My first ever attempt at a light restoration

[blaze_the_6]

once you have got it mechanically sorted, your half way there! be nice to do a phase 1 as not many people really revert to the phase1, in fact I haven't seen a gti6 reverted to a phase 1, so maybe you could be the 1st.
Take your time, and enjoy the build, that's what the lads do on here.

Its quite hard to get phase 1 bits in scotland. That is the downside

[madwelshman]

I know this is a few pages into the thread now, but to be honest, I've only just seen and read this one.

At the end of the day, if you are happy with what you paid for a car that you wanted and a set of wheels with new tyres on, then who are any of us on her to tell you otherwise.

The car will probably never be worth what it will more than likely cost you to do to the standard you are talking of wanting, but that applies to 99% of projects.

So, enjoy the experience and more importantly, once it's all finished, enjoy the car.

These are just my own personal thoughts of course.

Will

[blaze_the_6]

Your personal thoughts happen to be concrete truths my friend. I originally bought it with the intention of replacing the head and slapping a new timing belt on.

But being the 90s hatch fan that I am, I wanted to turn her in to a minter. Its not just the price of the car and the wheels, I spend a pretty penny on a replacement engine, timing belt, clutch etc etc and that is just the start!

I wanted a fresh experience with this car and the value of the car does not mean much to me as I intend on keeping it (so it is almost invaluable to me).

Its the learning process also that im gaining from.

Everyone has an OCD side, and I think I just tapped in to it with this project.

Thanks for the post though bud and if you have a project of any kind, I would love to read it.

[madwelshman]

Your personal thoughts happen to be concrete truths my friend. I originally bought it with the intention of replacing the head and slapping a new timing belt on.

But being the 90s hatch fan that I am, I wanted to turn her in to a minter. Its not just the price of the car and the wheels, I spend a pretty penny on a replacement engine, timing belt, clutch etc etc and that is just the start!

I wanted a fresh experience with this car and the value of the car does not mean much to me as I intend on keeping it (so it is almost invaluable to me).

Its the learning process also that im gaining from.

Everyone has an OCD side, and I think I just tapped in to it with this project.

Thanks for the post though bud and if you have a project of any kind, I would love to read it.

Its the learning process also that im gaining from.

lol. This made me laugh. It's so easy to get carried away. You(people) start off thinking, I'll just do these few bits and then end up going OTT(not in a bad way, just much further than they planned) on details.

I haven't got a 306, I used to though, a 96 Meridian 1.9 TD 5dr.
I've just picked this up though and am in the process of getting it properly roadworthy (it has a long MOT already, but I wouldn't class it as safely roadworthy):
http://306oc.co.uk/forum/thread-27800.html

My other projects are all 70's Saabs and a 71 Hillman Avenger, so FAR too much to get on with and nowhere near enough time.

Keep up the good work mate and most importantly, enjoy doing it as much as possible.
Will

[blaze_the_6]

Well guys, my range of Bilt Hamber products arrived today and I have a couple of questions.

The deox gel instructions say that the product must be washed off after a few hours, but I have seen many people on here claim to leave it on their cars for roughly 24 hours and seal in with cling film.

I believe in following manufacturer instructions but seeing enthuisiasts do the 24 hour stint makes me wonder what to do.

My second question is, I am using Bilt Hamber Electrox is a primer as stated earlier. I am still slightly confused as to if I can paint over original paintwork or strip the paint off the entire bay as I hoped to key it and paint over it.

Basically, the only parts of the engine bay that im attempting to return to bare metal is the rust patches, but the instructions state that the Electrox must be applied to clean steel.

If it helps my case in any way, my second coating will be 2k epoxy mastic.

Thanks peeps

[madwelshman]

Sorry mate, can't help you on either of those I'm afraid.
Good to see you've gone for top quality stuff though.

[blaze_the_6]

Sorry mate, can't help you on either of those I'm afraid.
Good to see you've gone for top quality stuff though.

I hope the good quality stuff does the trick my friend. Im excited to see the results

I have removed the gearbox and engine, but I want to completely strip out the bay and take off the front wings and paint the lot.

