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silverzx Wrote:Just went out with a pocket mirror and torch. There is definitely a large crack going up the back of the bracket.
I do have my LUCAS bracket in the shed still.
What does everyone think? Use the LUCAS bracket or get a bosch bracket?
As for the right hand bolt, I didn't even realise it had gone missing!
The brackets are the same just studs in different places....
I thought we just moved the studs anyway? Cant remember as was ages ago, but thats what I normally do...but maybe not if you had a bosch bracket right there ready to go maybe... You ever un done those bolts to adjust timing since having it fitted?
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darrenjlobb Wrote:The brackets are the same just studs in different places....
I thought we just moved the studs anyway? Cant remember as was ages ago, but thats what I normally do...but maybe not if you had a bosch bracket right there ready to go maybe... You ever un done those bolts to adjust timing since having it fitted?
The bracket was off Mark, not sure if it's off a 306, the pump isn't I know that for sure (it looks different to my GF's standard bosch'ed 306). Think after you fitted it you said we may as well of left the Lucas one on? Can't remember why though.
As for the bolts, never touched them, only thing I've touched is the LDA pin's housing (4 torx bits) & max fuel screw as far as the pump goes.
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It was off a ZX if memory serves me correctly can't see why it would be different though, its the same engine, unless it has a different cam cover maybe? Just move the studs in the lucas one and swap them over
also find that these are amazing for getting to that bottom bolt......failing that a 13mm spanner cut in half works nearly as well
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Heh mark that laser spanner is almost exactly the same as the "correct" bosch spanner for the job!
Now you say trent i remember, that bracket was mising the bolts for the cambelt cover or something as remember having to cable tie it or something, think its from a motor which had the clip on covers not bolt on or something..
I cant understand how that bolt has vibrated loose though...
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mark_airey Wrote:It was off a ZX if memory serves me correctly can't see why it would be different though, its the same engine, unless it has a different cam cover maybe? Just move the studs in the lucas one and swap them over
also find that these are amazing for getting to that bottom bolt......failing that a 13mm spanner cut in half works nearly as well
You make it sound so easy! Am I right in thinking I'll need to lock off the engine etc? If so I'm way out of my depth.
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It is easy, but yes you need to lock the timing as the belt has to come off because you need to remove the pump from the bracket
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mark_airey Wrote:It is easy, but yes you need to lock the timing as the belt has to come off because you need to remove the pump from the bracket
As I thought.
Anyone care to do a write up? Or is that 7 page thread pretty much a guide?
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i found locking the crank was easiest when you taped an allen key to you rubber gloves!
if you watch darrens vids he mentions a small hole next to the starter.
it just the right size for a 4mm allen key. if you run your finger near it you should be able to feel it with your finger tips. i taped the allen get to my finger so it was easy to manover and then get some one to turn the wheel whilst its in 5th.
and yes if any thing goes wrong look at my guide on how not to do a conversion!
Quote:(15:06:27) Toms306: Wd40d it and had a good tug, came straight off
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Ben Jay Wrote:i found locking the crank was easiest when you taped an allen key to you rubber gloves!
if you watch darrens vids he mentions a small hole next to the starter.
it just the right size for a 4mm allen key. if you run your finger near it you should be able to feel it with your finger tips. i taped the allen get to my finger so it was easy to manover and then get some one to turn the wheel whilst its in 5th.
and yes if any thing goes wrong look at my guide on how not to do a conversion!
4mm allen key!!!!! no wonder your timing was a tooth out! :o should be more like 6mm
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oh...woops! at least it works now!
Quote:(15:06:27) Toms306: Wd40d it and had a good tug, came straight off
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mark_airey Wrote:Ben Jay Wrote:i found locking the crank was easiest when you taped an allen key to you rubber gloves!
if you watch darrens vids he mentions a small hole next to the starter.
it just the right size for a 4mm allen key. if you run your finger near it you should be able to feel it with your finger tips. i taped the allen get to my finger so it was easy to manover and then get some one to turn the wheel whilst its in 5th.
and yes if any thing goes wrong look at my guide on how not to do a conversion!
4mm allen key!!!!! no wonder your timing was a tooth out! :o should be more like 6mm
Meh, this will make bugger all different, I use a bent coat hanger, the amount is can move in the hole is not enough to get a tooth wrong. Unfortunately dont try and start with this still in the fly as I did before!
