GTi-6 - ITBs & CAMMED Track Car.. LATEST VIDEO

[declantg]

What mould is that CF bonnet? Mine fit flush

[jammapic]

Spoox one with badge in it. Don't know, not really bothered to be honest.

[declantg]

Ah okay. Front badge fit snug? Mine needed to be trimmed a good few mm on the sides to fit

[Ed Doe]

Few questions (as always!)

1. Geometry set up as per btcc spec cars.... Pray tell us more...!
2. Your lighter wheels, I forget are they 16s td 1.2s?
3. When you took your suspension apart to locate the knock, was it just the wishbones you took off?
4. Your brembos, are you using those tarox g88(?) discs for no squeal? Either way, how is the squeal? Is the stopping g power noticeably better over stock 6 calipers?

[jammapic]

Ah okay. Front badge fit snug? Mine needed to be trimmed a good few mm on the sides to fit

It fits perfectly everywhere except that drivers side wing. I actually have to use bonnet pins to hold it in place properly. Apparently there are a lot like this. You don't really notice it on the car tbh... I might try and trim it a bit on that wing to see if I can make it more flush. Did you just use a flap wheel?

Few questions (as always!)

1. Geometry set up as per btcc spec cars.... Pray tell us more...!
2. Your lighter wheels, I forget are they 16s td 1.2s?
3. When you took your suspension apart to locate the knock, was it just the wishbones you took off?
4. Your brembos, are you using those tarox g88(?) discs for no squeal? Either way, how is the squeal? Is the stopping g power noticeably better over stock 6 calipers?

1. Obviously we struggle to set up the rear beam as per, as they run more toe, but the front end can be set up as such. They run toe out and different caster / camber than a lowered road car.

2. Yep, TD 1.2 in 16", powder coated. They are about 8kg each as opposed to the 12kg each of a challenger.

3. No, I took the wishbones out, bushes out, front struts out, laid everything on the drive and cleaned EVERYTHING, including the subframe. I had already changed the balljoints, top mounts etc but that didn't fix it. I did also nip up all the bolts for the roll cage, but doubtful that would clunk under your feet...

4. Yep, I use Tarox G88 Xantia V6 discs, no squeal whatsoever to be honest. Stopping power, awesome. Pedal travel, unacceptable. 4 pistons per brake caliper mean so much more fluid to more, the pedal moves so much before you start to slow down. I've got an even bigger master cyl in the shed I plan on fitting when I've got time.


JP

[declantg]

The bonnet I had fit perfectly flush everywhere. I literally needed to trim te pug badge a few mm to slot it in

[Ed Doe]

1. Obviously we struggle to set up the rear beam as per, as they run more toe, but the front end can be set up as such. They run toe out and different caster / camber than a lowered road car.

2. Yep, TD 1.2 in 16", powder coated. They are about 8kg each as opposed to the 12kg each of a challenger.

3. No, I took the wishbones out, bushes out, front struts out, laid everything on the drive and cleaned EVERYTHING, including the subframe. I had already changed the balljoints, top mounts etc but that didn't fix it. I did also nip up all the bolts for the roll cage, but doubtful that would clunk under your feet...

4. Yep, I use Tarox G88 Xantia V6 discs, no squeal whatsoever to be honest. Stopping power, awesome. Pedal travel, unacceptable. 4 pistons per brake caliper mean so much more fluid to more, the pedal moves so much before you start to slow down. I've got an even bigger master cyl in the shed I plan on fitting when I've got time.

I'll keep the bits numbered as it makes it easier to follow!!
I'm a bit confused!

1. I thought you didn't have adjustable top-mounts, as there was just no point running more caster/camber on a road car..? Or are you using different wishbone/406 hubs/shafts to give you the camber? Also, as you say you can't adjust the toe of the rear beam; if you then go and adjust the front toe to toe out as per the btcc spec cars it would make the car very unsettled at speed, and this would surely be compounded by the rear, which if it has less toe would also be quite unstable...? Just interested as there's obviously a lot to play with and little things make a big difference in how these cars handle...
Also, have you looked at the Bridgecraft Engineer Roll-centre kits over on the '6 forum? I believe they're only currently for the smaller ball-joints, but they in effect reset the wishbone angle to the hub, meaning as the suspension loads up, you're getting a small increase in camber as mcpherson struts do, rather than when they've gone past the parallel, and you end up marginally reducing the camber as the suspension loads up.... Let me know if that doesn't make sense???

