Dr_Jekyll & Mr_Hyde Estate Project

[dr_jekyll]

Ok so productive day. Turbo is now on. The tip of it is currently resting on the gearlink mount but as the links move free atm i'll solve that later.

As i mentioned yestoday the actuator was my bigest downfall. Because of the daft mods i had made to the gt2052s actuator i was unable to save it. Instead ive had to re-use the gt15 actuator ive gotta pray can take the shit. So the idea was to build a similar mount to adams (pictured below)

So because i had to use the gt15 actuator ive actually been able to simplify the design a little bit on the bracket. This is what ive come up with
This has been in and fits lovley. Only problem was i didnt have the oil return in at the time because the pipe ive ordered is too tight. My greatest fear with the actuator is that it will spin on the single mount ive made but this can easily be fixed when my welding buddy pops over.
I deemed the oil return a good point to stop tonight as i was getting pretty annoyed with it. The pipes been sat in boiling water with two sockets crammed into it to stretch it abit. Will then sit it in the fridge overnight so fingers crossed that does it.

As it stands to finish the job i need to:
-fit oil return
-mount actuator
-refit maf and filter
-wait for stock mount to arrive and fit
-refit boost pipe
-fit c5 bottom pipe
-run new lines for manual boost controller
-fit new driveshaft
-have new downpipe made
-fit metal gear links

Concerns:
-Turbo resting on gear link but not hindering it
-the shudder that was never solved
-actuator spinning
-missing exhaust stud...



So fingers crossed the old girl works, few thinks to look at but making progress now

[205dtub]

Nice progress, keep it going!

[Poodle]

Iirc you'll need to move that gear linkage assembly left and down a bit on it's mount to make it all fit and drive properly without fouling. Coming on well, fair play.

[Jonny81191]

Iirc you'll need to move that gear linkage assembly left and down a bit on it's mount to make it all fit and drive properly without fouling. Coming on well, fair play.

No need to move it across, just all the way down.

[dr_jekyll]

Iirc you'll need to move that gear linkage assembly left and down a bit on it's mount to make it all fit and drive properly without fouling. Coming on well, fair play.

No need to move it across, just all the way down.

Is it possible to do this with the engine in and maybe jack it up? Theres no way im taking the engine and turbo off [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]

Either that or could someone talk me through how do drop the subframe as its a task ive never undertaken

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Just wanna add if the subframe has anything to do with the two socket head allen bolts on the subframe ive smudged 60% of the head of them on norfolk roads

[Eeyore]

With the engine mount I went to have my baker bm one fitted but Carl chambers said it looked more like a 205 one and didn't look better than standard. I'll see if baker bm will send me the new design.

[dr_jekyll]

With the engine mount I went to have my baker bm one fitted but Carl chambers said it looked more like a 205 one and didn't look better than standard. I'll see if baker bm will send me the new design.

Engine mount wise the buffers that are supplied are the same style as 205 ones were they bolt on. Id already had the chassis chocked so couldnt use them but there a much better design.
Spoke to stew yestoday as im down on the list to trial one of his new prototype engine mounts that sounds pretty sexual. Same styling as a vibra with interchangable rubbers for levels of comfort.
Had to straighten the old mount yestoday just to plonk the engine down again but as a temp thing got a stock mount on the way and gonna tig the base of the bakerbm at work as i seem to have a tendancy to half cheap nasty mounts.
This is all a temp solution until stews happy to realise the first prototype

[dr_jekyll]

Ok so lets start iff on a huge high for me. Ploughed along today and got everything done!
Started off getting that oil line on i had to stretch and the actuator. As seen in the pic below the actuator arm was just on the piss so had to re-adjust the holes till it found a comfortable position.

So once that was in it was a matter of making this c5 2.2 lower pipe fit. Was a matter of trim the turbo end and it went straight in. Now the turbo housing didnt have a nipple for boost pressure like ive seen on the stock gt15 so bought an aftermarket jobbie that fits in the side of the silicone

Once this was in was time to run the mbc lines up

Ive been having a few issues with gear links popping off so thought at this bought it was worth the investment into metal links. These have improved the throw no end on the gear stick and make it feel more supported.


So after everything shes on and running. Cars back together ready for the downpipe saturday. Also managed to solve the previous jusdder wuth another new drivers shaft!
Ive still got the minor issue of the turbo sat on the gear link bush but dont feel that bad. Tempted to bang it into a garage to let them drop the subframe for that one.

And one final wo. Whilst letting the off the jack i descovered my passanger sill has rotted through to the extend i can push the carpet on the inner

So this is to be the next major job... .

[Eeyore]

what... how is it that bad? Even my rallye isnt that bad! to my knowledge...

