2.2 Dimma Hdi

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2.2 Dimma Hdi
Did you get any further fault finding your ecu control problems?

Car does look absolutely stunning in those photos!
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No I haven't got any further yet, haven't had time really

And thank you Smile
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Considering changing the engine to a 6,

Obviously I would would need to change fuel tank, fuel lines, wiring, clocks, subframe, radiator etc all of which is straight swap.

The only difficult bits I have thought have would be sourcing some driveshafts as are longer, where it's been converted to hydraulic clutch the bulkhead as been modified and not sure if it would be possible to convert back to cable so I was thinking of doing a hydraulic to cable adapter like people do with the v6 conversions but the opposite way around, would this be possible?

I haven't looked to see if the car had to be modified to accept the cable gearshift so would have to look into that.

Is there anything that I have overlooked?

My reasoning for considering the change is that I'm getting frustrated with not being able to sort the boost issue, I then wonder once sorted how reliable is it going to be as I have already killed one turbo, and at the moment there is oil coming out of the boost pipes.

Also the engine is quite tight in the engine bay as its so big, so the cam sensor wiring rubs through on the master cylinder.

Also it's based on a rally car so should really be petrol.

But then on the other I think it would be awesome with 2.2 running correctly and is definitely different! And It's great for cruising on the motorway and when running properly i love the low down torque.

But I haven't had a quick petrol yet and you can't beat the sound of a quick petrol, as i would most probably low boost it so not dropping power.
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You wont need to change the fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel lines, sub frame, wiring (other than the appropriate plug and play engine loom).

Clocks, engine, box, exhaust down pipe, engine loom and that should be it. Driveshafts might be the same.


Dont know about swapping the clutch back to cable, might need a new pedal box depending on how its been modified.
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If it's already modified to be hydraulic, what about a 6 speed box from one of the newer EW engined petrol pugs?
[Image: Ty8kl7b.jpg]
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Is there anyone on here that can help with your boost / ecu issues?

Surely must be easier for someone that has the know how to put it right than do an engine swap.

The gt2256v should be very reliable if its mapped in correctly, or have you thought about running from an mbc?
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finding the issue with the boost must be simpler than swapping it back...plus you will make loads more power than a '6 and mapped right it should be reliable...

stick at it dood
Wishes for more power...
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Im not really sure who to ask, does anyone still do mapping for vnts on hdis? apparently tb isnt anymore so havent been able to get hold of him.

So far I have changed 3 vacuum selenoids and the map sensor, still got nothing, although changing the map sensor reduced the smoke abit. I tried adjusting the selonoid again the other day but just blew a boost hose straight off and didnt have any tools with me at the time.

I spoke to pro steve he said to try adjusting the length of the arm on the turbo, but if i block the atmospheric port on the selenoid i get full travel on the arm, so surely it has to be a fault within the ecu as its not adjusting on its own?

Also i think i need a new heater motor, how easy are they to replace?

(27-01-2014, 11:32 AM)Dum-Dum Wrote: You wont need to change the fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel lines, sub frame, wiring (other than the appropriate plug and play engine loom).

Clocks, engine, box, exhaust down pipe, engine loom and that should be it. Driveshafts might be the same.


Dont know about swapping the clutch back to cable, might need a new pedal box depending on how its been modified.

The sub frame has been modified with what looks like a sledge hammer for the 2.2 box to clear, so thats why i would change that.

The bulkhead has been modified to accept the master cylinder, although im not sure to what extend, from what i can see there is some weld around where it comes through
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Heater motor is behind the dash, but not sure if its do-able with the dashboard in place, someone will come and correct me probably.
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Bought an unlocked ecu today so will try that when it arrives, if that doesn't solve it then I really am running out of ideas
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jimmer id gti6 this as you said, rather than chase problem after problem. That way it would be more plug in play, and less question marks for failures.
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Well it was cheap enough, so thought I would give it ago, if it isn't the issue I'm sure I could sell the ecu for the same I paid for it.

I'm sure I will be more than happy with the 2.2 if it's running correctly Smile

Although there is a low boost engine on the 6 forum I keep looking at
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If it doesn't work, change out the vacuum actuator on the turbo for a boost actuator from any wastegated turbo, and run it off an mbc at under 25psi.

