205 GLD Sleeper :)

[mr_fish]

haha to the fire. On the 1st picture, on the subframe, is that another mounting point for if you need to move the lower engine mount across?

[Danny2009]

Looking good mate

I'd clean that subframe up get rid of the grease before you put engine back in much nicer to work on when your not covered in shit

[Chris_90]

I love how, while a fire occured, you had time to get ya phone out n take a pic!!!

Ha ha I thought that to lol was ok this side as no wires in way other side had to put it out quick

haha to the fire. On the 1st picture, on the subframe, is that another mounting point for if you need to move the lower engine mount across?

I've no idea about mount xud engine come out so it's in right place.

Looking good mate

I'd clean that subframe up get rid of the grease before you put engine back in much nicer to work on when your not covered in shit

I don't plan on getting under it once it's built lol! No doubt being a Peugeot I will spend most my time laid under it.

[Frosty]

If you think you will have issuses with the oil filter touching the rad look into getting 1 for a Renault that is smaller than a 306 1.

1 like this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RENAULT-MEGANE...43c268eb12

[Chris_90]

Thanks was gonna look for one of them

Oil cooler and egt gauge come gonna take some working out tho with oil cooler as no idea how I can get it to screw straight in to block and hold the samwitch plate

[powerandtorque]

I'd clean that subframe up get rid of the grease before you put engine back in much nicer to work on when your not covered in shit

It's a 205 - you can clean the subframe, but you can guarantee a few weeks later it'll be plastered in grime once more. Of course, on the plus side, rusty 205 subframes are exceptionally rare thanks to the inbuilt rust proofing

Oil cooler and egt gauge come gonna take some working out tho with oil cooler as no idea how I can get it to screw straight in to block and hold the samwitch plate

Is it just the lack of a threaded take off in the block that's causing the headache? If so, that's still available from Peugeot for a few quid, or you can remove it from a donor block in the scrappy or whatever.

[Chris_90]

I've put a post about it in the xud section I want to do away with the standard oil cooler/heat transfer plate but need the correct adaptor to fit it.

[Chris_90]

Bit of an update

Turbo is now all back together, egt sensor in, wastegate/ actuator sorted.

What a f**king nightmare! Everything I did took 3 times as long as something always went wrong. I've noticed there is two slight chips on the compressor wheel what I'm not happy about but will just have to live with it and hope for best with it.

So next on list is strip head and get it skimmed and tested hoping it's gonna be done back together and engine in on weekend, but will have to see how it goes as how everything has been going it won't be done this time next year no pics as was to stressed

[Piggy]

Keep at it pal...enjoy it though..get annoyed, step back have a brew and do something different...no point stressing over a hobby

[Chris_90]

Keep at it pal...enjoy it though..get annoyed, step back have a brew and do something different...no point stressing over a hobby

Hopefully no more annoying stuff any more, as nothing needs to be made to fit, everything should be bolt on hopefully.

[ginge191]

I've got some droplinks if you need

took me FOOOOOOOKING ages to find a pair as a lot of suppliers send the wrong sized droplinks.

I ended up purchasing and sending back about 4 sets? give or take, before i got odd ones which were right; sellers assumer they're the same as 106 links. They're not

Another things; brake lines need to be moved if you're to have droplinks on.

google image a gti setup and then look at yours. Means chop and weld the bracket, or "cable tie" again

[Chris_90]

I've got some droplinks if you need

took me FOOOOOOOKING ages to find a pair as a lot of suppliers send the wrong sized droplinks.

I ended up purchasing and sending back about 4 sets? give or take, before i got odd ones which were right; sellers assumer they're the same as 106 links. They're not

Another things; brake lines need to be moved if you're to have droplinks on.

google image a gti setup and then look at yours. Means chop and weld the bracket, or "cable tie" again

We'll I never expected you to post in this thread was under the understanding you didn't like me ha ha!

Thanks for the heads up will check that out, didn't no that, and will keep it in mind about the drop links all money spoke for on engine at min

Why your here what are them switches on the dash? The silver one seems to go no we're and feels fooked? And what's ffs black one do?

[Uberderv]

Strangely my last set of drop links were different colours. They had minor differences but both measured the same so I just wanged them on Cool thread BTW....

[Tom]

I've got some droplinks if you need

took me FOOOOOOOKING ages to find a pair as a lot of suppliers send the wrong sized droplinks.

I ended up purchasing and sending back about 4 sets? give or take, before i got odd ones which were right; sellers assumer they're the same as 106 links. They're not

Another things; brake lines need to be moved if you're to have droplinks on.

google image a gti setup and then look at yours. Means chop and weld the bracket, or "cable tie" again

We'll I never expected you to post in this thread was under the understanding you didn't like me ha ha!

Thanks for the heads up will check that out, didn't no that, and will keep it in mind about the drop links all money spoke for on engine at min

Why your here what are them switches on the dash? The silver one seems to go no we're and feels fooked? And what's ffs black one do?

