Cully's spare Gti6 engine

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Cully's spare Gti6 engine
done some icing of the cake today
liquid gasket Smile

   

   

geting better at the icing Wink

   

sump is on all torqued down

   

box of empty bags box's scrap bits is getting bigger

   
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ok so ive not put anything here for a while
so an update..

before xmas i bought a light flywheel and pulley, which now after taking some advice from an engine builder will be fitted to this new engine rebuild,
but first,
im going to strip the crank out the block......i know ive just built it!
and send the Pulley/crank/flywheel away to be ballanced

one thing was bugging me as this engine is an earlyer engine with a non keyed oil pump drive how would they balence it answer fit a later keyed sprocket
so haved ordered the sprocket and new chain before christmas

went and picked it up yesterday

[attachment=12390]

i have been recomended to use SRD Engines from launceston for the ballancing work as he has experiance with these engines

so now ive got to strip the crank and clean the surfaces again and save some money for the ballance work

this may be a project lasting a more than the winter Tongue
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Ballance work be well worth it.

You getting the rods all balanced in weight too?
Wishes for more power...
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I'm wanting to do something along these lines with another Tu5jp4 engine for my 106.

Very similar situation I guess, car is a weekend toy and already has a good engine.

Just wandering how much you think it's going to cost you in total to rebuild your engine with all the uprated shiney bits?
Current stable
'09 Mercedes E320cdi wagon 
'99 306 gti6
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as for the rods i was told it would be worth it,
but not to bother cause of the issues or remmoving the gudion pin as its a press fit
ie you need to heat the rod and press out the pin
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(03-01-2014, 10:18 AM)ozonehostile Wrote: Just wandering how much you think it's going to cost you in total to rebuild your engine with all the uprated shiney bits?

dont want to add it up as the wife will find out Big Grin

but i think its begining to run away now and get silly for a std engine
one things for sure you could do it a lot cheaper by using std bearings not uprated race sets
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(03-01-2014, 10:21 AM)cully Wrote:
(03-01-2014, 10:18 AM)ozonehostile Wrote: Just wandering how much you think it's going to cost you in total to rebuild your engine with all the uprated shiney bits?

dont want to add it up as the wife will find out Big Grin

but i think its begining to run away now and get silly for a std engine
one things for sure you could do it a lot cheaper by using std bearings not uprated race sets

But... wheres the fun in that? :-)
JP
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and now you can boost it Tongue
Wishes for more power...
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(03-01-2014, 10:29 AM)Piggy Wrote: and now you can boost it Tongue


the plan was to make it future proof,
so turbo or charging or TB's could be an option in the distance
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Haha future proof. Love it
Current stable
'09 Mercedes E320cdi wagon 
'99 306 gti6
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What does balancing do? Make it run smoother?



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(03-01-2014, 12:45 PM)Chris_90 Wrote: What does balancing do? Make it run smoother?

it does exactly the same as when you balance your wheels

it removes the resonance that produces vibration which wears/breaks things

so yes produces a smoother runing engine
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(03-01-2014, 12:45 PM)Chris_90 Wrote: What does balancing do? Make it run smoother?

Things like cranks and conrods will be made within a tolerance from the factory, probably quite a wide tolerance to keep production costs down, so that can mean that out of your 4 rods for example a couple of them might be slightly heavier a one end. Not really a huge deal but if you think that a difference of maybe half a gram weight difference on two different rods, that's going to mean alot more inertia being thrown around at 7k rpm, not something that's desirable with a high revving engine. Balanced bottom end is a step towards making your nice new motor last a bit longer and be more predictable at high rpm.


At least that's my understanding of it?
Current stable
'09 Mercedes E320cdi wagon 
'99 306 gti6
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Makes it smoother, less prone to breaking stuff and if you go for a lighten too, makes it rev better / helps produce more power.
JP
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Ive found the balancing to be VERY noticable on the diesel motors ive built, id imagine the gti motor a bit more care is taken as stock due to its revvy nature, but certainly worthwhile...Id NEVER built an XU / DW derv without balancing it, the difference it makes is epic...
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Oh thanks for that guys, so is it worth it in my engine build? Looking at 170bhp reliable maybe push it to 200bhp if possible. Xud btw

Or is it only worth it on higher powered cars?

