20-11-2015, 04:00 PM
306 d-turbo - Tow bar, TT filter and leak offs.
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20-11-2015, 04:29 PM
I love snow! Shame we barely get any here.
On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
20-11-2015, 08:52 PM
It's not usually the lid on the filter housing, it's the base and the little white stat on the side that leak
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
20-11-2015, 10:41 PM
(20-11-2015, 08:52 PM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: It's not usually the lid on the filter housing, it's the base and the little white stat on the side that leak Aye. Haven't looked into it, or changed to an inline filter yet. Had the problem for 2 days, and now its gone. Starts like a dream every time, and its colder now Going to leave it as it is until it becomes a problem again.
05-01-2016, 04:19 PM
We've got about -12C now, which isnt so bad(We got winds at 17m/s, so it feels like -30C according to the weather people).
But the car just dies after a couple of seconds when its cold. If I rev it a bit, it runs. Had no issues starting until it went below -5. Bought a new fuel filter for it today. Haven't gotten around to change it. Skipping the inline plan for now. Maybe that will help the starting. Hope it isnt the new glow plugs, as I bought the most expensive bosch ones they had. When cold(and worm for that matter), it idles at just above 500rpm. Isn't the normal rpm supposed to be 7-800ish? Could it be that it needs more fuel? Didn't complete stage 1, cause it has been to cold. But turned up the fuel to see if I had to do anything to the turbo. And since boost didn't increase, I just turned it down, waiting for warmer weather to go in under it. Might have turned it down to much? Can't remember if it revved differently. Or maybe the pump needs a bit of advancing.
05-01-2016, 05:45 PM
Is the cold start cable connected at the back of the pump? Mine is off at the minute and idles at at 500rpm too.
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
(05-01-2016, 05:45 PM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: Is the cold start cable connected at the back of the pump? Mine is off at the minute and idles at at 500rpm too. Is that the thin little wire with a small metal plate and a little screw at the end? The one that is right about where the glow plug sits? It was pretty tight there when I changed the plugs. So might have done something to it without knowing. Will have a look tomorrow! Thanks This one?
05-01-2016, 09:57 PM
At what temp does diesel start gelling up?
06-01-2016, 09:19 AM
Pure diesel freezes around -10C I think. But the diesel we get in Norway(And everywhere else probably) has a paraffin addative, and we get a different mix during summer and winter. During summer we get a mix that has a freezing point at -20 to -25C, and durning winter they mix it out a bit more so it should not freeze until at least -30 to - 40C.
06-01-2016, 12:15 PM
Checked the cable on the picture today. It is connected. The metal piece is a bit wiggely. Not sure how its supposed to be or if it actually is the cold start cable
Also changed the fuel filter, and its alot better to drive now. Doesn't hesitate on low revs while driving. Can actually use 3rd when doing 30km/t now ^^ Not sure if it helped the cold starting. Fired on first try, but wasn't very happy. But that is probably because of air in the system after filter change. But it didn't instantly die, like yesterday. And the temp is about the same.
06-01-2016, 12:42 PM
Just turn the idle up then? lol
In case you don't know it's the two screws on the back of the pump, either side of the cold start rocker
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
(06-01-2016, 12:42 PM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: Just turn the idle up then? lol So no point in adjusting the cable there? Loosening the screw and move the cable a bit in? Will adjusting the idle screws do the exact same job? Is the metal thing the cable sits in supposed to be wiggly? Thanks a lot for your replies Matt. Really appreciate the help
06-01-2016, 02:29 PM
The cable is tight or should be when cold, it pulls the rocker onto the cold idle screw, when warm it relaxes into the hot idle screw, once the cable is tensioned correctly which can be adjusted with the locknut and grub type screw it runs through, you can set the cold and hot idles properly with the two screws, any questions ask away
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
Thanks given by: Iaitoo
07-01-2016, 09:29 AM
-17C today. The car does not want to start
At first it almost fired. Then you could only hear the starter trying. And not the starter barely wants to turn. Hoping its just a power issue. No idea how old the battery is. Car starts to lock and unlock itself when the car tries to start as well :S
07-01-2016, 09:35 AM
The battery can't handle the cold I'd say!
