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Hdi - non starter (sort of) New injectors PP2000 data inside
#1
Evening!
Well as the cabby has got a bit too pricey to run I have bought a very cheap hdi estate!
For the grand total of £210 I've got a 2001 hdi lx! With half a tank of red diesel (we'll get to that in a min!)
The issue is that the car will start and idle for a moment but then cut out. If the engine is rev'd it will cut out immediately.
The fuel pump is priming and turning off as it should although it does seem to stop first when the engine cuts off (but this may be the ecu cutting the fuel)
Also when the engine cuts out sometimes it will not restart unless the key is taken out and put back in.
The fault code is P0230

Link to video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XfRskv4l...ata_player
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#2
http://306oc.co.uk/forum/thread-22476.html

That covers most things you can do on the cheap to test components. I'd start with your earths and wiring, then lift pump.

More info in my sig too.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
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#3
Yea read though that already! Cheers bud!! I know nothing about these ecu controlled things Lmao!
Going to look at the fuel pressure regulator tomorrow (fingers crossed) it could be a free fix.
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#4
i would start by flushing the fuel system so disconnect the fuel return from the tank after draining the tank and refilling with white diesel use the intank pump to get the red out of the fuel lines completely then clean the fuel regulator on the back of the hp pump and a new fuel filter

red is most of the time mixed with other fuel oils so get it all out asap rather than trying to fix it whilst its got red in it as it will damage parts
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#5
Yea, sounds like a plan. I need to get that red out either way. Just don't really know what to do with it?! The plan for tomorrow is to empty tank, change the filter and clean the reg and gonfrom there.
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#6
you can give it to a local farmer or ask a local recycling center what to do with it
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#7
i agree with that, drain red diesel, refill with white, new filter etc, when you clean the fpr, i soaked mine in petrol for about 4 hours, then i blew it off with degreaser and air line.
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#8
Well took the fuel reg out this afternoon and found that the o ring was completely knackered.
Trip to the scrappy and £5 later and it runs!! Started up in limp mode but after clearing the faults it's perfect!
It does still occasionally run on for a few seconds after switching off but I can live with that for now.
All repped (except madmax as he's a newby and I can't rep him for some reason?)
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#9
Well the fix was short lived. Started cutting out again!! Same issue
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#10
do you have access to pp2000 to plug it in and see the live data from the rail pressure and the fpr?
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#11
Unfortunately not. I do have pp but the disk it came with is knackered so can't install :-(
Tried another fpr as I got 2 from the breakers but no difference. Thinking that maybe the red had damaged the seals in the pump after prolonged use.
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#12
could have done but im thinking, if the previous owner run it on red, could they have run it on kerosene? the trouble is kero has no lubricants in the fuel as its a heating oil. that knackers hp pumps really quickly.
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#13
No idea what it's been run on in the past, could well have run on kero, could have even had veg though it for all I know. If I can get a pump cheap enough it's worth trying I suppose.
Also may be worth changing the in tank pump as a set, then a good blast with some redx or similar fuel system cleaner
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#14
i can post you a disk for your pp2000 if you like
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#15
i would try to get it on pp2000 before you spend any money on parts, madmadmax said he will post you a disk. but a pump will probably cost you about £50 and a couple of hours to change. im presuming that the in tank pump is good, and getting good voltage etc. You get good fuel flow upto the filter housing and the gauze isn't blocked on the pump?
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#16
I've got a good HP pump, £30 + postage, if you do need one. Smile
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#17
Max that would be spot on chap!! I'll chuck a fiver your way to cover postage/trouble.
In tank pump gets a good voltage yes, and appears to function properly, there's no metal in the filter housing either.
Not bothered about changing the pump if that needs to be done, car only cost me peanuts but as you said don't really want to be spending money for nothing.
Tom - If the pump does turn out to be fubar I'll be straight in touch pal!
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#18
pm me your address and i will get it done on Wednesday or Thursday
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#19
Now sorted thanks to the pump from Tom Smile

I did notice that the pump which Tom sent was a "555" whereas the pump which came off was a "515", could this have been the problem?
Either way I'm happy now and considering a stage 1 Wink
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#20
Glad it worked for you Dan! Smile
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#21
Yea. All worked thanks pal!!! Top bloke, cheers!!
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#22
Right, started doing it again Sad

Not as bad as before, I can drive gently all day long but if I start getting heavy with the right foot, management light comes on and engine stalls! It's bloody dangerous, did it on a dual carriageway when I had to put my foot down to avoid getting swiped by a lorry who didnt bother to check his mirrors, engine cut out and I had to coast to the side of the road. Why doesn't this fault cause a limp home mode?

