SRowells Black Rallye

[Eeyore]

So I now have the 1.8 coil pack in my possession. Just realised I haven't ordered any 8mm fuel line so will crack on tomorrow and then tomorrow itll probably be a trip to halfords or ecp to buy something crap just to get it running soni can order some proper stuff online.

[Danny Wideboy]

Awesome.
Post bwarp video when it's done.

[Eeyore]

So this was the last time the bay will look like this for some considerable time if not forever. Tom came over and it was time to get the bodies on...

First job was to unplug all the sensors, remove a few mounting plates, remove the manifold, remove the coil pack cover and coil packs, remove the loom and ecu. Also removed hte air box system which took at least several hours due to everything being made of rust and lack of bits for several tools. Ended up having to use a disc on the dremel to get all the nuts off.



gti6 runs 4 separate sparks where as the xsi and 1.8 run wasted spark. the 16v coil pack from lesser petrols will fit the mounting holes in the gti6 cam covers but fowls on the lugs in the cam carriers. Initially I tried grinding down the lugs so that i could always go back to having separate coil packs however this was still fowling and the metal parts of the pack were touching the metal parts of the carriers. Unfortunately I had to cut 5 of them off but ive got spare carriers so those can always be fitted in the future. The plastic cover also doesnt line up with the oil filler so that has to be cut around. So the answer is a lesser petrol coil pack does fit, can be used but does require cutting along with the carriers. A hack saw and a dremmel to clean up is the best way to do it. Not sure if im happy but if it works it works. Doubt ill be able to fit my carbon coil pack cover now




Next up PAS removed from the top bracket and my brand new rallye pulleys removed! theyre only 4 weeks old :/ Lugs are all good on the sump. Spacers fitted to the sump lugs, long bolts and PAS relocation kit fitted along with the PAS pump. Low pressure inlet for the pump is rotated 180 degrees to point up towards the reservoir. Autotensioner fitted to take up the slack in the aux belt. Bolt holes are there but not used on the rallye so required a bit of cleaning up so as to not shear the bolts.




Fans off. And the two rubber dampeners removed from the cowling and fitted under the nissens rad. Slimline fan fitted as the second one seems to be catching on the cowling.



Decided that whilst the front was off this would be a good time to fit the mocal 13 row cooler. Instructions say it can be mounted anyway but has to be up against the rad. Ive spoken to several people with track cars who have gaps between the two. Im looking to mount the cooler above the PAS pipes with about 2 inches between the cooler and rad. This is because I want to run two slim line fans and there simply isnt room. Tried a few ways of mounting as the pipes are pretty long and its difficult to get neat. Lots of room to play with with the stock fans removed.








and this is how things were left for the day. Cancelled a few things tomorrow so have another day at doing this.



I forgot to buy a whole load of things which I need however we seem to have found a new inlet manifold gasket and PAS relocation pipe along with the crush fittings. Just short of 8mm fuel line! Tomorrow i need to cut the PAS pipe before the pressure sensor and add the relocation pipe on both the low and high pressure sides. Also need to get the aux belt on and then PAS should be done. Mount the cooler and cable tie the pipes neatly. Then we are on to adding in the loom, bodies, wideband and gauges. Hoping to get it all done!

Working on the front theres a whole load of rust. Its very disheartening to see and the whole engine will have to come out at some point in order to treat it all and respray however nows not the time as I havent got the time or space to do it. I hope that itll last out for the rest of the year. If the engine blows or it needs to come out this will be when I get it all done. Ill make a start with arches and things in the mean time.

so yeh wish me and tom luck tomorrow!

[Stef205]

Glad you got the coil pack sorted sorry I was abit vague when you messaged me I was at work

[Eeyore]

Glad you got the coil pack sorted sorry I was abit vague when you messaged me I was at work

no worries. i asked a few people i knew who had omexs. I did some searching but it was all a bit vauge. hopefully my pictures will help people in the future. It fits and im sure it will work but its not perfect. Should be reliable though and its nice to be able to just dump in another peugeot part. Its annoying having to cut so much off but as i say ive got spare carriers.

[zx_volcane]

I'd bin off that metal strip stuff that comes with the mocal, its next to useless for mounting and rusts up pretty quick too.

I've used a bit of angled steel, much better + stiffer

Didn't know they recommended being right up against the radiator, ive got a gap between mine where I've mounted blow through fans. But thinking of changing to suck through on the rear of the rad instead.

[Piggy]

Yeah I wana get my coolers closer... Look at oem setups and everything is squashed and sealed together, prevents all the air stalling.

[mackat]

Enjoyable read!

What injectors are you going to use?
Just out of interest what wideband and gauges are you installing?

[Eeyore]

Enjoyable read!

What injectors are you going to use?
Just out of interest what wideband and gauges are you installing?

thanks. Its a PLX multi gauge which is touch screen so you can go between whatever sensors you install. It connects to a box and you can piggy back multiple boxes together and then scroll through them on the gauge. You can display the value, graph, or min/current/max. Its quite clever. Think it was about £120 including the wideband sensor. 