Also slightly worried about my C pillar lol

[madwelshman]

Sounds like a good plan to me, especially as you intend to keep the car.

What's wrong with the 'C' pillar then?

[blaze_the_6]

They tend to start to rot on older 306's as im led to believe that that pre phase 3 cars did not have arch liners as standard. There is a slight rust stain coming through the carpet in the boot, but when I knock on the steel, it seems solid. Just having difficulty getting the C pillar trim off lol.

what Mileage has your van done?

[madwelshman]

I know under the boot floors tend to get a little dry and slight surface rust on some Peugeots. My previous 205's and 405's all have been like that.

The Partner has only done 177,000, so it's only just about run in now ;-)

[blaze_the_6]

I know under the boot floors tend to get a little dry and slight surface rust on some Peugeots. My previous 205's and 405's all have been like that.

The Partner has only done 177,000, so it's only just about run in now ;-)

Talking from experience, provided it has been looked after, that is bugger all for a NAD!

[procta]

if the C piller is holy then just plate it up pal and buy a later liner from the phase3, me and my dad put in a second hand inner arch in my old metro! laugh was that was easy compared to patching up the boot floor, as we thought the arch was going to be a bastard to do!

[madwelshman]

Yeh, they tend to go on to much higher mileages than that, as long as they're suitably fed and watered.

[blaze_the_6]

if the C piller is holy then just plate it up pal and buy a later liner from the phase3, me and my dad put in a second hand inner arch in my old metro! laugh was that was easy compared to patching up the boot floor, as we thought the arch was going to be a bastard to do!

Again, love your attitude towards a project, but I cant weld and I have high standards that I simply cannot accomplish with my lax skills at welding.

Surprised by the comment though, I thought the floors would be easier.

You dont happen to have any experience with Bilt Hamber products do you?

[procta]

no mate I don't, your better off seeing if there is a You tube video about it, as you do get some good shit on there.
I wouldn't use hammerite again, better off using stone chip as that's miles better.

[blaze_the_6]

no mate I don't, your better off seeing if there is a You tube video about it, as you do get some good shit on there.
I wouldn't use hammerite again, better off using stone chip as that's miles better.

Oh hell no mate, screw hammerite. Still cant believe you got a lotus engine in that Metro though, always had a soft spot for Metro's, but jesus, what a combo. Is it a well known combo like putting a c20xe in to a corsa for example?

[madwelshman]

I'm sure they must have altered the ingredients/content in Hammersh1te. It was (in my opinion) pretty good stuff when it first came out, but now. OMG!!!

[blaze_the_6]

I'm sure they must have altered the ingredients/content in Hammersh1te. It was (in my opinion) pretty good stuff when it first came out, but now. OMG!!!

An older diyer that lives down the road from me, deals with luxuary cars and still swears by it but then again, he swears by coca cola as a rust remover lol.

Bilt Hamber seems the rage these days bud so take note

Use my project thread in a years time as a guide lol as im doing everything to the tee. area temperatures and all.....

[madwelshman]

I will be keeping an eye on exactly how to use it and how effective it is, because when I make a start on my Saabs, each one will be stripped to a bare shell and any rust dealt with. Bilt Hamber will be my weapon of choice when I do as all the classics guys swear by it.

[blaze_the_6]

You seem smart enough to realise that I am a complete amateur, I will attempt to follow instructions as accurately as I can.
Use my attempts as ideas, not as fact.

Your in the SAAB game huh. make sure to link me the projects my man. What SAAB's are you restoring?

---

and for your reference, I'm using The Bilt Hamber products: Deox gel, Deox C, Surfex HD (Degreaser), Electrox zinc base coat and Hydrate 80 (Bilt Hambers Krust).

Obviously, I am wire wheeling to bare metal and using a flap disk on an angle grinder if I have to

[madwelshman]

I know what you're saying and fair play to you for tackling a project like you are with the ultimate aim of a showroom finish.
The hardest times I find are when you've got a million bits in front of you and nothing that really resembles the original/finished product.
But, when you start putting bits back together and can see things taking shape, it's such a boost (for me anyway).

Saabs, mmm, I have a few. Below is a list of all my cars/projects.

