The toy, 306GTI trackday racer. *Dial-up warning: Picture heavy*

[Janne L]

Can anyone confirm that the GTI 6 uses a 3 bar fuel pressure regulator?

[lolsteve]

Haha blutac in the ecu
Why are you opening the ecu to chip can these not be done via the obd port?

[Janne L]

Nope, no obd port on ph1, the chip has to be programmed outside of the ecu. Same goes for later models.
I just opened it to have a look since I noticed the box was sealed with hotglue and that got me curious :-)

[RetroPug]

Yes the FPR regulates it to 3bar from reading the gti6 forum (which I strongly recommend signing up to due to the excellent gti6-specific knowledge and FAQs).

[Janne L]

Been on there a few years now, but it's slow death makes me go here instead :-)

[powerandtorque]

Can anyone confirm that the GTI 6 uses a 3 bar fuel pressure regulator?

As said, 3 bar FPR on 306 GTi-6 and 1997-2000 (Phase 1) Xsara VTS

Worth noting that the 2001-2005 (Phase 2) Xsara VTS uses a 3.5 bar FPR despite having an almost identical engine, so check what's fitted if you end up fitting an engine and/or fuel rail from a different XU10J4RS engine.

[RetroPug]

Been on there a few years now, but it's slow death makes me go here instead :-)

It might not be that active but you can find the answer to 99% of questions by quickly searching there...most of the time you don't need membership to see the threads anyway.

[Janne L]

Can anyone confirm that the GTI 6 uses a 3 bar fuel pressure regulator?

As said, 3 bar FPR on 306 GTi-6 and 1997-2000 (Phase 1) Xsara VTS

Worth noting that the 2001-2005 (Phase 2) Xsara VTS uses a 3.5 bar FPR despite having an almost identical engine, so check what's fitted if you end up fitting an engine and/or fuel rail from a different XU10J4RS engine.

Yes the FPR regulates it to 3bar from reading the gti6 forum (which I strongly recommend signing up to due to the excellent gti6-specific knowledge and FAQs).

Thanx

[RetroPug]

No problem. You're not thinking of going aftermarket are you? I've heard nothing but bad things about them...

[Janne L]

I'll see what i can get a hold of, but it has to be replaced, that i know

[RetroPug]

I'd strongly suggest getting a good 2nd hand one or new genuine one if you can. I've heard nothing but bad things about both variable aftermarket ones and pattern part ones. Should be able to pick up a 2nd hand fuel rail with one attached off of someone in the UK for 10-15 pounds plus postage.

How do you know yours is not working correctly?

[Janne L]

It was stuck in the fuel rail and I forced it out a year ago or so, so It's physically damaged, oops 0:-)

[RetroPug]

Oh, oops!
A good 2nd hand one should be fine and the most inexpensive route I'd have thought.

[Janne L]

Absolutely! if the aftermarket ones on eBay that cost around £25 are as bad as you say then it's a no brainer :-)

[Janne L]

Tore in to the engine this evening, plan was to get the head of and see how the number 2 piston/cylinder looked.
Here's what I found

The scratch can be felt with a fingernail but doesn't seem to be so deep that it cant be honed away with DIY equipment

A fair few dings in the piston top, this is from an old injury when a spark plug broke and pieces fell into the cylinder and banged around a bit, after that incident the head was repaired but not the bottom end.


To be continued :-)

[Janne L]

Pistons and rods left the block tonight, and a few other things that were in the way. The cylinder walls don't look bad at all and I've now decided on honing the block myself.
For reference if anyone is interested, the weights of my complete piston/rod assemblies are:
1: 1266
2: 1264
3: 1267
4: 1267
I'll be taking a few grams of 3 of them to get them all within the same gram, should give a smoother ride :-)

Having a diesel bath until I return to loosen all that nasty soot :-)

[Janne L]

Spent the evening in the garage, cleaned up the pistons and removed the crankshaft.
Piston number two was a real b*tch to get clean but I managed eventually.
Had a closer look at all the bearings, the main bearings all looked good but they'll be replaced anyway.
The rod bearings all showed some wear with number one looking really bad.
The crankshaft journals all looked great so I'm not worried about them.

[Janne L]

With a lot of elbow grease the soot finally left of the pistons, took me a couple of hours but I think it's worth it as they're now nice and clean, and ready for what's coming next :-)


Stripped the head yesterday and found that all exhaust and two intake valves have been replaced, and that two exhaust valves still needs replacing, fortunately the valve seats seem to be OK.
Oh and there is a good one mm layer of soot in the exhaust runners, hard stuff I'll have to scrape out. I'm guessing it comes from the advanced cam timing and abusive life it's lived under my care :-)

[Janne L]

Ugly welds? Sure! I can do that!


When you're as cheap as me, you have to improvise. It worked without too much hassle, but I'll make a mk2 model before assembly.

[Janne L]

Finished my fuel swirl pot, TIG welding can be tricky, I'm really good at dipping the electrode in the puddle! And at touching the electrode with the filler rod! Everyone has to be good at something! :-P



What could be going on here?

[Janne L]

Lapping in valves, even new ones, is a right pain in the rear!
2 down, 14 to go...

[Piggy]

Keep at it fella.
I secretly want my bottom end to blow (!) so I can do all this again. I love it!!
It will be all worth it!
Just dont cut corners anywhere now!

[Dum-Dum]

How many track miles/hours had it taken you to get the tyres to the state below?
Do you use them on the road as well?

[Janne L]

5000km total, 3000 of them with severe toe in issues.
About 10h on track, 4 of those with the above mentioned issue.
Since i adjust my toe the wear almost stopped entirely.

[Dum-Dum]

So about 3100miles and 10 hours of track or 3100 miles IS 10 hours on track?

Actually just done the maths in my head, there is no way you were averaging 310mph on track.


Thats really not too bad at all. Definitely getting myself a set now.

[Janne L]

When being skint just doesn't cut it:

[Poodle]

Quality!

[Janne L]

Progress has been slow since the beginning of December, my gal fell ill and I've had a hard time finding the needed inspiration and finances to work on the car. Thankfully things are moving in the right direction.

Me and a friend dropped the front subframe and I've started the process of cleaning it up in preparation for seam welding and paint.
Before:


After:


New rubbers for the front end:

[7057sam]

Nice to see you still cracking on with it

Are they vibratech p bushes??

[Janne L]

No, made in Germany by a company called Topran. Cheap as dirt, about 10 quid each.