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306 d-turbo - Tow bar, TT filter and leak offs.
#1
Hello!

Picked up a lil XRDT pug this morning. Bought it unseen for about 500euros.

I bought it from an old lady that said she hadnt changed oil on it, because it hadnt used any. So I obviously have to give it a service asap Tongue

It makes a ssshb ssshb ssshb sound from the rear right wheel. It increases with speed. its not always there, and turning doesnt affect the sound. Could it be a drum brake issue?
If it was a wheel bearing, would it be very loud when turning and not be as even. The sssshb sound comes in even intervals, like something subs.

Rear wiper does not work. Engine makes a sound, but the wiper is not moving. Thats a good excuse for a delete.

No idea when the cambelt was changed last. Probably have to do that as well. Engine has been changed, so the chassie has gone about 300k, but the engine according to the previous owner has gone a bit over 100k-km. Engine looks very clean, and the previous owner has only had it for a year. So maybe the owner before her did a good job taking care of it. Will have to look for service papers Smile

Future plans:
"cold air" intake. Mostly for the sound, as it wont give me any unicorns.  (Can't do it because of new MOT rules)
Boost gauge (Done)
Stage 1
fmic (Can't do it, because of new MOT rules)
Finding new trim that fits under the headlights (Ordered)
Paint bumper in the same colour as the car
fix the broken driver side mirror
Painting some scratches on the body of the car to prevent rust.

Here is a couple of crappy phone pictures Smile

[Image: 20151015_173013_zps6lqs6gq9.jpg]

[Image: 20151015_172959_zpsvx0u68jh.jpg]
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#2
The sound from the back wheel will be it rubbing through the arch liner, all the rear beams needs replacing at this age and the wheel will be cambered in Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#3
(15-10-2015, 04:12 PM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: The sound from the back wheel will be it rubbing through the arch liner, all the rear beams needs replacing at this age and the wheel will be cambered in Smile

They cost more then what I paid for the car Tongue Can it be rebuilt easily DIY?


Edit: Changed to winter tyres. Havnent heard the sound so far. Winter tyres are a bit bigger than the summer ones. And there is no knocking or squicking sounds from the rear. Just a subbing noise. If the tyre was rubbing on the arch liner, wouldnt it be a constant sound? The sound is: Sub.........sub...........sub..........sub.
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#4
Bought oil, filter and glow plugs today. They didnt have an air filter in.

Looking forward to some servicing this weekend.
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#5
Look at the arch liner, you'll soon see if it's rubbing Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#6
(16-10-2015, 05:27 PM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: Look at the arch liner, you'll soon see if it's rubbing Smile

Looked at it, and it looks fine. Can also fit my fingers in between the tyre and the arch. The sound has been gone since I changed tyres as well. The bolts were so tight, that I almost thing they were hitting something inside the drum. But maybe not. Who knows Tongue
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#7
Looks like a good base for a nice project! Look at darren lobbs videos to see what you can do with the dturbo engine.
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#8
Cleaned the diesel filter today.

This area needed more cleaning than the filter Tongue
[Image: 20151018_101203_zpsprac66mi.jpg]

[Image: 20151018_103037_zpsmkalf62u.jpg]
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#9
Where's the fuel gauage?
On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
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#10
(18-10-2015, 09:24 AM)bashbarnard Wrote: Where's the fuel gauage?

There are two rooms under the seats, filter in this one. So the thingy thats measures fuel is probably in the next one.
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#11
Ok never seen that before. Interesting.
On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
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#12
it looks like your rear seats are deteriorating. either that, or it is road grime.....
Not always Grumpy!!
306 Cabby SE, 2.0l 16v 
To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be!

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#13
That's disgusting dirty. How does so much filth end up under the seats haha
[Image: 20A1806D-891D-40FB-BD52-AD519177A607-734...391753.jpg]
TEAM CONROD SHITTING RALLYE!
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#14
There was a couple of small rocks in there. So not just the seats. But not sure how it got in there :p
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#15
Finally got the new air filter today. No one had it in storage, so had to get one ordered.
And it really needed a change. Don't think the previous owner knew that the car has one of these and that it has to be changed from time to time.

[Image: 20151021_112238_zpszocd19wx.jpg]
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#16
That will make a big difference lol, totally ducked that is Big Grin
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#17
Car got a bit more responsive. Like it suddenly got more air Tongue
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#18
Get a decat on it next if it already hasn't matey
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#19
Gonna stage 1 it over the weekend. Running about 13 psi atm.

