GT2052s Dturbo

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GT2052s Dturbo
#61
Yeh thats half the issue!! No one calibrates properly!!!! If ypure paying however much for a dyno run, IMHO they should be measuring with a laser tach...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
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#62
Problem with my LDA, if you look at it laying flat the slope is very steep, so its nothing nothing the bang all the fuel in one lump, ok for getting no smoke off boost but is rubbish for anything else.
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#63
This is why I've never been a massive fan of sharp LDA pins, it needs to be smooth all the way so it adds the fuel progressively...

Or as I do, just learn to control your right foot, unless you have a MAF meter and an ECU to know what's going on, you'll never really find anything mechanical that can control the IQ precisely enough... Otherwise you end up either with the pin jamming from too much governor pressure etc... My lda system is completely stock and I've really not had any issues, yes if you mash your foot into the shag pile at 2k then you will kill everyone behind you, but if you know how to drive your car, you can feel if its blowing black just by the note, feel and pedal position...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
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#64
(02-02-2013, 09:32 PM)Ruan Wrote: This is why I've never been a massive fan of sharp LDA pins, it needs to be smooth all the way so it adds the fuel progressively...

Or as I do, just learn to control your right foot, unless you have a MAF meter and an ECU to know what's going on, you'll never really find anything mechanical that can control the IQ precisely enough... Otherwise you end up either with the pin jamming from too much governor pressure etc... My lda system is completely stock and I've really not had any issues, yes if you mash your foot into the shag pile at 2k then you will kill everyone behind you, but if you know how to drive your car, you can feel if its blowing black just by the note, feel and pedal position...


Completely agree, but I don't trust the dyno operator to be so careful. I usually run low preload on the lda spring, but I whacked it up and turned down the max fuel to limit EGT's, it barely smoked, little puff before full boost then clean. It's so much better on the road with a proper tune than what that graph shows, and it definatly has more power than that on the road with a colder intercooler. But that's to be expected with TMIC.

Just realised, my graph says 306 GTI, I hope it wasn't run on GTI calibrations because it will be well off, surely?
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#65
Yeh, very well could be, 6th in a GTi is like 4th in a DT.... Which would explain a lot, although did he take it to the recline? The graph would suggest its roughly right though as it stops at 4950rpm...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
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#66
No rev counter so no idea, did sound seriously high though haha.
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#67
Make sure when you take it back that you get them to laser tacho it off teh crank... Or off a pump pulley and just double the figure.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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#68
Just looked again, if your pump was forwards a spline at those sorts IQs, you'd actually make way more power, since you can have the max fuel screw out more, you'd be tensioning the governor more, the reason the power drops SO badly is nothing to do with the turbo, that's all down to the fact you're placing next to no tension on the governor spring, therefore the flyweights are pushing the levers back stupidly easily...

I wouldn't expect to see the *power* drop off anything like as soon as that, you can even see how quick the turbo comes in at 2400rpm, but as soon as the party starts, the governor is cutting the fuel back and the party is over - that's all by around 3300rpm!!!

If the governor stayed put and allowed the fuel all the way, that'd produce one of the best power curves ever, the torque comes in at 2.5k and would probably stay until 3.5k, and the power levelling off until 4.5k... As you can see, this involves no more fuel at all, just the same total IQ staying until higher in the RPMs...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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#69
So adjust the throttle forward a spline then use the max fuel to bring the idle back up?
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#70
Other way, you'd need to screw out the max fuel screw, and bring the idle down, so that you're placing more tension on the spring at full throttle...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
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#71
o ok, will have a go when I get chance.
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#72
Had a play with the pump tonight, adjusted the cradle forward a spline and adjusted idle to suit etc. And OMG the throttle response is epic, it actually boosted slightly higher so I now need to spend time tuning it up again nicely. Just need to get rid of this LDA pin for something a bit more suitable.
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#73
Really like this car and the methodical approach you have taken to it, well done chap!!

Also, where did you get the mold from to put the stereo there?
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#74
(09-02-2013, 05:44 PM)londondan86 Wrote: Really like this car and the methodical approach you have taken to it, well done chap!!

