Dr_Jekyll & Mr_Hyde Estate Project

[dr_jekyll]

recently fitted an Audi straight through stainless box in the middle of a no silencer exhaust on a 300 TDi 90, it sounded raspy and a bit shit beforehand, wasn't a big box but its taken most of the rasp out and you can now actually hear the Turbo and it spools up harder low down.

Will it make a diffrence to deadening where its placed? Was gonna go for rear fitment.
And perforated straight gonna be best for flow then?

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[welshpug]

yep that's basically what it was, in a slightly odd triangle shape, it came off an A4 I think.

placement will make a difference to the effect, but you have packaging constraints to consider as well, just sticking it where the rear silencer would be the simplest thing for you most likely, and have the most effect I think as it wont have another long section of pipe to make noise in again.

we stuck it in the middle on the 90 as the rear end is all bends and awkward shapes, though the aftermarket pipes I've seen for the TD5's do use an 8" long box on the tailpipe.

[dr_jekyll]

yep that's basically what it was, in a slightly odd triangle shape, it came off an A4 I think.

placement will make a difference to the effect, but you have packaging constraints to consider as well, just sticking it where the rear silencer would be the simplest thing for you most likely, and have the most effect I think as it wont have another long section of pipe to make noise in again.

we stuck it in the middle on the 90 as the rear end is all bends and awkward shapes, though the aftermarket pipes I've seen for the TD5's do use an 8" long box on the tailpipe.

Got 22" to play with in the back, perks to the flat estate boot floor. May look at that then as the equivilent straight perforated box compared to the other two i was looking at was £50 cheaper. Just need to make sure its decent.
Was a bit of method behind the exhaust tip to try cut down the sound. Idea called the leguna seca exhaust tip named after the track because of its harsh noise limits. Basically 90 at the end was sposed to help reduce noise tho i may have got 60° instead

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[Eeyore]

Congrats on the upcoming PFC feature.

[dr_jekyll]

Congrats on the upcoming PFC feature.

Cheers fella. News came as a shock this afternoon. Last i spoke to simon col he was saying it would be a small 1/2 pages at expo. Then for him to drop that its in the next issue, 5 pages blew me away!

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[dr_jekyll]

You are going to have a right lol with that groupA fork bush - no word of a lie with one fitted I couldn't see below 3k rpm as my eyeballs were vibrating that much


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You sir were not pulling my leg!
Only got the top and gear box mount fitted atm. Decided to take her for a spin to see if i had the driveshaft issues i feared (luckily not!) and had the slag rattle the change from my pockets! Never seen my dash vibrate so much and its still gonna get worse [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]

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[dr_jekyll]

Ok so a quick little right up before i go into work.
Noticed theres not alot of comparative info for the vibra hardwear.
So construction wise the mount still fix's to the body the same but where the mount fixes to the engine bracket the threads been enlargened.

So im unsure what vibra expect you to do with the engine buffers etc as these bushes are so stiff i dare say you could get away with not using them. But decided best not change up too much and drilled the buffer to suit the mount

Now with this the nut that tightened up onto the mount and centralised it with the insert is redundant. Im not sure if this is intentional of vibra as theres some slop between the thread and mount bracket. All they supply is a nylon lock nut and washer :/ this also brings me to the last piece of redundant hardwear, the "anti lift" buffer. Again im sure it isnt needed but for peace of mind im taking it into work to drill and tap it larger. Not sure if theres enough meat to do it but shall find out.

Gear box mount is a nice simple fit. New design does away with the need for the tube insert
they also supply you with two new 17mm nuts that insert into the bush to centralise it to the body work. Found it a little bit of a pig to fit as needed to use a podge bar to push the bush in the correct spot to screw the inserts down but all in all not bad

Managed to get one of the wishbones on to and now taking a coilover to work to lathe the bushing i require. Also gonna make a tool up tonight so i can pull the lower bush in without removing the bracket and finally gonna weld the stud conversion into my spacers after finding one of the threads was pulling out.
Fairly productive day. Time for a 12hr night shift [VICTORY HAND]

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[dr_jekyll]

Ok so works slow as.. been here 3hrs and sorted all the little jobs i had [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]

Managed to sort the "anti lift" engine buffer. Just simply drilled and tapped it out to m12 to suit the mount

Stripped one of the coilovers down to make sure she wasnt siezed and give her a good clean
Welded the studs into my wheel spacer for peace of mind
And made the puller for the lower engine mount so i can fit it in place and be lazy
Just gotta mellow till the end of the shift and get some sleep to get back on it before work again tommorow

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[bashbarnard]

Hows the wheels gonna sit of the spacer square now there are welds over it man?


