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Haha got any running videos? Is it a bitch to get 3" to fit in the tunnel? Pretty low and dont have the best roads here
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Have a look in the project thread, these some video of on the dyno and at pugfest though the video doesn't do the sound justice IMO.
It is fairly tight in the tunnel, Jonny made it up and did a good good TBF. Next time i have it on the ramp ill try and get some pics for you
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(24-12-2015, 03:19 PM)Frosty Wrote: Have a look in the project thread, these some video of on the dyno and at pugfest though the video doesn't do the sound justice IMO.
It is fairly tight in the tunnel, Jonny made it up and did a good good TBF. Next time i have it on the ramp ill try and get some pics for you Yes please!
Will have a peek in a mo. Just gonna miss my back box, makes mine sound raspy as fook
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you want a 3" downpipe and then 2.5" for the rest. There is no benefit at all to a full 3" system until you get to maybe 400hp. The exhaust will help emp more so than the egt unless the current one is really restrictive.
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(24-12-2015, 04:30 PM)HDi--Power Wrote: you want a 3" downpipe and then 2.5" for the rest. There is no benefit at all to a full 3" system until you get to maybe 400hp. The exhaust will help emp more so than the egt unless the current one is really restrictive. Ok, about to have a lay underneath and see
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Oh fair, in which case you might as well i guess.
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24-12-2015, 04:42 PM
(This post was last modified: 24-12-2015, 04:42 PM by dr_jekyll.)
Ouch!!!
Well it seems ive massivley overlooked my biggest restriction on the whole build [DISAPPOINTED FACE]
Largest part of the exhaust measures 51mm, worst bend comes in at 45mm. taking into consideration 1/1.5mm wall thickness thats an i.d of 42mm (about 1.6")....
So realising i deffinatley need an exhaust added to my list is there any harm in going 3"?
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It shouldnt hurt power but the gas velocity will be much lower so it wont sound very good on full chat and will be much heavier and harder to route than 2.5". If you have the materials free sure but if buying there are no benefits, only downsides.
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24-12-2015, 04:51 PM
(This post was last modified: 24-12-2015, 05:08 PM by dr_jekyll.)
Will be having to buy everything. By going 2.5 will i not hinder gas and thus raise egt's? Sorry just trying to understand this lol
Ngl 2.5" would be hand as thats my target size for the inlet
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Pretty sure zx volcane passed 200bhp with a 2.5" and no issues iirc, and that's on a xud. It will be a slight restriction, but really shouldn't cause a problem. Look at exhausts on stock applications, there's various german diesels making over 200bhp on a sub-2.5" system with a load of restrictive filters and silencers in the way.
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wrc cars are making significantly more on about 3"
far more torque than an xud could ever dream off too, through a 32mm restrictor
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Soooo we saying 2.5 is fine?
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Pretty sure ZX went to a 3 inch pipe a couple of months back and gained 10bhp...
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2.5 is fine - 3" downpipe if you want to... 3" sounds a little on the farty side due to the lack of gas velocity, the latter is adequate and will sound good on anything sub 210hp or so IMHO.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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(24-12-2015, 11:53 PM)Ruan Wrote: 2.5 is fine - 3" downpipe if you want to... 3" sounds a little on the farty side due to the lack of gas velocity, the latter is adequate and will sound good on anything sub 210hp or so IMHO. 2.5" it tis then. Can i come across any probs having my induction the same size?
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2.5" will be perfect, but make a 3" downpipe. That's where the gains are to be had.
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Not a prob tempted to have a bolt in cat/decat pipe made just to keep the mot testers happy. Will supply a perfect point to drop size
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(24-12-2015, 11:54 PM)dr_jekyll Wrote: (24-12-2015, 11:53 PM)Ruan Wrote: 2.5 is fine - 3" downpipe if you want to... 3" sounds a little on the farty side due to the lack of gas velocity, the latter is adequate and will sound good on anything sub 210hp or so IMHO. 2.5" it tis then. Can i come across any probs having my induction the same size?
From my experience, keep the inlet as large as physically possible, I've seen more gains from improving the inlet than exhaust in total honesty... No shitty corrugated pipe, as large as you can physically do, even if it means engineering a better way... People always forget about the inlet system and just assume banging a k&n on will do the trick.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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(25-12-2015, 10:41 AM)Ruan Wrote: (24-12-2015, 11:54 PM)dr_jekyll Wrote: (24-12-2015, 11:53 PM)Ruan Wrote: 2.5 is fine - 3" downpipe if you want to... 3" sounds a little on the farty side due to the lack of gas velocity, the latter is adequate and will sound good on anything sub 210hp or so IMHO. 2.5" it tis then. Can i come across any probs having my induction the same size?
