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t sit with it between my legs risking slicing my knob like pepperoni.
I literally couldn't breathe from laughing when I read that lol cue the couch thread " dum dum down, hospital visiting hours are!!" Hahah
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(25-06-2016, 11:53 AM)Chris306 Wrote: t sit with it between my legs risking slicing my knob like pepperoni.
I literally couldn't breathe from laughing when I read that lol cue the couch thread " dum dum down, hospital visiting hours are!!" Hahah
Cheers mate, I do try and give you all a laugh.
TBH the whole project is hilariously ridiculous.
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I've been testing the Holset. As suspected it's vanes are controlled by a boost actuator so no faffing about with swapping from a vac actuator.
The standard bike pump worked and compared to the GT23V I had on the XUD11 it starts moving a few psi later and finishes a little later at 30psi.
Not in the video but I was spinning the blades by turning the nut on the end of the shaft by hand and even at that slow speed you can feel it blowing air! It's gonna be a beast.
https://youtu.be/5Hz84VtKPZM
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Pictures don't do justice to the size of that turbo, although here is a few more to try and prove a point.
I think I might have gone slightly overboard. The cold side had a 4" inlet and a 3" v-band outlet, the oil return is gonna need to be half inch and the exhaust fitting is a 4" v-band.
In case that doesn't talk to you lets compare it to a Ford 1.0 ecoboost block
Factor - HX55V - Ecoboost
Weight - 25.5kg - 23.5kg
Height - 26cm - 26cm
Width - 33cm - 30cm
Length - 22cm - 20cm
Bigger in every factor, I'm struggling to get my head round it.
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Your turbo weighs 25kg? f*ck.
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engine is 450 kg or thereabouts...
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(26-06-2016, 08:59 PM)bigcheez2k3 Wrote: Your turbo weighs 25kg? f*ck. 25.5kg but yep.
I need to photograph it next to a GT15. I think the GT15 might fit down the inlet of this.
(26-06-2016, 09:25 PM)welshpug Wrote: engine is 450 kg or thereabouts... 500kg (1100lb when I researched it)
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500kg!! f*cking hell! I am sure that's the weight of a Caterham or something!
how quick will this thing be then?
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(27-06-2016, 05:05 AM)procta Wrote: 500kg!! f*cking hell! I am sure that's the weight of a Caterham or something!
how quick will this thing be then?
Yeah man, my engine weighs as much as a light Caterham (most are a little heavier)
It should weigh in between 2-2.2 tonne and 500bhp is a realistic power aim for a starter so it's a similar power to weight ratio to a LBSC GTi6. Outright speed is less important, I'm just building something that's a bit of an extension of my ego.
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My mates Roadrunner Sr2 weighs 480kg all in! Looking forward to see this project evolve. When you find an engine of course....
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an alternator with vacuum pump?! sounds like what i could have done with on the 1.8!
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oil feed and oil return on those from memory the vac pump need lubrication hence three outlets.
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As above, the other pipes are the oil feed / return for vac pump..Still cant believe you are going 12v Thats cost of alternator, oil lines towards a the shunt relay
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(29-06-2016, 04:20 PM)Eeyore Wrote: an alternator with vacuum pump?! sounds like what i could have done with on the 1.8! Yep, awesome invention.
(29-06-2016, 05:17 PM)bashbarnard Wrote: oil feed and oil return on those from memory the vac pump need lubrication hence three outlets. Ah now that makes sense, gonna have to google pics of it fitted to work out which pipe does what LOL.
(29-06-2016, 05:32 PM)darrenjlobb Wrote: As above, the other pipes are the oil feed / return for vac pump..Still cant believe you are going 12v Thats cost of alternator, oil lines towards a the shunt relay GTFO!
#12v4lyf
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hope your m8 has a push truck
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(29-06-2016, 07:50 PM)cully Wrote: hope your m8 has a push truck
GTFO!
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Good to see some progress on this man. Looking forward to this one.
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07-08-2016, 01:37 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-08-2016, 01:39 PM by Dum-Dum.)
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What brand rustkiller are you using? Do you rate it?
all the painting prep means closer to engine bits going in, yay!
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(07-08-2016, 01:50 PM)tigerstyle Wrote: What brand rustkiller are you using? Do you rate it?
all the painting prep means closer to engine bits going in, yay!
It's hammerite rust killer, never had a problem with it but you really need to get any loose paint and loose rust off before you apply it.
I'm potentially 2 weeks from getting an engine but it all depends on how much I get paid in a week and a bit as I need to factor in buying a 2 tonne engine crane and hiring a flatbed to go and get the engine.
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Something big has happened!!!!!
The rusty bed is off the truck!
I had to cut the back end of the bed off to get the rest off as I couldn't get to the final 2 bolts.
And I rolled the bed off using the high lift jack and some brute force
And now she sits looking like this. The chassis is flakey but solid, mainly it looks like the paint is flaking off so I'll just do the chassis in red oxide, then a coat of white to keep it looking good and I'll waxoyl the inside of the chassis legs.
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Isn't this running yet?
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(22-08-2016, 08:34 PM)JJ0063 Wrote: Isn't this running yet?
I wish!!
I could possibly have it running for about a grand, driving would be another grand, roadworthy another grand again.
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have you sorted out a replacement rear?
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there it goes! how many bolts actually hold the bed to the chassis?
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(22-08-2016, 11:30 PM)procta Wrote: have you sorted out a replacement rear? Rear axle no, lack of money and they have started climbing in price and I'm not paying a grand for the axle I want.
Rear bed/tub also no. I'm not replacing it like for like, I'm gonna do something different, Possibly a plain wooden flat bed (with steel frame obvs).
(23-08-2016, 08:42 AM)mr_fish Wrote: there it goes! how many bolts actually hold the bed to the chassis? 8 bolts total plus rear light wiring and the fuel filler.
The front 6 bolts (3 each side) sit just outboard of the chassis legs and are really easy to find and come undone unexpectedly easily (half turn with the breaker then the rest on the ratchet) The rear pair are inside the chassis legs and access is obstructed by the tow bar which no doubt you won't be able to remove because the bolts will be rusted to f*ck.
That's why I cut the rear section out. Just cut around the bar that rests on the chassis and has the bolts in.
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Dum dum, can you not buy a rear axle needing a referb and go from there? also can the current one do the task?
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