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DeeC’s 306 VNT Turbo Build / Show Car Project
#31
This is the original fitting for the oil feed/drain, it had to be cut as it would never fit in the bay with the length of the pipes, anyone know what way I would go about fitting the lines to this? Im assuming if it was just clamped on by hose clamp the pressure would blow the pipes off?? Of would it be okay to fit it like that?? Any info on this would be appreciated!

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On a better note, the turbo is looking not sure about the position of the actuator yet... Im not sure if Ill have enough clearance, although I think its the only position ill be able to put it as it is now pushing on the turbo arm perfectly, unlessss.. I can make some kind of mechanism (I definitely don’t want to have to go down that road).
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#32
Give it a spin back and forth, it'll turn the alternator one direction, but spin freely and not spin the core in the other, if you struggle to turn it back and forth due to the weight of the assembly, it's not a clutched one. Looks like you've already got one as they usually have that black plastic cap on them, but I've seen them without the clutch but with the black cap, so YMMV.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
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#33
(15-04-2020, 08:17 AM)Ruan Wrote: Give it a spin back and forth, it'll turn the alternator one direction, but spin freely and not spin the core in the other, if you struggle to turn it back and forth due to the weight of the assembly, it's not a clutched one. Looks like you've already got one as they usually have that black plastic cap on them, but I've seen them without the clutch but with the black cap, so YMMV.


Sorted, I do indeed have one


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#34
So, started making an attack on the engine bay as I’m waiting on a few bits to arrive to finish building the engine, soo much rust

But I have made a good amount of progress since these photo’s were took.

Basically going to be stripping everything of loose rust to almost bare metal, then using hammerite gel rust remover to remove any excess rust, ( have tested already and does exactly what it says on the tin, great stuff! )

Going to be using Audi monsoon grey to paint the bay should look good against the exterior colour Im going with

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Since the A/C system is completely gone, and this patch of rot has developed, I thought theres no other way around it than to cut and replace the area including covering up the A/C pipes!

Still have some tidying up to do from the welding but we getting there..

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#35
Good work


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#36
Todays work consisted of sorting a cold air feed, straight into the air filter’s location.

Cut out the triangular support piece as it was battered and bent all roads.

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Used my plasma cutter to cut the hole for the pipework, used some 2” exhaust tubing I had laying around and came up with this.

Ive left it a little bit longer so I can work with it until I know where Im going to run the feed from, I was considering using the fog light hole as an air supply, although Im not sure if Im going to be fitting the fogs or using the covers..

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Cut and welded in replacement support piece, excuse the welds lol... not fully onto it yet

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(18-04-2020, 08:56 PM)Dturboleeds Wrote: Good work


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Thanks mate


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#37
Right folks, been really busy with getting the front end ready for the engine I never want to be stripping under-seal from arches ever again! But the mains thing is, the job is DONE!!!

It appeared to me that someone had undersealed over the rust, so I made it essential to strip everything down to bare metal and to treat whatever rust may be there..

Some before’s prior to stripping the under-seal.

As you can see its not a pretty sight, the car was rode without arch liners well before I bought it, ( 4 years ago ) and then had lay abandoned outside for 2 years so I wasn’t expecting any less.
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Looking a little better with the under-seal stripped off, and a good twist knot wire wheeling overall followed by some ‘Hammerite Rust Remover Gel’, wash that off and its good for painting once fully dried! ( I used an air line to blow out any water that may been laying within the creases.
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Full front end treated, prepared and ready for some etch’ing primer! The stage I thought I would never see lol
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Primer (2/3 coats)
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Next up was to seam seal, I would say this is the most important part of redoing any area of your cars chassis etc.

I spent a little less time being neat on the arches as these areas wont be seen. Will tidy up with paint and waxoyl anyways !
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#38
Looks much better cleaned up. Well done!
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#39
Some nice weather the past couple days, now have the bay painted and lacquered!

I picked moonson grey to paint the bay as I think it will create a nice contrast with the actual colour of the car once painted!

Some before and afters

Ill let the pictures speak for themselves...

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Have started getting the loom back on the frame, trying to figure out a way of hiding the fuse box bits under the bay somehow, think I may have to extend some wires, will get some pics uploaded in next few days ..


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#40
Oooh yea, that's looking good. Some hours gone into it, that's for sure. Looks like you finished just before the weather turned!
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#41
(11-05-2020, 09:23 AM)Eeyore Wrote: Looks much better cleaned up. Well done!


Thanks man


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(12-05-2020, 09:46 AM)Mighty306 Wrote: Oooh yea, that's looking good. Some hours gone into it, that's for sure. Looks like you finished just before the weather turned!


Yeah was crazy hours to be fair haha, but very happy with how it’s starting to look now, the time and effort is starting to pay off

Just have the gauges to sort, power-flex lower engine mount to fit and the subframe bits to tidy up and paint etc ; then its time for the engine again once I get the loom back on it!