3. Hmm, well I've just got those new design adjustable top-mounts through in the post today, so need to get the struts out anyway; might as well strip the wishbones etc out when i'm under there. it'll give me a chance to get the adjustable droplinks set up correctly too

4. Interesting that, I thought the pedal travel would be increased but not that much! I'd have expected it to be better to modulate the braking force having a bit more travel too...

[jammapic]

Keeping with our numbering theme...

1) More camber / castor is not necessarily the way to go... getting it set RIGHT is. I run adjustables yes, but not so I can run rude camber yo - because I want it setting equally both sides and within spec (which you lose when lowering on mcpherson). Yes looked into those wishbone kit things, but don't do them for 18mm.

3) Do it. If you want to know specs when you are setting it up, let me know.

4) It moves about half way down it's entire travel and then becomes totally solid... it's a normal problem fitting 4 or 6 pots to cars... had the same thing on Golf, on Fiesta etc etc.

JP

1. Obviously we struggle to set up the rear beam as per, as they run more toe, but the front end can be set up as such. They run toe out and different caster / camber than a lowered road car.

2. Yep, TD 1.2 in 16", powder coated. They are about 8kg each as opposed to the 12kg each of a challenger.

3. No, I took the wishbones out, bushes out, front struts out, laid everything on the drive and cleaned EVERYTHING, including the subframe. I had already changed the balljoints, top mounts etc but that didn't fix it. I did also nip up all the bolts for the roll cage, but doubtful that would clunk under your feet...

4. Yep, I use Tarox G88 Xantia V6 discs, no squeal whatsoever to be honest. Stopping power, awesome. Pedal travel, unacceptable. 4 pistons per brake caliper mean so much more fluid to more, the pedal moves so much before you start to slow down. I've got an even bigger master cyl in the shed I plan on fitting when I've got time.

I'll keep the bits numbered as it makes it easier to follow!!
I'm a bit confused!

1. I thought you didn't have adjustable top-mounts, as there was just no point running more caster/camber on a road car..? Or are you using different wishbone/406 hubs/shafts to give you the camber? Also, as you say you can't adjust the toe of the rear beam; if you then go and adjust the front toe to toe out as per the btcc spec cars it would make the car very unsettled at speed, and this would surely be compounded by the rear, which if it has less toe would also be quite unstable...? Just interested as there's obviously a lot to play with and little things make a big difference in how these cars handle...
Also, have you looked at the Bridgecraft Engineer Roll-centre kits over on the '6 forum? I believe they're only currently for the smaller ball-joints, but they in effect reset the wishbone angle to the hub, meaning as the suspension loads up, you're getting a small increase in camber as mcpherson struts do, rather than when they've gone past the parallel, and you end up marginally reducing the camber as the suspension loads up.... Let me know if that doesn't make sense???

3. Hmm, well I've just got those new design adjustable top-mounts through in the post today, so need to get the struts out anyway; might as well strip the wishbones etc out when i'm under there. it'll give me a chance to get the adjustable droplinks set up correctly too

4. Interesting that, I thought the pedal travel would be increased but not that much! I'd have expected it to be better to modulate the braking force having a bit more travel too...

[Ed Doe]

Keeping with our numbering theme...

1) More camber / castor is not necessarily the way to go... getting it set RIGHT is. I run adjustables yes, but not so I can run rude camber yo - because I want it setting equally both sides and within spec (which you lose when lowering on mcpherson). Yes looked into those wishbone kit things, but don't do them for 18mm.

3) Do it. If you want to know specs when you are setting it up, let me know.

4) It moves about half way down it's entire travel and then becomes totally solid... it's a normal problem fitting 4 or 6 pots to cars... had the same thing on Golf, on Fiesta etc etc.

Why stop now..!

1. I appreciate that, I've never been a fan of silly camber, I'd much rather have the car set up to maximise the available grip. I also think personally a lot of the fun of having adjustable camber is being able to experiment and work out what set-up works best for given applications. hence why I approached Baker with the design they've now produced, so I can have a play with different set-ups to see what works best as a compromise for road use, track-use etc. As you say, another reason for wanting adjustable top-mounts is to gain the camber lost by lowering.

