Dr_Jekyll & Mr_Hyde Estate Project

[dr_jekyll]

Well last night i gave the engine the old heave ho after getting sick of looking at it. Dont feel the engines gonna tay looking this pretty with all the auxiliaries re-attatched [emoji25] realised i forgot to paint tge brake servo too so will be masking tge bay off and just giving it a brush up

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[Frosty]

Good work Justin, it's looking a very tidy job!

[Piggy]

Tidy job

[dr_jekyll]

Cheers guys. Got the new nissens rad, intercooler pipework and few other bits home tonight so hopping to really attack it these next two days. Gotta try aim to get the wings back on too and the slam panel sprayed up

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[DeeTurbo]

Awesome work.

[dr_jekyll]

Mocked the front back on last night. Certianly makes the car feel messy again [emoji24] got to get the clutch cable in tonight and try figure out a route for the oil return on the turbo. Due to how close it sits to the gearbox mount top plate it has to come straight out of the turbo at 90 degree... Not the best idea for maximum flow

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[dr_jekyll]

Ok, finally drawing this project to a close. Ended up having to strip the gearbox mount all back of due to missing out the donut bush from the vibratech. Gave mr a good chance tho to get this oil return sorted.
Even with the 90 degree an fitted i was still struggerling for room against the top plate for the gearbox mount. Ended up having to cut the top plate. Still maintained as much of the plate as i phisically could and kept all four mounting points hoping that its still rigid enough to add the bracing support to that mount.


Done the usual tarty bits and sprayed all the slam panel up to match the bay. Had all the pipe work on and test fitted leaving only the matrix pipes to sort. Finally located a fuse box and just pretty much got some small wiring repairs and mods to do

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[Piggy]

Looking really smart

[Frosty]

Great work justin, looking pretty smart. Hopefully not too long before a fire up?

[dr_jekyll]

Great work justin, looking pretty smart. Hopefully not too long before a fire up?

Liturally the alternator lead and fuse box.. Then first fire up.
Well thats if its safe to start her up briefly without coolant? Got a single matrix pipe left to accommodate behind the turbo still and thermostat needed.

Cheers guys. Ngl really feel like i bit off more than i could chew but just happy to see it coming together

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[Poodle]

Starting briefly without coolant is fine, just don't run it for more than a minute or so.

[Frosty]

Yeah as poodle said it won't hurt to run it for a short while without coolant just to make sure it lives.

[Danny Wideboy]

Looks damn good man.

[dr_jekyll]

No starty.
Gonna create a separate thread to try find out why

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[Piggy]

Meh. These things happen mate.
My first start with the 16v resulted in a full engine rebuild.... So just a ECU fault is no biggy

[dr_jekyll]

Meh. These things happen mate.
My first start with the 16v resulted in a full engine rebuild.... So just a ECU fault is no biggy

Was just a little bit heart sinking..

On the plus side the ecu arrived today after only ordering it friday! Big thank you to Hdi-Tuning for the quick turn around.



And to top it off shes alive!!!!!!!
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bl6L8N3ghHY/...r1mpzryad2

Had to have a fiddle quickly and turns out the excessively high idle was simply caused by an over tight cable. Also missing an intercooler pipe too making her louder.

Ngl but such a good feeling to hear this start, first engine transplant, first head fitting, first timing by myself. Its nice to feel a little confidence again!!

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[dr_jekyll]

Few more tidying jobs done today. Sprayed the front end of the car as the primers been doing my nut in
Ngl, absolutley love the contrast of the graffati paint against the astor. I deeply feel had i committed to the kingfisher i would have been severely disappointed with the end result
gotta add another shot of the wench too


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[Uberderv]

Great job mate, give yourself a big pat on the back from me

[Eeyore]

looks much better now its all one colour!

[dr_jekyll]

Cars been back on the road few weeks now. Passed its mot thank god! Just slowly addressing some teething issues ive had along the way.
Had some gear linkage issues causing problems coming out of 4tu and 5th that seem to have cleared up.
Mild weep on the lower rad pipe thats just gonna have a new pipe slung on it.
And the lower engine mount deciding to slot itself out.

Ended up running a crude emp gauge on the turbo to set the vanes pretty open to run the car back in gently.
Had kinda hoped to be running it in straight on the better map ive got but seems both 1.6 hdi fps i had didnt want to play ball. Ended up settling for my old stage 2 map just to get the car going which tbf prob isnt the worlds worst idea to get the clutch bed in. Had a friend send me a known working fps so as soon as my new gauges arrive from the state's will ve mapping the car up. Decided to go for glowshifts as it was one of few company's i could find that actually did a dedicated emp gauge in 52mm. will be getting matching metal monkey dials for the heater and clocks made up soon.
After the car passed its mot decided to treat it to some new wheels nothing too fancy, xxr 527. 8.25j et0. Always had a soft spot for these wheels so figured why not? seems running in ive also come across another issue i didnt expect to. Lower engine mount has decided to oval the hole. Will have a thick washer machined to be welded to the subframe tip and bottom to prevent this again and a new high tensile bolt.
Finally just a piss around with some expensive aluminium duct tape borrowed from work to give the fiberglass bonnet a minimal heat protection (if any, still looks cool tho)

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[dr_jekyll]

Car seems to trip out every now and again and flags one of two faults.
P0230
P0190
Heard some people suggest that it could be low pressure pump dying. Would like to think its not the hp pump with how intermitten this is. Happens less then once a week when ragged on a cold morning. Opinions?

