Sean's (& Ed's & Scott's) Astor GTi6

[samass]

Could always try putting the camber/caster back to standard and seeing if it still tramlines everywhere, then look at the bushes and everything

[Niall]

Don't forget ed, spec2s do tramline really badly!

I'll give you £800 for it as it is now.

[sweeney1987]

wishbones still maybe at fault. are you sure bottom ball joint pins are right size and havent ovalled the hub out, i had this problem causing scary steering! i found out some factors only think theres 16mm for the 306, dont realise theres an 18mm variant too.

with regards to lifting off and car decelerating, doesnt that happen in all cars? or am i to used to old mechanicals...

you could try changing gearbox oil to reduce friction, or if car is still meant to feed fuel when you lift off then you need to plug it in to pp and unplug sensors one at a time, see if theres any difference to running.

Have you checked the racoon gasket?

[C.A.R.]

Have you tried un-plugging the lambda (will probably bring a light on the dash) and going for a drive? If it's a marked improvement you'll know your culprit instantly.

Haven't read all of the last 2 pages so apologies if it's already been suggested. Lamda can cause hesitation and 'bogging down' issues.

What's your intake setup? Still standard airbox?

[Jonny81191]

^^

Point 1; I'm tempted.

Point 2; FYC

RE. Point 1:

Don't you f*cking dare.. Stick at it mate, we all go through times when we want a change cos our car's getting irritating. Keep it, look after it, and when summer comes around you'll be so glad you didn't get rid!

[Ed Doe]

@ Sam: the topmounts are eccentric ones, so I can either have no camber and max castor, or no castor and max camber... or max of both given the strut holes. but cant set it to stock for both at the same time...

@ Niall: Forgot they did... Might be partially the cause then. It did it worse on the turinis tbh, but I dont know if that was more that it was so much sharper, and therefore you felt all the additional tugs (inb4giggidy), or because they made it worse as well....

And no way for £800!!!

@Sweeny: my bjs are 18mm, as are my hubs. wrg to lift-off deceleration, yes it does it, but it now does it excessively. It was never this bad.
I'll be trying the pp route at the weekend with Niall (thanks bbz)

@ CAR: No not yet. When we plugged it in last weekend, Niall mentioned that the Lambda was still working, but was a bit on the tired side... Imo wouldn't be responsible for the extent of the issues, but I may give it a twirl and see how I get on on the weekend.
Intake set-up hasn't changed either, same as my old '6, and has been the same since about 2 weeks after I bought this one. De-resonatored, stock elbow off the tb to a phat cone on the end. ICV plumbed into the stock elbow as it should be.

[Niall]

I reckon it's just finally trying to give up after all the abuse it's had.

That or your brakes are binding

[samass]

hmm, then maybe set it to no/close to normal camber, as that's more likely to affect tramlining (i think...?)

anyway, i thought with the eccentric ones, you could have any combination? ho hum

[C.A.R.]

And the pipe from the ICV to the intake, this hasn't split?

I can't fathom why, but there are documented issues which have been resolved by fixing the split (usually at the joint between intake pipe and ICV take-off)

[Ed Doe]

Thanks for that Niall... The brakes just aren't binding, seriously.

Sam: yeah castor would reduce it, but any deviation from central would cause the wheels to start to 'fall' in that direction, exacerbating any potential change, so I don't know how useful it would be to do that...

CAR: My ICV pipe came away from the elbow months ago after I'd fitted my resonator bung and forgot about the tps plug... I'd bunged it back through the hole, as it has a lip on the end of the pipe, so it's held in place, but yes it's not totally sealed. Not sure how that would affect it though in all honesty; it wouldn't matter where the air was being drawn into it from, only that it gets a free supply of air (and that in the long term it's filtered...)

[C.A.R.]

I can't work it out either but there are a few documented threads on 306gti6.com suggesting it fixed their 'idle issue'.

I can only imagine that there is negative vacuum in the intake pipe when the throttle is open.

Quite how that would make any difference I've no idea though. I always used to put a small oil breather filter on the end of it when installing induction kits in the past!

[C.A.R.]

Edit - Also, what are the conditions of the spark plugs? It can be an early indication of headgasket failure if the car is hesitating.

[Ed Doe]

^changed the spark plugs about a month ago. the old ones were fine.

I doubt its the breather pipe as it's been like that for yonks with no issues at all until now...

[lewisdmz]

Could find someone else with a 6 and swap sensors one by one, they are all quite easy to change aren't they? At least just do the ECT, MAP and TPS. Would rule out any potential issues with diagnostic tools showing them as working.

