Cummins Drift Truck a la Dum-Dum

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Cummins Drift Truck a la Dum-Dum
#91
t sit with it between my legs risking slicing my knob like pepperoni.

I literally couldn't breathe from laughing when I read that lol cue the couch thread " dum dum down, hospital visiting hours are!!" Hahah
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#92
(25-06-2016, 11:53 AM)Chris306 Wrote: t sit with it between my legs risking slicing my knob like pepperoni.

I literally couldn't breathe from laughing when I read that lol cue the couch thread " dum dum down, hospital visiting hours are!!" Hahah

Cheers mate, I do try and give you all a laugh.
TBH the whole project is hilariously ridiculous.
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#93
I've been testing the Holset. As suspected it's vanes are controlled by a boost actuator so no faffing about with swapping from a vac actuator.

The standard bike pump worked and compared to the GT23V I had on the XUD11 it starts moving a few psi later and finishes a little later at 30psi.

Not in the video but I was spinning the blades by turning the nut on the end of the shaft by hand and even at that slow speed you can feel it blowing air! It's gonna be a beast.

https://youtu.be/5Hz84VtKPZM
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#94
Pictures don't do justice to the size of that turbo, although here is a few more to try and prove a point.
I think I might have gone slightly overboard. The cold side had a 4" inlet and a 3" v-band outlet, the oil return is gonna need to be half inch and the exhaust fitting is a 4" v-band.



In case that doesn't talk to you lets compare it to a Ford 1.0 ecoboost block

Factor  -  HX55V  - Ecoboost
Weight  - 25.5kg  -  23.5kg
Height  -  26cm   -   26cm
Width   -  33cm   -   30cm
Length  - 22cm   -   20cm


Bigger in every factor, I'm struggling to get my head round it.



   
   
   
   
   
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#95
Your turbo weighs 25kg? f*ck.
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#96
engine is 450 kg or thereabouts...
need a part number? http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/ and http://service.citroen.com/ will sort you out.
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#97
(26-06-2016, 08:59 PM)bigcheez2k3 Wrote: Your turbo weighs 25kg? f*ck.
25.5kg but yep.
I need to photograph it next to a GT15. I think the GT15 might fit down the inlet of this.




(26-06-2016, 09:25 PM)welshpug Wrote: engine is 450 kg or thereabouts...
500kg (1100lb when I researched it)
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#98
500kg!! f*cking hell! I am sure that's the weight of a Caterham or something!
how quick will this thing be then?
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#99
(27-06-2016, 05:05 AM)procta Wrote: 500kg!! f*cking hell! I am sure that's the weight of a Caterham or something!
how quick will this thing be then?

Yeah man, my engine weighs as much as a light Caterham (most are a little heavier)

It should weigh in between 2-2.2 tonne and 500bhp is a realistic power aim for a starter so it's a similar power to weight ratio to a LBSC GTi6. Outright speed is less important, I'm just building something that's a bit of an extension of my ego.
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My mates Roadrunner Sr2 weighs 480kg all in! Looking forward to see this project evolve. When you find an engine of course....
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In more important news I now have the appropriate 12v alternator with built in vacuum pump for the brakes. Only issue is there is 3 outlets from the pump and I have no idea which is vac and what the other 2 are.

I went for it well before when I need it as it has the correct wiring plug for the W terminal and also the adjuster so I can use it to tension the aux belt. Also having had a 10% ebay voucher and some nectar vouchers it came out surprisingly cheap.

   
   
   

























   
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an alternator with vacuum pump?! sounds like what i could have done with on the 1.8!
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oil feed and oil return on those from memory the vac pump need lubrication hence three outlets.
On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
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As above, the other pipes are the oil feed / return for vac pump..Still cant believe you are going 12v Tongue Thats cost of alternator, oil lines towards a the shunt relay Wink
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(29-06-2016, 04:20 PM)Eeyore Wrote: an alternator with vacuum pump?! sounds like what i could have done with on the 1.8!
Yep, awesome invention.




(29-06-2016, 05:17 PM)bashbarnard Wrote: oil feed and oil return on those from memory the vac pump need lubrication hence three outlets.
Ah now that makes sense, gonna have to google pics of it fitted to work out which pipe does what LOL.








