Stanced XUD Estate (IT'S ALIVEEEEahahaha)

[cwspellowe]

Boot needs painting though so thinking of stickering a spare up for the lolz. Only about £15 for the vinyl too.

[4WayDiablo]

That's not bad. Would look lovely with a respray but for cheap and easyness I see why you want to go vinyl but maybe something else?

[cwspellowe]

I can spray the boot lid no bother, just can't be arsed! Need to decide what to do with the seams under each rear light too, one side's dented, so I can push it out and fill it and blend the paint into the rear quarter, but that means it'd be totally smooth and i'd have to do the other side too. Twice as much chance of f*cking something up...

[cwspellowe]

Right, forget that idea, was just being daft.

THIS is an idea though...

[Tom]

That is f*cking cool! Love this project dude

[Atterz]

Always liked the idea of blacked out intercooler + pipes. I say go for it!

[4WayDiablo]

Always liked the idea of blacked out intercooler + pipes. I say go for it!

mine does that anyway, the amount of oil it spews across everywhere haha
but yes, it should look damn good!

[cwspellowe]

Not much of an update over the weekend, wee man's birthday today so most of my time taken up by that. I did find time to snap my new playthings though, and get farty with Photoshop again. Enjoy.

[Jacko]

I'm in love.. This car looks stunning

[4WayDiablo]

awesome mate! properly good work

[Seid']

Wheels specs are 8+9 right?

Because Sent by Tapatalk is too mainstream!

[cwspellowe]

Yep seid, 8+9 et5 front -5 rear

[cwspellowe]

Cheers for the comments again fellas, slowly coming together now.

More of an update too, got the D2's on but hard to judge how it's going to sit with the engine in, bear in mind the front end's approx 250kg light at the minute, so I wound the struts as low as they'd go and the camber as negative as it would go :laugh:







Where's the bumper though? Well that's over the other side of the garden getting a Megane Coupé splitter stuck to it. Wanna see?







Still need to trim the edges but it's a pretty decent fit. Finally, here's more pretty pictures. Just because.







That is all for today.

[ginge191]

FIT!

Im unsure what's special with those top mounts?? :|

[4WayDiablo]

nice work fella! camber looks epic! what you doing with the old coilies?

[Niall]

This gets better and better.
Oh and I wouldn't have them top mounts on my car. They look to nice to hide. Need them on the coffee table!

[Matt]

nice work fella! camber looks epic! what you doing with the old coilies?

Selling them haha.

Cars looking good mate!

[kingy]

with niall on this, just gets better and better. what are you doing about your rub strip? is it going back on or going to smoooooth it?

[cwspellowe]

Old coilies have been sold in pieces, just need to box them up and post them tomorrow.

No idea what the poundage is on the D2's but they feel like 400lb+. Need to do some serious head scratching so if anyone can help (Philip?) please advise.

Under full droop there's 11" top to bottom. The springs fitted are only 6" long and approx 400lb+ so under full droop there's 5" of free play. Under full compression at the required height, with the damper bodies screwed as low as they will go, but with no engine in the car, the total length is 5".

I need a total length of 11". As they are, with the current springs, if I wind the collar up 5" so the spring is just under preload, the ride height will raise 5". Obviously with the engine fitted the springs will compress more, but would effectively have to compress a full 5" to get the height back to where I want it. Which with 400lb springs is nigh on impossible.

From what I see I have two options here. Fit a shorter, softer main spring and raise the lower collar a couple of inches, which i THINK will mean the damper will have feck all travel, or raise the lower collar slightly less and use a 4" helper spring with the same main springs. Total compressed length though I need to get down to 6" for the ride height I want.

Phil?

[Jacko]

Picture whore!!!.... I LOVE IT!!

[cwspellowe]

FIT!

Im unsure what's special with those top mounts?? :|

You can move the strut top to give up to 3deg neg camber y0

[Chris]

What you on about with the shocks, doesn't make a lot of sence? You give the spring your desiered preload, then wind the whole shock into the body to lower it more. This give you the same amount of damper travel regardless of the ride hight you chose.

The standard spring is 6.5" on the set my mate has. If you give it say 10mm preload then wind the damper all the way into the body there shouldn't be any need for shorter springs unless you want to go stupid low, if you want to do that you'll have to fit a shorter spring, but you would have to run it with no preload, or maybe even lose on the shock.
The way round is to get a shorter damper as well.

[sam]

thought i was the only one with D2's

[cwspellowe]

The shocks are wound into the bodies as far as they'll go. With the spring perch applying a slight amount of preload to the spring, the perch still sits about 5" higher on the thread than the locking collar on the body. That's the absolute lowest it will go without shorter springs, agreed? When the bodies are wound completely down and the spring is under minimal preload?

The pictures above, i've dropped the perch all the way down the threads to compensate for the lack of weight in the engine bay (250-300kg missing) to get the stance I want. If I wind the perch up to where it should be at the "lowest" setting mentioned in the last paragraph, the ride height raises by the same amount. Once the weight of the engine is in there, I guarantee the ride height will not drop by that 5" or so again. A 6.5" main spring at 400lb will NOT compress to 1.5", no chance. So the ride height at the coilies' "lowest" setting with a fully assembled car will be an inch or two higher than what you see in those pictures.

What i'm saying is the lowest setting on these springs won't actually be as low as it is now, not that I can make out anyway.

So do I drop the spring perch a few inches to lower the "lowest" setting and fire in, say, a 3" helper spring to stop the main spring unseating?

[cwspellowe]

In fact having seen Sam's on his project thread, these are different. There's more threaded section exposed than on his, and mine are wound fully down. Also my camber plates have double the adjustability over his.

WTF are these for then? They came off a 306..?

[sam]

because i opted for the stiffer shocks and springs and only wanted 60mil lowering so they sent me track spec ones instead of ones that go lower

[cwspellowe]

Right Sam, but yours would go lower than mine. The body length of your is about 2" shorter than mine.

[Chris]

Fair enough then.
I'd go for a helper with a compresed hight of 1-1.5" (a pair of raceland ones if they're the same I/D) and say a main length of 5-5.5" with the same poundage or some longer ones that are softer. Just make sure the overall lenght un compressed will allow you to drop the perch as low as possiable.

[cwspellowe]

I'm estimating the weight of the engine will compress the current main springs about another 2". It drops about 0.5-1" with me sitting on the wing, so three or more of me will compress it roughly 3x that, so say 2" for approximation's sake.

So for the same height as now, I need to raise the perch by 2".

On to free length under droop, that's 11" as they are. Raise the perch by 2" and that makes 9" free length, with 6.5" of that made up by the main spring, so 2.5" of free play still.

A 3" helper like these with locating collar (about 0.25" thickness) will eliminate the gap under droop but will add about 1" to the ride height when coil bound if the perch isn't adjusted lower.

Drop the perch by another 0.5" to make the maximum use of the 3" helper and a teeny bit of preload to make the total length 9.5" (3" helper, little bit for the locating collar, 6.5" main spring)

For that to work, the compressed length of the 6.5" main and 3" helper will need to drop from 9.5" free length to 6.5" compressed length which is how it's sat now. The helper will compress 2" by itself, so the main spring only needs to compress by 1" to get the right ride height. Even at 400lb that should be possible, right?

[Chris]

Not a clue with the numbers, but sounds like it'll work.
Only thing is I'd go for a longer helper, so you can lower the pearch more if needed, if not you'll just leave some preload in the helper.