Dr_Jekyll & Mr_Hyde Estate Project

[dr_jekyll]

I can check input shaft play on spare box if you want

Cheers but play deffo disapears with the input seal in. Seems its a taper bearing and the seal housing is designed to press the out race in

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[cully]

Its an erling. Site said would be either corteco or erling depending whats in. Slightly worried about bending it if i dont use a tool or is it just a case of man up and get on with it and stop worrying?

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man up and tap it inslowly working it all the way round with a hammer till flush.
put some grease on the seal lip and crank serface first so it dont damage the seal edge forcing it on,
also make sure the crank end is free from rust and is clean

[dr_jekyll]

Sounds good to me [SMILING FACE WITH OPEN MOUTH] best stop pussy footing

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[zx_volcane]

Paints brake disc........

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...you know its two bolts to remove the whole caliper...right?

Haha pads will burn it off in seconds

Ha i know but im lazy, plus one of the hub threads is f*cked so its been nut and bolted as long as ive had the car

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Why not sort the hub out?

You bothering to go extra mile on gearbox seals, bearings etc but not your brakes?

I'd have chucked another box on for the money / time

[dr_jekyll]

Never really needed to sort it. High tensile bolt and nut has never caused an issue.

Ive just replaced pads and sliders when the pads that were fitted still had plenty of life and tbf sliders were fine too so erm ok?

And im sat looking at a gearbox because the clutch hasnt arrived and sorting other bits too for the looming mot... how is that poor time managment?

£30 worth of seals and bushes to know its not gonna piss oil all over a new clutch vs a second hand unknown box that could still have weak seals........ alrighty then [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY][FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]

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[Piggy]

I can check input shaft play on spare box if you want??

[dr_jekyll]

I can check input shaft play on spare box if you want??

Sorry fella thought i replied. Naa its fine, tis a taper style bearing just didnt realise it. When you remove the seal housing theres no pressure on the taper so will appear to have play. Push on the taper with my finger and hey presto no play [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY] im a muppet lol

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[zx_volcane]

Oh yeah forgot you don't take on others views, yeah all fine and dandy away yah go, how did the brembos work out in the end?

[dr_jekyll]

Oh yeah forgot you don't take on others views, yeah all fine and dandy away yah go, how did the brembos work out in the end?

Youve just told me to replace my gearbox rather then do the seals which are cheaper?

Sorry chap but that makes no sense when theres no telling the condition of the seals on another 2nd hand box. Oh and the fact a box will cost more then the seals?

Maybe im just a backwards man


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Ohh and the brembos that didnt fit only cost me a grand total of £180 all in... that then got swapped for spax coilovers and rose jointed top mounts and then sold the rear dampers for £60 as i didnt need them so erm... yeah really worked out badly for me [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY][FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY][FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]

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[zx_volcane]

you're not the backwards man, I can walk backwards fast as you can

however you're so blasé about you're calliper mounting points

binned one off for a 'high tensile' bolt? sounds like bodge of the year.

assume it has exactly the same clamping capabilities then? A fine pitched thread, all the better for being resistant to vibrating loose, is threadlocked, and has the nut end welded to the hub to again give half the chance of it all coming apart when you put your foot on the brake and need it to work the most?

sorry, but you put time and effort into farting about with a gearbox when you could spend 5mins and less than a £10er sticking a helicoil in that hub.

[dr_jekyll]

you're not the backwards man, I can walk backwards fast as you can

however you're so blasé about you're calliper mounting points

binned one off for a 'high tensile' bolt? sounds like bodge of the year.

assume it has exactly the same clamping capabilities then? A fine pitched thread, all the better for being resistant to vibrating loose, is threadlocked, and has the nut end welded to the hub to again give half the chance of it all coming apart when you put your foot on the brake and need it to work the most?

sorry, but you put time and effort into farting about with a gearbox when you could spend 5mins and less than a £10er sticking a helicoil in that hub.

Hub was like it when i bought the car but only had the old bolt pushed in because the thread was stripped. I just drilled it out to the same size as the calliper and found a high tensile bolt with a larger shank to sit through the calliper and hub and yes it is actually does have thread lock on.

Your gearbox comment is still a waste of breath. Why replace a box thats known to be good rather then just fit new seals.....

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See youve got no more comments for my poorly choosen brembos?

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[zx_volcane]

See youve got no more comments for my poorly choosen brembos?

What is there to say?

