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I've put it down to a slipping clutch. I had a load of weight in the car and it was slipping badly. Might of been the egr valve as letting by as well
When the clutch slips it throws up a fault code. I got a feeling it backs off the power.
Engine speed and vss speed unsynchronised
(08-03-2015, 08:22 PM)MY95 Wrote: You fitting a bigger turbo in the long run or staying with the standard one?
Standard one for the meanwhile, but who knows in the future
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Night and day difference with this on
Pulls better from lower down and feels happier up the Rev range.
I was looking at the old pipe that goes from the inlet to turbo and it goes down to near 1" at one point.
Just need to fabricate the back box now.
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Word of warning, that top rubber 406 pipe will probably need changing for a hard pipe in future or at least something underneath it to stop it rubbing. It'll be fine off, but when the engines running the pipe expands under boost and will rub on the thermostat housing. Eventually it'll wear though
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Ok thanks for the heads up. I think I've got enough spares to replace it now
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In fairness ours has been on for years and only just rubbing through, but don't really want a hole in the thermostat housing lol. Will be swapping to a hard pipe myself soon.
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Unplugged the MAF this morning as it was a bit temperamental on whether it wanted accelerate or not.
Goes better down low so a new MAF is needed
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Top work nice use of pipe clamps too, you a pipe fitter?
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What makes you say that! Glad you didn't say plumber
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Just purely the use of that style of clamp and stud iron perfect for the job though...
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A lot of people don't know what a pipe fitter is so hats off to you sir!
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(14-03-2015, 06:54 AM)Paul_13 Wrote: A lot of people don't know what a pipe fitter is so hats off to you sir!
No, hats off to you mate. Do a bit myself, and have worked with a coded pipefitter/fabricator. Very skilled lad, and obviously his welding is second to none.
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looks a good install need to get a list and start collecting bits to get one on mine.... knew i should of bought a 110 not the 90 grrr lol
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Come on then, where did you get the I/C and pipes from?
On the clutch, what exactly do you need to convert to XUD one? Does the arm have to be from an XUD, or can I steal one from one of my many BE3/6 boxes?
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Use a GTi-6 flywheel, clutch arm and fork Alan which you should have in the garage - that's what I did on my 306 HDi.
(GTi-6, S16 and TD all share the same pull-type clutch setup)
1990 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1991 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 16v // 1992 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1999 Peugeot 306 HDi Estate
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(18-03-2015, 02:43 PM)Alan_M Wrote: Come on then, where did you get the I/C and pipes from?
On the clutch, what exactly do you need to convert to XUD one? Does the arm have to be from an XUD, or can I steal one from one of my many BE3/6 boxes?
I've been meaning to do a list of the bits I've used.
I'll get round to it at some point.
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Don't forget to swap the clutch cable for a dturbo /6 item
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Any reason why you cannot fit the I/C & pipework and run on a stage 1 map?
I ask, because I'm pulling the subframe off mine soon to fit a VTS rack, and the bumper to sort the A/C. I could fit the I/C etc at the same time.
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That's what I'm doing Alan, stage 1 with intercooler.
I've found it makes a fair difference
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(21-03-2015, 02:23 PM)Paul_13 Wrote: That's what I'm doing Alan, stage 1 with intercooler.
I've found it makes a fair difference
I better get ordering then.....
D'you think there is enough room for the A/C and standard fans to stay? I see you've got rid of the A/C.
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You might get away with retaining the AC rad. But definitely not the fans
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Boosting nicely at 13-14psi
Next job manual boost controller
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WORST
PHOTO
EVERRRRRRRRR!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
[to be read in comic book guy voice]
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I know, I know...
JP I'll be in touch about the stage 2 map
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If you've got a KO3, I wouldn't bother with the MBC.. you can adjust it with a medium length 10mm (iirc?) spanner from below pretty easily.
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I'll have a look thanks but if it's the same turbo as Powerandtorque has, I don't think thats an option
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I understand there's 2 different types of turbos on hdi's. Is it the same difference between the t2 and kkk on a dturbo?
One has an actuator arm, the other built in?
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21-04-2015, 07:00 PM
(This post was last modified: 21-04-2015, 07:01 PM by shervo.)
You will have either a gt15 or k03.
Ko3 is two nuts both 10mm iirc
Gt15 cas a circlip and a thumb screw to adjust. Either way fitting a mbc is best because then you can adjust easily from the top.
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When you say 2 nuts? As in a kkk turbo on a dturbo?
Sorry I'm struggling to get my head around it
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Like that?
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