SRowells Diablo 1.8 - Jenvey 45s & OMEX600

[Eeyore]

This weekend I will be going away training with the boat. Dark nights are drawing in and I know at some point ill be towing in the dark so thought it would be a great idea to have working trailer lights. Because the nights are dark from 6 onwards and I only finish work at 5 then I needed a way of working in the dark.

One trip to B&Q and £28 later I have an awesome 400W tripod lamp which I am really pleased with!



There was no where to buy a socket and cable from at short notice so I went to halfords and bought a 6m tow cable extension and cut it in half to get the socket end. The way I envisage the new tow electrics is that the socket will sit in the boot and can be fed down to the tow bar when needed. This saves it getting filled with salt water when launching boats etc. Bracket will be angle ground off at a later date!

Previously only the left indicator and left brake light was working. Nothing else D: . The soldering iron gave up yet again. No idea whats wrong with it but its pathetic. What I decided to do was to use lots of bullet connectors so that the electrics would be removable for super light weight track time... and also if the socket ever got broken. The previous one was always submerged when launching the speedboat so no wonder it didnt work when it looked like this...



some rewiring later...



and some tape later!



sorted and all working! Spent half an hour to work out why everything wasnt working. Turned out the lightboard I was testing on was broken. Tried another and everything worked fine! Yay! Roll on the weekend!

[mr_fish]

Wow, that electric socket was shafted. Perhaps keep a can of contact cleaner in the boot for the day after your boating antics.

dedication there working in the dark.

[1616six]

Is the light pod single or twin lamp?

[powerandtorque]

One trip to B&Q and £28 later I have an awesome 400W tripod lamp which I am really pleased with!

The sun on a stick

They're great, very bright and surprisingly warming in winter, but I suggest that you keep a few bulbs spare as they seem to eat them in double quick time.

[Eeyore]

Wow, that electric socket was shafted. Perhaps keep a can of contact cleaner in the boot for the day after your boating antics.

dedication there working in the dark.

So there were 3 bolts holding it on. One i managed to get out and the other two rounded. Go a crowbar underneath to get it off so it was in more than once piece before that. It gets corroded as the entire car is submerged up to the drivers foot well when launching some of the bigger powerboats at the sailing centre. Doesnt happen often but obviously the salt water gets in the socket and cant get hosed down!

Lesson learnt haha and the cable now is coiled up and lives under the jack. It can then be uncoiled and fed under the car when needed. Otherwise I can just put boats in with the bar and not get the electrics wet!

Is the light pod single or twin lamp?

Single lamp J118 bulb. Its really good it cost £28 and although its a bit cheap im actually really impressed with it. The cable is a decent length, its brighter than day light and its super stable and height adjustable!

[1616six]

Single lamp J118 bulb. Its really good it cost £28 and although its a bit cheap im actually really impressed with it. The cable is a decent length, its brighter than day light and its super stable and height adjustable!

Thanks

I was considering one myself for detailing, although if you look on screwfix they are £28.49 for a twin..

http://www.screwfix.com/p/f1812-2-double...240v/71555#

[Eeyore]

Single lamp J118 bulb. Its really good it cost £28 and although its a bit cheap im actually really impressed with it. The cable is a decent length, its brighter than day light and its super stable and height adjustable!

Thanks

I was considering one myself for detailing, although if you look on screwfix they are £28.49 for a twin..

http://www.screwfix.com/p/f1812-2-double...240v/71555#

oh wow yeh thats the same but with 2 haha. tbh just the one is blinding!Would be good to turn one the other way round though so you light up everything!

[Eeyore]

So whats happened.... Coilovers came off and had a bit of a clean up. Here is a picture of my shaft...



here are the top hat spring retainers I bought. Came with a 10mm pilot hole with I then ground out to 15mm.



