GT2052S project thread number three

[306Puggy]

Okay, since a certain nasty piece of work started an argument with me on my previous project thread and instead of removing him and having a quiet word with said cretin the mods decided to simply nuke my whole thread of painstakingly documenting my hard work and doing the hard jobs so that many others don't have to, I have to create a new one to continue documenting my struggles.

Since my thread was unexpectedly deleted, I have had to recalculate the costs of the project and divide it into the respective categories of money spent and money wasted on what and so forth. Here is the breakdown of the costs from the beginning of the project up to now (ready to bolt on):


Turbo project costs:

Main bits:


Old broken turbo £80 (Money wasted)

GT2052 £65

Oil feed pipe £55 (ripped off at Pirtek)

Welding est £50

Fuel to drive around here and there often fruitlessly est £20



Sub total: £270




Bits and bobs

Exhaust manifod £25

Drill £15

G clamps £10

HSS Drill bit £7.25

Metal steel plates

£15.60

EGT Sensor £15.50

8.5mm drill bit £1.78 (Money wasted)

1-10mm drill bit set

£6.70

Threadlock £3

Brake Cleaner £4.49

3 piece wire brush set £2.59

Blowtorch gas £7.50

M10 tap and die £10.99 (Money wasted)

Tap wrench £3.89

Exhaust manifold stud and nut £2.63

VW manifold stud £6.89 (Money wasted)

Drill bit £3.85

Holesaw £6.60

EGT Sensor adapter £6.12

12mm metric tap £9

Foot pump £5.99 (Money wasted)

Standard exhaust elbow £20 (Money wasted)

Stainless steel 90 degree exhaust elbow £12.50 (Money wasted)

10 pcs wet and dry sand paper £3.48

Exhaust pipe reducer £8.75 (Money wasted)

Air intake house for turbo £13

90 degree silicone reducer elbow £15.19

Universal air filter cone £9.99

High temperature gasket material £12

90 degree exhaust elbow TIGHT radius bend £24.24

M8 countersunk bolts £2.35

3pc drill bit set £6.50

Circular die £6.42 (Money wasted)

10 piece tap and die set £8.09

Oil return gasket £1.50

Turbo charger outlet oil flange £14.99 (Money wasted)

Turbo charger outlet oil flange TD04 (money wasted)

Intake/exhaust Manifold gasket £9.78

M8 tap £4.89

Hose clips £2.79

3 inch jubilee clip £3.76

K14 oil return £5

Hacksaw blades £6

Stanley blades £5

M8x1.25 die £3.50

Sub Total:

£381.59

Overall Total:

£381.59+270=£651.59



Total money wasted on stuff that I didn't end up using:

Old broken turbo £80 (bought it because it came off an Iveco turbo daily which was said to have the GT2056 turbo)

8.5mm drill bit £1.78 (was cheap and broke)

M10 tap and die £10.99 (I didn't need to thread the holes in the adapter plate in the end as first thought)

VW manifold stud £6.89 (Can't even remember what this was for)

Foot pump £5.99 (already had the exact same one in the broom cupboard)

Standard exhaust elbow £20 (Was gonna make an adapter to adapt the new 3 inch turbo elbow to the standard exhaust system but the general consensus was that it would be hella' restrictive so hence I didn't need the standard turbo elbow to model my 3inch one on. Not that it would have been much help now I think about it anyway)

Exhaust pipe reducer £8.75 (Again, bought for the purpose of adapting the new exhaust elbow to the standard exhaust system)

Circular die £6.42 (I wanted to rethread the exhaust housing to exhaust elbow studs but as it turns out the threads weren't that damaged and I could still get a nut on and tighten it up just fine)

Turbo charger outlet oil flange £14.99 (Totally bollocked it up, thought it was gonna be okay, turned out not to be)

Turbo charger outlet oil flange TD04 12.50 (was the wrong type, I thought it was supposed to fit but maybe I got it muddled up with a different one)

M8x1.25 die (bought in a panic, didn't think of using existing bolt to cut down into stud)

Total money wasted: £171.81

And this is without the exhaust even sorted out! If I can do that on the cheap (£100 or under) this is still likely to come to about £750 pounds!
Quite the shame but this is the reality of modding and unlike for some people my projects hardly ever go to plan.
I think I bought some side skirts once and sprayed them and they turned out nicely without costing the earth but that's all I can think of right now that hasn't ended up costing hundreds and hundreds.