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[welshpug]

ideal way to make the base of the studs brittle..

[dr_jekyll]

ideal way to make the base of the studs brittle..

Bad idea im guessing? Didnt even think about it tbh. Did it on a low ampage, never got red and allowed to cool down in its own time but guessing ita fooked?

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Hmmm just had a read up and very mixed views on ut but dont think im happy to risk. Got a set of 20mm slip ons and longer bolts i shall use for now until i can get new spacers

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[dr_jekyll]

Took your advice and ditched the spacers for now to refit my 20mm untill i can afford some bolt on 30mm again. Offset looks weak as now [LOUDLY CRYING FACE]
Got one side of the car done now. My puller completley failed for tye lower mount.. seems the housings gonna need to be heated to press it so will by another and carry on using the p.flex for now with the bbm fork mount.

Got the "anti lift" buffer back in too

So thats another job jobbed.

Just need to sort the other wishbone out tommorow and jobs a good'n

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[Jonny81191]

You don't have to heat the housing for lower mounts, but you will need a press to get it in.

[dr_jekyll]

You don't have to heat the housing for lower mounts, but you will need a press to get it in.

Was trying a homade puller but just wasnt man enough and wouldnt pull it straight. For now the powerflex will do till it warms up abit. Freezing my arse off trying to squeeze this inbetween my night shifts. Feel like im going insane [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]

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[dr_jekyll]

Right so after realising i messed that spacer up the other night ive decided to do the cheap skate option and re-drill and tap the holes. Was a pretty clear cut choice, £15 tap vs £130 spacers.
Easiest way to rework them was to follow the original 10.75mm holes from the back (m12x1.25 tapping drill) so first had to grind the studs off to fit the spacer into a machine vice.
After that chucked them in the machine vice and centered the 10.75mm upto the back of the original hole and used it as a guide hole to dimple the back of the studs. Im able to do this as the 30mm spacers have only been tapped 15mm deep leaving 15mm of the original 10.75 mm hole. This will come into play later as i can cut the thread deeper.

Ok so once i had dimpled the backs of the studs i used that as a center point to send a pilot drill through.

Once piloted i sent the 10.75 through to drill the stud out. After this i needed to face off the welds in the lathe.

Decided it was nessacary to take a 0.3mm skim off the face of the spacer to clean it up. To finish it off ive used a 12mm drill bit to make a light chamfer in the top to help guide the tap. Just need to order myself a m12x1.25 tap now. Will clean the orignal thread as much as i can as well as take the thread deeper and run longer studs to regain as much strentgh as i can on the original damaged threads

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[dr_jekyll]

Had alot of ups and downs with this old slag now but its a moment like this ive just gotta feel the love for it. Makes all those skinned knuckles, days under the car in the rain and cursing at it seem worth while


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[mattbarker32]

Congratulations on the feature pal. Understand the highs and lows but like you said somethings are worth it.

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[tigerstyle]

Congrats! How many copies of the mag have you bought?

[dr_jekyll]

Cheers guys.. only one atm as abit poor [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY] kinda wanna get another and frame it as sad as it sounds

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[1616six]

Well done Justin

[dr_jekyll]

Thanks!

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[Frosty]

Good work bud, i look forward to getting my copy through so i can a have a read.

[dr_jekyll]

Thanks fella

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[Eeyore]

Well done justin.

[dr_jekyll]

Thanks

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[zx_volcane]

Ask PFC kindly for a copy to be sent out - and yeah why not frame it?

Good to see it get a feature.

[MY95]

Just had a read, Christ you must have put some hours in this car.
Great to see a non Renault, and a derv in the mag for a change.

[dr_jekyll]

Just had a read, Christ you must have put some hours in this car.
Great to see a non Renault, and a derv in the mag for a change.

Been done over 3 years but yeah, i dread to think myself. Its a nail. But its my nail and i love it [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]

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[Leemus]

well done fella on the mag feature

[dr_jekyll]

well done fella on the mag feature

Cheers dude. Hows that bay coming?

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