Should work absolutely fine, and give you pretty much all the functionality you'll need given that I'm highly doubting you're running this as a daily?
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What he said ^^
| Dyno Power Runs & Steady State Facilities Available, Just Ask Anytime |
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[Image: sigi-2.png]
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on the other issue the heater motor is a piece of piss, just a few screws on the bottom iirc, pull the rubber cover off the side, pull the wires out and the motor just drops out of the housing . .Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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(29-01-2014, 09:49 AM)zx_volcane Wrote: If it doesn't work, change out the vacuum actuator on the turbo for a boost actuator from any wastegated turbo, and run it off an mbc at under 25psi.

Should work absolutely fine, and give you pretty much all the functionality you'll need given that I'm highly doubting you're running this as a daily?

Okay thanks, will look into that if it doesn't sort the fault, I have a ko3 lying around so guessing the actuator on that will be fine?

And no it's not a daily.
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(29-01-2014, 01:31 AM)Jimmer021 Wrote: Well it was cheap enough, so thought I would give it ago, if it isn't the issue I'm sure I could sell the ecu for the same I paid for it.

I'm sure I will be more than happy with the 2.2 if it's running correctly Smile

Although there is a low boost engine on the 6 forum I keep looking at

why not, go for it?
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wow, you could park a bus in the front arch gap!
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(29-01-2014, 05:05 PM)Wolverine1091 Wrote: wow, you could park a bus in the front arch gap!

yeah . .errr that's the idea . .lol
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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(29-01-2014, 05:15 PM)Mattcheese31 Wrote:
(29-01-2014, 05:05 PM)Wolverine1091 Wrote: wow, you could park a bus in the front arch gap!

yeah . .errr that's the idea . .lol

is this some french bummer thing?
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(29-01-2014, 05:27 PM)Wolverine1091 Wrote:
(29-01-2014, 05:15 PM)Mattcheese31 Wrote:
(29-01-2014, 05:05 PM)Wolverine1091 Wrote: wow, you could park a bus in the front arch gap!

yeah . .errr that's the idea . .lol

is this some french bummer thing?

no, are you an English fool? . . .Wink

The Peugeot presented at the motor show in Paris in 1994, a rally version of the 306, called Maxi. As a basis, the car took the 306 S16 and it maintained the measures bore and stroke of the engine. The electronic control unit Bosch series was replaced with a model Magneti Marelli, which decreed an increase in power to 255 hp on 8200 rev / min. To make it more aerodynamic, several elements were introduced to the body, such as a spoiler and a new body kit. The suspension had a MacPherson strut axle configuration and a diagram trailing arms and torsion bars on the rear axle.
His debut took place at the rally on the routes of Alsace in 1994, valid for the French rally championship. In 1996, the car won the championship led by Gilles Panizzi . During the same period, the Maxi was used in some solid evidence to the WRC, ranking second in the Monte Carlo Rally and the Tour de Corse thanks to François Delecour . In 1998, the car is up to date and attains the power of 280 hp, with results similar to two years ago.
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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(29-01-2014, 04:42 PM)procta Wrote:
(29-01-2014, 01:31 AM)Jimmer021 Wrote: Well it was cheap enough, so thought I would give it ago, if it isn't the issue I'm sure I could sell the ecu for the same I paid for it.

I'm sure I will be more than happy with the 2.2 if it's running correctly Smile

Although there is a low boost engine on the 6 forum I keep looking at

why not, go for it?

Because my insurance is also due in a couple of weeks aswell
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so it's a 306 with a bodykit then Tongue
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(29-01-2014, 06:51 PM)Wolverine1091 Wrote: so it's a 306 with a bodykit then Tongue

no not quite. . . . . .Smile
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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(29-01-2014, 06:51 PM)Wolverine1091 Wrote: so it's a 306 with a bodykit then Tongue

Baaaaaaaan!!!!!
Wishes for more power...
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(29-01-2014, 06:51 PM)Wolverine1091 Wrote: so it's a 306 with a bodykit then Tongue

Oh dear....
[Image: siggy1.jpg]

the smokey old bus that sounds like a tractor...
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Wink 
You could always sell it? Wink
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Looking great! Not many about. Dimma 306's do look terribly well. We had a yellow one in Ireland recently.
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Well got around to trying the new ecu and it's still the same, when I actually get some time will try adjusting the arm on the turbo, also need to replace all the boost pipes clamps as it's only jubilee clips ATM to blew a hose off the other day when I was adjusting the vacuum solenoid
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How's this going?
[Image: siggy1.jpg]

the smokey old bus that sounds like a tractor...
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