So, now I am at the stage where I am ready to bolt on. I have received the correct oil return flange (at long last, third time lucky) and have smoothed the mating surface with sandpaper just to be extra sure it won't leak. Here are the photos of how it looks:





As you can see it is a little close to the adapter plate but I think it will be fine because I can adjust the clocking of the CHRA to suit. I have to go away for a few days at the end of the month so I won't be fitting it until next month. It seems like a friggin' comedy show doesn't it? Every time I get close it has taken so long to get to said stage that I can't risk taking my car off the road until after a certain date. I have no idea how long the fitting is gonna take or if I will need additional parts or even if it will work at all! My next update will probably be in regards to some obscure problem that comes up during the fitting process knowing my luck

[Tom]

Progress!

[Atterz]

My brain is fried with the first two paragraphs. I thought this was car forum for like minded enthusiasts, not a nursery full of bickering children. Dear oh dear.

[Mattcheese31]

just fit the turbo and lift the head will you . . bring an end to all this . . . . x

[Tom]

Mr Puggy is an expert when it comes to making friends.

[procta]

puggy I know what its like, wasting cash on parts you don't even need!

[Mattcheese31]

Mr Puggy is an expert when it comes to making friends.

that's not all he's an expert at, check out his title . . . . . . .



on a serious note though guys, no bullshit in this thread please, if you don't agree with something either be constructive or go make a cup of tea . .

[Tom]

Mr Puggy is an expert when it comes to making friends.

that's not all he's an expert at, check out his title . . . . . . .



on a serious note though guys, no bullshit in this thread please, if you don't agree with something either be constructive or go make a cup of tea . .

Hehehehehe

Yeah i agree its serious turbo time, third times a charm, or so they say.

[Danny Wideboy]

In that case, I'm off for a cuppa.

[Jonny81191]

In that case, I'm off for a cuppa.

QFT, if the mods really want to let this guy continue to cause arguments then I'll go make a brew.

[Danny2009]

Stop taking pictures and get the f*cking thing on

[Jtrigga]

So many things I want to say to all of this........... Il go make a tea.

[Niall]

In that case, I'm off for a cuppa.

QFT, if the mods really want to let this guy continue to cause arguments then I'll go make a brew.

Well we need some sort of entertainment don't we

[Chris_90]

just fit the turbo and lift the head will you . . bring an end to all this . . . . x

I was thinking the exact same thing tbh

[Seb_Ryan]

Gonna be plenty of people having a cuppa lol, issue is he asks for help, receives said help, has a strop and does totally the opposite..

On a nice note.. get it fitted and don't plan on selling the turbo.. you'll lose about 600 quid lol

[Mattcheese31]

lol cue sales of tea around the country going to record highs i'm not been funny guys, y'all know what i mean, it looks a bit bad when new members see us ripping too much x

[Jonny81191]

Misinformation and blatant trolling is allowed however??

Not having a dig, but it gets horribly repetitive sometimes..

[Piggy]

[Niall]

Misinformation and blatant trolling is allowed however??

Not having a dig, but it gets horribly repetitive sometimes..

Are you going to finally tell him he's bought the wrong turbo then? lol

[Mattcheese31]

Misinformation and blatant trolling is allowed however??

Not having a dig, but it gets horribly repetitive sometimes..

no course not lol, just trying to keep a bit of order, stop busting my balls

[THE_Liam]

Look guys, if you don't like what the guy posts, just don't open the thread, problem solved

[ginge191]

just fit the turbo and lift the head will you . . bring an end to all this . . . . x

QFT

[Poodle]

Misinformation and blatant trolling is allowed however??

Not having a dig, but it gets horribly repetitive sometimes..

You're definitely in the wrong place dude, you've just named the very values our whole community is based upon.

[Jonny81191]

Misinformation and blatant trolling is allowed however??

Not having a dig, but it gets horribly repetitive sometimes..