These then go onto the shaft and sit on the shoulder in the first picture...



and then the washer goes on....



and then the baker bm mounts go on...



and then the threaded sleeve nut goes on. It has 8 threads of grip which is enough. unfortunately the adjustable part is hidden deep inside the sleeve nut so cant be adjusted with the original tool... Because you cant access the flat part of the top of the shaft there is only one terrible way to tighten the sleeve nut. 21mm socket on the nut and then a rag and molegrips on the shaft D: Sleeve nut must be threadlocked in otherwise it will work loose.



the struts go back in...



and then the mount is bolted up to the turret. Camber adjustment needs to be set with the 2 centre bolts and the rear mounting bolt. Only settings 0 and 1 are possible without cutting a strut brace or the suspension turret. Bolts need to be longer to accommodate the strut brace.



FYI the bolts needed for baker bm mounts and a strut brace are 25mm M8x1.25 with a countersunk head. The ones supplied in the kit arent long enough to be used with a strut brace as shown in the picture above.

The springs are then wound up so they are located in the spring retaining collect and are under a bit of tension.
Adjustable drop links are fitted and in this case were set as short as possible to compensate for lows. Anti-roll bars are horizontal and under tension being pulled up. Ideally they should be neutral when the car is on the floor but its difficult to do this without a ramp or pit.
*Believe this is correct*



and thats baker bm and adjustable drop links fitted.... This setup means the shaft sits lower in the shock which means you cant run as low as before. This causes bottoming out unless ride height is raised. I would suggest only a 40mm drop is possible with AVOs and this setup.

To run any lower we would need to put the shafts in a lase and turn down the shoulder or run harder springs. Standard rate is 250lbs. Upgraded would be 275 or 300lb.

[jammapic]

Sam, be careful and keep an eye on those nuts (and ensure they have plenty of thread-lock on!) as none of them on the strut tops, damper shaft actually look secure - in my opinion.

When you start loading these things up on track, that could be a recipe for disaster....

JP

[Eeyore]

Nice little light shot with the new work light!



old original gearbox mount off and shiny new baker bm mount in! Probably the mount with the least play in it but it was easy to change. Looks almost identical to me but it feels a little bit better. Sure it will work better when combined with the other two mounts!

[Eeyore]

Sam, be careful and keep an eye on those nuts (and ensure they have plenty of thread-lock on!) as none of them on the strut tops, damper shaft actually look secure - in my opinion.

When you start loading these things up on track, that could be a recipe for disaster....

JP

Yep definitely need longer bolts. Will be ordering some soon. They are all done up super tight and the rear one has plenty of thread. Its in hand!

[Eeyore]

Also im frairly sure the coilovers are the wrong way round haha. The angle of the drop links is rediculous. And im a complete nonce... adjustables are set on their shortest setting but once its on the ground then they actually need to be longer... need to put the car on the ground and adjust them then.

Job for tomorrow!

[Ruan]

Super Tight =/= Torqued with Thread lock on...

Please don't just tighten it to "FT" and leave it!

[Eeyore]

The countersunk bolts are 20mm long with a thread length of 14mm. Will be ordering some 25mm long bolts to replace them so I can actually get into the nylon part of the nut.

[Toms306]

Could've done with that light doing the clutch lol!!

Good progress again though!

[Eeyore]

The countersunk bolts are 20mm long with a thread length of 14mm. Will be ordering some 25mm long bolts to replace them so I can actually get into the nylon part of the nut.

Ordered!

Ecu has also been playing up as in the thread below. Injectors and fuel pump are stuck on when ignition is in position 2. Charged the battery up and seems to be working now. Drive out tonight will confirm that its working again D:

http://306oc.co.uk/forum/thread-27309.html

[Eeyore]

Bolts have Arrived! These are the longer ones which are long enough to run the baker BM mounts with a strut brace.

For the record these are the wires for the two sockets found on the passenger side chassis leg. These are needed for any loom conversion etc.

19 pin GTI-6 connector
 
140 obd socket (green) - Not Used
 141 obd socket (beige) - Not Used
 480 engine fault light (beige)- Not Used
 401 coolant temp gauge (beige)
 M444 permanent earth (yellow/green)
 414 oil level gauge (yellow)
 415 oil level gauge (green)
 410 oil pressure warning light (yellow)
 465 vehicle speed sensor (yellow)
 426 rev/tacho speed (red)
 411 oil temp sender (red) - Not Used
 CC4 airbag control switched live (grey)
 C120 Reverse light switch (grey)
 220 Reverse light switch (orange)
 123 lambda switched live (grey) - Not Used
 1070 Alternator warning light (dark brown/red)
 400 Coolant temp gauge (white)
 100 Starter motor switched live (thick white)
 120 fuel pump switched live (thick white)

8 Pin GTI-6 connector - Not used cut off and seal off bare ends of wiring.

[Eeyore]

In the middle of some work atm. Ive completely redone the engine loom to check for breaks in wires. All seems fine and the loom is all properly made up now! Located the problem to be the plug between the ecu and loom. Car runs fine if you wiggle it and if you wiggle it again itll stop. Interesting one with more investigation later today.

