Engine mods for gti6 track car

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Engine mods for gti6 track car
#1
So.. I have a gti6. I'm sorting the handling and stopping out first, then want to make it quicker...

What's best upgrades for track use?

I want to take the engine out and rebuild anyway, so what's best?

Low comp forged pistons and rods, for supercharger build, or high comp pistons on throttle bodies and Lairy cams ect??

Any advise or comments appreciated!
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#2
Both this and the suspension/brakes thread depend on how much money you have to play with? People need to know this before they can give you any advice
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#3
No set budget really... 3-4k on engine, 2k on the rest? At a guess, maybe a little more if it's worth it...
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#4
Do the basics, weight loss, cage, seats, harnesses, tyres, wheels, brakes, diff, good handling modifications then think about power. It's actually not that important if it weighs 950kg
P1 XSi track car
2.4 LWB T4
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#5
Are the standard gearboxes reliable enough? Just the diff I need to uprate?
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#6
A limited slip diff is more important than 70bhp more. It's nuts how much quicker it is.

Yeah box is fine, you could go to a 4.4 5 speed hybrid instead but you lose motorway cruising (5 speed is 7kg lighter though). I've had both, not decided which I prefer
P1 XSi track car
2.4 LWB T4
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#7
Engine wise you have either new low boost/used high boost setup or TB's and cams (depends which youd prefer) 
Suspension wise youd want Bilstein B8s and 30mm springs
Refurbed rear axle with upgraded bars
Brakes wise - id go for some nice 4 pots with some decent pads and discs
Loads of info on this forum  on all of the above buddy Smile
Although I wouldnt sink a lot of money into an old car like a 306, but each to their own and I could see why someone would want to Smile
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#8
Think the 4.4 was worth maybe 3mph on combe main straight. You gain steering lock too if you change the pas ram

B8s and eibach are too soft for a proper track car. Decent coil overs, more camber / caster depending on which diff and tyres

My car has set me back 3k but it has only very mild engine mods (it's a gti6)
P1 XSi track car
2.4 LWB T4
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#9
As above, you'll get more from suspension (good stuff not Gaz etc), Springs, Torsion and Roll bars, Neg camber up front, Plate Diff and some instruction on track than 250bhp going quick on the straight's as spending 3 to 4k on the engine won;t get much at all.
Overall Road Going Production Class Winner at BARC Gurston Down Speed Hillclimb 2012, 2013 & 2014 With a class record along the way (For a while), Taking 2nd place will be Ian Redding's 306 GTi
2016 Castle Combe GT championship class winner
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#10
(11-10-2015, 04:32 PM)adam b Wrote: Think the 4.4 was worth maybe 3mph on combe main straight. You gain steering lock too if you change the pas ram

B8s and eibach are too soft for a proper track car. Decent coil overs, more camber / caster depending on which diff and tyres

My car has set me back 3k but it has only very mild engine mods (it's a gti6)

I'm running b8s & Eibachs on the front of mine at Combe & can't fault them ?
I'm told the rear suspension setup is just as important on 306s ?
The Plate diff I agree from Miles made the biggest difference .
Never get into 6th on track days ...
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#11
spend £50 on some track tuition with the std car would be money well spent
then that will give you an idea of what you would like to improve in the car

https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/
GTI6 Info

Don’t drive faster than your guardian angel can fly.

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#12
Yeah do trackday instead of throwing money at it straight away.obviously give it a good service before going out.
[Image: Cn91r40h.jpg] 
Astor 6 Fast road/track project
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#13
Without trying to sound like im echoing the others if a track car is your ultimate goal but you're fairly new to it all then would stick with the stock car and work on the skill before becoming the guy with all the gear but no idea.
The gti6 is by no means bad in stock form and with a couple of light breathing mods it'll still go well. the brakes and suspension are sufficient but just make sure theyre not tired from years taking their toll.

Power isn't everything as i've come to realize recently, I kept thinking I need more power and more stuff! but then I was taken out in a £350 118hp puma with ta technix coilovers and some plywood stuck to the front which pulled a 47 second lap against my best of 51 in a car with maybe 40 more hp and gaz coilovers.
Even on track many of us here with stock(ish) cars will find ourselves stuck behind someone in a 200hp+ Subaru or whatever which is holding us up because they cant drive but refuse to let us past out of their own pride or refusal to be butthurt
[Image: mcetg0.png]

ZR VVC Homebrew mapping project: http://306oc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?tid=14360
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#14
Here here!

My best upgrade was a new seat so that I didn't have to hold on so much and could concentrate on driving instead :-)
Tinkerer of 306gti6 trackday racer, less stuff, more hard, more umpf, more stop.
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#15
Only put a cone air filter on our engine, and most people on here said it look fairly quick so can't go wrong with just a filter mate Smile
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#16
for filter, may i recommend a shielded one,

use the stock cold air intake, as a bogstandard cone type will be pulling in warm engine bay air. As i found out, the 306 front end is packed, and trying to route a cold air intake to the lower bumper is near on impossible without squishing it.

You can either heat the stock cold air intake and bend it so it sits on top of the slam panel, but below the bonnet, scooping up the air that is coming into the gap, or drill the the panel with lots of holes, its upto you. I have just an enclosed air filter, and it has made a bit of a difference, esp as my old filter was prob clogged a little.

There is no replacement for displacement, well there is if you cant drive for shite...... Skill is always more important than power. If you cant get consistent good lap times, there is no point spending tons on BHP. when improving your own skill will better serve you throughout any racing hobby/career.

Wish you all the best, and hope to see your race car soon Smile
Not always Grumpy!!
306 Cabby SE, 2.0l 16v 
To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be!

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#17
We cut the headlight out and had a shielded enclosed bit Tongue
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#18
there you go then, problem solved Smile , i want a pair of morettes, and have the outer N/S as my cold air intake.

seen that done before, and i think it looks awesome.
Not always Grumpy!!
306 Cabby SE, 2.0l 16v 
To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be!

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#19
I use the n/s inner to mine. Outer is easier to find new lamps than inner...
P1 XSi track car
2.4 LWB T4
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#20
Thanks for the info Smile i will remember that if/when i get my morettes. Smile
Not always Grumpy!!
306 Cabby SE, 2.0l 16v 
To the optimist, the glass is half full. To the pessimist, the glass is half empty. To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be!

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