can be a bit of a pig to fit, i got a seal with a cone with it to help fit it so don't catch the seal when fitting it.

[dr_jekyll]

Still does seem to be luck of the draw with the clutches from cg, touch wood mine is still going ok.

As welsh pug said you can get the fork bushes cheaper from peugeot, maybe worth pricing all the bits up with peugeot tbh. Atleast you then know the quality will be decent. The crank seals can be a bit of a pig to fit, i got a seal with a cone with it to help fit it so don't catch the seal when fitting it.

Have heard some people have issues with aftermarket seals too.. dropping the flywheel off isnt exactly a 30 sec job 😐 peugeot it is

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