In the mean time Ive been doing some other bits. Airbag is out as it wasnt doing anything anyway. Airbag ECU is removed as well which gives me a good location to mount the ecu.



Also a while ago saw some genuine pug roofbars on ebay. They didnt sell twice so I messaged the seller and made him and offer and got them including postage for £35! Almost new! just a few scratches!

[Eeyore]

so yesterday the air bag came out...

today I took the frame out. First by undoing the bolts...



The sprung pin came out too...



Then breaking the rivets with a small screwdriver.



frame removed...



small selection of screws found...



and now one airbag removed and one upper glove box fitted!




Just putting the rest of the car together and mounting the ecu. Needs a good clean and vaccum!

[Grant]

Looking good dude. Better than having a gaping void there.


Should man up and chop the dash down though tbh

[Eeyore]

Looking good dude. Better than having a gaping void there.


Should man up and chop the dash down though tbh

Not on a 5 door! haha need a 3 door stripped and caged first! Even then id keep the dash!

[Eeyore]

So... not much has happened.

The intermittent fault with the ecu has continued. I did 500 miles last Wednesday and then on Thursday it didn't work at all. Since then I have been unable to even connect to the ecu with the laptop.

The ECU is now in a postage depot on its way to OMEX so hopefully in the next few days fingers crossed a problem will be found, fixed and I will have a working car!

no mods on the horizon for now. Just need to get the insurance and tax paid. Mods that I can be getting on with with parts I have are...

paint mirrors
paint scuttle panels
clean engine bay
fix front bumper
fit baker bm engine mounts
fit solid rear beam mounts
polish throttlebodies
refurb wheels and polish rims.

[Piggy]

Annoying but peace of mind with omex looking at it.

How did you fix the upper glovebox? I forgot to get a frame with mine from the donor car so its not 100% secure

[Eeyore]

Annoying but peace of mind with omex looking at it.

How did you fix the upper glovebox? I forgot to get a frame with mine from the donor car so its not 100% secure

there's a frame? D: that would make sense. It fits well but its a bit wobbly and the screws dont really screw in to the dash. They are more kind of placed in. Its not going to fall out but the whole ting is a bit wobbly!

[Piggy]

Yeah same here! Has to be a frame to screw into for sure!

[Eeyore]

Yeah same here! Has to be a frame to screw into for sure!

are you sure? i mean have you seen one or do you just think there should be one? I thought that it used the same holes but fitting the air bag made them larger as it used rivets.

[Piggy]

Duno...need a trip to scrappy asap so will have a look

[procta]

coming on well Srowell, was it hard to do the engine loom?

[Eeyore]

Duno...need a trip to scrappy asap so will have a look

Let me know what you find!

coming on well Srowell, was it hard to do the engine loom?

Looking back on it... the answer is no! The omex has a loom which connects to most thing and has the right connectors to begin with! Knowing how relays should be wired etc is essential but thats just basic electronics and anyone can understand that after 5 minutes of googling diagrams. The difficult bit is knowing which wires to strip out of the round connectors on the passenger side chassis leg! Even harder than that is wrapping the loom up and making everything the right length!

I drove round for ages with all the wires just taped up and the ecu in bubblewrap in the engine bay. Took a few months to get round to routing it through the bulkhead and putting it in conduit. My advice would be dont both with conduit and just use self amalgamating tape on the entire thing!

[procta]

i bet it was tricky, it took me 3 days to sort out the metros main car loom 1st time around, now with the reshell i sorted out what i had done wrong and done a way with a few wires that i didn't need, also i am still wire tiding now!