(29-06-2016, 05:32 PM)darrenjlobb Wrote: As above, the other pipes are the oil feed / return for vac pump..Still cant believe you are going 12v Tongue Thats cost of alternator, oil lines towards a the shunt relay Wink
GTFO!
#12v4lyf
Smile
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hope your m8 has a push truck Big Grin

https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/
GTI6 Info

Don’t drive faster than your guardian angel can fly.

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(29-06-2016, 07:50 PM)cully Wrote: hope your m8 has a push truck Big Grin

GTFO!
[Image: IMG_2585.JPG]
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Got a little more done on the truck last week, got most of the fuses in the fuse box, need to find a handful of the big ones
   




I also got the wire brush out and cleaned up the rust on the front nearside of the body, still got the other 3 corners to do. Also got a patch to weld in.
   
   




Painted the bare metal with some rust treatment too. I need some dust masks before I deal with any more rust as I inhaled far too much doing this 1 corner.
   
   
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Good to see some progress on this man. Looking forward to this one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
On a break from 306oc for personal reasons. If anyone needs or wants me most of you have my number and or facebook messenger
Thanks for the good times guys n gals. I might be back. Who knows.
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So much win!
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Started cleaning up some more rust with the intention of painting it. Went for the nearside of the bed only as it was closest to the extension lead and after removing the arch liner and mud flap started to find it to be horrifically rusty. There was a huge bit at the back of the inner arch that just crumbled to nothing as well as the bits in the pics being through 2 and three layers of metal. Essentially the bed is scrap but this is no problem really as I can make a nice old school looking wooden flat bed (in a new metal frame).

Edit; yes I could weld a load of patches in but it will be quicker and easier to knock up my own bed.

   
   
   




So after giving up on the bed I went back to finishing the bay, I cleaned up some more rust with the wire brush cup, gave it a couple of coats of rust killer then a coat of white metal paint. It needs another coat of white but it's looking pretty fresh.

   
   
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What brand rustkiller are you using? Do you rate it?

all the painting prep means closer to engine bits going in, yay!
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(07-08-2016, 01:50 PM)tigerstyle Wrote: What brand rustkiller are you using? Do you rate it?

all the painting prep means closer to engine bits going in, yay!

It's hammerite rust killer, never had a problem with it but you really need to get any loose paint and loose rust off before you apply it.

I'm potentially 2 weeks from getting an engine but it all depends on how much I get paid in a week and a bit as I need to factor in buying a 2 tonne engine crane and hiring a flatbed to go and get the engine.
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Something big has happened!!!!!





The rusty bed is off the truck!
   





I had to cut the back end of the bed off to get the rest off as I couldn't get to the final 2 bolts.
   





And I rolled the bed off using the high lift jack and some brute force Smile
   





And now she sits looking like this. The chassis is flakey but solid, mainly it looks like the paint is flaking off so I'll just do the chassis in red oxide, then a coat of white to keep it looking good and I'll waxoyl the inside of the chassis legs.
   
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Isn't this running yet? Wink
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(22-08-2016, 08:34 PM)JJ0063 Wrote: Isn't this running yet? Wink

I wish!!
I could possibly have it running for about a grand, driving would be another grand, roadworthy another grand again.
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have you sorted out a replacement rear?
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there it goes! how many bolts actually hold the bed to the chassis?
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(22-08-2016, 11:30 PM)procta Wrote: have you sorted out a replacement rear?
Rear axle no, lack of money and they have started climbing in price and I'm not paying a grand for the axle I want.
Rear bed/tub also no. I'm not replacing it like for like, I'm gonna do something different, Possibly a plain wooden flat bed (with steel frame obvs).





(23-08-2016, 08:42 AM)mr_fish Wrote: there it goes! how many bolts actually hold the bed to the chassis?
8 bolts total plus rear light wiring and the fuel filler.

The front 6 bolts (3 each side) sit just outboard of the chassis legs and are really easy to find and come undone unexpectedly easily (half turn with the breaker then the rest on the ratchet) The rear pair are inside the chassis legs and access is obstructed by the tow bar which no doubt you won't be able to remove because the bolts will be rusted to f*ck.

That's why I cut the rear section out. Just cut around the bar that rests on the chassis and has the bolts in.
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Dum dum, can you not buy a rear axle needing a referb and go from there? also can the current one do the task?
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