Glowplugs and rad fan gets my votes.

[Chris_90]

I've got some droplinks if you need

took me FOOOOOOOKING ages to find a pair as a lot of suppliers send the wrong sized droplinks.

I ended up purchasing and sending back about 4 sets? give or take, before i got odd ones which were right; sellers assumer they're the same as 106 links. They're not

Another things; brake lines need to be moved if you're to have droplinks on.

google image a gti setup and then look at yours. Means chop and weld the bracket, or "cable tie" again

We'll I never expected you to post in this thread was under the understanding you didn't like me ha ha!

Thanks for the heads up will check that out, didn't no that, and will keep it in mind about the drop links all money spoke for on engine at min

Why your here what are them switches on the dash? The silver one seems to go no we're and feels fooked? And what's ffs black one do?

Glowplugs and rad fan gets my votes.

Yer I no them two lol but one has been disconnected looks like because the switch melted but not sure what. Sure ginge will shed son light on it. Gotta wire my fans in to a switch anyway at some point.

Strangely my last set of drop links were different colours. They had minor differences but both measured the same so I just wanged them on Cool thread BTW....

Thanks

[Chris_90]

Bit of an update

Stripped head this morning its gone to be skimmed and tested hopefuly be back tomorrow

Sanded the deck of the block and cleaned the threads out of bolt hole then fitted studs.

Before


After


Sat waiting for the head to come back


so thats it at min hopefully have head built tomorrow and on wednesday, see how i get on with it.

Comments welcome

[Piggy]

Oooo arps...good lad!

[Chris_90]

head back £106 later



Will rebuild it tomorrow when i get chance and hope have it on and start finishing other bits on engine

Not confident with the genuine pug seal kit tho cos there's washer and seals i dont even no what there for and ive need seen anything like them whey ive been stripping the head

[Danny2009]

£106! What you had done to it? Would want them to come bolt it back on at that price

[Chris_90]

Skim £28 pressure Test £30 headgasket then vat on top of all that.

Any one no how I can get fire seals out if injector holes?

[sam]

That's a lot for a skimmed head and pressure test i can get mine done for £50 all in if it needed to be done

[Chris_90]

I didn't think that was bad never mind done now least I no it's all good

[Frosty]

I think I paid £70 plus VAT when I got my head skimmed and pressure tested. Prices do seem to vary

[Chris_90]

I did get my head gasket in that price to, so don't think I did bad. Like I say tho not fussed as long as I no it's all good it's fine, will get rebuilding soon hopefully have head finished and on today

[Piggy]

I paid £80+vat for mine...

Used to get them done for £25all in where I used to live

[Chris_90]

Update

Removed the injector fire seals


Cracked on this morning re-ground the valves back in


Fitted new valve stem seals


Once all the valves were back in re-fitted the caps over them then fitted the cam fitted new cam seals bolth ends then bolted the head down



Then looked at fitted the vacuum pump to find i put a seal were there shouldn't be one so off come the rocker cover and the end cam clamp, then fitted the vacuum pump, and then fitted the the pump.



And thats it for today will hopefully have it almost finished tomorrow.

Comments welcome

[powerandtorque]

It's not clear, but did you check the valve clearances after you put it all back together?

It should be done anyway to check that they're all within spec after lapping the valves back in etc, but it's critical to do so if you can't guarantee that you refitted all the valves, shims, and buckets back into their original positions in the head (or if you used a different camshaft to what was originally fitted) as XUD's don't use hydraulic lifters.

You'll need a set of feeler guages to do the job which are only a few quid.

[Chris_90]

It's not clear, but did you check the valve clearances after you put it all back together?

It should be done anyway to check that they're all within spec after lapping the valves back in etc, but it's critical to do so if you can't guarantee that you refitted all the valves, shims, and buckets back into their original positions in the head (or if you used a different camshaft to what was originally fitted) as XUD's don't use hydraulic lifters.

You'll need a set of feeler guages to do the job which are only a few quid.

No i didnt check the valve clearances tbh didnt no i had to im new to all this never been inside an engine before, all the valves went back in there original holes the original cam was used etc,

So what do i need to to check the clearance between the cam and the covers at the top of the valve?

[powerandtorque]

You'll need a set of feeler gauges to check the clearance between the cam lobe and top of the bucket

Something like this will do the job.

I don't have a copy to hand, but I'm sure that the appropriate Haynes manual (either the XUD or 306 one) will detail how to check and the specified clearances. XUD's are generally pretty good and don't seem to go out of tolerance too much from what I've seen, but well worth checking given that it's all been apart and the valves lapped in.

If they're wrong, you tend to get a noisy top end with clearances too large, and risk burning a valve or getting low compression if the clearances are too tight.

[Chris_90]

Ok thanks for that info glad you told me now, will check them out, but if there out how do i go about changing the clearance?