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Go for an enclosed filter in the passenger side wheel arch perhaps?
Either by making a shield/airbox for your cone filter or by buying an off-the-shelf enclosed kit?
Either way, impressive stuff considering you've done this largely on your own and it must be hugely satisfying to be pretty much there!
This post is an artistic work of fiction and falsehood. Only a fool would take anything posted above as fact.
62k Diablo Phase 1 Gti-6: Project Thread
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Looked really neat Niall, I hope you can get those last bits tidied up for Pugfest.
Perhaps a better intercooler or cooling setup would sort things?!
Does seem a bit hot
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So not been up to too much with the of late. Just enjoying that noise. Have a nice rattle from the rear beam which turns out to be a wrecked ARB end plate so will get that sorted. Also ordered a new charger snout coupler as mine was worn causing the rotors to clatter.
Before pugfest I hope to have my oil cooler moved to drop the IC temps and have a air scoop made up which I hope to do this week.
Oh and also may have just bought these...
[attachment=17244]
310mm rotors and bells with Megane RS mono block 4 pot callipers
As much as I love the hispecs, bigger is better. Or so my missus says!
Now just need to decide what colour they are going!
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Ooooo nice stoppers!!!
I like the gold of the hispecs
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Haha awesome. What set of brakes will it be next month :p
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(29-06-2014, 07:59 PM)ozonehostile Wrote: Haha awesome. What set of brakes will it be next month :p
None i think these will be more than ample lol
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How big were your old 4 pots?
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Should of bought some nissans it's where the power is
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(29-06-2014, 08:02 PM)zx_volcane Wrote: How big were your old 4 pots?
Standard 6 brakes mate. 285mm. These are 310mm so should fit under the wheel with enough room for a rizla paper between the wheel and calliper lol
(29-06-2014, 08:02 PM)Stef205 Wrote: Should of bought some nissans it's where the power is
No because you have to mount them in a stupid place. And plus, its clear Nissans don't stop too well
http://youtu.be/-YhLtU-VEZk
:p
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That's why I've left the stock rear calipers on.
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(29-06-2014, 08:05 PM)Niall Wrote: Standard 6 brakes mate. 285mm. These are 310mm so should fit under the wheel with enough room for a rizla paper between the wheel and calliper lol
ahhh gotcha, didn't remember seeing any on before, blame confusing title
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Thought you were running hispec 4pots Niall?! im confused now
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(29-06-2014, 08:32 PM)Piggy Wrote: Thought you were running hispec 4pots Niall?! im confused now
I am. Ive got Hispec 4 pots at the moment but am upgrading to these Brembos
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Will they really be an upgrade tho??
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(29-06-2014, 08:35 PM)puglove Wrote: Will they really be an upgrade tho??
Yes quite substantially. For a start, the discs are much thicker leading to better cooling, the mono block calliper means a lot less flex in the calliper and the pistons are slightly bigger. And they look better
The hi specs although very very good, are pretty much at their max stopping weight with this car. They were only designed to stop up to 1200kg i believe.
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Iv never even looked into the specs of the midi lights
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(29-06-2014, 09:01 PM)puglove Wrote: Iv never even looked into the specs of the midi lights
If i remember correctly when i was looking for 4 pots, they are almost identical to the Hispecs just slightly lighter.
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IMO they are plenty good enough for my 6 , huge amount of stopping power, you going to have the brembos on for pugfest? would be intresting to see what they are like
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(29-06-2014, 09:07 PM)puglove Wrote: IMO they are plenty good enough for my 6 , huge amount of stopping power, you going to have the brembos on for pugfest? would be intresting to see what they are like
Unfortunately not. Wont be getting them until the end of July now but as always, will take plenty of photos lol. Will probably go gold again as well.
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Are you bastard where did you fit them
Been looking for same for ages, don't spose you want some 6 pots
Good luck with them over your turnini s
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You should try the 330 setup on mine with braided lines all round. It stops quicker than it goes lol.
Sounds like you've got a coolant or airflow problem there Niall. The thermostat is set to open at 83 degrees on a 6 so I'd be changing this as well as the rad for a nissens one. Also why are you using just water? Coolant helps extract the heat faster from the block (hence it's called coolant) and reduces hot spots within the engine.
I've had trouble keeping mine cool since fitting an enormous front mount last month (was on Sam's car) but have cracked it now and back down to normal running temps. Oil and water both at about 80 degrees and hardly go up when thrashing the arse off it.
Sam I've got some 406 brembos kicking about.... but not bells and rotors
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(02-07-2014, 09:34 PM)ArmzSC6 Wrote: You should try the 330 setup on mine with braided lines all round. It stops quicker than it goes lol.
Sounds like you've got a coolant or airflow problem there Niall. The thermostat is set to open at 83 degrees on a 6 so I'd be changing this as well as the rad for a nissens one. Also why are you using just water? Coolant helps extract the heat faster from the block (hence it's called coolant) and reduces hot spots within the engine.
I've had trouble keeping mine cool since fitting an enormous front mount last month (was on Sam's car) but have cracked it now and back down to normal running temps. Oil and water both at about 80 degrees and hardly go up when thrashing the arse off it.
Sam I've got some 406 brembos kicking about.... but not bells and rotors
Funny you should say all of that because today, progress!
Firstly, the stat was brand new genuine pug when the engine was built 1k ago and tested before it went in. It also opened exactly when the coolant hit 83 degrees today (had the laptop on monitoring)...
