The Racetractor. The End.

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The Racetractor. The End.
Yeah....anywaaaaaaay


Getting closer...

[attachment=18379]
Wishes for more power...
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[attachment=18380]
Wishes for more power...
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(12-08-2014, 09:05 PM)Piggy Wrote: Yeah....anywaaaaaaay


Getting closer...

Well we currently run the same clutch, yours judders and mine doesn't, your choice!
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Anyone for a 1984 Siemens ECU...

[attachment=18382]

lol

Just need a male to male usb2.0 which Im hoping my geek friend is guna get me tomorrow for patching between laptop n ecu.

Then need to wire sensors into loom in engine bay.... Swap actuators and make better actuator bracket.

....hopefully all that done tomorrow evening!

Got some cooling fans yet to fit...not sure if I will need them...not sure if may aswell just fit them for safety Undecided
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Why haven't you put the screen cable on a connector?
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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Not got another 12pin connector. Not sure yet on where to put it yet either

But thanks for the negative Niall Tongue
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You sir need to have a look on RS. You could pick up a 12 pin much smaller than the one you are using at the moment
Edit: Also, im assuming your mounting this in the engine bay? If so, i wouldn't bother with a cooling fan. I really can't see it getting that hot and your just opening up another hole for water and crap to get in.
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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Nope. Its sitting in the dash. And its the voltage board and then the FET that can get a bit toasty. I rekon my little 3cm fan will be getting fitted just for protection.

I'll look on RS?! Is that like rs.co.uk?? I needed the bigger connector to transfer more power through a couple lines.
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Let me have a look tomorrow for you and see what i can dig up. In fact, i might even have something at work which would do the job nicely.
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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Personally wouldn't pump air into the casing buddy, just a recipe for moisture to get in and crud up everything - if it was all conformal coated, I'd say otherwise, but it's bare exposed connections, you'll have green crusty joints in seconds...

The FETs ain't going to pump a massive amount of heat out - if anything just pop the fan inside the case just to move a little bit of air round - it's not going to overheat the air inside the case...

Also - want a REALLY cheap way of getting 12 pins through that?!

[Image: a912_1-500x500.png]

Cheap, reliable, easy to come across, easy to terminate, only 6 pins, but just put two connectors on it and label them Smile If you're wanting lovely military spec connectors?

[Image: 34.4070.jpg]

Not cheap mind, but are lovely connectors.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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RS components piggy thousands of plugs on there lol

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/
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Science!
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Holy crap RS connectors are big bucks!!!!! Plus theres 1,000s!!!
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Hence the cat5/5e connectors... Cheap, reliable, easy to come by, easy to terminate.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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... and can do huge lengths of cable, easily, neatly and cheaply!!
JP
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All sorts of options for cable too - from lovely soft pliable stranded stuff, to riser spec armoured cable.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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Alright alright. Lets get it bloody running first!

Engine loom done...just needs conduit once Im happy that wiring is good.

Mini fan fitted inside box on regs board.

All seemed to work then other than I have an earthing issue somewhere...but reckon its the single pin temp sensor which doesnt work on Arduino as me and Ruan worked out!
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(08-08-2014, 08:44 AM)Piggy Wrote: Ok...random...lost speedo, rpm and fuel gauges. Still got temp tho!!?? Any thoughts?!

There is a fuse that blows repeatedly on my Rallye for this circuit. The time clock goes too. It's the fuse for the clock that you need to replace when it does so.

Sounds like you perhaps nudged the shunt fuse in your case.
Night Blue VW Golf 7 GTD : Bianca 306 Rallye : Mini Cooper D (The Mrs')
[Image: wallye-gtd.JPG?raw=1]
HDi Owner for 200k/9 years
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Would it be possible perhaps to put a heatsink somewhere? Just a thought.
This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted above as fact.

62k Diablo Phase 1 Gti-6:
Project Thread
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Heatsink for what?


Just fighting an earth or short issue currently. Works fine when plugged into usb...doesnt wana know when stand alone. Undecided
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Power issue sorted...needed to swap a 5v reg for a 9v one.

Next issue is rpm....

Arduino thinks Im doing between 22k rpm and 42k rpm when running and between 800rpm and 8200rpm when not even running.... Got an issue there me thinks!
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If your still looking for a connector you could use lpt (parrel port) connector you'll have 25 pins soo room to expand
Cherry red 205 XUD VNT - Project thread here http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=25522
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Good piggy, hopefully soon all problems solutions.
I think there is an option where you indicate the number of points to be read by the RPM sensor.
Menu 1
No. teeths-03 F
03 Change the number of points by reading your sensor.
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Yeah its something other than that pal....but thanks
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looking topper piggy! id love to do a box of tricks like that!
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(14-08-2014, 10:02 AM)Piggy Wrote: Heatsink for what?

If it is getting hot? As an alternative to having a fan in the case and risk getting dust and humidity in it, it might be possible to have an external heatsink somewhere with airflow?
It's just a random thought, I don't know much about electronics!
This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted above as fact.

62k Diablo Phase 1 Gti-6:
Project Thread
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Ah I see... Each regulator and the fet all have individual heatsinks. Fan is now fitted inside too for some air movement. I may wack the exterior temp sensor inside the box once its running to see whats happening.
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(12-08-2014, 07:40 AM)HDi--Power Wrote:
(12-08-2014, 05:43 AM)Piggy Wrote:
(12-08-2014, 12:33 AM)Hdi-power Wrote: I suspect your clutch cable is improperly adjusted, try pushing the pedal right to the floor and then slipping your foot off it and letting it spring back up (bit awkward to do) try it ten times and I bet your clutch will be very driveable

Erm, no, thats not the problem. Its a paddle clutch!

I also have a paddle clutch, and have had a few CG paddle clutches, cable adjustment was always the cause of excess judder, particularly when trying to reverse, mine is very very driveable now, humour me and try it Wink

So...I did.

Now I have a juddering clutch AND a clutch pedal 3inches higher than my brake pedal and clutch slip now because its holding the clutch on slightly.

Great Angry
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In which case, you need to really stamp on the clutch pedal hard a few times.
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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Will it reset itself then back down??

Only other options are a £40 new cable from motor factors or stick my second hand spare one on...

Ruans over tomorrow to guide me through tuning the arduino...need a non slippy slutch for that!
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