2.2 Dimma Hdi

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2.2 Dimma Hdi
Nah according to the previous owner it was 235bhp at its best

Andy (theywhoshallnotbenamed) Wrote:Proven running a hearty 235bhp and 400lb-ft torque at it's best... although the turbo needs a bit of work before it gets wound back up to that level it still gives most cars a run for their money, albeit a smoky run

Doesn't appear to be any dyno graphs for it.
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I think 230 bhp is pretty plausible from this setup

How is the vnt being controlled?

Did the company who refurbed your turbo say anything about why the previous one failed?
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F'ing epicly beautiful car man.. Seriously.
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Has this got an LSD? How the hell do you manage to put that power down! I struggled with a measly 180bhp and 300lbsft
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S'what you get for running nangkangs sean Tongue
[Image: Ty8kl7b.jpg]
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As above lol, also learn to boost. :p

235, that was it. No reason it couldn't smash that now. Wink
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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(30-09-2013, 11:08 AM)Poodle Wrote: As above lol, also learn to boost. :p

235, that was it. No reason it couldn't smash that now. Wink

Nah it was 235bhp when Lars first mapped it so Id guess it'll probably be pretty much spot on that if not a little better with a more efficient cooling system.

I've gotta say i think whoever said 400lb/ft to Andy probably meant 400nm although that turbo has got to boost well low down so I'm willing to be proved wrong.
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I didn't have nankangs on the hdi! Had good brand new tyres!
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Which good brand?
[Image: Ty8kl7b.jpg]
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(30-09-2013, 12:27 PM)Dum-Dum Wrote:
(30-09-2013, 11:08 AM)Poodle Wrote: As above lol, also learn to boost. :p

235, that was it. No reason it couldn't smash that now. Wink

Nah it was 235bhp when Lars first mapped it so Id guess it'll probably be pretty much spot on that if not a little better with a more efficient cooling system.

I've gotta say i think whoever said 400lb/ft to Andy probably meant 400nm although that turbo has got to boost well low down so I'm willing to be proved wrong.

Yeah, that'll be 400nm torque...
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Wink
Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
Volvo V50 D5 R-Design SE Sport - Daily cruise wagon.
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Chris, you just said it was 235bhp, how could it have only been 235lb/ft, mine was 220lb/ft on the stage ! 400 has got to be nm though lol.
306 HDi Deathtrap - 130bhp / 220lbft
...UPGRADING...



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(30-09-2013, 03:19 PM)Poodle Wrote: Chris, you just said it was 235bhp, how could it have only been 235lb/ft, mine was 220lb/ft on the stage ! 400 has got to be nm though lol.



Eh???


















Ninja edit ftmfw
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The guy that refurbed the turbo said he had never seen one so bad in 16 years so he wasn't actually able to work out what caused it to go.

The vnt is controlled by the ecu, it has a map sensor added in and a vacuum controller for the turbo.

I'm still getting it set up at the moment, it's very smokey at the moment, I can adjust the controller which brings boost in lower down but it's as if the vanes aren't opening up because it ends up with stupid max boost, so it's turned down at the moment so I didn't kill the turbo again.

I ordered another vacuum controller today so that should be here Wednesday then I will see if that is any better, if not going to check the map sensor and see if that is faulty.

There is a new dyno being put in in college so once it's running okay I can get it on there and actually see what's its producing Smile
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Right so the new vacuum solanoid turned up today, got it fitted, took it for a drive and it was boosting nice, cleared up the smoke apart from a bit of puff which is fine.

But then it started cutting boost out whilst under load.

I parked it up for a bit then went out in it again and it's now not really boosting at all.
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Still trying to get my head around how this is controlled

Is it using a vac actuator intended for original wategate turbo, but remapped in the ecu to control vnt?

Can you do any diags on the actuator - like a sweep from open to closed like you can on vag motors?

What vac solenoid are you using?

Might be worth doing diags on the map, tps and rpm sensors too as they should all feedback into the control, assuming its 3d mapped rather than just one set desired boost, in which case you might as well sack it off and stick a boost can on.
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Yeah it the standard vac solenoid from the 2.2hdi which would control the wastegate, which Is now used to control the vnt by the Ecu.