1970 Saab 99 2dr saloon - originally 1850cc - will be 2.0 16v n/a with 5 speed box (eventually)
1970 Hillman Avenger 4dr saloon - originally 1500cc and standard - now 1600cc Sunbeam Ti engine, lightened and balanced, genuine ex works big valve ported/flowed head, road rally cam, twin webers, deep dish Ford steels and sat slightly lower. Pulls to 8000rpm, been clocked at over 120mph and still going
1974 Saab 96 saloon - 1500cc V4 engine, dry stored by previous owner since 1986.
1975 Saab 99 EMS 2dr saloon - 1985cc injection, a rare car now. Mot ran out September, back on the road Jan/Feb 2015.
1976 Saab 99 EMS 2dr saloon - 1985cc injection, as above rare car now. Previous owner took off road in 1997
1981 Saab 99 Turbo 2dr Saloon - 1985cc Turbo injection. Only 200 Black 2dr Turbos imported into the UK. Previous owner took of the road many in the mid 90's. Bought as f@kt shell, non runner, totally fubar.
1984 Saab 99 GL 2dr Saloon - 1985cc single carb 5speed. Excellent shell to be used to re-shell above Turbo.

[blaze_the_6]

"1981 Saab 99 Turbo 2dr Saloon" THIS!!! that is my language. they are all very respectabe projects and I also admire the amount you are taking on.

I want showroom finish, but ultimately, at my skill level, I wil aim for preserving with the hope of a near show room exterior and as new mechanical workings.

The v4 74 also sounds different and appealing, but to be honest, they all are!

Get some of your progress up on the non 306 projects!

Im taking plenty of pictures as I go before I dismantle.

[306Dan]

Well guys, my range of Bilt Hamber products arrived today and I have a couple of questions.

The deox gel instructions say that the product must be washed off after a few hours, but I have seen many people on here claim to leave it on their cars for roughly 24 hours and seal in with cling film.

I believe in following manufacturer instructions but seeing enthuisiasts do the 24 hour stint makes me wonder what to do.

My second question is, I am using Bilt Hamber Electrox is a primer as stated earlier. I am still slightly confused as to if I can paint over original paintwork or strip the paint off the entire bay as I hoped to key it and paint over it.

Basically, the only parts of the engine bay that im attempting to return to bare metal is the rust patches, but the instructions state that the Electrox must be applied to clean steel.

If it helps my case in any way, my second coating will be 2k epoxy mastic.

Thanks peeps

Lay the deox gel on nice and thick and put cling film over the top, if you can keep it shaded too even better, I've left it like this for 4 days once when I got really busy at work and still came off a treat with the hose pipe and a paint brush.
A tip with the hydrate 80 that a lot of people seem to forget is degrease the panel first otherwise it "fisheyes" of sorts and won't protect as well as it could.

[blaze_the_6]

Well guys, my range of Bilt Hamber products arrived today and I have a couple of questions.

The deox gel instructions say that the product must be washed off after a few hours, but I have seen many people on here claim to leave it on their cars for roughly 24 hours and seal in with cling film.

I believe in following manufacturer instructions but seeing enthuisiasts do the 24 hour stint makes me wonder what to do.

My second question is, I am using Bilt Hamber Electrox is a primer as stated earlier. I am still slightly confused as to if I can paint over original paintwork or strip the paint off the entire bay as I hoped to key it and paint over it.

Basically, the only parts of the engine bay that im attempting to return to bare metal is the rust patches, but the instructions state that the Electrox must be applied to clean steel.

If it helps my case in any way, my second coating will be 2k epoxy mastic.

Thanks peeps

Lay the deox gel on nice and thick and put cling film over the top, if you can keep it shaded too even better, I've left it like this for 4 days once when I got really busy at work and still came off a treat with the hose pipe and a paint brush.
A tip with the hydrate 80 that a lot of people seem to forget is degrease the panel first otherwise it "fisheyes" of sorts and won't protect as well as it could.

Thanks for the info mate, will use the surfex again after I use the deox gel.

Could you also shed some light on my electrox question as you seem in the know. Many thanks

[306Dan]

I can't really say on the electrox as I haven't used it before, I've heard good reviews and was under the impression it'd go over hydrate 80 or any other clean and prepped surface.