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Heh yeh, use anything, just make sure you center it up by moving fowards / back to feel the slop, and then center it , but if your new to this, good practice to use some thing the right size....
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LOL, wouldn't expect anything different from either of you two if it fits it'll do.
I suppose the "correct" way would be to use the proper "tool" for locking the XUD fly but since that is essentially a piece of bent rod whats the point!
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darrenjlobb Wrote:Heh yeh, use anything, just make sure you center it up by moving fowards / back to feel the slop, and then center it , but if your new to this, good practice to use some thing the right size....
Could you elaborate on this please?
Gonna your video a few times tomorrow: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RfTnbjIJnCs
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When I pops in move the wheel back and forwards on each "stop" so clock wise so it clinks then anti until it clinks again. This right?
Quote:(15:06:27) Toms306: Wd40d it and had a good tug, came straight off
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silverzx Wrote:darrenjlobb Wrote:Heh yeh, use anything, just make sure you center it up by moving fowards / back to feel the slop, and then center it , but if your new to this, good practice to use some thing the right size....
Could you elaborate on this please?
Gonna your video a few times tomorrow: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RfTnbjIJnCs
He means if you use something too small to lock it, that you should rotate the engine back and forward to the end of the movement of the flywheel against locking device and work out where the middle is, or you could just use something the right size drill bits work well IMO
Its also a lot easier if you remove the starter motor (only the 3 big allen bolts you can see from the gearbox end) so you can see what your doing if its the first time you have locked the flywheel mate.
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Theres no easier way then locking off the fly, cam and pump and then proceeding to take all the cam belt covers off, cam pulley and aux belt and then adjusting the cam belt tensioner to the release position to then remove the belt and effectively the pump (and then refit in reverse order).
I'm pretty sure I don't have half the tools to do it let alone the confidence! :/
Not an ideal time to be doing it with Uni exams all next month.
Damn it!
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If you have a 10mm spanner, an 11mm spanner, 13mm spanner, a 17mm spanner then you have 90% of the tools required,
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mark_airey Wrote:If you have a 10mm spanner, an 11mm spanner, 13mm spanner, a 17mm spanner then you have 90% of the tools required,
I don't!
Gonna have to get down my local hardware shop and buy a set!
Proper job & Mills on tomorrows list of to - do's.
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Hmm..
On the subject of tools, is there anything else I'll need? What size is the crank puller nut?
Edit: Might get something like this too: http://tinyurl.com/btyoqdu
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Trent you have no idea what your doing, I dont mean that in a harsh way, but you couldnt tell if the pump bracket had snapped, my 2p I just dont recommend you try changing the bracket yourself. If you want to learn about DT's then do something that doesn't risk f*cking your engine.
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If you can get it down here somehow fella I can flip it around for you....
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@Dave: Appreciate the honesty! I don't really know whats what but I haven't really got a choice mate.
It's either fix it myself or get the scrap man to collect it.
There are a few people fairly local (Ruan, Connor, DevilsFuel to name a few) who would probably know what to do and I'm happy to pay for the help so hopefully someone will help me out.
@Darren: Really appreciate the offer but don't really have a clue how I'd get it down there.
Either way going to go buy some tools tomorrow..
It's time to man up and learn how to change the bracket/pump/belt. At least I'll have a better idea of how it all works.
Worse comes to worse I kill it.
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Really hope you get this sorted mate, I hear dave, if you watch guides etc so you know in your head what your doing, agree someone popping over wouldn't do any harm though, Ruan likes a road trip
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Currently on motorway tailoring the car to garage my dad works at.
Got a 406 Bosch bracket and 306 Bosch bracket both from scrap yard earlier. The 406 one is bigger and chunkier, the 306 one looks a better fit. Should I put the 306 one on or try 406? Will upload pics when get home.
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Just use the 306 one imo. If the 406 one is too different then something else is just likely to go wrong. Just make sure the studs are in the right location for a Bosch pump, not the lucas holes.
Feel free to give me a call/text when your doing it if you get stuck with anything mate
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Well you have my number two chap if you get any issues
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1 - 406 & 306 Bosch bracket from scrap yard
2 - Tided up and painted
3 - Recovering car with my dad
4 - Parked up at garage for Monday
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