3. I've been speaking to a couple of people about properly setting the car up, could you pm me the specs please, as I'll be looking to get the car sorted out early April in the hope we get some nice early sunshine this year

4. Cheers for the info, have you got the 406 coupe mc then?

[jammapic]

Why stop now..!

1. I appreciate that, I've never been a fan of silly camber, I'd much rather have the car set up to maximise the available grip. I also think personally a lot of the fun of having adjustable camber is being able to experiment and work out what set-up works best for given applications. hence why I approached Baker with the design they've now produced, so I can have a play with different set-ups to see what works best as a compromise for road use, track-use etc. As you say, another reason for wanting adjustable top-mounts is to gain the camber lost by lowering.

3. I've been speaking to a couple of people about properly setting the car up, could you pm me the specs please, as I'll be looking to get the car sorted out early April in the hope we get some nice early sunshine this year

4. Cheers for the info, have you got the 406 coupe mc then?

1. Yep, as we get so much negative camber when we lower we can dial it out with adjustables. Also, remember the castor goes to shit too when we lower and mess about with things.

3. Will do, I've got them all written down on paper at the moment - will write up for you.

4. Yes, I have - needs fitting, though that said the extra brake travel makes heel toe'ing much easier as you can really lean on the brake pedal.


JP

[Poodle]

Any chance we could get the specs posted up as a guide or something?

Also, roll-centre kits, why can't you just swap the balljoint over to 18mm ones?

[Ed Doe]

Nah they do them for 16mm bjs only not 18s yet poodle...

[Poodle]

Got that, thanks Ed lol, just misunderstood how they work. In which case, why not just swap the hubs to 16mm ones? :p

[Ed Doe]

This should clarify poodle!

http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=146338

And yes you could get 16mms but it's a pita changing hubs and basically I cba lol!

[jammapic]

and 18mm is just better :-)

[jammapic]

Ed,

To get it set up right - you'll need access to a proper 4 wheel laser alignment rig like the below - rather than a conventional "tracking" set up... but I assume you already know that?

Did you say you've got adjustable castor? You'll deffo want that....

JP

[Ed Doe]

I'll be getting it done on a proper 4 wheel jobbie don't worry! I don't have adjustable caster, the relatively small amount of adjustment permissible within the stock turrets means setting it for as much caster as possible will only aid handling imo... Have you had a chance to chuck those specs onto a pm yet for me pretty please

[Ben]

I'll be getting it done on a proper 4 wheel jobbie don't worry! I don't have adjustable caster, the relatively small amount of adjustment permissible within the stock turrets means setting it for as much caster as possible will only aid handling imo... Have you had a chance to chuck those specs onto a pm yet for me pretty please

Are your new BM mounts set up with maximum caster then?

[jammapic]

On it's way now...

[Poodle]

This should clarify poodle!

http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=146338

And yes you could get 16mms but it's a pita changing hubs and basically I cba lol!

Yeah cheers, I read that to find out how they worked lol.

It's like an hour job each side, mtfu! :p

[Ed Doe]

Cheers JP

Are your new BM mounts set up with maximum caster then?

Yup

[jammapic]

Given it a quick (and I mean QUICK, like 15 mins!) clean before it goes and does it's thing this weekend on a road rally... can't wait!












No knocks, no clunks, no pulls, working well... how long will this last? Lol!

JP

[declantg]

This is gorgeous

[ozonehostile]

1.2's look awesome in white

[Poodle]

Let us know how you get on with the road rally, sounds rather interesting...

[Dicky]

Is it the same road rally you did in the XUD? tell us how it goes

[jammapic]

OK... so long overdue thread update:

Took it on the road rally, was great fun, if a little cold and wet. The girlfriend thought this:





Then a couple of weeks later, did Curborough sprint day:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKxU12knmiM

http://youtu.be/WRVGePOdApU

Put the car back under it's cover outside, booked a load of track days this year, and then bought this:







That brings us up to date I think!

JP

[sam]

Car looks lush dude

[ozonehostile]

your videos really make me want a petrol again :/

[Dum-Dum]

I so need 8krpm in my life.

Who mapped your ecu, how much and can they do an XSi ECU?