SRowells Diablo 1.8 - Jenvey 45s & OMEX600

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SRowells Diablo 1.8 - Jenvey 45s & OMEX600
Agreed welshpug. Best thing I ever did was fitting some proper suspension and raising up the ride height. Its brilliant now!

Car looks great Sam!!

JP
JP
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coming on really well sam! Are you pushing for more power or is that it?
also have you scrapped the estate?
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(15-09-2014, 08:03 PM)welshpug Wrote: its nowhere near stiff enough to run that low, its sitting on the bump stops on the back and lifting the inside wheel from weight transfer.

aye, I get ya.

Yeah, cocking a wheel isnt always a good thing!!
Wishes for more power...
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It's a meridian beam guys. Should be picking up a gti6 one in the near future.

Tonight I took delivery of my replacement rear bumper and also got a good as new gti6 front arb.

As for future power upgrades I've got a replacement gti6 head lined up which should be going on in the next few months.
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You don't want the front arb, its likely you have the same one anyway, but if not the lighter front end doesnt need a stiffer bar, youll have more grip without a big bar on the front and less understeer.
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Oh crap... My meridian beam bars were tiny!!!! That will make a big difference chap
Wishes for more power...
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Decent rear beam setup, decent mounts on everything, some camber, a diff and you are laughing!
JP
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Meridian bars aren't exactly tiny lol, they're 19mm...that's only 1mm less than GTi!

That said, since having a GTi beam on my own car, the difference is massive!
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And vts/late estate 21mm bars make the merdian beam feel like a bus beam!
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Tom the difference between 20mm and 21mm is about 22% stiffer...
Peugeot 206 GTI HDI
Volvo V50 2.0d
Volvo XC90 D5







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True, but the ride is already compromised with a GTi beam, I wouldn't want any bigger on a daily myself. You've gotta get the compromise right as with everything else on a road and track car.

(16-09-2014, 09:21 AM)Anton Wrote: Tom the difference between 20mm and 21mm is about 22% stiffer...

That's quite precise lol, is it that much per mm of diameter, or doesn't it work like that?

As said, I definitely noticed the difference with a GTi beam after having several Meridians...not sure I'd have guessed 20% more though!
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Remember the rear ARB is much bigger on the GTi beam compared to Meridian spec - 24mm vs 20mm!
1990 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1991 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 16v // 1992 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1999 Peugeot 306 HDi Estate
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Oh, that'll explain why it skips over rough corners then! Dodgy
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My meridian arb was 19mm. Cabriolet beam arb is 18mm!! lol
Wishes for more power...
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Fair enough, the last one I stripped was 20mm, so presumed they were all that - 18/19mm is even more hopelessly ineffective!

I only really tend to pay any attention to 306 XSi/GTi or Xsara VTS spec beams as they're a sensible starting point for a 306 that you want to actually drive in anger.

If you're still running the original 1.8 beam then don't fit that front ARB yet Sam as you really need an XSI/GTi spec rear ARB to keep things balanced - as mentioned above, if you increase the front ARB rate without a similar increase on the rear it'll become prone to understeer and spinning-up the inside front wheel.
1990 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1991 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 16v // 1992 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1999 Peugeot 306 HDi Estate
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(16-09-2014, 10:19 AM)powerandtorque Wrote: Fair enough, the last one I stripped was 20mm, so presumed they were all that - 18/19mm is even more hopelessly ineffective!

I only really tend to pay any attention to 306 XSi/GTi or Xsara VTS spec beams as they're a sensible starting point for a 306 that you want to actually drive in anger.

If you're still running the original 1.8 beam then don't fit that front ARB yet Sam as you really need an XSI/GTi spec rear ARB to keep things balanced - as mentioned above, if you increase the front ARB rate without a similar increase on the rear it'll become prone to understeer and spinning-up the inside front wheel.

I have gti suspension on the front of my pov spec HDi LX and can vouch for the understeer with a standard rear beam lol
[Image: 17b33c2a-8471-4313-992e-0a4b324cf926_zps2e63812a.jpg]
Team Cyril
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Got a few plans for this weekend amongst lots of sailing!

Fit good condition rear bumper
Redo fan wiring
Fix the reverse lever
Replace top engine mounts
Clean, vacuum and polish

Also a few more things to buy:

Solid Eccentric Top mounts
GAZ coilover adapters for the top mounts
GTI6 Beam
GTI6 Head
Replacement Bolts

Quick pic of the engine bay from Combe. Still lots of wiring to fix but at least the ecu is safe in the cabin!

[Image: attachment.php?thumbnail=18991]
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Also sorting out some videos. Just converted some of the track footage but that wont be uploaded until next week. Uploaded this quick off the mobile. Nice little play through a tunnel with a ferrari. Bit of cheeky popping going on!

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(18-09-2014, 08:09 PM)SRowell Wrote: Also sorting out some videos. Just converted some of the track footage but that wont be uploaded until next week. Uploaded this quick off the mobile. Nice little play through a tunnel with a ferrari. Bit of cheeky popping going on!


I bet the Ferrari driver was loving that! seems to be he thought it was funny the way he was responding to you.
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Yes the Ferrari driver was a middle aged man in a hoody with his young son in the passenger seat. They both gave me the thumbs up and the kid was going nuts haha. Sounded so good and its a shame the phone isn't great.
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Find an old loom and rob the cable tidy/stroud stuff. Will make the bay look OEM then. ThumbsUp

good to see yourself and the car at the weekend.
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Can you please put an RS head on now plzkthx.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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... and some longer trumpets!!!

JP
JP
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(19-09-2014, 09:13 AM)mr_fish Wrote: Find an old loom and rob the cable tidy/stroud stuff. Will make the bay look OEM then. ThumbsUp

good to see yourself and the car at the weekend.

Yeh great to see you too buddy. I've already bought all new conduit but I do need to get some of the junction plastic bits.

(19-09-2014, 09:29 AM)Ruan Wrote: Can you please put an RS head on now plzkthx.

Yes it'll be happening after mot and insurance is paid for!

(19-09-2014, 09:31 AM)jammapic Wrote: ... and some longer trumpets!!!

JP

Maybe!
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how can you sleep at night knowing your loom looks like that?
just red through all of your thread and i admire you for being different keep up the good work.
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Because it works! Its under constant improvement but its in constant use so I never have time to do it properly.
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Get a longer inlet, saves buying more trumpets Big Grin
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Those longer satchell inlets arent worth the money in my opinion... Dyno tested before you tell me how great they are welshpug!! Smile

Biggest issue was the position it leaves the trumpets in.

I tested both their shallow and tight angle ones, and none of them positioned as well as the longmans one, with spacers.
JP
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so where's all the data to back that claim up?

they don't cost any more than the Jenvey item which is useless as it points the trumpets at the bloody bonnet.
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I'm on my phone at the moment, at the in laws house when I get home.

I took pictures of the angles it left everything at, and we dynod for each setup...

Hang fire and I'll look on photobucket for a PIC of the ones we tried.

Here. These are what we tested.

[Image: DSCF7630_zps969a2555.jpg]

The Satchell ones either positioned the bodies so low down they were behind the rad, we lost power due to heatsoak, or the ones with less angle were so high up the filter got squashed and we lost power due to air restriction.

I don't have the dyno plots on photobucket, so will get them off my PC for you when I get home.

Welshpug, I have data for everything mate... Don't worry! Wink

I disagree with you. If you use spacers and long trumpets, the longmans one is positioned absolutely perfectly...
JP
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