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How do we remove it then? Doubt I'm strong enough to bend it back by hand. Or with my 9 stone weight stood on it lol... Fortunately they all seem to be the same size so the ones from the skinny arb can be used if we get that one off.
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ive got a few grinders lads. ill bring one in with a disc for you when toms mot is. get the shock bits ordered
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13-01-2016, 08:52 PM
(This post was last modified: 13-01-2016, 08:53 PM by Toms306.)
I have got a grinder but don't trust myself with it. Was wondering if I brought the arm in a bit early on Monday if you could quickly cut it out for us? I don't mind leaving it with you a few days even...
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More than happy to cut out whatever you need man. bring it up and ill make it so for you. probably even got a spare bolt
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Nice one. I'll bring it on Monday then, can leave it with you a few days and pick it up later in the week if that helps. I think we've got a new bolt with the other beam parts so will just need the sleeve... Not sure if the sleeve needs to be specific though or if they're standard?
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sleeve is an AVO specific part.
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Cheers Tom. Im sure we will get it out. Good work for today. Im sure the brake line kit has arrived and ill bring it over at the weekend and if the weather is half decent we can give it a go!
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Yep, can you get a sleeve ordered for the shock mount as well?
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(14-01-2016, 09:21 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Yep, can you get a sleeve ordered for the shock mount as well?
yeh ill sort something out. We can use those TA rear shocks just to get it on the road and save a bit of time.
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So work is underway to get the house ready to rent which means I have to be out of the garage and off the driveway by the end of March. The day started with helping dad removing some furniture and I also noticed the neighbours were out so ran it up to temp to check for the knocking myself.
It was all good up until 90 and then it started to knock. Im not going to worry about this for now as I can get it off the driveway and get an MOT with a crap engine but will definitely need to do something before it goes anywhere near the track or any real distance. I texted tom and he said he was on his way over anyway. Later in the afternoon I came back and we got cracking... and when I say we I mean Tom doing the work and me not really achieving much apart from shearing any bolt i could get my hands on... First off Tom replaced some of the brake lines but we found that this hole in the compensator isnt the standard m10 fitting... hopefully tom can find one at halfords tomorrow.
Next up I fitted a gti6 ARB to the refurbished beam. The beam i sent to stef was off the estate and had a smaller one. This is one i picked up from grant probably at least a year ago now but its finally fitted. New seals on and I did grease it up after taking the photo.
Tom then whipped out a surprise belated christmas present! I can probably fit these myself!
The load compensator is super confusing but it seems to fit. We have no idea how it is meant to sit or how much pressure is meant to be on it. We salvaged two calliper brake lines from another beam which saved us making those up. Also note the red braided lines which Ive probably had for 2 or 3 years now but never made it onto any of my previous cars.
We got the beam up to the car and bolted it on. Solid beam mounts were added some time back so it will be interesting to see how the car handles with those. It was getting dark as we dropped the car down and I decided I wanted to ditch the yellow cyclones and put on my shadow chrome ones. Dark photos but I think it looks a lot better!
As per usual big thanks to tom! It feels a lot better to have the car down on the ground. Just need to sort the last brake lines and work out how the compensator should be setup, fit some decent callipers, bleed the system, replace the exhaust and we should be able to go for a quick test drive.
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(13-01-2016, 08:09 PM)Toms306 Wrote:
Stef how could you do that? He paid good money for that beam and you grafitti'd it!
Team Eaton
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Video of the knocking hopefully...
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that doesnt sound good man. im not really up with the gti engine though to comment on what it is. sounds like a stuck lifter no idea what the setup is in the head though
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Miss the yellow wheels already
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(18-01-2016, 09:22 AM)Piggy Wrote: Miss the yellow wheels already
said nobody ever...
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Any daylight pictures yet?
TEAM CONROD SHITTING RALLYE!
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thats a tap not a knock, whether its a tappet or a valve is hard to say but it is quite a hard tap, has it had a proper rev around the block up to teml or just on idle?
pop a cam cover off and have a prod at the tappets with a plastic or wooden implement
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18-01-2016, 11:45 AM
(This post was last modified: 18-01-2016, 11:45 AM by Toms306.)
Surely a hard tap is a knock?
It hasn't moved from the driveway yet due to no MOT or tax. The 'noise' only starts at 90+ on the temp gauge though, if it was a valve would be constant. Would also think a tappet would be constant?