From my experience, keep the inlet as large as physically possible, I've seen more gains from improving the inlet than exhaust in total honesty... No shitty corrugated pipe, as large as you can physically do, even if it means engineering a better way... People always forget about the inlet system and just assume banging a k&n on will do the trick.
K&n? *cough* no idea what you mean [FACE WITH TEARS OF JOY]
Was thinking again 63mm (2.5") same size as the turbo inlet and will be ran in stainless tubing, dunno wether to weld it solid or just run silicone joins. Spose here the major thing affected will be ease of fitting
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Are u still running the drive torque stage 3 clutch I have the exact same clutch running a stage 2 map and mine slips under full load in 3Rd 4th n 5th not so bad in 3Rd but I've done 1000miles now and it's still the same it gets better when warm just wondered does your still slip lol
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27-12-2015, 06:11 PM
(This post was last modified: 27-12-2015, 06:17 PM by dr_jekyll.)
Yes i have, yours a fresh clutch?
(27-12-2015, 06:10 PM)mattydturb Wrote: Are u still running the drive torque stage 3 clutch I have the exact same clutch running a stage 2 map and mine slips under full load in 3Rd 4th n 5th not so bad in 3Rd but I've done 1000miles now and it's still the same it gets better when warm just wondered does your still slip lol Yours new?
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Yes mate got it off ebay from A company called lark speed
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(27-12-2015, 06:19 PM)mattydturb Wrote: Yes mate got it off ebay from A company called lark speed Yup exact same as mine but went to larkspeed directly. No matter what you say its your fault with these guys and there not useful at all.
Took 1200mile for mine to bed in (city movement). My tips are unleash some cans of brake cleaner in the bell housing (clutch pressed). Turn down the boost and drive sensibly. After a couple of hundred mile begin dropping the clutch into gears so it lumps a little. Turn the boost back up and drive normally again. And then start dropping the clutch in gear changes.
Was just under 800 miles solve it like this. These clutches appear to be abit false in the bedding in peruod they suggest of 300 city miles. If your like me after it should have bedded in youve attempted to boot it and actually glazed the clutch because it hadnt finished bedding.
Ive now done 6k on mine since the slipping at its been a very nice clutch since the problem, very drivable too unlike the 4 paddle i had.
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Cheers for the info dude I'll try the brake cleaner option just getting a bit tired of not using the car to its full potential n btw sweet looking car u got man it's came a long way
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27-12-2015, 06:39 PM
(This post was last modified: 27-12-2015, 06:44 PM by dr_jekyll.)
(27-12-2015, 06:37 PM)mattydturb Wrote: Cheers for the info dude I'll try the brake cleaner option just getting a bit tired of not using the car to its full potential n btw sweet looking car u got man it's came a long way Dude, hang in there. I actually nearly split my car for parts it pissed me off that much. It will clear up just dont get tempted to blip the throttle!
Cheers didnt happen over night but still got plenty planned for her
(27-12-2015, 06:37 PM)mattydturb Wrote: Cheers for the info dude I'll try the brake cleaner option just getting a bit tired of not using the car to its full potential n btw sweet looking car u got man it's came a long way Did you remember to clean all surfaces with brake cleaner when installing? The pressure plates actually have a thin layer of "show room" grease to prevent them rusting
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Keep up the good work man I'll be keeping an eye on this be sick to see a stage 3 estate
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(27-12-2015, 06:48 PM)mattydturb Wrote: Keep up the good work man I'll be keeping an eye on this be sick to see a stage 3 estate Already one out there, just very much a good sleeper unlike mine
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Forgot to ask does your clutch bite at the top or near the bottom
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(27-12-2015, 06:50 PM)mattydturb Wrote: Forgot to ask does your clutch bite at the top or near the bottom Near the top. Bit of a bitch for it, apparently a new cable helps it because of the autoadjusters but never changed mine
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27-12-2015, 06:55 PM
(This post was last modified: 27-12-2015, 06:58 PM by mattydturb.)
Yep same as mine I put a new cable on aswell just thought it was a bit strange as most clutchs are near the bottom also how did you spray brake cleaning in the housing I ain't got a clue lol
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