Also, where did you get the mold from to put the stereo there?

There's no mould, just used a hacksaw to make the pocket wider.

Thanks Smile
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#75
Interesting results.. i've still not had a decent day to hoon the motor and tune it properly. Needs more fuel I think though, seems to be wastegated at a nice 20psi but feels a bit breathy low down, definitely needs more throttle response as the thing spools so easily when the throttles planted, just part throttle is a bit boring
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#76
(09-02-2013, 05:44 PM)londondan86 Wrote: Really like this car and the methodical approach you have taken to it, well done chap!!

Also, where did you get the mold from to put the stereo there?

You can buy a sinlge din gauge holder on ebay I bout mine for 12 I think

Seeing this car in the flesh was spot on is the cleanest dt ive seen in a long time Smile
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#77
(09-02-2013, 08:03 PM)cwspellowe Wrote: Interesting results.. i've still not had a decent day to hoon the motor and tune it properly. Needs more fuel I think though, seems to be wastegated at a nice 20psi but feels a bit breathy low down, definitely needs more throttle response as the thing spools so easily when the throttles planted, just part throttle is a bit boring

What LDA pin do you have, and how much preload is on the spring?

The results are a bit meaningless, heat soak and a badly tuned pump made it low, as I've now realised!

(09-02-2013, 08:36 PM)sam Wrote:
(09-02-2013, 05:44 PM)londondan86 Wrote: Really like this car and the methodical approach you have taken to it, well done chap!!

Also, where did you get the mold from to put the stereo there?

You can buy a sinlge din gauge holder on ebay I bout mine for 12 I think

Seeing this car in the flesh was spot on is the cleanest dt ive seen in a long time Smile

Thanks Smile.
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#78
This project will slow down quite a bit now, apparently having a house and food is more important than the 306 Sad

I have got a few things that are going to be happening in the very near future though, got a pump from Sam, and another donor pump with a 10mm head and also got some different DV's. Also doing a few more things in regards to the pump to see if there are any other improvements to make.

The wheels are going, they are just too heavy mainly, didn't think I would notice but I really do, so picking up some mega common Pro race 1.2's tomorrow morning.
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#79
yeah, join the pro race club, they are pretty light though so win win Smile
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#80
Well the SP's have got to be 12/13kg with no tyre, I think the pro race are less than 8 without tyre.
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#81
yeah something like that, i was amazed at the difference when in comparison with a cyclone
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#82
1.2's ftw got to get them in white though Big Grin
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#83
C5s for the win!! 4.7kg Tongue
Wishes for more power...
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#84
Nah would have them in silver if I had a choice, white gets dirty as soon as I leave my driveway!

I like C5 alloy steelies, but made of cheese and the roads round here would destroy them!
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#85
Not a fan of black cars with black wheels, but I actually quite like it now.. Would still be better silver though.

[Image: a0e69c78-576f-44cc-9071-a08f8e8539a9.jpg]

Rubbish picture, its not clean enough to deserve proper pictures being taken Smile
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#86
All you nees now is a ph1 front end and a green bonnet ad itll be like mine was lmao does look good though chap have you built the 10mm pump yet?
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#87
Would love to phase 1 it, but I don't like doing anything that includes removing/re fitting body panels because I am rubbish at it!

Your old pump is sat on the work bench next to the 10mm donor pump, hopefully Sunday it will be built up. Not sure how long it will take though..
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#88
Thinking of getting a IPP gauge, can anyone point me in the right direction? I don't know what's the deal with this pump, but it will not rev to 5k without a real struggle. Might fit my spare pump as it is and see if there's any improvement..
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#89
you need a high pressure mechanical gauge like oil pressure.

ive got a racetech one running off an adaptor on the fuel in banjo, dont think its a good idea to start drilling holes into a fuel pump, especially when you see what sort of pressures are going on inside lol
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#90
Also not sure if I have a boost leak, it will boost to what I want it to by adjusting the controller, but I have the fuelling turned way down to stop it smoking.

Giving me headache!
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