We all advised it was a stupid idea to try and get them on, you threw your toys out the pram, and in the end binned them off.

Déjà vu

My point with this, and still is - why put time money and effort into gearbox seals when you won't sort your brakes.

Assuming you're low on money, id have put the dosh into a hub / helicoil kit and put a known good 2nd hand box on which can be picked up for peanuts.

You're the one getting arsey when people disagree with you

[Ruan]

Not to mention, I've seen so many people fit seals to things (non genuine...) and them end up leaking within a few hundred miles. Usually because the surfaces weren't impeccably clean and the parts just aren't as good.

They're not a common item to fail, which is the surprise... Gearboxes are cheap enough these days to not worry about, but yet you're worrying about seals... But won't sort a vital problem with the braking system.

This all ties in with the strut brace debacle when you put it on anyway, pissed brake fluid everywhere and you went bezerk at the guy saying you carry your daughter in the car. I'm sorry, but if you're carrying your own daughter in your car, why don't you get the bloody braking system sorted before farting about with stupidly oversized spacers, brakes you don't need and won't fit properly!?!?

I think I should just ban myself from this thread because it drives me potty to see someone complain like hell about all the shit luck that's dealt out, but won't sort simple, basic and frankly safety critical problems.

[dr_jekyll]

My brakes are fine and are being rebuilt anyway.



That is currently the cheapest box on ebay. Yes i bought mine cheaper then that and got it for £60 so it is poss but that item at £80 is currently the cheapest on the market without me delving deeper.

Now...
- I cannot prove the condition of the bearings on that box
- i cannot prove the syncro's are intact and fine
- i cannot prove the seals do not leak.

I currently have a working gearbox...
- with fine bearings and no whine
- changes gear smoothly
- seals were fine but changing out of good practice.

Your telling me to bin off a good box to buy a box i know nothing about for atleast twice as much as its cost to repair the seals on mine... and add that note lets just list how much the seal and bushes have cost
Corteco input shaft seal £12
Genuine pug fork bushes £5

So that means my mild box refurb has cost £17. Find me a proven box for that price and you have a valid point. If not. Shut the f*ck up about the box.

The only point youve got at all here is that the nut on bolt on one of the callipers seems "unsafe" to a fair few people. Its been in place the 3 years ive had the car and never been a problem.

Why fix it if its not unsafe or a problem?

And if you dare say why fit box and crank seals if there not leaking would you want to fit a new paddle clutch to have oil piss all over it?

No.
Jog on

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Not to mention, I've seen so many people fit seals to things (non genuine...) and them end up leaking within a few hundred miles. Usually because the surfaces weren't impeccably clean and the parts just aren't as good.

They're not a common item to fail, which is the surprise... Gearboxes are cheap enough these days to not worry about, but yet you're worrying about seals... But won't sort a vital problem with the braking system.

This all ties in with the strut brace debacle when you put it on anyway, pissed brake fluid everywhere and you went bezerk at the guy saying you carry your daughter in the car. I'm sorry, but if you're carrying your own daughter in your car, why don't you get the bloody braking system sorted before farting about with stupidly oversized spacers, brakes you don't need and won't fit properly!?!?

I think I should just ban myself from this thread because it drives me potty to see someone complain like hell about all the shit luck that's dealt out, but won't sort simple, basic and frankly safety critical problems.

Bye then..

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Im just a dangerous arsehole with a cool car and i love it [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]

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[zx_volcane]

you're hilarious chap

i'm not having a dig at you pottering about with your gearbox, but the priority it has taken over other stuff that id consider more important.

point about the gearbox is that you're happy to put your funds into that over sorting your caliper mounting points.

why not do both?

skint? then sort the brakes first and stick another cheap box on for now? bet there are people on the forum that would give you a box for free if you needed. hell i sold 3 recently for next to nothing as i had to clear space and there was no interest at what i thought was reasonable money (20/30 a pop).

not rocket science

no need to come across so totes emosh

juts chuck another £7 at a helicoil kit on your ebay list and spend 5 mins sorting it out

#haterzzzgonnahate

[dr_jekyll]

Hey what can i say.. im an awesome stand up

Ok show of hands who here has a box for next to nothing local to norfolk who can deliver because i dont have access to another car

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[zx_volcane]

give up the career in comedy and just sort your brakes

[dr_jekyll]

Well thats my dream of showing in the O2 down the drain [CRYING FACE]

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[bashbarnard]

Hey what can i say.. im an awesome stand up

Ok show of hands who here has a box for next to nothing local to norfolk who can deliver because i dont have access to another car

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Me, i have a spare box, known good one, xud or hdi? You know this forums just trying to help man.