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[Magenta Sunset]

from goolie
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0230
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p01...ahl-walker
hope that helps

[dr_jekyll]

from goolie
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0230
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p01...ahl-walker
hope that helps

Cheers, had a little look and from what i gather its either fpr or intank pump, intake was replaced 5ish years ago but has been heavily abused. Got a spare fpr in another pump so will try that first

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[Magenta Sunset]

from goolie
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0230
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p01...ahl-walker
hope that helps

Cheers, had a little look and from what i gather its either fpr or intank pump, intake was replaced 5ish years ago but has been heavily abused. Got a spare fpr in another pump so will try that first

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do one change at a time, then recheck for fault codes.

[Ruan]

P0230 and P1114 could be either in tank or HP pump.

If you're demanding loads of power at lower RPM and it suddenly cuts, I'd expect it is the HP pump. Cheapest way to check is to put a gauge on the inlet to the HP pump and see whether the pressure is dropping under load. If it's cutting out at high RPM, I'd bet it's the tank pump.

If it randomly cuts out under light acceleration or at higher RPM, that's probably the LP in tank pump.

See if you can get the freeze frame data of when the faults are logged, if it's had the railpressure upped significantly in the map, can either drop the requested pressure (and drop the fuel quantity a little too to stop it cutting) or depending on whether the maximum deviation before fault thresholds have been changed, can adjust those to make it a little more tolerant of slight RP slips away from target.

[dr_jekyll]

P0230 and P1114 could be either in tank or HP pump.

If you're demanding loads of power at lower RPM and it suddenly cuts, I'd expect it is the HP pump. Cheapest way to check is to put a gauge on the inlet to the HP pump and see whether the pressure is dropping under load. If it's cutting out at high RPM, I'd bet it's the tank pump.

If it randomly cuts out under light acceleration or at higher RPM, that's probably the LP in tank pump.

See if you can get the freeze frame data of when the faults are logged, if it's had the railpressure upped significantly in the map, can either drop the requested pressure (and drop the fuel quantity a little too to stop it cutting) or depending on whether the maximum deviation before fault thresholds have been changed, can adjust those to make it a little more tolerant of slight RP slips away from target.

She's not actually cutting out. Just goes into limp mode and keeps driving. The only correlation I've noticed is its always a cold morning when it happens. Assuming colder, denser increases the demand for fuel.
If i allow the car to warm up correctly it dosnt even happen.

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[dr_jekyll]

Been a while yet again.

Still havnt sorted the fault code issue. Still very rarely does it and only does it when engines cold. Friend of mine has suggested that the hp pump could be worn and it takes warmth in the pump to reduce tolerances to a level its happy to be ragged.. Quiet feasible i think so basically just stopped hooning from cold [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

Finally got my exhaust temp and back pressure gauges fitted aswell as a dedicated diesel boost gauge. Copper work looks more like it belongs on a hillbillys still. Took the opportunity to sort some piss poor wiring out behind the dash aswell so thats all now nicley soldered and heat shrinked.

Figures gathered were pretty reassuring too after being scare mungered by a few individuals to the dangers of mech vnt. Cruising at 60mph temp stays at a solid 300 deg c generating 7psi boost with 10psi back pressure. Actuator has been tweaked to open the vanes at 18psi giving a max peak of 30psi back pressure and a spike fluctuation of 20psi boost, 38psi back pressure which is well within the 60psi danger zone i was advised. Absolutely hooning im able to bring the gas temp upto 800 deg c rapidly but thats foot flat like a mad man.

Got that lower leaky rad pipe changed too. Safe to say it was pretty obv why it was leaking, was litturally just scrimping towards the end of the build.


Managed to get a wheep bearing to give up after a few launches aswell

And so to my most recent problem. Been having issues with the gearbox bracket for the turbo. Had it fail once, not surprised at all, was an absolute lash up in situe to get the car driving.

Gtound all the shit mig out and sat at work tiging the bracket back up. Ended up triangulating it for extra strength
After this the two m6 bolts that it was originally designed for failed. wasnt surprised, poor choice of mounting point and used stainless m6's like an absolute fool. Ive now further beefed up the bracket to add an additional mounting point. Further triangulated the frame and used high tensile bolts on all fixing points.

Its been suggested that heat expansion and vibration is the primary cause of this failing and that i should fit a flexi pre turbo after the collector in the manifold. Now ive never heard of a flexi in a manifold so im very sceptical atm of this idea and concerned it may not hold the temp and pressure.. Opinions???

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[Stef205]

nice to see your making good progress with the old setup. Tbh that turbo bracket was only temporary but glad your on top of things.

[dr_jekyll]

nice to see your making good progress with the old setup. Tbh that turbo bracket was only temporary but glad your on top of things.

Cheers dude. Put a post up in a sec, liturally just finished of fabricating a new bracket lmao

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---

Ok,
So after speaking to a few people and researching today it seems the two pressing issues are thermal expansion and vibration.
Vibration of the turbo in my eyes would be best to strap the turbo down hard but then allowing it to move with heat seems a demanding issue. Speaking to sir lobb, he suggested using rose joints to take the weight of the turbo whilst also allowing movment as the manifold heats and expands. Looked into this concept and surley enough found cars using it.

Being completely impatient i had a crack at making a new bracket tonight. Boss has been an absolutely top bloke and allowed me to use materials and the tig to fab the new bracket. Anyway heres what i came up with. Im hoping it supports the weight of the turbo whilst allowing the movment needed.



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[Uberderv]

Top work dude