Anyway once I took the key our and restarted it the car logged a P0230.

As above, HP pump as been changed for a known good one from Tom, FPR along with it, fuel filter was also changed.
LP pump "appears" to be doing its job, no signs of swarf in the filter pot.

Not had it on PP as it wont bloody install properly.
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#23
If your copy of peugeot planet won't install I used a copy off here: http://download.xcar360.com/peugeot-pp2000.html it's pp2000_09b.zip works for me anyway Smile
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#24
^ Perfect, downloading it now. At work so not got the most stable connection. Is the crack and everything needed in the zip file?
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#25
P0230 is fuel pump primary curcuit fault, again so something with the fuel pumpy bits

relay good?
PCM good?
Any shorts to batery voltage on control circuit?
any shorts to ground in the harness?
is the harness wire broken or worn through and shorting somewhere?
all plugs nice and tight?
all connections dry (Water wise)?



you could try turning the pump off and on in PP,
Given the choice between Niall and the sheep. I would choose the sheep!
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#26
^ Everything is visibly dry and connected, no obvious signs of damage.

Below is some PP data, it was gone 10 last night so was midfull of neigbours etc. All tests were carried out when stationary (not under load)
All of the actuator test "seemed" to work correctly other than both of the fans which made a sort of grinding noise!
Also PP couldn't talk to the bsi?? Is this normal or another issue.
There were also 2 faults which were logged, both cleared fine though.

[attachment=16625]

[attachment=16626]

[attachment=16627]

[attachment=16628]

[attachment=16629]

[attachment=16630]

[attachment=16631]

[attachment=16632]

[attachment=16633]

[attachment=16634]


I will do a running test later, which screens do people need to see as I can get a mate to sit in the passenger seat and film/take pictures.
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#27
Won't connect to bsi and coded anti-start fault... Sounds like immobiliser issues tbh, but that doesn't fit the rest of the symptoms so we'll ignore it for now.

If you've replaced all those parts with known good there's only so much it can be now - lift pump or injectors. Have you done a leak-off test on the injectors?
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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#28
Poodle! There you are! Lol

Right repaired the clutch switch which had a damaged connector. Now the bsi is communicating, had faults with one of the door locks which cleared and seems to now be ok.

Not done a leak off test yet, I think injectors are next on my list to eliminate. I noticed that on the readings above there is a big difference in the readings across the cylinders. Is that normal? On a friends hdi the readings were much closer together ( No.1 -0.51mm3, No.2 - 0.49mm3, No.3 +0.25mm2, No.4 +0.45mm3)

Any tips on doing the leak off test before I consult YouTube Smile
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#29
Hey lol, sorry not been on much recently. You're dead right, those injector correction readings are really high, especially considering there's no load on the engine. For some reason i didn't even look at those before replying previously, bearing that in mind you probably don't need to bother doing a leak-off test tbh. Blush

If you'd like to do it to be sure, it's just a case of separating the leak-off flow into individual bottles, leaving the engine idling for half an hour, then measuring the results. You'll need lengths of leak-off pipe to run from the injectors to the bottles, short lengths with one blocked end to use as blanks, some small bottles (i used 500ml coke bottles) and half an hour. I also recommend something to fix the bottles to so they don't fall over mid-test (totally didn't do that), i used a bit of drilled angle and cable ties. Just attach it all up and leave her running at idle for 15-20 minutes, the longer you leave her going the easier to get accurate results. Standard is ~8ml a minute iirc, anything outside the 6.5-10 range is knackered.
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...UPGRADING...



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#30
Haha! No worries chap! I've been flat out with work, moving house and other projects at the moment so have had barely any time on the forum lately!
Right then, so a trip down the breakers this weekend then to grab a set of injectors. I may do the leak off test anyway just out of curiosity as I've never done one before but as you said the readings above do speak for themselves!
Bloody HDi's, XUD FTW!

Oh and any ideas on what the clutch switch is actually used for on these, is it to do with the idle revs like on a ford?
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