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#42
In order to remove the fuse box in the bay, I realised that I would have to extend the wires to give some length as to where I would be hiding the mess..

So I began labelling each side of the wires where I would be making the cut ( ALWAYS DISCONNECT BATTERY BEFORE HAND!! )

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I figured if I mounted the contents under the front wheel arch area they would be completely out of the way and hopefully safe from water and dirt, may need some form of waterproofing just incase!

Not as easily accessed as the bumper will need to come off if I need at the fuses, but Ill not complain with that

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Using wires from an old loom I had laying around, I extended the wires soldering and heat shrinking each connection, tidying that up with some new conduit and job done!

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Also got the power-flex lower engine mount fitted.

Just need to order my top mount and gearbox mount now, whats everyones opinion on which brand is best to go for ???

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Exhaust temperature / Exhaust pressure gauge’s fitted to the manifold. Hoping the place of fitting is okay for taking measures from.

I bought just an ordinary oil pressure gauge, and will be using it to measure the exhaust pressure..

I bought a 1/8 NPT male to male fitting to thread into the manifold, using a female connector and some copper brake pipe too cool the heat before reaching the sensor as this is not supplied with an oil press gauge.

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#43
Decided to get the loom unraveled and opened up.. the plan was to leave the wiring routes as short and neat as possible.. so heres how its looking now.

Did away with some unnecessary stuff such as egr wires, air doser wires, the plug that goes to nowhere located on the wiring harness bracket and the water priming box thingy lol, the less the better..

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The cable ties will be coming off again once secured with electrical tape, was only to get the whole idea worked out first.. should tidy up really well once all is re-covered.


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#44
As the turbo Im using is in-fact a water cooled turbo, I know I don’t essentially have to plumb the water lines in, but I want to as it is there for a reason..

Would using the water pipe coming out of the side of the thermostat housing be okay to run through the turbo?

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#45
Hi there. Impressed with your progress. Re one of your earlier questions about engine mounts, I'd go for Pug ones if the budget permits & they aren't NFP. (Assume you're keeping the car long-term). Failing that you have a good chance of Lemforder or QH (Quinton Hazell) ones lasting reasonably well.
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#46
(21-05-2020, 07:36 AM)Mighty306 Wrote: Hi there. Impressed with your progress. Re one of your earlier questions about engine mounts, I'd go for Pug ones if the budget permits & they aren't NFP. (Assume you're keeping the car long-term). Failing that you have a good chance of Lemforder or QH (Quinton Hazell) ones lasting reasonably well.


Thanks for that, keeping it going really steady and progressive! Planning to have the car finished by the end of august, including paint! Not rushing it tho as I don’t want to be sitting buggering myself why I didn’t do this didn’t do that.. been there and done that.. not this time!

Im really open to whatever brand of mount, the cost doesn’t really worry me at this point .. I just want whats best out there for my type of build. Ive seen alot of people using Vibra-Technics, but I have read mixed reviews on them. Im not sure about stock mounts as I probably will require stiffer engine mounts.


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#47
Unless you've strengthened the top mounting point on the chassis that'll probably give up before the mount itself does. You probably know that the top mount points are subject to fatigue on the beefier engines.
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#48
(22-05-2020, 08:13 AM)Mighty306 Wrote: Unless you've strengthened the top mounting point on the chassis that'll probably give up before the mount itself does. You probably know that the top mount points are subject to fatigue on the beefier engines.


Turns out the top mounting point was already broke when I removed the mount, a piece had fell away from the mount completely, I welded in a piece of 3mm plate below the mounting area then filled it on up, also strengthened the sides with 5mm plate.

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#49
Okay so have made an attack on the sub frame yesterday with it being one of the last things needing sorted before the engine goes back in.

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Stripped, ready for degreasing/sandblasting..

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Coated with etching primer..

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Was working too hard I forgot to take any more progress pics.. but you get the point

And we have it ready for refitting with 2x new Moog arms with balljoints fitted, steering boot set fitted and a general tidying up with the rest of the parts.

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And its in!!! Tricky job with 2 hands and a trolley jack, didn’t have my engine crane to use as the engine is resting on it

Just have brake lines to sort now for the abs delete and the engine should be ready for fitting once the Vibra-Techs come! Getting exciting now

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#50
That's all come up nice. You could eat off that subframe. Like night & day when compared to everything on my car ....caked in oil, dirt & rust! Smile

The purple brake booster is an interesting touch ...not to my taste, but everyone to their own!
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#51
(27-05-2020, 09:48 AM)Mighty306 Wrote: That's all come up nice. You could eat off that subframe. Like night & day when compared to everything on my car ....caked in oil, dirt & rust! Smile

The purple brake booster is an interesting touch ...not to my taste, but everyone to their own!