[dr_jekyll]

Hey what can i say.. im an awesome stand up

Ok show of hands who here has a box for next to nothing local to norfolk who can deliver because i dont have access to another car

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Me, i have a spare box, known good one, xud or hdi? You know this forums just trying to help man.

God damn [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY] dont think the seals were a bad choice tho considering i know the box is good. Just comes across to me like being told swapping the crank seal is a bad idea because you can pick a whole engine up for £40. If its known to be good why bin it?
When it comes to that bolt just dont understand why everyones so down on it. Callipers never moved with it. Only issue is it takes abit more work to swap a brake disk that side

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[Piggy]

Just hold up your hands mate...you may turn out to do alright sometimes...
But to review on the brakes...
You fitted the pads incorrectly and have done for a while...
Bodged caliper bolt
Painted your discs...

I'm not saying I know better...but you do sometimes ask for the leg pulling

[insomaniac45]

can i just say, thats alot of work fella

it is never a bad thing changing out seals when you have the opportunity. Who knows when that seal will fail? and it will most likly be half way though the working life of the new clutch , but now you have changed it (or are going to) i am sure it will be fine.


As for the caliper bolt, i must urge you to change it asap fella. It is not good having extra mean points of failure on braking systems. If that bolt does work loose, you may not have any brakes.

Its only your safety were thinking of fella

[dr_jekyll]

Just hold up your hands mate...you may turn out to do alright sometimes...
But to review on the brakes...
You fitted the pads incorrectly and have done for a while...
Bodged caliper bolt
Painted your discs...

I'm not saying I know better...but you do sometimes ask for the leg pulling

Pads im genuinley disguisted at myself for.. had 306's since i passed and always fitted them like that not knowing.

The bolt i genuinley dont believe is dangerous. Shank matches the hole on the high tensile bolt. Is a longer shank then the stock bolt so thatit seats into the hub aswell to prevent movement and bolt is locktite'd aswell. Bodge yes.. dangerous no

Disks have been cleaned off with sandpaper. Im genuinly not that daft lol, just know it winds people up

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can i just say, thats alot of work fella

it is never a bad thing changing out seals when you have the opportunity. Who knows when that seal will fail? and it will most likly be half way though the working life of the new clutch , but now you have changed it (or are going to) i am sure it will be fine.


As for the caliper bolt, i must urge you to change it asap fella. It is not good having extra mean points of failure on braking systems. If that bolt does work loose, you may not have any brakes.

Its only your safety were thinking of fella

Cheers

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[JamesG]

Totally agree with the box, if it's a known working one its Definately worth spending the money on renewing seals and bushes! Like you found out an I previously mentioned I hadn't thought about the shaft seal getting rid of the play in the bearing so glad it's sorted [emoji1303]

As far as the caliper bolt goes I'd get it sorted pal as a temporary repair its fine and I'm not saying it wouldn't be fine for years to come but when you can pick up a second hand hub for next to nothing nowadays I'd just fit a known good working hub as I'm not a fan of heli coiling things (as suggested) unless completely necessary.

Got a hub here if needed pal just needs new wheel bearing if it'll help you out!?

[dr_jekyll]

Im not gonna lie. Hubs just been a lazy thing as its never caused an issue. Have intended to fit a new hub a few times when ive had other jobs to do down there but always gets put off. Got a local scrappy i can get one dirt cheap off but thanks for the offer. Also hate helicoils which is why i just shrug that option off every time. Trust a nut and bolt over a helicoil any day! Id soon know if the nuts loose too as theres only a nats cock of a gap between that and the disk

Got crank seal in today and clutch tool and oil just arrived... just waiting on the f'ing clutch 😑


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[insomaniac45]

 Trust a nut and bolt over a helicoil any day! 


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Your logic on helicoils are misconceived there fella. 

Being a qualified machinist, it is actually an upgrade to the stock and standard thread, simply because they are alot stronger and hold their threads better. I have never known a helicoil to strip or pull out. 

you have to imagine a helicoil is like an adapter thread. so if the thread is M10 (10mm) the heli coil is M12, meaning you have the strength of the M12 bolt, on an M10 stud. the only thing that will fail there is the stud, not the helicoil nor the material you put the helicoil into, beit aluminium, copper, brass, magnesium etc etc. 

