Stalls when dropping revs, Idles fine.

[Eddleston]

Afternoon all, 
So my Rallye is absolutely fine when turned on. Then after 20-30mins it will stall if you take your foot off the throttle from anywhere over 2500rpm. 
Got resistance in all coil packs 
Got resistance in all injectors
Throttle body clean
New ICV (how would one check it's ok?)
Accelerator cable adjusted perfectly 
All air path to the engine SEEMS ok
New lambda sensor (fixed for 35-40mins!) 
New fuel relay on the way 
Can't obviously find any leaks in a vacuum line either. Any tips or ideas? I've got today, Thursday, Friday and some of Saturday. After that it'll be ages before I can do much to it.

[Paul_13]

Icv sounds like it's a bit gunky and struggling to catch up

[Eddleston]

So new fuel relay.
New MAP sensor
Nope. Still stalls. More so when warm.
https://youtu.be/8fp7-XvNgvE

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I've adjusted the throttle cable so the car idles at 1100rpm and the problem has gone away.
So now it drops the revs down to 900 when you come off the accelerator. Not ideal but I could in theory drive it somewhere now

[Paul_13]

Have you reset the ecu

[Eddleston]

Have you reset the ecu

I havent, but I get about 30mins of 'good' driving after disconnecting the battery. 
How would I go about re-setting the ECU?

Took the ICV off today and under your recommendation cleaned it. Pretty gunky! 
Unfortunately it hasn't sorted the issue. 

Ran the car with the MAP sensor (brand new) unplugged for a bit which helped catching the revs but after about 10 secs the idle went lumpy and then cut out. 
Plugged the MAP back in and it idled nice but couldn't catch the revs. 

I'm so lost with this!

[Toms306]

Is it a genuine Magnetti ICV or a cheap ebay one?

[Eddleston]

Is it a genuine Magnetti ICV or a cheap ebay one?

Genuine one from Ryan

[insomaniac45]

Have you Replaced the ICV. been reading alot that just cleaning it may not work, as the gunk goes way deeper than you can see/get to.

I doubt an air leak after the filter and before the butterfly valve would make a difference, as it would just pull in un-cleaned air.


You say its one from Ryan, so does that mean you have replaced it with a new one. Sorry just a little in-clear on that

[RetroPug]

Was the lambda definitely the correct Bosch sensor?
Have you tried replacing the TPS?

[Toms306]

Don't know anyone near you with PP2K? Live data would be ideal to see what is (or isn't!) happening when the revs drop.

[Di3Ny]

So new fuel relay.
New MAP sensor
Nope. Still stalls. More so when warm.
https://youtu.be/8fp7-XvNgvE

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I've adjusted the throttle cable so the car idles at 1100rpm and the problem has gone away.
So now it drops the revs down to 900 when you come off the accelerator. Not ideal but I could in theory drive it somewhere now

Hi Mate, I'm having the same issue with my 306, 1996 n3 (style 1.8)
Car runs fine but if I nudge forward in traffic and take my foot off the gas the revs drop and the car stalls -
 - came about after changing the fuel filter and I think its caused by a vacuum leak (the washer that sits around my throttle body to air intake was old and broke off so its not an air tight seal anymore) - i'm trying to find a replacement or hack that will work, I'll post back if it turns out be that.

[Di3Ny]

*SOLVED for me*
Hi there, so as I said before your problem sounds pretty much the same as my one.
changed some of the filters ect and then the car started acting up at low revs and stalling when pressing the gas peddle gently and releasing it, to nudge forward at low revs.

turns out when pressing the gas genteelly to nudge in traffic say from 1000 revs (idle speed for me) 1300 revs, the ICV (idle control valve) was adjusting the revs so it sat back down at 1000 because it thought the car was over rev-ing, but when releasing the gass the revs would drop because of the lack of gas and drop to 700 or lower causing the car to stall.

What I did was re-set the ECU (engine control unit) - to reset the sensors, there are a couple of different methods to do this but the most detailed was from this guy:

(HATS OFF TO "POODLE", life saver)

http://306oc.co.uk/forum/archive/index.p...-9003.html

Found this among some old notes, thought it might be useful.

How to reset your ECU:
•Disconnect battery for 45 minutes.

•Reconnect battery and turn ignition to MAR for 90 seconds.

•Turn ignition off and leave for 90 seconds.

•Start engine without pressing throttle, let car idle for 15 minutes. Don't touch anything else!

•Turn off engine and leave for 10 minutes.

•Your ECU is now reset, go for a long drive covering all driving styles and cycles.

after following these steps to the letter I don't have any issues with the car at low revs any more, I must have left the battery off for a while when changing over all the filters and then went for a short drive afterword's which didn't let the system re calabrate the sensors (I think)

Di3Ny