Is this a cheap Oil and Filter change?

[steve1001]

Hi Guys

Just ordered oil and a filter from GSF. Total price £16.34.

980AA0171 - 10W40 4.5Litre - Carlube
120PC0160 - Oil Filter - Purflux

I used the FEB40 code for 40% off the 'normal' price.

I might just stock up at this price. Before I do, do any of you get it cheaper anywhere else?

Steve

PS no affiliation etc

[Toms306]

It's cheap, but its hardly decent oil tbf.

[steve1001]

It's cheap, but its hardly decent oil tbf.

Hi Tom. Fair comment.

The CarLube bottle specification is ... API SL/CF and ACEA A3/BE

The Haynes manual says to use API CF/CD and/or ACEA B3

The spec looks close enough, or am I in trouble?

I change oil around 6000-10000 miles, so it wont be in there long.

Steve

[pug306driver]

ecp shell 10 40 fully synthetic is on offer at the moment £16 inc vat

put it in our car last year, 1/2 litre top up all year, 5 k miles ish.

[Piggy]

Spec and quality are very different things

[Toms306]

It's cheap, but its hardly decent oil tbf.

Hi Tom. Fair comment.

The CarLube bottle specification is ... API SL/CF and ACEA A3/BE

The Haynes manual says to use API CF/CD and/or ACEA B3

The spec looks close enough, or am I in trouble?

I change oil around 6000-10000 miles, so it wont be in there long.

Steve

It's your car and is obviously up to you what oil to choose. There probably won't be any immediate bad effects from using it, but it won't do you any long term favours.

I'd go for a bit more quality personally, especially as you're going for a genuine filter. The Shell stuff mentioned above is good value, I've used that a few times myself.

[cully]

ive given up buying 5ltrs of oil at a time
now started buying 25ltr drums

Comma [XFXS25L] 25 litre X-Flow Type XS 10W40 - £48
its fine for our daily road cars

[Piggy]

Not a bad call cully...
Where you get it from?
I do so many services now, be well worth it

[Anton]

I too buy bulk, so much better in the long run

[cully]

Not a bad call cully...
Where you get it from?
I do so many services now, be well worth it

our local MOTOR PARTS DIRECT
through a cash trade account

be warned it is £75 +VAT retail

[Dum-Dum]

Isn't purflux genuine Pug?

[welshpug]

they make the genuine filters in most cases yes, doesn't mean that the purflux boxed filter is the same though, there are 4 different o.e part numbers for example.

[DeeTurbo]

I to buy 20-25L of oil and a 24 pack of filters at a time. I use to do an oil and filter change every other month when I was doing 36k miles a year. I also used to service my families cars. It worked out so much cheaper buying bulk.

[adam b]

Piggy, you can buy 20L of quartz 9000 5w40 fully synthetic from Peugeot in Tewkesbury for 45 quid

[powerandtorque]

It will be absolutely fine - it's 10W40 semi used in a comparatively old engine in a low state of tune, not a highly-strung race engine operating in extreme conditions.

Does anyone really believe that you're going to see a real world difference between Carplan (which will be something mainstream re-branded) and any other brand, even over 100k+ miles, everything else being equal?

[Poodle]

Absolutely, what do you think happened to a lot of those dv6s!

[Toms306]

DV6s and PDs die from the wrong oil, as do MA gearboxes... Think I'd rather stick to something quality myself!

You're right that on an old DW10 you can pretty much run anything as they aren't fussy at all, but that isn't the case with a lot of modern engines!

[Eeyore]

yeh the carlube stuff is super cheap. I only buy fairly decent stuff.

[toseland]

Usually use some decent comma stuff or shell helix that I got in there atm.

[powerandtorque]

DV6's won't die because you use one brand of oil over another, providing that it's the correct spec/grade and is changed as per the servicing schedule.

They'll die primarily because of the injectors carboning up the oil and blocking the turbo oil feed.

[Poodle]

We'll have to agree to disagree on that one.

[Ruan]

DV6's won't die because you use one brand of oil over another, providing that it's the correct spec/grade and is changed as per the servicing schedule.

They'll die primarily because of the injectors carboning up the oil and blocking the turbo oil feed.

