Dr_Jekyll & Mr_Hyde Estate Project

[dr_jekyll]

Well its about time I made a project thread and im gonna try and keep this is chronological order from how I started 7 months ago.

Spose I should start off by explaining the odd ball name, basically I needed a family car with a split personality to keep myself amused I bought the car 7 months ago for £200. It was an absolute shitter, suspension was all ceased, no exhaust system, very down on power and just about everyones worst nightmare but I saw the potential in it and forked over the money after abit of haggerling loaded the poor girl on the trailer and got her home.
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As I didnt need the car on the road for abit I started shopping for some knew wheels so she could comfortably sit on the floor. What I choose was a set of porsche 924 compomotives 15x7j. My first problem with these was the hubcenters. The porsche hubs were a shocking 57.0 cb, I stood two chances of making these fit, machine the wheels or have custom spacers made. I choose to get the wheels machined out by a very good local engineering firm (RBS of great rybrough) they successfully opened the cb up to the 65.1 I needed for my estate. Once done I bought 5mm wheel spacers to clear the front calipers and a set of tpi polarised wheel bolts.
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Next was to sort the suspension out, while fitting the wheels I realised the monkey I had bought the car have had bizairly only fitted inner brake pads on each of the calipers -.- (explained the crap brakes when I drove it around). To solve this I bought a set of disks and pads all round and sorced a set of secound hand calipers and a set of bilstein b4 shocks/rear dampers and gmaxx springs.
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[devils_fuel]

nice project mate

[dr_jekyll]

Cheers but this is near finished only just got round to making a project thread.

Anyways also bought an omp strut brace for the old girl
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Next I made a start on the interior. Always hated the stock wheels so the first thing I did was got my hands on a momo boss and my mate donated me a mazda mx5 eunos momo which looks the tits with the meridian stock half leathers Also bought a hks turbo timer, as I was doing away with the radio stalk I thought the sensible thing to do was to route the wiring inside of a length of conduit into the empty stalk hole. As for the gauges I had them left over from my first 306 which never really got done. Decided to stay along the conduit theme and bolted them coldly to the dash routing the conduit through the vents (also painted the dash piece s and fitted blue lights in the clock but this seems common now anyway)
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the wires were a nightmare but soon went in, took a live feed directly from the cd player and ran the lights of the cigarette lighter light.
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got the gti6 headrest in aswell and the ph1 glove box (ignore the gay stickers)
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[mcvite]

Coming on nicely,good project here

[7057sam]

Looks great

Any idea about what power it's running atm ?

[dr_jekyll]

Im on a stage 2 limited torque atm so around 160bhp but got a full torque and a ceramic cg clutch sitting here

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I'll post some more up later

[Eeyore]

Those wheels are seriously epic! Loving this. Not sure about the gauges bolted on the passenger side. Could have just put them in the top of the dash or on the pillar.

[dr_jekyll]

Best add abit more now ive got five minutes

When I bought the car it came with no head unit and to my delight when I put my pioneer headunit in every single one of the speakers was naffed. To solve this I bought two 6.5" vibe black aire speakers for the front and two vibe slick 5" for the boot lid (made custom pods to adapt from the normal 5x7 speakers in the boot). [attachment=15139]
Come across a bit of a hurdle when it came to fitting the fronts though, because the speakers were so deep I had to mount them backwards, this was temp though im still to fix it :/
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To finish off the interior I wanted to get rid of the center console and opt out for the ph1 tray instead for more storage.
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The original carpet on the ph1 tray looked scabby as hell so I man handled a spare meridian door card for the cloth and decided to retrim the tray to match the rest of the interior. What a pig it was to do but I was very happy with the end result
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and this is it fitted back in the car
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[devils_fuel]

Looking good mate, lots has happened

[dr_jekyll]

Just a little bit though im making this thread theres still more going on, put a limited torque map on the other day, now ordered a new boost controller as ive lost my stored one and more. Like to keep this project moving all the time

[7057sam]

Centre console looks great

really like all the bits your going,progress is comming along well

[Poodle]

Looking good! I take it you're aiming for something that's entertaining to drive and be in, but also economical, family capable and acceptable to the missus?