Any tips on how to get the metal lid of off the boost compensator screw? Dont want to force it. Had a bit of wd40 on it. Tried using a plastic spatchel to lift it off, but its stuck.
Never had a diesel before, or a car with a turbo. So I have very little knowledge on this. But learning by doing is the best way isnt it? Tongue

[Image: 20151023_121055_zpsxopl4pt1.jpg]

Seems like some oily stuff is getting through the hose from the pump to the IC/gauge. Is it supposed to be like that?
[Image: 20151023_121007_zpsokgazziu.jpg]

There is also alot of oil spil on the block. Its pretty high up. Head gasket? Or just the rocker cover gasket? Bit hard to see on the pic...
[Image: 20151023_120914_zpslc96uwxo.jpg]
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#20
bit of oil in there is normal don't worry, never had to remove the anti tamper covers myself but a robust screwdriver for the top one and maybe molegrips for the bottom one i would think, someone else will know better perhaps . .Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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#21
(23-10-2015, 11:54 AM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: bit of oil in there is normal don't worry, never had to remove the anti tamper covers myself but a robust screwdriver for the top one and maybe molegrips for the bottom one i would think, someone else will know better perhaps . .Smile

Bottom one is easy. Just afraid to break something on the top one Tongue Will try your tip!
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#22
Looks like a cheap, fun project. Smile

Got to love a phase 1. You've got headlamp washers which we never got in the UK.
This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted above as fact.

62k Diablo Phase 1 Gti-6:
Project Thread
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#23
Very cheap by Norwegian standard. You get 300 euros for scrapping your car Tongue and I paid 500. It needs a bit of love.
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#24
This is my enemy today. Its totally stuck. Also round so very hard to get a grip on it with any thing. And it doesnt move Tongue
There is some yellow stuff on it, might be glue.. Soaked it in wd40, so hope that does something. 

[Image: 20151025_131357_zpsw7nlj3yh.jpg]
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#25
Stop solenoid?

Take that bracket off in front for easier access
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#26
(25-10-2015, 02:35 PM)Paul_13 Wrote: Stop solenoid?

Take that bracket off in front for easier access

No, the tamper proof thing on the fuel screw Smile
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#27
Oh!
Real thin flat head screw driver and a pair of grips
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#28
Changing glow plugs. Was expecting it to be hard, cause of the tight space behind the pump. But this tool made it a breeze. Only issue is that I have to take brakes all the time because of sudden and short rain Smile

[Image: 20151026_115601_zps2mz0awah.jpg]
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#29
Well, apparently I cant do fmic conversion, or even a cold air intake. Norway has volunteered to see how EU's new MOT rules will work. Think we are the only country that adapted the new rules, and we arent even members of the EU Tongue
One of these new rules are that they have to look for mods made to increase HP. Which an fmic and a cold air intake ofc in their eyes are there for. 
The way around this is to get the car approved with these mods with the road authority. And to do that, you either need papers proving that the mods do not increase HP, or papers from peugeot that says the car can take the improvement(Which then also will have to include bigger breaks etc).

Stage 1 is ok, because power can vary 15% from stock, without the need to get things approved.

No one has the equipment to dyno the car, and very few will actually read an ecu to see if it has been mapped. But they will be looking for obvious engine room mods.

But I guess most of this is OK at the time being anyways. Need to sort the rear beam, as I can hear a knock from it from time to time going over bumps.(will get a new one in January)
That will set me back about 500£ for a refurbished one. And this is just the beam, it does not come with brakes on it. Probably have to do something to my old ones as well. Are all the beams the same? If I want to convert to rear discs, will any beam fit?
[Image: 76_2109800620.jpg]
And also drop links and track rods needs to be done at some point. Front right tire is a bit unevenly worn.

Might not be worth using that much time and money on this car. But this car is going to be my learning to do stuff your self car. Always done easy fixes on previous cars like ball joints etc. But I want to learn more, it is rewarding to fix everything yourself.

This is not really a project thread, more of a blog Tongue
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#30
The car is sometimes hard to start, and also chucks out a bit of white smoke. Hesitates while running for a few seconds, and then its fine. Changed plugs to duraterms 2 weeks ago, so they should be ok. Got new leak off pipes, so gonna try changing those on Sunday.
Anything else I should investigate? Also replaced the fuel filter lid, and tightened the 4 bolts with my fingers, and then used the key to tighten them a bit extra, didnt force em. Could that be a problem?
Might start fine in the morning, and then be silly in the evening. Temp outside is the same.
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