Anyway!
Nissens rad for this GTi was about £150 just because it had that poxy little pipe to the oil/water heat exchanger. Phoned around and eventually spoke to my local GSF who could get one in 2 hours. Asked for a discount and he said, err ok then how does £105 sound? Done!
[attachment=17334]
Like a kid at christmas. Sad right?
[attachment=17335]
Out with the old...and the oil cooler
[attachment=17336]
And in with the new plus relocated oil cooler to behind the rad.
Seeing as i will have all the keyboard warriors on my case about the cooler behind the rad, let me answer that one now.
I was not a fan of cutting holes in grills for air flow etc and want to keep the front of it looking as OEM+ as possible so i phoned Mocal who suggested banging it behind the rad. Providing there is airflow over it which there is and its as close to the rad as possible so air flow Is maintained through the rad and through the cooler, it will be fine and guess what? They were right
Went for a drive after bleeding it all and coolant doesn't budge past 87 degrees (yes coolant now, not just water lol) and oil temp is also a tad below 90 no matter how hard i spank it. Speaking of which, I've just done a quarter of a tank in 45 miles but what a fun 45 miles
Oh and also now i don't have a hot oil cooler in front of my intercooler, air temps have dropped as well
Just waiting for my GTT charger coupler to turn up, replace that to deal with that god awful noise that sounds like horrendous big end knock (trust me id know...) and then she's good to go to pugfest
Also after shortening my push fit oil cooler hoses, one of them now has a slight weep so may have to take a trip to Pirtek.
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Looking good mate that's a lot better. Much progress made there.
Personally I'd have mounted the oil cooler in the O/S fog light area next to the intercooler. My 13row setups been there for over a year and It works beautifully. Begin the rad means It won't get so much airflow but will still work.
Will raise engine bay temps though and I'd be trying to keep those as low as possible bearing in mind where your intake is.
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Air intake will be dealt with in due course (When i can be bothered basically).
As i said, I'm keen to keep it looking OEM so didn't want to loose a fog light but i did consider mounting it like you have.
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Now with the stupidly large cooler lol.
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Jesus I'm not surprised your having cooling issues!
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Lol it's fine now though Havnt tried it on a hot day. Looking at the lads running high boost coolers it's the exact same cooler but a few inches wider. Mine should actually let the rad get more airflow as the end tanks are on the outside of the radiator where as smaller ones are in front of it.
I've also got a charger fluid cooler behind it as well being a rotrex setup.
Was sat behind a lorry going a steady 50mph the other night and the coolant temp kept going down and down below 80 lol so it seems fine.
f*cking goes like stink now though..... I made my own bored out and knife edged throttle body a few months ago and having just fitted the 2.5" pipework and big cooler it's so much more torquey than it was.
Pulls a lot harder.
Was proven 250bhp on a 30 degree day with the small cooler setup so easily 260-270 now.
I'll be interested to see what yours goes like though. Wish mine made charger whine but you do get a nice boost noise similar to turbo spool.
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(02-07-2014, 10:29 PM)ArmzSC6 Wrote: Lol it's fine now though Havnt tried it on a hot day. Looking at the lads running high boost coolers it's the exact same cooler but a few inches wider. Mine should actually let the rad get more airflow as the end tanks are on the outside of the radiator where as smaller ones are in front of it.
I've also got a charger fluid cooler behind it as well being a rotrex setup.
Was sat behind a lorry going a steady 50mph the other night and the coolant temp kept going down and down below 80 lol so it seems fine.
f*cking goes like stink now though..... I made my own bored out and knife edged throttle body a few months ago and having just fitted the 2.5" pipework and big cooler it's so much more torquey than it was.
Pulls a lot harder.
Was proven 250bhp on a 30 degree day with the small cooler setup so easily 260-270 now.
I'll be interested to see what yours goes like though. Wish mine made charger whine but you do get a nice boost noise similar to turbo spool.
Tbh mine was never intended for 270ish. It was more a "Can i do this challenge" lol. If i wanted that sort of power, i would of gone for a M62 i think.
Still, I love the way mine drives. As you know, a rotrex is very much like driving a NA, just with more power but the way mine delivers power is much different and personally i love it!
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(02-07-2014, 09:34 PM)ArmzSC6 Wrote: Sounds like you've got a coolant or airflow problem there Niall. The thermostat is set to open at 83 degrees on a 6 so I'd be changing this as well as the rad for a nissens one. Also why are you using just water? Coolant helps extract the heat faster from the block (hence it's called coolant) and reduces hot spots within the engine.
For the record - that's absolutely not true at all.
"Coolant" is simply there to lower the freezing point and also as a corrosion inhibitor. Ethylene Glycol/Triethylene Glycol for example has a specific heat capacity of one half of water! That means it can carry half as much thermal energy given the same temperature rise as Water alone can.
Ethylene Glycol *does* increase the boiling point, but it's rarely needed since the pressurized cooling system does a nice job of raising the boiling point too!
The main point is that putting Anti-freeze in will not improve your cooling system, it's merely there to inhibit corrosion, harvesting of bacteria, and drop the freezing point.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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And lubricate the pump.
Custom roll cages/shiny suspension bits/general fabrication work undertaken, PM me.
Top engine mount repair/reinforcement/chocking for cracked chassis and high powered cars, drive in, drive out, 2 hour turnaround.
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