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18-01-2016, 12:40 PM
(This post was last modified: 18-01-2016, 12:45 PM by welshpug.)
no, a knock would be a big end.
as oil gets hotter it gets thinner, so it will highlight a weak tappet.
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Have to agree with welsh pug here. I've heard big end knocks and that isn't one. They're a lot deeper sounding.
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You're right, it does sound top-endy...knew I'd heard it somewhere before lol...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7x1Ml6B7RQ
Anyone know about the larger male brake union for the load compensator? I didn't even realise they came in different sizes! No bigger ones in Halfords either...
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ive done some googling of gti6 tapping when hot and there seem to be a few cases where a loose spark plug has lead to the same issue. There was even a video that sounded exactly the same. Definitely something to check next time we are at the car.
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Yeah Peugeot have different sized brake unions. I'm sure we have a few at work.
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From memory I think the larger one is M12 x 1 thread, but don't go ordering anything based solely on that!
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Sounds like a normal gti6. It'll be fine take it on track.
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Hmm, I should've probably measured it when we were there lol!
If you do have one or two spare Bash that'd be good, I can collect them when I collect the shock? You can leave Sam the bill as he deals with the financial side of things.
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(18-01-2016, 10:25 AM)Eeyore Wrote: (18-01-2016, 09:22 AM)Piggy Wrote: Miss the yellow wheels already
said nobody ever...
No sarcasm here.
Genuinely YAWN to the new colour.
The yellow was awesome and fitted with the raylle decal colours
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Lol, I actually like the yellow ones as well, but only for track, would feel a right twat in Tesco car park with them...
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21-01-2016, 11:50 AM
(This post was last modified: 21-01-2016, 12:20 PM by Toms306.)
So, many thanks to Bash who relieved the shock and supplied a couple of larger brake unions for us! He also put some considerable effort into sorting a snapped bleed nipple, sadly that wasn't as successful but still appreciated.
Firstly, should there be some sort of plug blocking these holes?
And can you still buy the handbrake '3 sided' clips that go here or is there another way of holding the cable in there?
So I got straight on and finished the brake lines yesterday, have I mentioned how much I hate making brake lines? Anyway, it isn't too spaghetti like lol. Also fitted the new handbrake cables.
And you can see the larger union there, serves absolutely no purpose at all as the pipe is obviously the same diameter, so just Peugeot being awkward I guess. The nut part is 13mm, I didn't check the thread size though.
So, onto bleeding...that went well...
In my defence, the light was fading and I tried to do it quickly before checking everything was tight... After making sure that nipple was fully closed and the union was fully tightened there weren't any leaks lol. So looks like the system is holding pressure which is good lol.
Unfortunately while the OS bled through quickly the NS was a complete pain. Just couldn't get any fluid from the nipple... So loosened the brake line and fluid came from there fine, fully removed the nipple and nothing at all (not sure if it shows in the pic).
That's the one Bash sorted for us so I'm not sure if there was still a bit of old nipple stuck in there or if there's an internal caliper fault that can cause that. I managed to find another caliper in the garage with a loose nipple BUT appeared to be blocked. Swapped that one on quickly (it's now very dark and freezing cold lol) and... No fluid from the nipple, sigh. However, as I loosened it more, fluid came from under it, so we just need a new nipple there.
I did attempt to bleed it from under the nipple but that didn't really work on my own. We do have a firm pedal but only after 2 pumps so guessing there's still air left, first pump of pedal slowly travels to the floor. I also haven't bled the fronts yet but not sure if they NEED doing after only changing rears? I know it's good practice to do all 4 but rather than risk snapping front nipples if we can leave that for now then that'd be good?
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21-01-2016, 12:12 PM
(This post was last modified: 21-01-2016, 12:17 PM by powerandtorque.)
(21-01-2016, 11:50 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Firstly, should there be some sort of plug blocking these holes?
Yes - it's a black plastic plug with a T40 torx drive. Part number 517914 from Peugeot (with a silly MOQ I seem to recall)
You're unlikely to snap the front nipples - the problem with the rears is that it's a steel nipple in an alloy casting, so suffers dissimilar metal corrosion. If you let the rears drain dry when you changed them then you will likely need to bleed the fronts through as you've potentially got air in the system now - not only that, but it's good practice anyway.
Removing snapped bleed nipples is a pain, because you have to remove all the old nipple and not damage the seat that the nipple screws down and seals against, which is all too easy when you drill out the remains of the old nipple.
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