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(11-11-2012, 08:52 PM)Toms306 Wrote: Not all vags just mk4s.....
And yeah a clutch is consumable but its not cheap/easy to replace. Clutch is the main reason I'm not going stage 2 tbh, but im a bit worried about the clutch on the china taking a stage 1 ok, it has done 120k!
Tom my hdi had 150k before I mapped it. As far as I'm aware it was original clutch. it had lot of paperwork but none for clutch. My clutch took the map done no slipping what so ever. Just the thrush bearing seized and collapsed.
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Clutches only slip if you abuse them. It's the thrust bearing I'm worried about!
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155k, stage 1 map (whippy map), turbo back exhaust and bmc panel filter.. serviced very regularly and driven 'hard'. Mines absolutely fine!
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(12-11-2012, 01:18 PM)Toms306 Wrote: Clutches only slip if you abuse them. It's the thrust bearing I'm worried about!
You'll be alright mate. As you know it really isn't that hard to change the clutch. Yeah it took you a while but you didn't have the tools or the Knowledge you do now.
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W1ll, it's stage 2 that tends to be the problem with slipping clutches.
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(12-11-2012, 08:50 PM)Poodle Wrote: W1ll, it's stage 2 that tends to be the problem with slipping clutches.
This is true but some people do have problems on stage 1, in hindsight i wouldn't even attempted a stage 2 if i new it was gona be this much trouble and money
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Hi, everyone!
My car just got over 400,000 km (248,548 miles), is it too much for stage 1, if I do good servicing?
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I chucked my JP St1+ remapped ECU into my old 250k+ mile 306 HDi briefly before it was scrapped, and it worked absolutely fine - touch smokier than my other one with half the mileage (presumably thanks to the injectors being somewhat tired/noisy) but went well, the clutch held, and didn't throw any fault codes.
It's not so much the mileage of the engine, but how tired the fuel system parts are and how cared for / neglected the engine has been during its life IMO.
1990 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1991 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 16v // 1992 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1999 Peugeot 306 HDi Estate
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Reason for scrapping was engine or just old car?
If I decide to go stage 1 route, I should check all fuel system? or maybe even get rear ended hdi for spare parts?
because in Latvia it is easier to get damaged car than it is to get good used one.
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All this talk of high mileage is a little amusing to me since my daily Volvo is currently on 258500 and climbing, happily running increased boost and fuel and only on the lowest tier of the Volvo high mileage club
If a remap causes issues with your engine then their either likely to be issues that would have shown up anyway like a worn clutch, or its a bad map surely?
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19-02-2015, 03:12 PM
(This post was last modified: 19-02-2015, 03:13 PM by silverzx.)
I don't think I'd ever own a 2.0 HDi without a remap tbh (regardless of milage). They're sh1t without one.
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I re mapped my hdi estate couple months ago she's on 191 k now and still pulls well so as long as serviced should be ok
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(19-02-2015, 02:31 PM)Dreijers Wrote: Reason for scrapping was engine or just old car?
Sadly just because it was effectively worthless with that mileage.
Having replaced it with a 306 estate (because I needed the extra space) and swapped over various uprated/new parts from the old car, it wasn't worth my time putting the old one back together with the standard parts and getting a fresh MOT on it to sell it for what, £200-300 or so?
It was a shame as it was a good runner that had been well maintained, but such is the used car market in the UK that effectively it was killed because of economics, not because it was at the end of its life.
1990 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1991 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 16v // 1992 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.9 // 1999 Peugeot 306 HDi Estate
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Generally the problems with high mileage cars arise from the fuel pump and the injectors, sometimes the turbo but these tend to last a long time on the 2.0 HDI.
With that said, these problems can still occur on low mileage cars, it depends on how the car has been driven/maintained through its life and the quality of fuel that has been used. If you use good quality clean white diesel and no bio fuel or red diesel along with regular filter changes there's no reason that you would run in to problems with the fuel pump.
I always recommend using fully synthetic oil, changing it every 6k miles and letting the car warm up and cool down before/after hard driving, this will keep your turbo happy and it should see 200K easily.
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