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(18-03-2017, 08:27 AM)dr_jekyll Wrote: (18-03-2017, 08:23 AM)Matt-Rallye Wrote: Thats one heck of a spec sheet!
Intercooler fitment looks much neater and less gap between intercooler & rad should reduce any air stall between the two, fairplay fella lots of work gone into this! Got around 5/10mm gap now. Was nearly 2 inch before [SEE-NO-EVIL MONKEY] cheers, most people just see the scruffy paint and think what the hell
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Isnt that the purpose of the scruffy paint?
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True! Nice when its underestimated
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Give you cylinder head a decent clean chap
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(18-03-2017, 09:02 AM)zx_volcane Wrote: Give you cylinder head a decent clean chap Hides under a cover [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY] tbh i want a new low mileage lump for her to start a fresh and take more pride in it. These engines been so abused theres no saving it tbh
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find some one with a injector puller set, my mate has just purchased a air hammer injector/glow plug removing kit and its unreal!
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(19-03-2017, 11:54 AM)allye Wrote: find some one with a injector puller set, my mate has just purchased a air hammer injector/glow plug removing kit and its unreal! Might end up having to pay a garage to do it. Biggest fear is the injector snapping off
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Bit of a small update. Still rolling around with odd injectors but has behaved on them.
The stud that was made at work surprise surprise snapped. Ended up banging a torx down the inside to extract the stud which came out alright.
Cleared the hole with an m10 tap again and thread seemed perfectly fine so jumped on my own suggestion of the vw step sted.
Been fitted just over a week now and been pushing the car to its limits to try get it to pop the stud but appears to finally be a nice strong solution to what sounds like a reasonably common issue.
Got the mocal thermostatic cooler plumbed up now but not driven it yet. Decided to go for a stubby renualt filter as i thought i would have clearance issues with the rad... well i was wrong [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]
im gonna run it for 4/5k then go back to the standard filter. Dumped new oil in her tho it was only less then 1k old because whats the point in re-using old oil? Hopefully flushed some of the deposits out of her.
Decided to finally do the belt again after a neighbour complained about the "dead cat" under my bonnet.. still had more life in it yet in my eyes [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]
Tended to the rust i unearther when i moved the ecu. Slapped some krust on it and a coat of primer and went nuts. Far from perfect in my eyes but its as good as its gonna get without pulling the engine out to do it all
correctly
Got a similar scenario on the drivers side tho seems very minor in comparison. Still a few more cans and that side will be touched up to.
Any of you eagle eyed folk may have noticed ive added more of the contersunk bolts on the grille and cover too. Decided to ditch the spikes on the cover for a little bit of uniformity as im running the counter sinks in as many visual places as i can
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looking good fella. going to start mine soon now the weathers a bit better.
Whats next for the bay?
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(30-03-2017, 08:17 AM)Leemus Wrote: looking good fella. going to start mine soon now the weathers a bit better.
Whats next for the bay? Im starting to get stuck [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY] rad would be nice to delete the expansion bottle and start looking at an fittings for the fuel system. Painted block tho still dont have anywhere to pull it out
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sweet!im hopefully buying some parts for this next month. you worked out what hoses you need yet?
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(31-03-2017, 04:15 AM)Leemus Wrote: sweet!im hopefully buying some parts for this next month. you worked out what hoses you need yet? Last on my list really so if someone works it for me will be grateful [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY][FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]
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18-04-2017, 11:08 PM
(This post was last modified: 18-04-2017, 11:16 PM by dr_jekyll.)
Began doing some body work parts at long last.
Rear badge had cracked out again from where i bodged it over two years ago. Desided to chissel the bugger out and start a fresh. Originally i had just filled over the paint which was my down fall :/ took it back to bare metal and used the chisel to spike the shit out of the metal for some extra "grab". Decuded to smooth that daft key hole in the boot off too. Not sure if they actually work but my key has never fit it.
Had to do similar on the original roof bar holes too.
Had the wheels booked in for spraying. Before they went off they needed some minor repairs to the taper seats. The machinist at work made me the 60 degree taper drill for them.
One of them was also kerbed months ago. I hid it with some filler but decided to get a weld in there.
So now there ready to go off for sandblasting and spraying (with two pack).
New wheel bolts too just because im a whore
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On another note the turbos gotten really bad. Now bought another unit to hopefully do a quick change over. New units cost £20 with a chra with excessive play.
