18-06-2016, 08:40 AM (This post was last modified: 18-06-2016, 02:10 PM by theGAMEisOVER.)
Good morning everyone , thank you for opening the post, and i hope they can help.
I have a Peugeot 306 HDI phase 3, 00" i want to do swap RHY 2.0 HDI for RHX 2.2 HDI . I have all the parts necessary ECU, wiring, engine, gearbox, intercooler ...
It's sad because i searched in various forums and all said that it was plug and play but truth is not.
I know I have to cut transmissions in length, I have also changed the support from a gearbox,change the clutch to hydraulic, etc etc.
But... it does not fit, the box does not pass on a subframe.
The box I think it's a ML5T come from a Peugeot 607 ( I can not see the reference) .
I hope I can help, please.
Thank you so much.
Would love to do this conversion on my car, wonder what it would do to the handling though, good luck with the project! sure someone with some knowledge will be along to help shortly
Welcome along, if it's a problem with the box hitting why don't you weld the box mount in a slightly different place to move the box or fit the engine with a BE3 gearbox rather than an ML5 box or maybe cut a notch out of the sub frame for clearance.
It's not a plug and play conversion... The blocks are quite different and the mounts don't line up at all.. As you've found you have to convert to hydraulic clutch, driveshafts won't fit.
You're best off losing not even 200cc of capacity and putting the 4HX 16v head onto a RHY/RHZ 2.0 8v bottom end... Swap out for a set of RHW/RHM/RHT (2.0 16v) pistons if you want definite compatability, although I reckon you might not need to change them, the valve reliefs only set the compression ratio and are only used if the belt slips... They're not required in normal operation, not to mention that the rockers are the weak link anyway, you can't bend valves.
That way all you do is use the 4HX 2.2 16v head, injectors, but you keep the 2.0 RHY/RHZ bottom end that fits the BE gearbox, ancillaries, cable clutch, driveshafts, stock engine mounts, stock driveshafts... Also you save a huge amount of weight and don't have the silly deep sump. The improvement in the 2.2 16v is from the head really.
RHY/RHZ 2.0 with 4HX head advantages :-
- Gearbox fits stock
- Ancillaries off 306 fit straight on
- Driveshafts fit
- Shorter sump
- Don't have to notch subframe
- Uses cable clutch
- Engine mounts fit directly
- Lighter
2.2 4HX advantages :-
- It's a 2.2
- 182cc extra displacement
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in.
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
18-06-2016, 10:24 AM (This post was last modified: 18-06-2016, 10:37 AM by theGAMEisOVER.)
thanks for your reply , I also had thought about it but the BE3 box fails the engine 4HX
(18-06-2016, 10:01 AM)Ruan Wrote: That's not an RHX, that's a 4HX... Anyway...
It's not a plug and play conversion... The blocks are quite different and the mounts don't line up at all.. As you've found you have to convert to hydraulic clutch, driveshafts won't fit.
You're best off losing not even 200cc of capacity and putting the 4HX 16v head onto a RHY/RHZ 2.0 8v bottom end... Swap out for a set of RHW/RHM/RHT (2.0 16v) pistons if you want definite compatability, although I reckon you might not need to change them, the valve reliefs only set the compression ratio and are only used if the belt slips... They're not required in normal operation, not to mention that the rockers are the weak link anyway, you can't bend valves.
That way all you do is use the 4HX 2.2 16v head, injectors, but you keep the 2.0 RHY/RHZ bottom end that fits the BE gearbox, ancillaries, cable clutch, driveshafts, stock engine mounts, stock driveshafts... Also you save a huge amount of weight and don't have the silly deep sump. The improvement in the 2.2 16v is from the head really.
RHY/RHZ 2.0 with 4HX head advantages :-
- Gearbox fits stock
- Ancillaries off 306 fit straight on
- Driveshafts fit
- Shorter sump
- Don't have to notch subframe
- Uses cable clutch
- Engine mounts fit directly
- Lighter
2.2 4HX advantages :-
- It's a 2.2
- 182cc extra displacement
Thank you for your answer, really smart . But I really wanted to go for the full engine 4HX ( not RHX my mistake ) maybe have to cut a little bit a subframe . Maybe is this what is indicated in the image?
Fitting the engine would be no more difficult than the V6 engine, Subframe and mount mods and its quite easy if a little time consuming if never done before.
Driveshafts and clutch are easy enough as well along with cable gearchange. Sump sounds like the same issue as with the V6 engine and it does become a pain with grounding out.
but the electronics would be a nightmare as your going from a multiplex 3 plug ECU to a 306
Overall Road Going Production Class Winner at BARC Gurston Down Speed Hillclimb 2012, 2013 & 2014 With a class record along the way (For a while), Taking 2nd place will be Ian Redding's 306 GTi
2016 Castle Combe GT championship class winner
Thanks miles, The electronics is no problem, I have all wiring and a multiplex 3 plug ECU to a 306.
My problem is the subframe...anyone have photos of a transformed subframe?
Get the person calibrating the ECU to recalibrate the 306 2.0 8v ECU, rather than the 2.2 16v ECU. This way the immobiliser etc all works, no need to piss around with using the multiplex software working without errors. If the tuner knows what they're doing, it's no problem.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in.
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
(18-06-2016, 05:19 PM)theGAMEisOVER Wrote: My problem is the subframe...anyone have photos of a transformed subframe?
I would suggest funding out where it hits exactly, cutting a chunk out of the subframe then testing it again, if it still doesn't fit then cut more out of the subframe till it fits. Remember you need clearance for the engine moving under acceleration and then just weld a plate over any hole you have left in the subframe.
(18-06-2016, 09:49 AM)Dum-Dum Wrote: Welcome along, if it's a problem with the box hitting why don't you weld the box mount in a slightly different place to move the box or fit the engine with a BE3 gearbox rather than an ML5 box or maybe cut a notch out of the sub frame for clearance.
(18-06-2016, 09:49 AM)Dum-Dum Wrote: Welcome along, if it's a problem with the box hitting why don't you weld the box mount in a slightly different place to move the box or fit the engine with a BE3 gearbox rather than an ML5 box or maybe cut a notch out of the sub frame for clearance.
The "pattern" is the same...but its enlarged about 10/15% for the 2.2 block.
So kit all "looks" ok...and you sit there baffled why it wont fit...then realise. Offset is all wrong for flywheel too.
i have tryed this on my 206... but no luck:
4hx engine with ml5 gearbox from c5 with 102.000km
206 2.0 hdi 90hp be4 gearbox dont fit (similar patern, but not same!)
only you can make new holes on gearbox, but not good idea
i think a solution can be adapter plate to bolt to engine and bolt to gearbox, but this is complex...