[dr_jekyll]

what... how is it that bad? Even my rallye isnt that bad! to my knowledge...

It is or isnt bad???

[Eeyore]

if you can touch carpet then thats pretty horrific!

[dr_jekyll]

if you can touch carpet then thats pretty horrific!

Ive got a man for this type of job. Reatores manta's so knows his shiz

[HDi--Power]

You know the oil feed and drain on the chra need to be vertical, it looks like your oil feed is going in the side of the turbo and out the other side? that will never work

[dr_jekyll]

You know the oil feed and drain on the chra need to be vertical, it looks like your oil feed is going in the side of the turbo and out the other side? that will never work

Surprisingly it must as that was the same orrientation as the gt15. I did take that into consideration and the oil feed in actually raised above the oil out but straight away the oil feed in has to climb from the bottom of the block.....

[HDi--Power]

The orientation as standard is within 12 degrees of vertical, any more and the oil will pour out through the turbo seals, it may be the picture but it doesnt look even close to me.....

[dr_jekyll]

Liturally the same orientation as the gt15 tho. Only pain was because everything is slightly offset uve had to bend the oil feed to avoid the line hitting the driveshaft

[HDi--Power]

It may be the picture but it looks at least 30 degrees off if not more, maybe try snap another pic. Its not enough for the oil feed to be above the drain, it literally has to be an almost vertical drop through the turbo straight up and down

[dr_jekyll]

That give a better idea fella?

[Piggy]

Yeah them oil lines aint good bud... Thats like 90degrees sideways!

Longest ever mbc lines too...epic that

What you guna do about the rust!!!??? Thats horrid

[dr_jekyll]

Will it kill the turbo then? Liturally just built it the same as adam fields.
Rust will be sorted asap

[Jonny81191]

Yeah, that'll kill the blower in no time. Get the oil drain at the lowest point.

[dr_jekyll]

Yeah, that'll kill the blower in no time. Get the oil drain at the lowest point.

Well just in case your right just bought another was cheap enough and got a rebuild kit sitting here. Can never be too safe

[Poodle]

Haha they're definitely right, that'll shit the turbo in no time like that.

Subframe will need to be dropped to get that gear pivot mount adjusted as it'll needing cutting down and rewelding. Subframe is a piece of cake - undo the bolts holding the pas rack on and cable tie it up out of the way, split the balljoints and undo one end of each drop link, pop the gear selector off it's bush, then it's just the clutch cable and power steering pipe clips, lower engine mount and 6 subframe bolts and she's off. Maybe a couple of hours work if you don't know what you're doing.

[dr_jekyll]

Guess we'll see :/ got the back up for when it does but just cba to go down the back again atm which sounds bad [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]
Actually managed to get that link out yestoday by jacking the engine on the lower mount


Chopped the bushes down etc to make it lower.

And this was the clearance gained
Also snap of the new down pipe
.
Driving it last night can here it still just taps it. Still a wee bit more i can take off it tho and on squidgey engine mounts atm. Lower fork bush has shat itslef and got a solid bakedbm nylon to fit and top engine mount is a stock again so dosnt help.
As for the turbo im prepping for when it does go. Nothing goes right first time and if it does your a lier [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]
Got a few more mods to undertake to help it. As in oil drain was bent on an angle to clear the drive shaft and nipped it a little. Got another so this will be cut down to the bend and a new new lip welded on to stop the pipe blowing off.
I wanted to rebuild the old unit but couldnt due to 3/4 exhaust bolts being siezed and damaged. Again. New turbo can be soaked, free'd and rebuilt.

It may go bang but ive now got the base here to work from for my stage 3. Had no car while doing this and now a turbo change when it pops will be day

[Paul_13]

Don't fit that solid nylon bushe from experience! Trust me.

You'll have no teeth left, or dash, or car if it's rusted that much

[dr_jekyll]

Don't fit that solid nylon bushe from experience! Trust me.

You'll have no teeth left, or dash, or car if it's rusted that much

[FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY][FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY][FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]
I dont mind the rattle to be fair. Passangers seem to care more than me.

On the rust note does anyone know where i can get full sills from for a reasonable price?

[welshpug]

if you can see carpet its the floor thats fooked surely? unless all 2-3 sections of sill are buggered.

[dr_jekyll]

if you can see carpet its the floor thats fooked surely? unless all 2-3 sections of sill are buggered.

Floor is patchable but its actually running along the sills under the skirt

[welshpug]

i'd reshell tbh.

[dr_jekyll]

Didnt ask to reshell tho? Pity if some of you lot worked on old beemers or dubs. Oh no its rusty, f*ck it scrap it and reshell [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]