Just checked bilt hambers site and nothing saying it has to be bare metal I.e no hydrate. Looking at the usage guide I'd use electrox on anything that's been bare metal then use normal grey primer over the top.

Best thing I found for prepping the remaining paint in the bay is scotch bright pads works a treat and relatively cheap and most motor factors stock it.

[blaze_the_6]

I can't really say on the electrox as I haven't used it before, I've heard good reviews and was under the impression it'd go over hydrate 80 or any other clean and prepped surface.

Just checked bilt hambers site and nothing saying it has to be bare metal I.e no hydrate. Looking at the usage guide I'd use electrox on anything that's been bare metal then use normal grey primer over the top.

Best thing I found for prepping the remaining paint in the bay is scotch bright pads works a treat and relatively cheap and most motor factors stock it.

Dan, thanks very much for the info. Appreciated bud. You got any projects on the go?

[procta]

no mate I don't, your better off seeing if there is a You tube video about it, as you do get some good shit on there.
I wouldn't use hammerite again, better off using stone chip as that's miles better.

Oh hell no mate, screw hammerite. Still cant believe you got a lotus engine in that Metro though, always had a soft spot for Metro's, but jesus, what a combo. Is it a well known combo like putting a c20xe in to a corsa for example?

id say the c20xe corsa stuff is more common up our end of the country, as vvc metros are more common down south.
but I think the vvc metro scene is starting to fade out now, as they are worth more standard than modified now.

remember to use the brush on sealant stuff too when you do repairs as that will help you too. I have used that stuff on my gta to keep it all clean and it adds that bit extra protection too.

[306Dan]

I can't really say on the electrox as I haven't used it before, I've heard good reviews and was under the impression it'd go over hydrate 80 or any other clean and prepped surface.

Just checked bilt hambers site and nothing saying it has to be bare metal I.e no hydrate. Looking at the usage guide I'd use electrox on anything that's been bare metal then use normal grey primer over the top.

Best thing I found for prepping the remaining paint in the bay is scotch bright pads works a treat and relatively cheap and most motor factors stock it.

Dan, thanks very much for the info. Appreciated bud. You got any projects on the go?

I have many projects on the go, infact too many

My cherry 306
Transalp xl600v
Moto Roma sk125
Turbo charged go kart

[blaze_the_6]

no mate I don't, your better off seeing if there is a You tube video about it, as you do get some good shit on there.
I wouldn't use hammerite again, better off using stone chip as that's miles better.

Oh hell no mate, screw hammerite. Still cant believe you got a lotus engine in that Metro though, always had a soft spot for Metro's, but jesus, what a combo. Is it a well known combo like putting a c20xe in to a corsa for example?

id say the c20xe corsa stuff is more common up our end of the country, as vvc metros are more common down south.
but I think the vvc metro scene is starting to fade out now, as they are worth more standard than modified now.

remember to use the brush on sealant stuff too when you do repairs as that will help you too. I have used that stuff on my gta to keep it all clean and it adds that bit extra protection too.

C20XE Corsa's are/were as common as muck here. Thanks for the tip, im using rust buster epoxy mastic 2k over electrox on the whole bay and any other repairs. I plan to also use stone chip on top of that lol followed by clear coat. Im all for preserving.

[madwelshman]

"1981 Saab 99 Turbo 2dr Saloon" THIS!!! that is my language. they are all very respectabe projects and I also admire the amount you are taking on.

I want showroom finish, but ultimately, at my skill level, I wil aim for preserving with the hope of a near show room exterior and as new mechanical workings.

The v4 74 also sounds different and appealing, but to be honest, they all are!

Get some of your progress up on the non 306 projects!

Im taking plenty of pictures as I go before I dismantle.

Saabs are definitely a marmite car, You either love them or hate them. I love them (as you can tell).
Progress, uh, very little so far. When I'm back in work and got a regular income again and hopefully some free time, then I hope to make a more definite start on the Silver 75 99 EMS ready for the Practical Classics National Resto show in March.
The Black 99 2dr Turbo is going to be a 'one day' project.
I will put some project threads on there as and when I make a start though.