You're definitely in the wrong place dude, you've just named the very values our whole community is based upon.

touche sir!

[306Puggy]

Right, fitment of the unit has begun in earnest. I am preparing the car to remove the manifolds, although I have come up against a brick wall early on. I have already removed both manifolds twice but I cannot for the life of me remember how to remove the exhaust downpipe nut on the driver's side. At first I tried it with the engine on it's mounts, then I removed the top engine mount and jacket the engine up/down, but I still can't seem to get in there with a 3/8th inch ratchet on a 10 inch or 5 inch extension, or the ratchet with just the socket on it itself. Here's a picture of the problem area:

This one nut/bolt has held me up for the last 2:30 hours. The angle is ever so slightly wrong to get the required 13mm deep socket on to it.



Here is the current state of progress on the car. Not much all because of the exhaust downpipe.


Right, I thought of jacking the engine up and seeing if I could get a spanner in from the top but I couldn't be bothered at the time until an hour later I tried it out of desperation and it worked.

So that turned out to be the solution to removing the exhaust downpipe nuts on the driver's side.

I then made firm progress and removed both manifolds.

Here is how the car stands now:





You can see from the carbon build up that the steel gasket has sealed perfectly around the exhaust ports:

I don't know why people still bother with fibre gaskets which can be tricky.

So, the to do list for tomorrow:

Clean cylinder head (I don't know if I need to do this since a steel gasket does not leave any residue behind like a fibre gasket does, so I shall put a thread up)

Extend thread in cylinder head exhaust stud holes to allow for more tightening of exhaust studs

Bash bulkhead to allow fitment for bigger GT2052S turbocharger

Clock GT2052S in relation to K14 turbo for a rough guide

Fit GT2052S and prime with oil by cranking the engine over on the starter for three ten second bursts

Call me paranoid but I am gonna leave the oil return off for a few seconds while I am priming the turbo just to make sure there actually is oil flowing around it. Then once it is primed I am gonna run it without the boost hose connected to see if there is any oil pissing out along with the airflow.

As I have stated previously the shaft has very little play so no reason to suspect any issues. None the less I am anticipating problems, I just don't know what they will be yet

[Piggy]

Two spanners, from above with engine rocked forward.

Simple.

Not really a brick wall :S

[Seb_Ryan]

Two spanners, from above with engine rocked forward.

Simple.

Not really a brick wall :S

This..

or because you've got a new elbow etc if you can't manage that just weld the top nut to the elbow.

Lefty loosey, righty tighty remember lol

[306Puggy]

Heh, yeah I didn't see your posts there. But anyway I did think of that but couldn't really be bothered until I realised my other methods weren't working. See my updated post for details

[procta]

cars for you puggy, things are a pain in the arse, you just have to work the problem,

[306Puggy]

Right, this morning's update. Been busy extending the threads in the cylinder head mani stud holes. I got four out of six, but the two that I didn't get were because the tap was going in a certain amount and then just stopping dead, almost as though the holes didn't have the extra depth that the others had. Although it is perfectly possible that I cross threaded them with the tap, as it is tricky with a heavy tap handle on the end of the tap. For reference, this is how far the tap should go on a mani stud hole with the correct depth:



And this is how far the tap was going on the ones that I think might be shallower or that I might have cross threaded:



Luckily I can still get the studs far in enough to support the turbo, they might have already been like that I don't know.

Next step was to commit some bulkhead bashing. This was quite awkward with a gap small for swinging a club hammer around in and at the same time trying not to knock the cylinder head to mani mating surface as aluminium is very soft and dents easily. The last thing I want on a big turbo is a mani leak!

Hmm, not enough:



That's more like it:



Does anyone know how far to bash it for a GT2052S with a 6mm adapter plate? Thanks.

Next stage is to clean the cylinder head to mani mating surface and then get a couple of studs mounted and clock the GT2052 in relation to the K14 and begin fitting!



Nice (relatively) clean cylinder head to mani surface. There is some pitting from manoeuvring the manis out and no doubt from catching it a few times with the club hammer which is annoying but can't be helped. I hope nothing leads to an exhaust leak!


Now time to bring the GT20 down and start clocking it and mocking it up.