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Special tools bought so far for disassembly
Head bolt tool
T55 Torx Key Bit Socket Approx 78mm overall length and 1/2 square drive
note!
OK for disassembly but will need a longer one to reassemble if you want to assemble the cams in the head off of the block,
as it wont fit between the cam carriers once the cams are installed.
Valve spring compressor
Needs to be able to compress the springs within the recesses of the head and leave room to remove the valve Colet's
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Top tip!!
keep all your bolts in sets and seperate them from each other
ie:
inlet mani bolts
exhust mani bolts
rocker cover bolts
cam carrier bolts
cambelt cover bolts
ect ect
it makes it easyer to sort out which bolt go's where
i have used bank bags for this, there free go and ask for some at the bank
have spent a couple of hours cleaning off the cam carriers and covers, there are no gaskets used here only assembly snot that sticks it all together looks like araldite when its gone off
i used a stanley craft knife blade,wire wool,and a wire brush
Dont remove the grey rubbery gasket on the cam covers as this is reusable just clean it up,
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Nice work mate. Looking really clean.
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My my, so organised. You're a fart smeller Paul
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If i was you Cully, replace them cam pulleys with the later single bolt versions. Them ones have a known issue where they let go! Would be shit to do all this hard work for you to mash the top end up if they break!
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(06-10-2013, 06:09 PM)Niall Wrote: If i was you Cully, replace them cam pulleys with the later single bolt versions. Them ones have a known issue where they let go! Would be shit to do all this hard work for you to mash the top end up if they break!
Like what just happened to mine? :'(
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(06-10-2013, 06:11 PM)callumcull Wrote: (06-10-2013, 06:09 PM)Niall Wrote: If i was you Cully, replace them cam pulleys with the later single bolt versions. Them ones have a known issue where they let go! Would be shit to do all this hard work for you to mash the top end up if they break!
Like what just happened to mine? :'(
Shit . They didnt do too well when designing the 6 engine for non belt breaking. lol
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ok if i were to change to the later single bolt pulleys would i have to change to the later cambelt with the auto tensioner
as my set up has the stronger manual tensioner i bellieve the later belts have an extra tooth??
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Any idea where I'd be able to pick up those cam pulleys so I can fit them when/if I find a sound engine to buy and fit in my 6? :/
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(06-10-2013, 06:16 PM)cully Wrote: ok if i were to change to the later single bolt pulleys would i have to change to the later cambelt with the auto tensioner
as my set up has the stronger manual tensioner i bellieve the later belts have an extra tooth??
Nope they are exactly the same diameter. You can use either type of tensioner but you have to match it to the right belt. I think the auto plastic type is the 137 tooth belt and the manual metal one is 136.
(06-10-2013, 06:16 PM)callumcull Wrote: Any idea where I'd be able to pick up those cam pulleys so I can fit them when/if I find a sound engine to buy and fit in my 6? :/
Any late ph2 or ph3 gti engine mate
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(06-10-2013, 06:23 PM)callumcull Wrote: But, my 6 is ph2...
Late ph2s. So ph2.5 really lol. Find someone breaking a PH3 and it will definitely have them on.
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SHIT gotta give this new engine the best chance of staying alive
Didn't know they a bad problem !
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Awesome progress buddy
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been on the phone today trying to find info about head heights std and max skim depths
the engine machine shop that my mate uses didn't know the tech on the XU10J4RS head so had to think who to phone,
i chanced my luck and phoned Peugeot Exeter and i got through to a helpful chap who did the trawling and phoned me back
according to Peugeot Exeter
the 16valve rs head should be stamped on the casting with an ® on the inlet side near the cam sensor on a machined plate.
the maximum you can skim the head is 0.2mm
the head new hight between finished faces Top>Bottom between cam seal end is
137mm New so the maximum you can skim too is 136.8mm
and guess what my head is................yup 136.8mm
so now Ive got to find out if the head is true/flat so tomorrow in my dinner hour
if found that we have an engineers plate in work and some engineers blue so i should be able to do this myself
but the engine place my mate uses did say he would check it for free
his prices for work are
skim £25+vat
3 seat cut valve grind is £5.50+Vat per valve
so tomorrow will tel me if i have a flathead
other info i found
8 valve head stamped R2, new hight 137mm, max skim 0.4mm.