[dr_jekyll]

Pretty much mate though I have to avoid multistories like the plague now and have found myself beached a few times

[dr_jekyll]

My other 306 started dying so bringing this on the road was pushed forward, to get it throught the mot it just needed an exhaust so I sourced a decat pipe, straight through middle section and just a stock backbox.
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After passing the mot I got straight to work on making the car ready for a stage 1 whippy remap. First thing was to remove the egr valve, to my luck the back bolt was missing it was only a matter of removing and fitting the blanking plate (and mase a homade gasket for the inlet to solve the boost leak)
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To finish the car off for a stage 1 I also removed the oil breather from the inlet pipe and replaced it on the rocker cover with an ash filter and fitted my old k&n from my hdi hatch back.
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once my kwp 2000 was delivered the fun started remaping the little jem. Took half an hour just to get the program working on the laptop but as soon as it was on it was a 5 minute job to upload the whippy map
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after the remap a few weeks later the lift pump decided to start shitting itself, cutting out unpredictably, refusing to prime in the mornings and the famous gold fillings in the bottom of the fuel filter. Before it could get worse I ordered a new fuel filter and another genuine vdo pump.
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[Poodle]

Hahaha gone pretty low then! You'll almost certainly find it goes better with the stock airbox btw bud.

[dr_jekyll]

Haha yeah, she's only 60mm but the small wheels slam it. I found out about the airbox after doing it :/ I havnt got much room after fitting fmic pipes, may get a cda filter later on

After the stage 1 map I decided to remove the aircon system and fit the shorter belt 6pk 1173. This decision was made after I found a pipe with a split. First thing was to rip the radiator out.
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After the rad was removed the next step was to get the compressor out.
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After that all the pipe work had to be removed, untill the day I have the dash out ive simply just unbolted the pipes out of the bulkhead and cut them out.
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While all this was going on I decided to be a bit of a tart and colour code the slam panel while it was off, do the expansion cap and engine mount.
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The last thing to do now was drop the pump and and fit the belt before reasemmbling.
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The next step was putting it all back together, while in the engine bay I found a lovley hole in the k&n filter so bought a cheap but surprising nice ramair filter from ebay. While on ebay I also slipped and bought a de-badged grille to fit. To solve the bonnet issue I have removed the badge and and temp put a bonnet bra over to hide the hole till I can afford to do all the body work
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Also fitted my gti6 splitter and fog blanks at the same time
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[devils_fuel]

Looking good mate

[Tom]

What a cool project, cant wait to see some more unfold!

[dr_jekyll]

Thanks

[dr_jekyll]

Next step for this was to finally slam the axle, before doing this I had to replace the rear axle as she was cambering badly. Choose a gti-6 one for the replacment
When it cam to lowering I refused to do the notch method. Instead I fully removed the torsion bars. To start with I removed the brake line/handbrake cable brackets then removed the bolts on the anti roll bar caps. To seperate the cap from the arb I used a bolt to pull the cap off.
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Once one of the ends was removed the anti roll bar just pulled out from the opposite side.
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Next was to remove the torques bolts out the end of the torsion bars and remove the daft washer. Removing the washer was a chore, I had to remove all the grime from the slot with a pick but it had been in there that long it had set like concrete.
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once removed I cleaned them up and removed the two nuts the other end of the torsion bars. Once these were removed I was able to screw the slide hammer into the torsion bars and remove them.
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the near side come out a piece of cake but the drivers side was siezed in. I tried the the tapping method were by you apply tension with a bolt and washer and go the other end and tap the torsion bar through, then go the other end and apply more tension to tue bolt.
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In the end the only way I could remove it was by removing the trailing arm and heating the shit out of it till it just pulled out.
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was the bars were remove I cleaned all the splines up. Next was to measure how low I wanted the car. I did this by jacking up the hub, applying a spirit level to the cb and measuring from the bottom of the bar to the top of the arch.
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once set it was just a case of greasing everything up and putting it all back together to get the end result
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[devils_fuel]

From what I can see, that looks a nice practical height [THUMBS UP SIGN]

[dr_jekyll]