It has indeed, really happy with it! Ive got myself into a way that I wont allow myself to refit a part if it looks bad !!

Yeahh.. quite extreme looking tbh, but Ive an idea in my head so that it will tie in with something else lol!

Might have to wet sand and polish the brake booster yet as the paint sort of came out a bit uneven


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#52
Front brake lines plumbed up, thinking Im going to leave the rears until I get the underbody cleaned up first!

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Sorted the exhaust pressure sensor and cooling piping out prior to the engine install, as it would be quite awkward once the engine would be installed, just needs to be wired up then

Made use of an empty paint can and created my own spiral suitable to where I was mounting the sensor etc..

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As Im going to be needing two boost pressure outlets, one for the boost gauge and one for the map sensor for the Digi-Booster VNT controller kit, I decided to make up another outlet from the egr blanking plate.

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New Vibra-Tech Competition mounts fitted, awaiting the engine

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At last!! The engine sitting ready for installing

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Love to see it, Ill be glad getting the engine back in and running, its been a long haul.. think Ill take a few weeks off from the build so I can get my head back in the game, its been touch and go this past while with the amount of work and lacking motivation.

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Engine is now fitted, had to remove the gearbox mount entirely in order to get the engine squared up.

Was tricky as the car is sitting up on blocks and getting the engine tilted and lined up for the mounts was a pain!

Looking well though

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#53
New PAS bottle fitted and hooked up, must say it really does look a lot nicer than the original

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#54
Loving this, great build thread and good to see someone actually putting in the effort to make the car look as good close up as in the photos, and to make it last plenty of years to come.

I have to ask though, was this particular car purchased from a lad in Cheshire who's name is the same as the worst 1.9D fuel pump? Looks a bit like one of his old motors...
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#55
(22-08-2020, 01:27 PM)ekjdm14 Wrote: Loving this, great build thread and good to see someone actually putting in the effort to make the car look as good close up as in the photos, and to make it last plenty of years to come.

I have to ask though, was this particular car purchased from a lad in Cheshire who's name is the same as the worst 1.9D fuel pump? Looks a bit like one of his old motors...


Thanks alot bud, haven’t been updating as much this past while, have loads of work done since, engine is up and running with no problems thank god! Will get all updated soon!

And on that, I’m not too sure actually, I bought it off a guy in Ballymoney, (NI) will be coming 5 years now in October.


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#56
Cracking build thread this is ! Nice to see things being done properly with no bodging. Motivates me to crack on with my car. Top work


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#57
(10-09-2020, 07:40 AM)TommyParker Wrote: Cracking build thread this is ! Nice to see things being done properly with no bodging. Motivates me to crack on with my car. Top work


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Thank you mate, I plan on keeping the car for as long as I can imagine, so doing everything right taking no shortcuts


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Finally getting some time to get up to date on the build, have come a long way since the last update, so picking up where I left off.

Hope yous like the progress

Turbo oil feed / drain lines now plumbed in, I managed to find a flange that was pretty close to what I needed, only needed the mounting holes reemed out a little on one side as they were a little off and boom SUCESS!! ( oil feed and drain holes did line up perfect )

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#58
N75 valve and boost sensor mounted for the Digibooster...

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Couldn’t find any inlet / compressor elbows that suited so went ahead and made up my own to suit the new routing of the intercooler piping

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Air filter fitting in nicely, sitting right above my cold air feed.. pay not attention to the mock up exhaust piece as the bay was getting it tight with soot

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Standard shocks back in ( for now ), new lower arms, drop-links, ball joints and hub carriers painted

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Slam panel painted and ready for bolting on.. this will now allow me to get the intercooler and oil cooler secured now so will be glad to get that job out of the way also!

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Slam panel fitted and both coolers mounted up starting to come together now! Also intercool piping finished, used 2.5” piping from the turbo and 2.75” going into the inlet.

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Drill and grooved disks with brembo pads, should make a little difference in the stopping power hopefully

Managed to get the front callipers re done!

Rears needing done soon, along with making up some new lines to run to the rear also and the brakes should be back!

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Started to put together my custom 2.5” full stainless steel straight through. Starting with the down pipe.

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Forgot to take pics during the making of the down pipe

Anyways... here it is finished and heat wrapped ready for fitting!

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#59
Exhuast is now more less finished, some welding to finish then just deciding on what to put on the end, will probably go for a dummy back box.

Full 2.5” stainless steel from turbo back, should sound nice

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#60
Finally getting round to adding some content again

Made an attack on removing all paint from the shell, thanks to the help of paint stripper !!

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Needs done fully now with 400 to remove any burs from the lower grit used to remove the last few tough parts, hoping to have it painted in the next couple months.

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