Sam's low boost supercharged rallye

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Sam's low boost supercharged rallye
So has the over heating issue only started since its been charged? Tbh ive never looked into these lynx kits too much. Is heating an issue with them?
Team Eaton


1999 China Blue 306 GTi6 - Eaton Supercharged - 214.5bhp 181lbft
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Yes since being chargerd.No I don't think so other people have been fine.well to get everything to fit you have to run slimline fans but I have 2 '10' set on the quick setting, also taken out therostat so does kinda run cooler

Obviously you add 75 bhp to standard engine everything get put under that much strain.

I've also heard the head gasket where only designed to last 15-20 years then they would fail?

Its annoying now but its literally the only bit of the car I have not replaced/upgraded
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Astor 6 Fast road/track project
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Its normal to go when not have been replaced Sam,

Just a tip mate, since you have to remove the head, buy the DP sandwichplate with to stock HGs and put some power into this baby... trust me youre engine will cope with it easily!!!!
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Paul do you have the link for the dp bits, do you know how much extra power it can take?

Found some pictures from fcs

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Astor 6 Fast road/track project
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My intercooler is as big as your high boost one, and i'm running low boost also. My temperature gauge sits around the 75-80 mark quite happily, i'm stunned really.

If you give it death the water temps barely come up to fan level on the road, whilst the oil cooler keeps engine oil temps well and truly in check so far.

Sounds like you've just been unlucky and pushed a dying HG over the edge.
Night Blue VW Golf 7 GTD : Bianca 306 Rallye : Mini Cooper D (The Mrs')
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HDi Owner for 200k/9 years
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Yeah im like 90 percent shure its the head as on a roads, driving at 70 its goes to 75 on water temp.as soon as give it some power it start to warm up and when I slow down the temps just rocket...

I'm in the process of sourcing a head, going to rebuilt it myself as atm I only drive 8 miles to work and it manily a roads the car never really gets hot.

Also running 16 row oil cooler and 13 row charger cooler
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Astor 6 Fast road/track project
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Well, i have a spare GTi6 engine in my garage that came out of my rallye. The head is a tapper, but i'm not after much for the whole thing. A head is a head and even tappers can be fixed. Smile It is already without manifolds, flywheel etc.

Have you got low compression at all on any cylinders?
Night Blue VW Golf 7 GTD : Bianca 306 Rallye : Mini Cooper D (The Mrs')
[Image: wallye-gtd.JPG?raw=1]
HDi Owner for 200k/9 years
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Sounds stupid, have you changed the Thermostat?! They should never run at 70-75*c, that's a strong indication of a sticky thermostat...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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I don't run one.took it out to lower my water temp.
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Astor 6 Fast road/track project
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You shouldnt do that, they are designed to work with a thermostat and im not 100% sure why but it creates an issue running without one.
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(11-08-2013, 01:09 PM)7057sam Wrote: I don't run one.took it out to lower my water temp.

Precisely why this is happening.

You CANNOT take out a thermostat since it's now easier for most of the water flow to go down the bypass pipe rather than through the engine... You're getting about a 10th of the water flow you should be getting... The bypass pipe is there to ensure that you get SOME water flow through the engine to stop hot spots, but the bypass isn't cooled so that the water warms up fast, but warms up evenly.

If you want to have no thermostat - I would NOT recommend it, since the IQ Correction maps will always be to cock and it'll be overfuelling like a whore most of the time, but anyway, get the thermostat and jam the spring the other side of the valve - that'll have the same effect of the thermostat always being open, but always blocking off the bypass pipe.

I'd sort that sooner than later otherwise you really will cook the engine and cylinder head.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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Sam, WTF you arent running a thermostat? why do you think cars overheat when the thermostat is sticking? or not even there!

Get a new thermostat in there ASAP, its only a tenner.... Ruan is 100% right!
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Cheers Ru i knew it was something along them lines Smile. If its gone into the red id imagine its already cooked.
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I pretty shure we removed the stat but keep all the spring bit in they? But I'll double check within the next conming days.

He s been working on pug for 25 years plus so it maybe me saying we removed the therostat completely when he actually only removed the bit for the water to flow? Ill txt him later and ask him I can't see him doing it if it was going to be damaging to the car.

I also got some new pads which are proper pug ones which should nt squel.the car hopefully going in start of next week to see if its the head. I've sourced a head atm so that will be checked over faced up and put a new gasket on it.

Fingercrossed maybe have to happy progress in rhe the next few weeks
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Astor 6 Fast road/track project
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