Dr_Jekyll & Mr_Hyde Estate Project

[dr_jekyll]

Yep same as mine I put a new cable on aswell just thought it was a bit strange as most clutchs are near the bottom

My suspision is stock pressure plates. These clutches are made by cg and believe a while back they were using luk pressure plates with there kits (read this somewhere but not witnessed it myself) if this is true then the pressure plates themselfs dont have greater clamping force ove the paddle. And the paddle is actually skinnier then a stock clutch so could explain the extended bedding process but like i say i cant confirm this.

My old cg 4 paddle was 2nd hand and used a luk pressure plate with that. Gripped from the word go.

The drive torque pressure plate just looks like a painted unit. Theres nothing overly special about it. Pressure surface hasnt been machined or anything to mske it look different from oem. Paint dosnt seem to even have been applied neatly like the unit was in one piece when painted.

[mattydturb]

Yeah I did notice the luk badge on the plate and where did u spray the brake cleaner into the housing I ain't got a clue lol

[dr_jekyll]

Yeah I did notice the luk badge on the plate and where did u spray the brake cleaner into the housing I ain't got a clue lol

Theres an inspection hole ontop under the loom but best bet is whip the starter out on the three bolts and spray from there. Have someone pump the clutch too

[mattydturb]

Cheers mate spot on nice one for the info

[dr_jekyll]

Cheers mate spot on nice one for the info

No prob fella. asked more then my fair share of questions to people lol

[mattydturb]

Aha what goes around comes around good luck with ur project dude

[dr_jekyll]

Just a small add on to the thread. Been struggerling with wheel shake ever since changing back to "normal" tyres. Wheels were balanced etc but i was unable to fit my old spiggot rings on the back.
Long storry short managed to find some spiggot rings today and finally set about modifying my rallye centercaps to fit.

Mod they needed to fit was pretty simple. Just a case of filling the backs down to give them a lower profile and biting point on the nuts


took the car out for a test drive and theres still steering wheel shake around 70/80mph. What would cause this? Is it possible of shat wheel weights off already?

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Should add before redoing the spigots today there was steering wheel shake from 60mph +

[dr_jekyll]

Well im pleased recieved my jammapic stage 3 file so just need to pull my finger out, get some cash and have this stainless exhaust made!
Still a way off this yet but it is certianly falling into place

[7057sam]

Nice

What sort of power should it put out after that ?

[dr_jekyll]

Nice

What sort of power should it put out after that ?

200bhp 340lbft. Will be conservative and say 190bhp because of the tired engine

[MY95]

Jesus that should fly! Videos needed when complete

[welshpug]

I'd get rid of those wheel nuts asap before the wheels fall off, they are utter garbage

[Jonny81191]

I'd get rid of those wheel nuts asap before the wheels fall off, they are utter garbage

Interesting, what's the issue with them?

[welshpug]

cheap Chinese alloy, saw some last week that had a crack down the thread fresh from the packaging without even fitting them! another from the same set didn't have any threads cut!

[Jonny81191]

Noted, which manufacturer?

[dr_jekyll]

I'd get rid of those wheel nuts asap before the wheels fall off, they are utter garbage

Whats up with these wheel bolts??
Firstly there nuts not bolts. Secondly there steel not alloy. Thirdly i suspect your talking about d1 wheel nuts from which youve probably ordered them from ebay, in which case yes there cheap chinese crap because youve just bought a counterfit car part. Bought the same wheel nuts donks back and there not genuine d1 nuts. Infact very dangerous copys. Only way genuines can be obtained is through d1 now directly

[welshpug]

im not a jap tuner fanboy

[dr_jekyll]

im not a jap tuner fanboy

Japs dont tend to tune diesel and how am i?
Whats the issue with the nuts then?

[dr_jekyll]

Couple more bits sorted today. Been having some charginging issues recently that have been intermitten. Started of seeming like belt slip. Bitch would sit and squeal every morning on start up and you could phisically watch the volts increase once the audiable noise had gone. Neglected this for a month before changing so once it had been changed and the volts were reading between 13.3 and 13.7 volts i just pressumed the battery was tired and a halfords drop test confirmed my alternator was good and battery was slack... well lets fast forward. Still havnt got a new battery yet so volts have been down and the car needed a jump this morning. Now after jumping it i decided just to bung the lead from the block to the chassis just to see if an earth had anything to do with it..... allow and behold it did [FACE SCREAMING IN FEAR] so way to make myself look like an idiot [THUMBS UP SIGN]

Top wire is the oem earth and bottom is the replacement. When i moved the battery to the boot i replaced the power cable with the thicker merc unit shown in the picture and also fashioned thos into an earth for the battery to the boot. But as stated had overlooked the engine to chassis earth so lesson learnt i suppose.

