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What exhaust did you have? I seem to recall that you went back to a standard system at some point didn't you?
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Does the track have mag lines for lap timers?
If they do you could adapt a cheap kart lap timer no doubt. It's handy having lap times after each lap to check improvement.
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(02-11-2016, 07:28 PM)DeeTurbo Wrote: Does the track have mag lines for lap timers?
If they do you could adapt a cheap kart lap timer no doubt. It's handy having lap times after each lap to check improvement.
you get a right bollocking from the marshals if they catch you timing laps on trackdays
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not sure what system is on it
yes i did go to a std system when i went to the Ring in 2014 mainly for the mileage we were travelling
when i broke the moonstone 6 that had my current system fitted so swapped it over
lap timing at track days is a NO NO you will get kicked off
i always check mine via video's ive taken after the event
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Wow, didn't know that.
I guess you're not meant to be on limit?
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(02-11-2016, 08:04 PM)DeeTurbo Wrote: Wow, didn't know that.
I guess you're not meant to be on limit? The circuit insurance doesn't cover them if theres competitive stuff going on during a public trackway, or so I'm lead to believe.
timing your laps counts as racing in the insurance companies eyes
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Exactly as the above. Most of us participate in non competitive track days. Timing yourself counts as competitive.
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Exhaust system is back from being repacked what a good job they have done, they have even polished the whole lot
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That exhaust really is super shiny, I'd say a bargain at £60.
Your spin at Bobbies isn't even a half spin, a little slide with no room to correct it.
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19-04-2017, 04:38 PM
(This post was last modified: 19-04-2017, 04:38 PM by cully.)
well its that time of year again...MOT time!
so the std 306 thing to do is free up the handbrake and bias valve,
only to find she needs rear disc and pads so I'm awaiting on CP4L to deliver
once done i will book her in for her test and see how we go
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In relation to the bias valve, is the spring supposed to be compressed slightly when the car is on the floor?
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Boom!
12 months MOT no adviserys
and a clean bill of health on the emissions
and no it was not a dodgy MOT all above board
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31-07-2018, 03:27 PM
(This post was last modified: 31-07-2018, 03:29 PM by cully.)
Bianca is SORN'd off the road so have taken the opportunity to kill some rust and renew brake lines that were flagged to me on the MOT
all these were around the back underside one of the only areas i havnot treated
so today was start day, removed the beam found more rusted brakelines so looks like most of the lines need replacing
once the beam was off i build a welded crossbraced frame to support the car so i can get under it to do the clean and paint jobs
love it or hate it her she is now for a while!
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Great to see some progress mate. How bad is the rust?
CLUB RALLYE
||AVO Race GTX Coilovers||Signature Blue Steels||P1 VTS Rack||Hybrid ARB||21mm Torsion Bar||rich_w Flywheel||
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31-07-2018, 06:53 PM
(This post was last modified: 31-07-2018, 06:54 PM by cully.)
(31-07-2018, 06:38 PM)Orta Wrote: Great to see some progress mate. How bad is the rust?
the rust is not bad a good scape a wire brush and some Kurust then a coat of paint and some underseal will sort it
the worst thing ive found is the rusted steel brake lines they all need replacing on the rear
seriously bad..... so now seeing what i need to order for that as none want to come apart
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Wow, impressed at how you got the car up in the air like that. Certainly makes the job easier!
I've just made up a full set of rear brake lines in cunifer as couldn't get most of the old brake lines off without damaging them. Didn't take too long. Did most of the bends by hand but this was useful for some of the tighter ones. https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Handy-5mm-Brake...+tool.TRS0
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well thatll do the job! bit scary but hopefully it wont be like that for long anyway!
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I really need to do the same on the Dturbo and GTI. Dturbo isn't so bad just surface stuff but GTI has suffered quite bad
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getting on with this now
wire brushed cleaned and rust treated the effected areas
slowly taking the smaller plates off the beam and the bodywork and electrolisis cleaning them
then i thought id home brew a zink plating kit just to lightly plate the parts befor paint
dont think they turned out too bad for a quick job!
parts are turning up
new Handbrake cables
new set Red Hel Braided lines
new rear load bias valve
brake pipe fittings
paint
still waiting on
brake pipe
brake pipe pittings
brake pipe flare tool
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Rapid progress being made there Cully. Puts me to shame as got everything stripped off the back of the car months ago n progress has stalled since. Work n other stuff has got in the way.
Some more info on the galvanizing setup would be good. What electrolyte did you use?
What flaring tool did you go with btw? I ended up with an on-car & a vice-mounted tool. Both make perfect flares. If you do a flare on any genuine Pug pipe on the car tho you need to strip off the plastic coating from the end of the pipe first. The tool slips on the pipe otherwise. Then spray something like wax underseal on the exposed steel pipe to protect it from corrosion.
I also meant to comment on how good the bump stop mounting points look on your car. They're probably where the corrosion is most advanced on mine!
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all new brake lines going on with all new fittings as none of the old stuff was salvagable
the faring tool i bought was "Brake Pipe Flaring Tool TRIDENT"
its listed as 3/16 SAE i have done both steel and copper no problems single and double flare
i did a guide on here about the electrolisis cleaning and a seperate one for zinc plating
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05-08-2018, 03:11 PM
(This post was last modified: 05-08-2018, 03:11 PM by cully.)
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This all looks VERY familiar.......
Cherry Red Rallye - Full on OEM resto.....
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while its in the air thought I would wire wheel the front cross sections back treat, paint and seal them
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be warned if you go looking for rust you will find it and i did!
i took off the side sill covers on the O/s just to investigate a suspect area
only to find lots!
so had a good chop out to to get to good metal
so have treated the area now until i can get it welded
finding it on the O/s i then decided to remove the sill cap on the N/s
not so bad this side cut it out and treated ready for welding
And some good news... the beam is back in!!
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Yikes, I've heard the side skirts can hide a few horrors. Do you know where water gets in to the sills? Good to see the car getting all this attention btw.
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so the car has been off the road for a while now, i got the beam back in and bled the brakes so i could get it move to get the welding for the sills done.
Ive had the welding done so now its a case of treating the panels and resembling everything
so i ground back all the paint the welders put on and rust treated the sills again, then red oxide painted, followed by an underseal
all this was done in such a way the sill covers covered it all
once i got this far i decided to blast the insides of the sils with some cavity wax till it ran out the drain holes
then onto fitting the side skirts Oh! Peugeot no longer stock the 3 door sill trim clips!
so thinking outside the box i used some door trim clips and PU Adhesive
all the work and paint hidden under the side skirts
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great work cully. What underseal and cavity wax are you using? what brand is the red oxide paint too?
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