Cant get a jack under no more and have to avoid multi story car parks lol, front bumper I can only just get my toes under

[dr_jekyll]

Bought a powerflow back box to fit to the eatate. Problem with the estates is the fact there exhausts finish inder the car and I was after abit of visible smoke.
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Because theres no hangers at the back of the car the first job was to add a hanger in.
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Once the hanger was in I was able to make a pipe to extend off the original. This meant that if I ever wanted the standard back box back on I could no problems once the pipe was made it was a simple case of hanging the exhaust.
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as the car was low I wanted the exhaust as close to the bumper as possible. As most people know when you get the exhaust to close to the bumper it melts. My solution to this was to fit some heat shielding that is usually found on the inside of motorcycle plastics near the exhaust.
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and boom, estate with a cheeky pipe
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[Paul Baldwin]

Looking good this Liking that slide hammer, proper mans one lol, I bet you can persuade most things to do what you want with that!

[dr_jekyll]

Haha that was a mates slide hammer, opted for a more manly one with a larger weight

Decided to take the roof bars off but not smoothing them in yet. Cars over due a respray but don't want to drive a patch work quilt while I save up so in the mean time of just used bicycle top caps with counter sunk bolts, don't look to bad for a temp bodge.
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Nearly upto date now

So last week I got my fmic in, about time but was very surprised that there was no lag with the cooler I choose (I say choose but it was a freebie). The cooler was a 3" twin pass, as most people wuth hdi's seem to run the pipe back on itself to get it past the rad I thought the 3" couldnt be no worse and at least I was getting more cooling efficiency.
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the piping I choose was a 2.25" universal kit to match the 406 pipes I had. The top elbow had been pre modified with abit welded in to mount the boost gauge.
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[dr_jekyll]

First step to fitting was to strip the front end off the car and the induction.
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Next was removing the bottom pipe, what a pig. Only access was through the wheel arch to undo the clips, once undone the only way I could remove the pipe was to cut it away. Once the pipe was cut out I removed all the pas pipe brackets, cut down the 406 pipe so it fit and mounted it up. To ensure the pipe couldnt move about I made a bracket to mount the pipe onto one of the orginal pas pipe mounts.
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after this I started work on the bottom fmic mounts.
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then I made a homade gasket for the top pipe to mount in and start dummying pipe work. When it came to fitting the slam panel again I found that there was a chunk needed removing.
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then it was just a case of fitting the mikalors, making the top cooler brackets and cutting down the engine cover to fit.
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Final step was just putting it all back together and admiring my amazing skills
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And now were up to yestoday
Finally got my manual boost controller through. After getting under the car and realising what a bitch the job was gonna be I decided the easiest way to go about it was to fit a new pipe on the easiest to access part and stent the over pipe out with abit of copper so I could extend it to where I wanted the mbc.
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not gonna lie tried to bodge this with washer jet pipe but kinda blew the shit outa the side of it lol. My mate came to the rescue with some wire rienforced hose so fitted it and spot on mounted the Mbc with a P clamp up near the strut brace for easy tweeking.
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Slowly been collecting bits to do my clutch aswell. Bought a second hand cg ceramic clutch with minimal wear.
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ordered a new thrust bearing aswell (clutch came with one and a pressure plate but for the price of the bearing thought may aswell replace) and new gear box oil.
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so now im just waiting on my new draper clutch tool to arrive and then this is a job for next weekend

[devils_fuel]

A very tidy job mate . Sounds like hours of fun

[dr_jekyll]

Cheers always try to keep it as neat and not in your face as possible

[C.A.R.]

Love the attention to detail and the FMIC install looks tidy too. How much did you pay for all that?

Only thing I'm not keen on is your gauge arrangement...or lack of it lol. Just kind of ruins the rest of your hard work.

Coming along nice though

[dr_jekyll]

Cheers
Fmic was a freebie after helping a mate out (but £130 new on ebay)
2.25" pipe kit was £65
Ash 90° reducers £25
Pre-fabbed 406 pipes £40
The gauges were an attempt to break the mold, seen alot of 306's pillar podding or vent mounting so tried to be different. Though its a pain with passangers