Im unsure what to do chra wise. The last unit i rebuilt with a £20 chinese kit lasted just over a year.
Im tempted to buy a pre made chra but its finding a good quality unit. Ive gound some Melett which claim to be good quality unlike those chinese one.
Ive also found an apparent uk based company that makes hybrid chra's
Looking at it i almost wanna say it sounds too good to be true Melett claim to be OEM quality for £172 delivered where as turborebuild.co.uk claim an uprated chra for only £230..
Kinda stuck here
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Think piggy had a thread/discussion on chra's or someone else about balancing, worth a search.
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(19-04-2017, 09:51 AM)tigerstyle Wrote: Think piggy had a thread/discussion on chra's or someone else about balancing, worth a search. Cheers will take a peek
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Turbos gone [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY][FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY][FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]
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For parts. Breaking
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Really?
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On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
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Seems a big shame to break this with all the time and money youve put into it, going to take you ages to do a full parts list aha
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Well i guess shes going no where...
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Been a fair amount going on with the old gal. Nearly had had enough of it all after blowing another gt2052s
Fitted the new chra and straight off she was leaking boost like hell from the manifold meaning it all needed to come apart again.. kinda list intrest and began hotding stainless for a relocation mani
again lost faith. To top it off one of my gf's neighbours finally managed to bully me into fitting a silencer, which makes the car just too quiet for my liking.
The only thing that seems to have brought the hype back is the rayvern hydro kit. Always wanted one and for 650 i couldnt say no! Got there and straight away realised the rear rams were shot but managed to haggle down to 500 so a buy was done.
Turns out rayverns just over an hour away so popped to see him and allowed him to give them the once over. Turns out i was missing a coil from the pump and 4 coil plugs. The two rear rams required only come to £85 each with his own custom poly ends.
Stripped the spring box down today and when i pop over to see him shall allow him to inspect those rams too
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Intriged by the hydro kit seems diffrent
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(29-06-2017, 09:20 PM)bashbarnard Wrote: Intriged by the hydro kit seems diffrent
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Chris tyres and lee have already done it but dont believe theres an estate in the uk with active suspension. Know of an air riden one in poland and thats it
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how does it work on a torsion bar system then??
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(30-06-2017, 09:48 AM)welshpug Wrote: how does it work on a torsion bar system then?? Basically replace the shock absorbers with rams and grind the splines off. Gonna run the torsion bars temp splined till i know the systems good
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Just got back from another trip to rays after collecting the new rear rams. Guys liturally sound as and luckily todays trip has finished the final pieces of the puzzle for the kit. Just gotta make a simple switch box and its done.
struck a bargin of the day aswell. In desperate need of doing a rad flush this week due to running pure water for too long. Shes looking abit rusty. Got all the flush and anti freeze to sort it and was offered a brand new boxed nissens rad by ashley jones today for a £10... be rude not to right?
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mine air not hydros btw when u grind the splines off only grind one end of them. otherwise they will be spinning around loosely. if u just do one end of each they will be held in place but still about to spin at one end. well I'm pretty sure thats how you are meant to do it. i no there is a estate in belgium on air i think but haven't seen another 306 other than chris's on hydros
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(01-07-2017, 01:46 PM)Leemus Wrote: mine air not hydros btw when u grind the splines off only grind one end of them. otherwise they will be spinning around loosely. if u just do one end of each they will be held in place but still about to spin at one end. well I'm pretty sure thats how you are meant to do it. i no there is a estate in belgium on air i think but haven't seen another 306 other than chris's on hydros Always thought you were hydro!
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rear window slot for switch box?
It goes, it stops (as reqd).
Hate Housework!
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(01-07-2017, 04:36 PM)Magenta Sunset Wrote: rear window slot for switch box? Someone on the same wave lentgh!
Was my original thought as im not wanting big switches on show. Do actually have working elec rears tho. Got a ph1 center console tray so cant hide it in rhe center and refuse to chop it up as its the only one ive ever seen with no key pad.
Been thinking about using the ash tray just behide the rear window switches and fitting a stainless plate inside with the two momentary switches (mom/off/mom) so it can just be closed up and hidden.
Hardest thing to hide will be the iscolator for the system. Need it in plain reach, only thought so far is under my bucket seat.
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