The Racetractor. The End.

[1616six]

Unsprung are fine once you get used to it.. barely juddered. By the time I'd driven home from dropping Dum off at the train station in the cabby I was used to the unsprung in that. Would recommend one.

[welshpug]

judder is due to the pads biting harder and winding the springs up where they bottom out and the pads slip, unlike the full friction disc with a lower bite they will take more slipping.

[Piggy]

Its getting better and Im getting more used to it.

I kinda forgot I had put the total gearoil in...makes a hell of a difference. That and I found a lose gearbox mount...

So gear changes are even better....clutchless changes for the on boost win!!!!

No MBC control as it stands...Im happy with that for now as it means the vanes open asap.

Me n Runa are guna meet up Friday eve for some setup. Maybe able to get the arduino at least wired in by then too to do base values etc at the weekend.

[Piggy]

Annoyingly the vibration at speed is STILL there

Not sure what else to try/replace

[Dum-Dum]

Driveshafts? Hubs? Ball joint pinch bolts?

[Piggy]

Checked/replaced.

Got more engine vibration since doing all this work too

[bashbarnard]

Dont you have spacers? Ditch them stick a spare set of wheels on and try. Obviously without spacers

[Piggy]

Swapped the spacers around and no difference.

Im not entirely sure I still have same vibration....for some reason since this work the engine vibrations through the car have tripled if not more. Nothing below 1200rpm...then suddenly loads!

[bashbarnard]

All mounts ok for engine? One of the fixs for incorrect alignment on engines is lossen mounts start engine. (this settles it where it wants to sit) then nip up.

[Piggy]

Ok...random...lost speedo, rpm and fuel gauges. Still got temp tho!!?? Any thoughts?!

[bashbarnard]

Sounds like a wiring issue. Could just be a big block connector behind speedo. Start simple and check fuses though

[Dum-Dum]

Gotta agree, fuses or one of the plugs behind the clocks.

[Piggy]

Hmmm. Seems oddly coincidental with my wiring around the gearbox...which would explain the rpm/speedo...but not the fuel! Lol

Hope to have a look later...gota go fix a MGB...yay

---

Fuses all fine

[Piggy]

So, pulled a fuse for the dash, put it back in, the clocks danced their usual dance and seemed to have reset themselves...so all working again. V odd.

Then this happened:

[attachment=18273]

Spent some time fitted the needed sensors for the Arduino

Throttle postion sensor fitted...took some time finding the right internal threaded little adapter and had to remove the mani to move the LDA piping, bunged the old hole too

[attachment=18277]


Took chance to regrind the LDA as it wasnt the best shape/flow to it!

[attachment=18274]

Also fitted the RPM sensor

[attachment=18275]


And the N75 and plumbed it in.


[attachment=18276]

That gives me all the loacations now for making the loom. Although the MAP sensor isnt fitted as such, it will take about 5min to do, and I know exactly where it will be!

Next job is final soldering of the Arduino board/box and wire in a 12v ign and earth from the car to supply the arduino! Oh and replaced the MAP internals with the 4bar ones

---

Just need to find a tiny little filter/breather for the N75 too...must remember that

[Piggy]

Not sure if good or bad news...or both.

I have had a little oil leak fron quite early on. Very minimal from back of engine. Couldnt pin point it at all. Till I got the cambelt covers off for the GT101 sensor fitting and found the cam seal is weeping. Bit annoyed as it was new when I did the rebuild. But happy that its not head or worse. Head maybe coming off at somepoint this winter anyway for better headbolts and more headwork...so will sort that then.

Still annoyed.

[Dave]

Lol, typical XUD, oil leaks everywhere, replace all the seals, still leaks everywhere.

[Piggy]

Aye. Just the one though if dont need a head off then I'll try and do it in place

[Jimbo]

Yeah, just do it in situ
Time it up and whip inlet/ cam cover and cam off

[Piggy]

Im thinking of doing it without taking the cam out even

---

Clutch is almost useless in traffic....just awful unless I do a 2k rpm launch.

Vibration is bugging me too. Smooth as double cream under 1200rpm, rough as a bag of broken bolts above it.


However out of town...holy hell its quick, even with it detuned and at 1.1bar, it flies. Overtakes were easy before, now they are simply part of the journey, no matter where I go!

[Kezzieboy]

Clutch doesn't seem to be in line with your GT theme :S

[Piggy]

No.

But no other non paddle clutch would guarantee decent torque holding.

Rock - me - hardplace

[jammapic]

Just man up and live with it dude.

Only other option is what I had made for my HDi, a twin plate jobbie.

[Piggy]

Yeah Im trying. Its not the pedal weight...just the juddering

[jammapic]

Yep, they all do it mate! As most people have said, it's a necessary evil - and as long as you give it a few revs it's not so bad!! In a few months, you won't even notice it.

JP

[bashbarnard]

Just man up and live with it dude.

Only other option is what I had made for my HDi, a twin plate jobbie.

Twin plate jobbie? Howd you do that??

[jammapic]

AP Racing made up the bits, and CG built it up for me

[Hdi-power]

I suspect your clutch cable is improperly adjusted, try pushing the pedal right to the floor and then slipping your foot off it and letting it spring back up (bit awkward to do) try it ten times and I bet your clutch will be very driveable

[Piggy]

I suspect your clutch cable is improperly adjusted, try pushing the pedal right to the floor and then slipping your foot off it and letting it spring back up (bit awkward to do) try it ten times and I bet your clutch will be very driveable

Erm, no, thats not the problem. Its a paddle clutch!

[welshpug]

dmf would fix it

lol

[HDi--Power]

I suspect your clutch cable is improperly adjusted, try pushing the pedal right to the floor and then slipping your foot off it and letting it spring back up (bit awkward to do) try it ten times and I bet your clutch will be very driveable

Erm, no, thats not the problem. Its a paddle clutch!

I also have a paddle clutch, and have had a few CG paddle clutches, cable adjustment was always the cause of excess judder, particularly when trying to reverse, mine is very very driveable now, humour me and try it