Right some people may have seen my rant about the "arie pronk" strut brace that was purchased for part of my xmas present it had been bugging the shit out of me so when i was presented with the chance today i gave it another crack.
As tom stated in the thread about this the car it was tested on was a ph1 left hooker but sold as fully compatable between left and right and all phases. Should of clocked this but i didnt.

The major problem as shown was that the strut brace pushed against the reservior comprimising the seals to the point of leaking.

So when a friend was breaking a ph1 and offered me one for free i couldnt resist the chance to have a fiddle. Now im not sure if its the way ive made my brake lines, difference between phases or master cylinders but to fit the bottle my copper lines needed to be re-bent. after that it went straight on. Re-bled the brakes, checked the sensor worked and checked for leaks. Spot on and seems fine [THUMBS UP SIGN]
So back to the brace. With the bottle no longer rubbing it seems to fit "alright" (very tight to fit)

Any way currently waiting to hear from paypal wether or not i can get a refund and have to send this back. I know the bottle seems like a pointless excersise but it was either play with the car and pretend it needed to be fixed or or clean the house [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]

[Eeyore]

so its a standard phase 1 bottle that you need to fit these braces? happy now its on?

[dr_jekyll]

so its a standard phase 1 bottle that you need to fit these braces? happy now its on?

Yeah. No idea if phase 3 brake lines would need altering to fit it.
I am but now ive set paypal into motion it could be a case of take it off and send it back or im denied the refund for X reason (kinda think i will be as its a custom part and paypal states custom parts are not covered). Only time will tell on that note.
Still think people will be put off by having to change bottle just to fit a brace lol

[Seb_Ryan]

But why do you need a refund now? Its fitted? If you wanted a refund you shouldn't have f*cked about trying to fit it.

[dr_jekyll]

But why do you need a refund now? Its fitted? If you wanted a refund you shouldn't have f*cked about trying to fit it.

Dunno can you just tell paypal to sod off? Lmao

[Eeyore]

But why do you need a refund now? Its fitted? If you wanted a refund you shouldn't have f*cked about trying to fit it.

Dunno can you just tell paypal to sod off? Lmao

yea you will be able to say case resolved or close the case.

[dr_jekyll]

But why do you need a refund now? Its fitted? If you wanted a refund you shouldn't have f*cked about trying to fit it.

Dunno can you just tell paypal to sod off? Lmao

yea you will be able to say case resolved or close the case.

Oh ok didnt know that [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY] like i said was the first time ive ever chased someone through paypal

[dr_jekyll]

Right, havnt made no progress yo lack of funds but managed tobput the order in for my stainless exhaust parts last night. After looking at pictures a friend supplied think ive managed to work out what i need.
I made the call to run this exhaust as close to oem as possible, she's gonna be loud enough without drawing attention to the smoke and exhaust tips from the back. This means the backbox will finish under the car and point to the floor out of sight, should paint some good black lines [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]
Right so the list of components ive bought to make this exhaust are as follows:
- 3x 1mtr stainless lentghs 63mm
- 4x 45° stainless bends 63mm
- 1x vband clamp 63mm
- 1x flexi 63mm
- 1x profusion silencer
- 1x 1mtr stainless 8mm rod
Managed to order all these bits for £150. The quality isnt so great on the longer sections only being 441 grade and the 45° are actually the same 304 grade sanitary fittings i use at work. But anything to keep the cost down [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]

As for the inlet hoping to make use of this bit of 3" stainless i was donated. Will be very tight downt the back of the engine but believe its do-able.

[Poodle]

Are you aware that only certain grades of stainless weld together well? I don't know enough about it to tell you what's what, but you need certain rods depending on what you're mixing. There are charts kicking about on the internet that tell you - would link you, but haven't got time.

[dr_jekyll]

Are you aware that only certain grades of stainless weld together well? I don't know enough about it to tell you what's what, but you need certain rods depending on what you're mixing. There are charts kicking about on the internet that tell you - would link you, but haven't got time.

Ohhhhh didnt know that [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY] f*ck

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Is it possible to weld 304 to 441? Its being mig'd

[bashbarnard]

Isn't different gas and wire recommended to weld stainless as well. Look through stefs thread on his 205. I'm sure there is something in there about it.

[dr_jekyll]

Isn't different gas and wire recommended to weld stainless as well. Look through stefs thread on his 205. I'm sure there is something in there about it.

Will do. Guy whos welding it said it should be fine. Jusy one bits gonna rust before the rest [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]