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Getting some great information here cully. Keeping a very close eye on this.
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the head is saved!
ok
to check the head for true
sheet of glass on a flat surface, coat the glass in engineers blue which is a dyed grease,
now rub the head in a figure of eight motion on the glass and blue,
role head over and the high spots will pick up the blue on the head the unmarked areas are low points,
my head was almost all covered,
so i decided to "lap" the head instead of haveing it skimmed as the head was at its maximum cut
to lap the head is the same principle as the engineers blue method but with fine grinding paste,
coat glass with fine grinding/lapping compound
place head on glass and rub in the figure 8 motion
perodicly check buy turning head over you are now looking for a unifom grey finish
this then means you have taken enough meterial off to flaten the high spots
you can recheck this with the engineers blue but you can see the finish easy when you clean the face with WD40 it looks clean and grey
remember you need to clean the head well as you have used gringing compound
you dont want this in the engine
so now i have 16 Valves to clean and to lap in should take me a while
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I swore after lapping the valves on my 1.8 head i wouldnt touch another. Shame i couldnt stick to that! lol
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Awesome i love how clean the surfaces can look when they're properly sorted like this, hope the rest is as good
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ok finished head hight still at tollerance
and finished head face
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Fantastic work Paul, this engine will be very smooth and efficient if the rest of the build is this meticulous
Fancy doing a Bosch conversion on mine
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11-10-2013, 11:54 AM
(This post was last modified: 11-10-2013, 11:55 AM by cully.)
New Tool time!
i bought a 150mm wire brush for my bench grinder just for cleaning up the valves (£7 tool station)
it made light work of cleaning up the exhaust valves of the carbon deposits
on the stem side i only cleaned up to the valve guide so to minimise damage to the stem
valves are ready to be ground in once the heads pressure tested
Warning though!
always use goggles with these and any grinding wheels
your eyes are important to you
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Great little tip on the glass and fine grinding paste there cully!
Great progress!
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12-10-2013, 02:56 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-10-2013, 03:27 PM by cully.)
might of got a little carried away with the alloy primer
Valve grinding quick how to!
1. Take the correct valve for the valve port you have stored,
NOTE: the valve seat and the head seat how the mating surfaces are rough and discoloured this is poor seating
2. add small amount of fine valve grinding compound to valve seat area only
NOTE: dont get this on the valve stem as it will mess up the guides
3. slide valve carefully into valve guide using hand tool, using palms of both hands rub the stick as if your trying to light a fire
3. after a short period remove valve clean surfaces to check for seating
NOTE: you are looking for the grey colour ring, all around the valve seat and the head seat
things to watch for
bent valve!
if you have a bent valve the head seat will cut to the gray ring, but the valve will only show part the grey ring !
you have a scrap valve, no matter how much grinding you do you probably wont recover the valve before you grind the seat too deap
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oscolating drill for the win when doing valve seats!!!
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(12-10-2013, 03:30 PM)Piggy Wrote: oscolating drill for the win when doing valve seats!!!
+1 but go slowly and be careful
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12-10-2013, 07:32 PM
(This post was last modified: 12-10-2013, 07:33 PM by cully.)
(12-10-2013, 03:58 PM)devils_fuel Wrote: (12-10-2013, 03:30 PM)Piggy Wrote: oscolating drill for the win when doing valve seats!!!
+1 but go slowly and be careful
not going to be spending £30 on a valve lapper
when that could pay for head bolts and a waterpump
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I normally use coarse then fine.
but gets long winded and hurts ya hands with a 16v!!!
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more paint
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