08-01-2016, 02:41 PM
Bought a new battery today. Fired on first try ^^ Bit lumpy though.
It idles only slightly higher when warm. Could the cold start cable be stuck? The left screw(Hot?) is winded much more out than the right one. Tried moving the spring, but it didnt want to budge. Engine off tho. No idea if it locks it? Didnt want to use much force. Bit smokey when it starts. This is after running for 3 mins. Made the drive way white when it first fired. Coldest day in 60 years today apparently
08-01-2016, 03:40 PM
It should move fine mate, it is a little stiff though, you will see the effect it has on the idle when you move it
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
19-01-2016, 04:32 PM
Changed the side indicators today for some clear ones. They might almost be a bit to clear Ordered a new rear beam the other day as well. A HDI one complete with discs and calipers. Will be a small upgrade for my d-turbo drum beam ^^ Ordering from England, even with custom charges, still makes it under half as cheap compared to buying in Norway!
19-01-2016, 04:55 PM
from IMAxles? When I spoke to them they mentioned they send a lot out your way, apparently your car breaker/salvage laws are different?
19-01-2016, 05:55 PM
From some company on ebay. Don't remember the name. Not sure if we have any breaker/salvage laws. But domestic shipping costs the same as the beam+shipping from England..
Refurbished one would cost me about 700 pounds. And I haven't seen anyone sell used ones. 306's of any model are pretty rare here. More 205's. So I am happy with getting a used one from England for about 200 pounds
30-01-2016, 08:00 AM
While waiting for the rear axle, I fixed up a little place in our basement storage room, where I can "work" on it. At least check out the calipers and figure out what I need to do to it to work on the car Also got a set of Thule roof bars for about 10£. They cost 200£ at the nearest dealer.
Now I am just waiting for it to stop snowing, so I can jack up the car and change the drop-links. The road where I park is really bumpy because of snow and ice. And there is so much cluncking from the front and the rear of the car
09-02-2016, 04:47 PM
Slightly rounded off a brake pipe nipple. Used some wisegrips in stead and it came right off. Do you think I'll be able to use grips to tighten it enough when it goes back on? Or do I have to replace it? Its on the pipe that comes from the caliper. The brake hoses were rotten, so have to change them.
09-02-2016, 07:08 PM
That's a union, not a nipple. The nipple is the part you open to bleed the fluid through.
You will be able to do it tight enough with molegrips, but if you're replacing other pipes might as well replace that while you're there.
09-02-2016, 07:27 PM
ah, it's a union you call it. Not replacing any pipes I hope. Just the hose thingy. It is pretty rotten. But thanks!
14-02-2016, 12:57 PM
Dirt. Dirt everywhere! Took one of the rear calipers off today. Was afraid that I would have to battle the rear disc screw as well. But it didn't have one. So it just fell off with the caliper I realized that my current rear beam does not have a compensator. I thought all beams without abs had em? I'll have to upgrade front brakes then, so the rear won't lock up?
16-02-2016, 08:50 PM
Out there you may benefit from fitting the starter off a HDi when it gets a little warmer again, they're geared differently and you get a faster cranking speed as a result. They're not difficult to replace at all, three bolts right on the front of the engine.
If you'd like, can probably source you one if you're coming over for FCS/Pugfest?
16-02-2016, 08:59 PM
(16-02-2016, 08:50 PM)Ruan Wrote: Out there you may benefit from fitting the starter off a HDi when it gets a little warmer again, they're geared differently and you get a faster cranking speed as a result. They're not difficult to replace at all, three bolts right on the front of the engine. I've got a spare banging about for him somewhere, I think my hdi has a new one on. Can have it for a beer. If that helps. Obviously if you're down for fcs or pugfest.
On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
16-02-2016, 10:31 PM
Are you commenting on the correct thread? Where is this starter business coming from? no plans on fcs or pugfest this year. Finnishing up my bachelor, so will be looking for work. Not vacations
23-02-2016, 12:41 PM
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