The Racetractor. The End.

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The Racetractor. The End.
Having no life whatsoever - that's how!

I don't know that much, I just tend to absorb information quite easily.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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He is like a really nerdy Spongebob. Absorbs a lot.
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Cheers Jeff!
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Thanks Jeff.... Now bugger off
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Leak now, bitch.

[attachment=19115]
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I can almost imagine your car screaming "challange accepted"
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(18-09-2014, 02:08 PM)306Dan Wrote: I can almost imagine your car screaming "challange accepted"

:ROFL:
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Guess what.......

Still squeels Angry
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Use t clamps , jubaliee clips don't apply pressure evenly so they clamp in a more oval shape than t clamps

Otika clips apply pressure pretty much perfectly around the pipe but can only be used once

Its part of the reason you can't use jubaliee clips on gas hose and that they damage the hose more than they clamp it
Cherry red 205 XUD VNT - Project thread here http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=25522
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Too much hype about T clamps. Jubilees will tighten much more than a T clamp all day long...and are even so long as you select the right size for the right hose.
Its not leaking at those points. I think alloy inlet may have cracked
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How do you tighten jubliees more than Mikalors? I stripped loads of damn jubillees on the Golf SMIC pipes. Bought 3 Mikalors (only needed 2 but they're an arse to get the right size lol) and never had any more issues!
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Obviously cheep jubilees mate.

Genuine Jubilee or ASH stainless steel....they will cut through a hose before busting. Ive stripped loads of cheapo ones mind.
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Seriously...

Mikalor T Bars are grade A wank - they're even worse IMHO for not applying even pressure - you've got a massive gap where there's no clamp! Genuine Jubilee or Hi-Torq Jubilee clips will literally cut the silicon or crush the pipe before they screw up.

I've never shagged a decent quality Jubilee - 35+lbs of boost on varying turbos and I've not had a problem with them... Had countless problems with Mikalors.

Not to mention getting them on the twatting pipes will have me swearing in seconds.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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Ah fair enough, they were only cheap jubilee's tbf!

I still wouldn't say Mikalors are bad though, as said they cured my problem. Not saying a decent jubilee wouldn't have done just as well though!
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And pissed you off significantly less and if you actually put proper boost through it, leaked through the gap between where the threaded bar goes through..
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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Didn't leak for me, also didn't piss me off, no worse than fitting a jubilee when you get the right size. Tongue But there was a huge bead on the IC tbf. The jubilees just kept letting the pipe pop off and trying to tighten them just resulted in stripping them lol. No idea what the boost was, don't like boost gauges, make the cabin look untidy. lol But after fitting the mikalor I went on the dyno, turbo overboosted and dropped into limp mode...so maybe a gauge would've been useful in hindsight. Itwasntme
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Just what I was taught, still think O clips (otika) are the best but that's cause you can control how the pressure is spread when you pinch them down but no one uses them cause can only be used once

Interesting to find out jubaliees are better than T clamps tho
Cherry red 205 XUD VNT - Project thread here http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=25522
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never had issues with tbolt clamps myself, always used them, nice bead, tbolt clamps, done.
[Image: Untitled-1_zpsc57da38e.jpg]
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get some chemical metal on the mani
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Haha...I will be dropping the engine down and across a few MM this weekend, whipping the manifold off and replacing with my spare one and replacing the plastic one with a metal one too. Also going to blank off the EMP just in case its that also.
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Note: I have not fitted a supercharger lol
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Shame Wink
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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Spray clutch cleaner near where you think a leak is it will rev up when you spray it into the leak, might not work on a really tiny leak

Has done me well in the past

Obviously have the engine running when you do this
Cherry red 205 XUD VNT - Project thread here http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=25522
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Carb cleaner for me...
Aint going to work with this leak. Only on boost
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Yeah wd40, deodorant and lighter fluid work to anything that burns

Could try an air compressor to pressurise the system then you'd be able to look around the engine bay for the noise
Cherry red 205 XUD VNT - Project thread here http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=25522
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Yeah...I got it covered mate.

And no, i wont be using wd40 or lighter fluid TMI
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prob not an excellent idea spraying flammable liquids around a hot engine
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(19-09-2014, 07:43 PM)zx_volcane Wrote: prob not an excellent idea spraying flammable liquids around a hot engine

Yeah, exactly....'oooo whats that flame thingy coming from my 500degree mani pipe?!'

Tiz why I use carb cleaner in short sprays
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Lol and the joys of variable geometry turbos... No chance it'll be under vacuum anything off idle.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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