Just using standard gti6 injectors.

[cully]

pictures!!??
I know you want to put pictures up of the jenveys

[Eeyore]

Day two of lets get the bodies fitted before FCS otherwise we will lose to steves rover on track for a second year running...

First up was drilling some 8.5mm holes in the front crossmember. Bolts were provided with the mocal kit as were the mounting plates which i cut down with a dremel and then sanded off the sharp edges. Sanded down the holes and quick spray of black so there is no bare metal to rust.



Both slim line fans fitted and oil cooler all bolted up. The drivers side fan was catching slightly so i had to dremel a bit to try and get the motor to sit deeper in the shroud. that didnt work and a bit of bending made it catch less however it does still catch but hopefully itll just wear and stop eventually. There is a 2 inch gap between cooler and rad but theres no way of having two fans and mounting the two touching.



Broke out the cable ties and secured all the oil cooler pipes. Its fairly tidy now. Tom arrived and got cracking under the car and removed the lamda and fitted the wideband. I took the wiring up and cable tied it to the brake pipes and across the engine bay. Plan is to run it through the grommet around the brake cylinder through to behind the speedo.



Next up was fitting the PAS relocation pipes. the standard high pressure pipe gets cut up in two places and a length of pipe with crush fittings is added between the two. Its actually too long so one of the pipe mounts was removed on the front of the box and the one underneath the front of the box was rotated 180 degrees to make it a perfect fit! Getting a bit tight for changing the filter but will see how difficult that is when the time comes!



Added the PAS fluid inlet to the pump. Standard pipe is cut and a 90 degree bend and down pipe is added. First cut was too high and fluid wasnt running down so chopped off another 2 inches so it falls down to the pump under gravity. We tried to fit a belt to the aux but it was far too short. turned out it was the rallye belt so found the other belt i had kept from the 1.8 which at 1145 was the correct size for this setup.



Next up was throwing the loom on. It was never never good on the 1.8 but the majority of it wasnt too bad and I fitted it in a super tidy way but it will all come out to make a neater one in the future. Below is a pic of the speedo sensor which normally has a 4mm gap where you can push the clip down. because this is down the back of the gearbox and is difficult to remove i took the dremmel to it so you can push the clip down with fingers and not with a screwdriver.



Tom started taking the front end apart and moving everything over to the 1.8 slam panel. The rad clips were broken on the rallye slam panel along with a few of the mounting bolts being sheared.



Fitting the loom where there was a plug which didnt fit which was the gearbox reverse sensor. So on the 1.8 i had to swap the sensor and now ive had to swap it again. Luckily some hero decided to use crimps just in case the loom was used on another box in the future. Cheers past sam!



Next up was sealing up the longmans inlet manifold. On the 1.8 there is no vacuum pump on the head so i had fitted a take off from a single branch of the manifold. Because this is now on a rallye with a vacuum pump ths needed to be sealed up. A shallow headed m8 bolt, nut and some sealant did the trick. Might be able to sort something out with liquid metal in the future but this should be substantial.



All ready for adding the bodies....



Bodies bolted back together with the missing washers and spacers added. Everything done up tight and locktite used so super peace of mind there.



Fitting it was a pain so removed the trumpets and filter back plate. Did the bolts up with a super tool which i was happy with. Filter back plate and 90mm trumpets back on. I forgot to buy new 8mm fuel line so we used the old lines and a few bits i had lying around to do everything up. Need to fit a catch tank as well but just fitted a pipe to take any oil down the back of the engine just to test run it on the drive.



Added the omex and plugged in the last few bits of loom. Boom! Thats how you fit bodies and an after market ecu in two days (18 hours). Big thanks to Tom for coming over and sharing the work. Its been long and tedious battling lots of rusted nuts and bolts but hopefully itll be worth it in the end.

[Niall]

So the question is, does it actually run?

[cully]

all of the BWARPS!!

[Eeyore]

and the answer of does it actually run....

er.... no....

So... ecu turns on with ignition. engine cranks, injectors inject, but sparks dont spark. Not sure whats going on here. We tested the red live to the pack and it was getting 12v but nothing from the purple and yellow on the omex with ignition or cranking. Also took the pack out and put the sparks and earthed to the head but no spark. Not sure whats going on there. We checked all the wiring and it all seems fine. the power relay which controls injectors and coils is working.

Tried a few other maps but no luck there.

Next thoughts were that the crank sensor may not be working. Checked its properly plugged in and it was, on the ECU its turning synced on when cranking. timing error is displaying more than 1 and went from 4 to 6 to 8 however seeing as its synced i believe this to be fine.

Which really leaves me with no other thoughts than to try a different coil pack which Ill have to order. When removing it we did wonder if it was actually deep enough to reach the sparks but it wouldnt be able to bolt on otherwise and It would require even more of the head to be cut. Some research to do here as well....

