Dr_Jekyll & Mr_Hyde Estate Project

[dr_jekyll]

Lol phew, yeah, OK!

Was going to say!!

Ngl was gonna be a little surprised if it was wrong as its ran like that for just over a year with no hicups

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[dr_jekyll]

Back again on the turbo. Think i f*cked up and hadnt torqued the adapter down enough as ive lost a bolt thats created a blow.

Things costing me a small fortune in gaskets so was wondering how people seal the turbo to the mani? Been told by several people a gaskets not needed but my adapter plate looks a little pitted. Any advise or just run new gaskets?

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[Uberderv]

You could try a copper gasket or possibly polish the mating surfaces. Great project BTW

[dr_jekyll]

You could try a copper gasket or possibly polish the mating surfaces. Great project BTW

Cheers.

Im guessing sticking with gaskets maybe best then

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[mr_fish]

   

Never had an issue.

[fatlapit]

defo need gaskets

[Ruan]

No gaskets from the factory...

But I just wire wheel the entire lot and give a small smear of firegum - has always worked great for me.

[dr_jekyll]

Well ive tried with and they always end up leaking. Had the adapter i made up on a wi dow and shes flat. Just pitted so will give the firegum a go

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[RetroPug]

I use this a lot:
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/g...er-sealant

Cheaper on trade or elsewhere obviously.

It is temperature and oil resistant. I use it as an exhaust sealant and a gasket maker when necessary, eg. for gti6 cam covers.

Just offering an alternative as I don't like firegum much for exhausts and really, really don't like gun gum at all: it is water soluable....and an exhaust has water flowing through it! I know this is a different application but still.

[madmadmax]

turbos and exhaust manifolds get to more than 350c so that silicon in useless

[dr_jekyll]

Couldnt find no firegum today so just gonna order it offline

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*online


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[Poodle]

I get nothing but trouble with gaskets between turbo and manifold, better off getting the adaptor faces skimmed and using some firegum as Ruan suggests.

[dr_jekyll]

I get nothing but trouble with gaskets between turbo and manifold, better off getting the adaptor faces skimmed and using some firegum as Ruan suggests.

Just popped to my local engineering firm (aot) as i havnt got access to a set of parrallels at work for the mill (old boy decides to lock them up as his own :/)

The guy there is under the impression its a pointless excersise. Hes checked the flatness of the adapter and assures me its still straight but said to me theres no point in machining the adapter unless i intend to have all the mating surfaces lapped at which point he said theres no need for any gasket or paste to be present. He believes that if i intend to use paste the slight pitting on the surface will actually help to grip the paste but i must degrease and remove any form of soot and oil residue from all surfaces (think that goes without saying tho)

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[dr_jekyll]

Bit stuck. People agree with him on this or should i still ask to have it skimmed even if it is straight?

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[welshpug]

no point if it is straight.

[dr_jekyll]

Ok. I'll make sure its deffo clean and degreased then

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[Ruan]

Clean (wire wheel...), degrease, use sealant of choice.

I've always used firegum and never had a problem, as long as you don't go mental on the amount you put on - just whatever you do, don't put it together and then start it and rag it up the road, it'll still be wet and it'll just blow out the sides. Leave a few hours and then start and idle for 5 mins and it'll warm up enough, stop and leave for another few hours and it'll be fine.

The way I see it is that the flange isn't moving, once that paste is in there and it's set, it's not gonna get pushed out or anything. I've had some SERIOUSLY warped adapters that I've not even bothered flattening and sealed them fine with firegum. Long as it's set and you don't rag it up the road in the first 30 seconds, it'll be fine. Make sure your fasteners are good and you actually torque them up correctly.

[dr_jekyll]

Clean (wire wheel...), degrease, use sealant of choice.

I've always used firegum and never had a problem, as long as you don't go mental on the amount you put on - just whatever you do, don't put it together and then start it and rag it up the road, it'll still be wet and it'll just blow out the sides. Leave a few hours and then start and idle for 5 mins and it'll warm up enough, stop and leave for another few hours and it'll be fine.

The way I see it is that the flange isn't moving, once that paste is in there and it's set, it's not gonna get pushed out or anything. I've had some SERIOUSLY warped adapters that I've not even bothered flattening and sealed them fine with firegum. Long as it's set and you don't rag it up the road in the first 30 seconds, it'll be fine.

My biggest worry has been putting to much in and it squeezing out and posing as debris to hit the exhaust wheel.

Reassuring to read that tho. Unluckily she cant be driven afterwards anyway as the mots just ran out.

On the upside it shouldnt fail, all polybushed, coilovers and spherical top mounts are still spot on, arb links are fine. Brakes just been rebuilt with new pads, disks and cables and to top it off new window screen.

Only iffys are the decat which my tester allows and harnesses. Said he dosnt like them in a road car unless there spot on but was anal enough to buy that harness bar to make sure they were at the right angle and ive got eyelets in on load bearing plates so should be all good

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[Danny Wideboy]

I've always used firegum and no gasket with no issues.
Would do again as well.

[dr_jekyll]

Cheers guys [emoji106] got some ordered

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[dr_jekyll]

Turbos held up well since the rebuild.

Come to a bit of a situation now tho.
Cars having to do 400mile a week and the lump is deffinatley showing signs of age (unsolvable oil leaks, throws water out, wisps of white smoke and still consumes oil)

The way i see it this old gals not got long left at all and i can only see two answers for her

- reshell into a clean hdi estate with low miles

- build and prepare another engine to drop in

Either way its a hard choice to make and at least ive got some time to think while i save and consider my options. Reshell would mean a nice clean slate, but transfering everything over to reincarnate the car properly.. just she will stay shiney.
Or build a lump to do the setup justice, possibility of 16v rods and arps and the deffinate side of skimmed with new gasket, fresh r70, fresh injectors, cambelt, new clutch setup and a lick of paint

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[Danny Wideboy]

I'd be inclined to put another engine in it if I were you.
Much less work to do and more readily available than decent shells these days.