IMHO it's all to do with people using shit oil and under extreme temperature it decomposing and going to shit from the heat of regeneration, rather than staying stable. Same as PDs with shit oil in - it's why they eat their cams, same as the V6 TDi.

One of the main reasons other than better machining tolerances that engines have dropped in displacement and improved in efficiency is due to improvements in lubrication technology - you couldn't get engines reliable on any old oil! There's a good reason that an XUD9s 'recommended' is 10w40 semi synthetic, the DW10 HDi is moved onto 10w40 fully synthetic, they switched to roller rockers and hydraulic lifters in the valvetrain for reductions in internal friction which require better lubrication tech than bucket-over-shim designs...

IMHO good quality oil is the key on modern motors - frankly race engines have an easy life in comparison, they don't have to deal with oil dilution from regeneration, oil dilution due to the fact the air filter hasn't been replaced in the last 40k, 12,000 miles service intervals (if you're lucky - people never service their cars on time!) on the old 10/40 semi that was on the wall at whatever backstreet garage the owner took it to last time, repeated cold starts, never getting up to temperature and some redline for a good time 5 seconds after the motor was started from cold... It's no wonder that DV6s get the reputation they do, 'oh it's only a shitty peugeot' they say, 'it's not a race car' - then moan when it goes wrong, but also moan when it doesn't do 80mpg and produce 140hp!

[madmadmax]

i have to say ruan is correct, as a mechanic over the years i have seen and had alot of noise related engine problems that where down to oil quality and i have only had bad experiences with carlube which put me off most cheap oils and made me lerne about oil and how to fined good cheep oils.

[RetroPug]

I've found the genuine, recommended oil to be relatively inexpensive on every car I've owned. This has made using genuine oil an easy decision. Every time it has been approximately 22-23 pounds for a 5L bottle, or less if bought in bulk as others have said. This is what decent quality oil typically starts at anyway, in fact often the brands with a good reputation tend to be more expensive than that.

That way it isn't costing the earth and you're definitely not only using broadly the correct spec- it is designed to run on that lubricant.

[adam b]

I notice big temperature differences with different oils in my standard car. More so on track, but it must carry over into the real world.

[steve1001]

Ok, so I can see that there must be a difference in quality between a £15 for 4.5ltr oil and a £25 for 4.5ltr oil.

If the spec of the two oils is the same (A3/BE CF/CL and so on), then, as I see it, both oils must be capable of doing the job in the engine.

So, what is this 'quality' element and how do I know quality when I see it? Why is a Shell oil better than a Tetrosyl oil?

If the specs are the same then I can only judge the quality, by going by the price. The higher the price, the better the quality (which will all break apart if I am being overcharged for my oil!).

Steve

PS In the past, when I have looked at oil as it was draining out I have seen the sludge, on quite a few occasions. I can't remember the brand though. With this Carlube stuff I have not noticed any sludge.

[Poodle]

Specification is entirely separate to quality, it just means something conforms to certain industry standards. Try it out with trolley jacks, take a toolzone one vs snap-on - both will be made to conform to the same industry standard (bs en139 or something like that), but you can guarantee if you use the toolzone one heavily, run it close to tolerance or misuse it a bit then it'll die in fairly short order. There's a good guide about somewhere on understanding oils and what to look for on the label, i'm sure somebody more helpful will be along to link it soon. Or you could search for it tbf, although you'll have more luck using google than the forum search function.

[madmadmax]

this is where i started out on my oil lerning curve http://www.opieoils.co.uk/t-technical-info.aspx

the way i judge the quality is to look at the tecnical infomation published and then use it and listen to the engine and feel how it works as the better quality oil should make the engine run quieter and smoother, at least thats what i noted when i moved from carlube to fusch in and xud

[steve1001]

this is where i started out on my oil lerning curve http://www.opieoils.co.uk/t-technical-info.aspx

the way i judge the quality is to look at the tecnical infomation published and then use it and listen to the engine and feel how it works as the better quality oil should make the engine run quieter and smoother, at least thats what i noted when i moved from carlube to fusch in and xud

Thanks madmax. I'm reading through that site now. I think I will try a more up market oil next time and note the difference it makes. I'm pretty familiar with the sounds and vibration from this engine so I'll detect a difference (hopefully).

Steve