[cully]

all of the BWARPS!!

so NONE OF THE BWARPS 

[Niall]

May be a silly question but the coil pack was bolted down to a clean surface right? You have 3 wires. a constant 12v, neg switch for coil 1 and neg switch for coil 2 but the coil pack needs to be earthed. If you look at the bolt holes, youll see under a few of them there is a metal track
Also your crank error is too high. You will generally get 1, maybe 2 whilst the ecu tries to work out what position the engine is in but after that you shouldnt get anything. If its still counting then its missing a signal.
Generally if the injectors are firing then its not a signal issue. Its a issue with the supply to the coils or the coils them selves.

You can also earth the coil pack from the spare pin on the plug.

Edit: and it is deep enough to fit the plugs. Me and Stef have both run the same pack on ours for thousands of miles trouble free.

Edit again: try and get a video of the omex software dash when cranking and put it on here. Theres a lot of info there which is useful to diagnose the issue.

[Eeyore]

ive attached a log of ten seconds of cranking if anyone has DATA2000 and wants to take a look and let me know where ive gone wrong!

[Niall]

Ill have a look when im on my work laptop tomorrow. The log isnt much use though. Just get a video of the dash

Once you've tried bolting down the coil pack that is

[Eeyore]

Ill have a look when im on my work laptop tomorrow. The log isnt much use though. Just get a video of the dash

Once you've tried bolting down the coil pack that is

yeh its all bolted down to the standard 6 cam covers. Ill try cleaning them up next weekend but id be surprised if thats the issue.

[Niall]

Are you using a standard Omex loom with the relay to power injectors, lambda and coils yeah?

Also id try banging the 1.8 map back on and try starting it. It will run but like a bag of shit. Reason being the new map may be set up for a different pattern fly wheel in which case its never ever going to start!

[Eeyore]

Are you using a standard Omex loom with the relay to power injectors, lambda and coils yeah?

Also id try banging the 1.8 map back on and try starting it. It will run but like a bag of shit. Reason being the new map may be set up for a different pattern fly wheel in which case its never ever going to start!

yeh so ive tried both the rallye and 1.8 map. The log is with the 1.8 map. Its the standard omex loom with the power relay to power the injectors and coil but theres no lambda installed. Exactly the same as the 1.8. I dont know whats different.

[Toms306]

May be a silly question but the coil pack was bolted down to a clean surface right? You have 3 wires. a constant 12v, neg switch for coil 1 and neg switch for coil 2 but the coil pack needs to be earthed. If you look at the bolt holes, youll see under a few of them there is a metal track

Ah that's interesting... So testing for a spark with the coilpack out and the spark plug touching the block wouldn't work anyway?

[Niall]

May be a silly question but the coil pack was bolted down to a clean surface right? You have 3 wires. a constant 12v, neg switch for coil 1 and neg switch for coil 2 but the coil pack needs to be earthed. If you look at the bolt holes, youll see under a few of them there is a metal track

Ah that's interesting...  So testing for a spark with the coilpack out and the spark plug touching the block wouldn't work anyway?

Not unless you're using that 4th pin to earth on the plug which i believe the 1.8/xsi loom does as standard albeit with a noise isolator inline.

[Orta]

Of no technical help I know but I have to say the bodies look epic!

[Eeyore]

Of no technical help I know but I have to say the bodies look epic!

thanks. First and only positive really! it was very sad to see rust all over the front end. Dont know how much longer it can be left without it being beyond the point of no return. Who knows... maybe ill end up in a place of my own with a nice garage within the next two years? or maybe ill be doing it all on my parents gravel drive... or... maybe ill get someone to do it... Such a paint knowing its all got to come out. But its been great progress! Finally got some direction with it!

[Magenta Sunset]

what's that rusty metal pipe below the rads?

[Eeyore]

what's that rusty metal pipe below the rads?

PAS cooling. Basically the PAS return line has an extra few meters which go along the front box section. Its a bit strange and seems pointless. Not sure what difference it would make if it was removed. fairly sure all 306s have it!

---

the coilpack has red 12v positive which tested as working. then it has yellow and purple with are omex grounding for each coil. these didnt read anything on the multimeter but they should have done when cranking... so i feel that the ecu isnt actually "requesting" any spark and combine that with the spurious timing values and the fact that this is a known working coil pack and it points to that the ecu doesnt know the crank position. So.... new job starting tomorrow but next weekend ill put another crank sensor in and see what happens.

[Toms306]

Only GTis/Rallyes have the PAS cooler! Its for all the extra steering you have to do in carparks with the stupid right hand lock!

[Eeyore]

Only GTis/Rallyes have the PAS cooler! Its for all the extra steering you have to do in carparks with the stupid right hand lock!

my bad. Yeh im not sure why it needs it really. The pump is the same apart from the pulley being smaller which means it pumps more... but arent all 306 racks the same turning and its just the 6 one has a stopper to stop hitting the end of the box?

[Toms306]

I think the '6 is just set up to take more abuse tbh, hence extra heat protection everywhere - thicker rad, battery cooling duct, PAS cooler & pressure sensor, heat shielding around exhaust etc.