[dr_jekyll]

I'd be inclined to put another engine in it if I were you.
Much less work to do and more readily available than decent shells these days.

You'll be glad to know im gonna take your advice

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Well i guess we can call this redemption for the old gal.

Finally decided on the cars fate.. and that is too build it the engine i believe it deserves!
Hopefully the current engine has taught me enough to see this done properly aswell.

So i'll start by laying out my plan
- pre 100k block
- skimmed head
- victor reinz gasket
- arp headstuds
- cambelt
- fresh aux setup
- r70
- 1.6fps
- new rad
- new clutch (sodding the cg to go helix)
- fresh gt2052s
- low mileage box

And two items im not decided on are
- arp rod bolts
- lsd

Basically i want the engine to be overkill to strentghen it up for the daily usage it gets. The cars still gonna be on the road while this lumps being built aswell.

Gonna tidy the bay up further when the engine comes out and finish the engine and box off in the lovley garish colour of volvo penta green.

Alot of people probably feel sick at the colour but i absolutley love the industrial/marine look derv lumps. It was either gonna be this or catapillar yellow and just dont like yellow and red together... least it will stand out tho [emoji23]
Plans atm still only go as far as a heart transplant. I literally still have no desire to have the car sprayed properly as ive always loved the contrast of a clean bay against a scruffey exterior.


Ok none of this is gonna happen quickly, recently just taken a pay cut to go back to college to get my engineering quals. Its like being back at school but at the end of the 4 years i should be pretty setup, if only i had knuckled down instead of now at the age of 25!


First step in my plan is to collect the parts, then the tools to do the job (engine stand,crane etc) then finally buy an engine.

Thanks to zx_volcane arp headstuds are already (hopefully!) on the way for the build.
Already got a doner turbo sat here and been looking at sending the coldside away to get a larger billet wheel fitted as the next purchase.



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[bashbarnard]

Awesome news on the engine build.
On a side note well done for going back to collage to learn new skills it takes some balls to do. Most just totter allong doing what theyre doing. I hope it pays off for you


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[dr_jekyll]

Awesome news on the engine build.
On a side note well done for going back to collage to learn new skills it takes some balls to do. Most just totter allong doing what theyre doing. I hope it pays off for you


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Cheers lad. Even if im qualified at 30 way our generation is going it'll give me 40 years on decent pay

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[dr_jekyll]

Seems were cooking on gas now.
Mr horton very kindly sorted out some new arps for me whuch have now arrived. Double checked them built up against a new stock bolt and alls lovley.. simply simply lovley!

So after the studs i didnt expect to find an engine a week later on facebook with the type of low mileage (107k) i was looking for. Usually abit sceptical of buying things like that off fb but when i read it was carl chambers selling it felt a little more relaxed. So off i went to get it after scrapping out every penny jar.
Picked it up in my mates pretty stock stage 1 moonstone estate which to no surprise decked the arse.
So upon arriving found that the engine had a regular service history with genuine parts and had recently had the aux setup all rebuilt... spot on! Car had been owned by carl originally then sold to a local fella who used to run it between the two villages and thats it. Was guttered when i saw the doner car it was stolen from tho... astor grey anyway loaded it up and got it home.

So in the end i managed to get a complete engine with all auxiliries, loom, box, ecu (362 same as mine again!), bsi, key chip and turbo on known 107k for £250. Pretty chuffed tbh!

As a quicky does anyone know the reason behind the thermostat housing being metal on this one? Ive seen them but never owned one and have always presumed it was an earlier hdi engine. Works out nicley as i want it modified to run the rad pipe shorter and more direct and can polish it all after.

On that note tho im now skint. Spent the last i dare on the car before christmas and now really do need to get buying presents!! Might unbolt tge odd piece here and there to start cleaning it all down for painting but dont want to go to indepth atm in the cold

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[Eeyore]

Looks good and good that it was vaguely local pick up as well! love the pencil case.

[dr_jekyll]

Works been moving pretty slow today and been having some thoughts about the how i want this engine to look. As ive said ive always loved the industrial/marine engine look but unsure if im brave enough to have a stab at it.

So really i see two clear choices.

1 - black everything -
This will pretty much look exactly how it does now but on a much cleaner scale. Nicley painted gearbox and everything kept dead subtle


2 - volvo penta industrial -
Pretty much a massivley in your face colour. Gear box and all will be volvo penta colours. Engine cover will be sodded of to show off a clean head unpainted head. Clean injectors and polished high pressure fuel lines. Top rad pipe relocated (rotated 180 degree with some fabrication to run it short and clean) and some the usuall dash of polished pipes and subtle black silicone.


So yeah basically im after opinions. Subtle or balls out?

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[Uberderv]

Metal thermostat housing also includes a fuel heater so the fuel lines may differ slightly and it also has a screw in green top temp probe. Looking good progress wise I think your green block and shiney/black bits idea will look good.

[dr_jekyll]

Need to go in the shed and have a proper look as was assuming it was the same as the plastic one so could just get away with filling the original pcd with weld and building up new areas to rotate and redrill the pcd.

Hoping it would come out as i imagine it would. Just feels like a brave commitment to go with such a garish colour.

Spose i do like different and standing out and will certianly push it abit more out there. Colour idea came around as a joke when mates kept refering to my car as a boat [emoji4][emoji23][emoji23]

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