[Ed Doe]

Just an update on this, massive thanks to Niall for helping out with pug planet on Saturday afternoon. It seems the lambda sensor is playing up a bit. It's still working but is all over the place at idle, running between about 650mV and 28mV. The latter being quite lean as far as I understand.

So ill be chucking on the spare lambda; hopefully that will solve my issues!

In other news, the car is friggin filthy! Ran out of time this week to even jet it off, but hopefully I'll be able to grab a couple of hours next weekend to give it a quick wash/detail before the Xmas meet. I'll take some photos tomorrow of the state of it!

[Ed Doe]

Quick update, I've put a replacement lambda on it (I say I did; the local mechanic did whilst I was at work!) not whipped a battery terminal off yet to reset the ecu but it felt miles better on the way home. Still periodically a little hesitant, but only slightly so and occasionally. Still a little more engine brakey than I remembered, but I've left it overnight with the battery disconnected so will see how it is on the way to work tomorrow. If it's not the above I'm a bit stumped tbh!!

[Dum-Dum]

This is the one and only time im gonna tell you this before I get back to trolling your car hypochondria;

Your just being paranoid, your car is fine.

[Niall]

This is the one and only time im gonna tell you this before I get back to trolling your car hypochondria;

Your just being paranoid, your car is fine.

this. dont forget its a 10yr+ old engine. it will not be perfect!

[Matt]

Jeez ed stop being paranoid. Drive mine for two minutes and you will feel nothings wrong and make you feel good about yours again

[C2K]

Stan told you on the 3rd November on GTi6OC it was your lambda.

[Ed Doe]

Cheers for the support chaps....

Having reset the ecu last night it drives fine now over the moon with it now it's fixed. I just need to give it a clean and sort out the cloning front suspension and it'll be epic again!

And I know Stan said my lambda was the issue along the 6 forum, it was initially the map sensor, and then driving it still felt like a tps issue. Obviously until I put it on Peugeot planet a little while ago, I wasn't to know it was a lambda issue! I'll go post on there so he can feel smug for the rest of the day lol

[Niall]

Does this mean now your going to stop whinging on about how your cars f*cked constantly?

[Ruan]

^^ No.

[Matt]

It will never stop!

[Scott]

Not until that raccoon filter gets fixed anyway!

[Ed Doe]

Never one to disappoint...

It still feels a tiny bit weird at the top of the throttle. Now some questions;

1. Icv; does it control air when in gear and off the throttle? Does it function at all when not at idle with no throttle? If so then I can only assume mine started playing up and is still not perfect which is slight affecting things...

2. Is there any way ambient temperature could affect things?

3. What are the symptoms of a Dicky coolant temperature sensor?

[Jimmyboycheck]

Never one to disappoint...

It still feels a tiny bit weird at the top of the throttle. Now some questions;

1. Icv; does it control air when in gear and off the throttle? Does it function at all when not at idle with no throttle? If so then I can only assume mine started playing up and is still not perfect which is slight affecting things...

no

2. Is there any way ambient temperature could affect things?

no

3. What are the symptoms of a Dicky coolant temperature sensor?

fans may come on straight away when you turn ignition on

[Curt]

I think you need another NAD so the '6 feels like a wacecar in comparison

[Niall]

Never one to disappoint...

It still feels a tiny bit weird at the top of the throttle. Now some questions;

1. Icv; does it control air when in gear and off the throttle? Does it function at all when not at idle with no throttle? If so then I can only assume mine started playing up and is still not perfect which is slight affecting things...

2. Is there any way ambient temperature could affect things?

3. What are the symptoms of a Dicky coolant temperature sensor?

never fail to amuse do you!

1. ICV should close up when driving and only move when on idle
2.Yes of course it can. If its colder outside and the cars taking in colder air, the car runs better
3. rough idle, hesitation and bad fuel consumption.
4. shut the f*ck up.

[Ruan]

Never one to disappoint...

It still feels a tiny bit weird at the top of the throttle. Now some questions;

1. Icv; does it control air when in gear and off the throttle? Does it function at all when not at idle with no throttle? If so then I can only assume mine started playing up and is still not perfect which is slight affecting things...

2. Is there any way ambient temperature could affect things?

3. What are the symptoms of a Dicky coolant temperature sensor?

1. ICV is closed all the time apart from on idle - why do you think ICV faults are characterised by stalling when coming down through the RPMs to idle - because the valve sticks and can't open fast enough.

2. No - the ECU should compensate. Even if it was totally off, it wouldn't make a massive difference, and the Lambda at part throttle would compensate anyhu.

3. There's 3 CTSs... One for fan system, one for ECU and one for gauges... The one for ECU, yes, but it'd run rich and in closed loop all the time... Check the coolant temperature readout in PP2000 next time it's on.