When I first out the new solenoid on is what operating correctly bringing boost in around 2k and not letting it exceed 30 psi.

I'm not sure what can be through diagnostics as haven't tried it yet.

I have p planet so will see what I can do with that.
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(01-10-2013, 05:46 PM)Jimmer021 Wrote: Right so the new vacuum solanoid turned up today, got it fitted, took it for a drive and it was boosting nice, cleared up the smoke apart from a bit of puff which is fine.

But then it started cutting boost out whilst under load.

I parked it up for a bit then went out in it again and it's now not really boosting at all.

Sounds like a vac leak causing the car to over boost and when it senses too much boost for more than a second or 2 it cuts the fuel to protect the engine.

Unless you've killed another turbo lol
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vac leak would cause zero boost, fail state protection - as vac actuator needs vacuum to close vanes and create boost.

But yes might be worth checking vac lines for leaks, I've had them split which caused intermittent boost loss as the vac leaked out.
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Unless Im very wrong the car uses vac to open the vanes just like it uses vac to open the actuator on the standard 406. It is a common faulton the 406s to have a vac leak on the line between the actuator and the solenoid.
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Okay I will check vac pipes, and I don't think the Ecu does anything if it overboosts as I have seen off the gauge pressures, this is what made me think possibly the map sensor is faulty as then the Ecu wouldn't know what boost it is running
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Need to get handle on how this is mapped / grafted into existing system - can you ask previous owner?

If its the actuator that is oem to the turbo, it will close vanes / makes boost with vac applied.
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All I know is that it was mapped by lars in Denmark who has tuned a few 2.0 and 2.2 hdis.

http://www.efterz.com/lars/turbo_guide/h..._turbo.htm

There is some info on the bottom of there about the vac solenoid and map sensor
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If I block the atmospheric feed on the solenoid whilst it's idling it will move the the vnt arm so there can't be any vacuum issues, the solenoid is show battery voltage to one pin and 2.4 volts on the other pin.

The map sensor has a 5 volt feed and and a 1.7 volt output at idle.

I'm guessing when the engine conversion was done they left the swirl flaps in the inlet as you can hear the engine note change when you when I move the arm, in one position it doesn't smoke at all and won't build any boost or run properly over 3k so guessing this is shut?

And the other position it will build about 12 psi eventually and smoke lots.

So need to look at removing them at some point.

Could the problems be that the new solenoid is faulty? It was 2nd hand
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After watching a couple of of videos on you tube I'm going to concede that I was wrong and that vac closes the vanes on the turbo. Probably good that I learnt that now before I played with mine.

I can't see how the swirl flaps are making so much difference to the ability to make boost.
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Yeah, full vac will close the vanes

I'm guessing it's because when they are shut the engine can't draw as much as air? Therefore not as much exhaust gas to spool the turbo as the vanes are wide open?
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But it should draw the same air just at higher velocity as you still have the same draw of the piston moving downwards and creating a vacuum

Its really weird cos on my 406 2.2 Id removed the control for the swirl flaps and it made no discernible difference weather open or closed.
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Oh okay :/

Either way I think it's best to remove them
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(02-10-2013, 02:58 PM)Jimmer021 Wrote: Oh okay :/

Either way I think it's best to remove them

Yeah mine are coming out of this engine.
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Swirl flaps are there to help generate more swirl for power at low rpms

People remove them from the 3.0 bmws as they tend disintegrate

shouldn't make much difference if they're there or not really
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I tried another vacuum selenoid incase the other one was faulty but was no different, so I plugged it into peugeot planet, first of all it's running a 406 ecu.

First of all I checked the fault codes, came up with all of these:

[Image: 85919AF8-593E-4336-9020-5DA4998D882C-123...ed1f84.jpg]

I was going to check the live data readings on the map sensor but my laptop was flat so couldn't drive it and monitor what's happening, so will have a look at that tomorrow.

Obviously the fan and egr faults are irrelevant as they aren't plugged in, an don't think the 3rd piston deactivation Is plugged in either.
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