In many instances, it is common practice to actually put them in during machining with softer materials like aluminium, as they take all the strain off the soft material and make a very good mechanical bond.

It is good practice to use locktite on them, as if they do unscrew, you will have to put a new one in. But then it will never strip or fail again. 
The only reason this is not done from the start, is simply because of cost. I have been known when buying cheap parts for my motors in the past, to actually do this from the off. It adds so much more security to the mechanical bond its unreal.  

To say a heli coil will fail, is like saying the titanic floats. 

You can get the kits of ebay for about £10, If you do it, and it fails, i will eat my words.

[dr_jekyll]

Ive seen them fail a fair bit (assuming you mean the spring style and not a solid insert). We use them at work when the original threads pull out, (trainee engineer in the food industry) mainly on ali and stainless machinery at work. Once fitted you can pretty much garuntee in the near future we'll be called back because its pulled out. We use them as a quick fix/ bodge while a new parts put is put on order or its manufactured in house.
A solid insert ive not seen fail even when inserted into nylon on our press heads for cheese cake bases.

Genuinley not saying it to be a bitch about what your saying.. this is just my personal experience with the ones we have at work.
Would rather stick another 2nd hand hub.. can pick one up as cheap as a coil kit.
Like ive said ive just been lazy with it as ive never felt the nut and bolt has caused a safety issue. It will be done but when the hub is actually an issure.. like if the wheel bearing needs replacing or next time i need a ball joints (do balljoints often thanks to the lows).

Sorry if my dislike to helicoils is not to your taste but its my personal experience with them that dictates it



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[JamesG]

To say a heli coil will fail, is like saying the titanic floats. 

Titanic does float well it should of the builders had built it correctly and not cut corners

Useful information in regards to the helicoil side of things and everything you've said makes sense apart from having used cheaper kits and dearer kits I do find the dearer kits to be of better quality and do what you've said but the cheaper stuff I have seen come out when some has been a little heavy handed with over torquing, not excessively I've seen them stripped out.

Im not gonna lie. Hubs just been a lazy thing as its never caused an issue. Have intended to fit a new hub a few times when ive had other jobs to do down there but always gets put off. Got a local scrappy i can get one dirt cheap off but thanks for the offer. Also hate helicoils which is why i just shrug that option off every time. Trust a nut and bolt over a helicoil any day! Id soon know if the nuts loose too as theres only a nats cock of a gap between that and the disk

Got crank seal in today and clutch tool and oil just arrived... just waiting on the f'ing clutch 😑


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I literally will send you the hub for nothing bud send me your address and I'll post it to you for friday. Literally just need to put a wheel bearing in it and your away [emoji1303]

[aggyj17]

To say a heli coil will fail, is like saying the titanic floats. 

Im not gonna lie. Hubs just been a lazy thing as its never caused an issue. Have intended to fit a new hub a few times when ive had other jobs to do down there but always gets put off. Got a local scrappy i can get one dirt cheap off but thanks for the offer. Also hate helicoils which is why i just shrug that option off every time. Trust a nut and bolt over a helicoil any day! Id soon know if the nuts loose too as theres only a nats cock of a gap between that and the disk

Got crank seal in today and clutch tool and oil just arrived... just waiting on the f'ing clutch 😑


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I literally will send you the hub for nothing bud send me your address and I'll post it to you for friday. Literally just need to put a wheel bearing in it and your away [emoji1303]

I have offered him hubs In his hand in the past when he was at mine [FACE WITH STUCK-OUT TONGUE AND TIGHTLY-CLOSED EYES] [FACE WITH STUCK-OUT TONGUE AND TIGHTLY-CLOSED EYES] [FACE WITH STUCK-OUT TONGUE AND TIGHTLY-CLOSED EYES]

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[dr_jekyll]

Appreciate it alot fella! Really do but i can get a complete hub from my local scrappy cheaper then a wheel bearing and a helicoil kit.
Theres several 306's there so i know i can deffo get one. Nut and bolts been on for three years.. im sure she'll last another two weeks to get me to the scrapyard when the cars rebuilt. Got a small list of bits i need to source too and can rest assure it is on the list.

Aggy i couldnt get the play out of the hubs i had off you on the wheel bearing and i cranked that thing solid on the castle nut [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY] the others you had were 16mm to you only had that 1 pair of 18mm


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