(03-01-2014, 01:33 PM)darrenjlobb Wrote: Ive found the balancing to be VERY noticable on the diesel motors ive built, id imagine the gti motor a bit more care is taken as stock due to its revvy nature, but certainly worthwhile...Id NEVER built an XU / DW derv without balancing it, the difference it makes is epic...

Edit that answers my question lol

Best way to get stuff balanced? Take it to engine shop to be done? Or can it be done diy in shed?



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You'd want them balanced by someone who has the equipment to balance parts as a set
Current stable
'09 Mercedes E320cdi wagon 
'99 306 gti6
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As Darren says balancing is very worthwhile, IMO its one of the best things you can have done in a machine shop. IIRC when my HDi lump was done it wasn't just a few grams out it was a few % out on brand new standard components.

Personally I wouldn't imagine that the GTi6 is any better balanced than a stock XUD/HDi.
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So what bits need balancing? Crank, rods, flywheel?

What would this service cost?



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Clutch aswell.
Doesnt even own a 306.
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Ideally anything that turns mate; bottom pulley, oil pump drive, crank, flywheel, clutch, rods, pistons, gudgeon pins and the rod bearings and gudgeon pin circlips need to be checked to make sure they are identical weights.
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(03-01-2014, 02:26 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote: Ideally anything that turns mate; bottom pulley, oil pump drive, crank, flywheel, clutch, rods, pistons, gudgeon pins and the rod bearings and gudgeon pin circlips need to be checked to make sure they are identical weights.

Wow not sure I will go that far in to it, surely it would cost a fortune to have the lot balanced?



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(03-01-2014, 03:12 PM)Chris_90 Wrote:
(03-01-2014, 02:26 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote: Ideally anything that turns mate; bottom pulley, oil pump drive, crank, flywheel, clutch, rods, pistons, gudgeon pins and the rod bearings and gudgeon pin circlips need to be checked to make sure they are identical weights.

Wow not sure I will go that far in to it, surely it would cost a fortune to have the lot balanced?

Yeah you're probably right, most engine builders charge for the time rather than a set price, so you'd be looking at a fair bit just based on that logic
Current stable
'09 Mercedes E320cdi wagon 
'99 306 gti6
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(03-01-2014, 03:12 PM)Chris_90 Wrote:
(03-01-2014, 02:26 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote: Ideally anything that turns mate; bottom pulley, oil pump drive, crank, flywheel, clutch, rods, pistons, gudgeon pins and the rod bearings and gudgeon pin circlips need to be checked to make sure they are identical weights.

Wow not sure I will go that far in to it, surely it would cost a fortune to have the lot balanced?

Not really, especially if your not having it lightened at the same time. crank/fly/clutch balancing takes the time, the pistons and rods are just machined to all weigh the same as each other.

Personally I'm not sure I'd have it all balanced together in case you want to change clutch/fly at a later date. so get them done separately.
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All my engine has been balanced as its best to when u take it up to high revs
287 Bhp N/A Big Grin
Built by Pug1Off
1/4 mile in 13.6
Now in french car mag
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time to get this moving as im going to loose stuff if im not carefull

anyway ive decided not to ballence as im not allowed to spend the money on it
which is a shame Sad

I have had the sump off again and stripped the oil pump cleaned and rebuilt it
im glad i did as there were parts of old shells lodged in the strainer
other than that there is verry little in them other than gears and a releif valve and spring.

so i reasembled the oil pump into the block with new Chain and the newer type sprocket not forgetting the little oring seal

Today it was head on day and torque down
35nm +70nm + 180deg's
then went on to install the cams and pulleys then pined it all in time!

[attachment=13622]
[attachment=13623]
[attachment=13624]

then i decided to attack the engine mount with a disc cutter

[attachment=13625]
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Hmmm i think i would have held out until funds allowed to get it balanced.
Peugeot 206 GTI HDI
Volvo V50 2.0d
Volvo XC90 D5







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Cully do you know of anywhere local round use to get bits balanced?
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Why did you grind off the PAS mounting? What are you planning to put there? Wink
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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(16-02-2014, 04:02 PM)Niall Wrote: Why did you grind off the PAS mounting? What are you planning to put there? Wink

Throttle bodies whistle
[Image: Cn91r40h.jpg] 
Astor 6 Fast road/track project
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