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I have one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TURBO-MANUAL-B...33590834bd
However I cant get it to adjust past 20 psi or so even with it at its max setting.
With this disconnected it boosts to around 30 psi.
Are there any others similar to this that have a better/more adjustment, or would a stiffer spring inside work better?
CONVOI EXCEPTIONNEL
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02-07-2013, 11:01 PM
(This post was last modified: 02-07-2013, 11:01 PM by ADV_93.)
This is the one i ordered for mine pal! Sticking it on Friday hopefully!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MANUAL-BOOST-C...1e5ee7b302
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03-07-2013, 05:45 AM
(This post was last modified: 03-07-2013, 05:46 AM by Piggy.)
the first one should work fine...mine is at 24psi and I have lots of adjustment left.
the one ADV has ordered IMO is crap as it bleeds out the boost which in effect causes a boost leak. no thanks!
you could put a washer inside to increase the spring pressure...or a tougher spring
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(03-07-2013, 05:45 AM)Piggy Wrote: the first one should work fine...mine is at 24psi and I have lots of adjustment left.
the one ADV has ordered IMO is crap as it bleeds out the boost which in effect causes a boost leak. no thanks!
you could put a washer inside to increase the spring pressure...or a tougher spring
How is it crap? it does exactly the same as the screw type? Explain "bleeds out the boost" please, my boost controller knowledge isn't all that. I've seen these work fine
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No, the first type works by stopping boost hitting the actuator until the desired pressure is reached. 2nd type literally just bleeds off boost to atmosphere.. may do the same 'job' but will increase lag and turbo inefficiency
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(03-07-2013, 01:34 PM)Midnightclub Wrote: No, the first type works by stopping boost hitting the actuator until the desired pressure is reached. 2nd type literally just bleeds off boost to atmosphere.. may do the same 'job' but will increase lag and turbo inefficiency
Well that is exactly how the 2nd type works isn't it? Like i say i've seen these work on cars and they don't seem to have much lag to me
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No, it allows the boost to bleed out to atmosphere.
So you have a boost leak basically.
The first type doesnt do that.
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The bleed valve is just an adjustable boost leak in the line to the wastegate. This still limits your boost but the wastegate response isnt as good creating more lag. The proper MBC doesn't let the actuator 'see' any boost at all until the desired boost is met
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All of them allow it to leak to atmosphere... How do you think the ball in the spring type drops back when the boost drops
TBH there's actually little difference between the ball-spring types and the bleed valve types, it's just that the ball-spring ones are much more controllable, the ball-spring ones don't quite stop it until desired boost then open suddenly - the ball instead just rattles up and down under the spring... It stops those first 2-3lbs of boost getting to the actuator, but in reality, won't actually cause a massive difference...
The bleed valve ones simply have to be closed SO tight up to make any difference, it means that about 1/8th of a turn will go from loadsa boost to f*ck all boost because it exponentially restricts the amount of air that can get through in reality.
(16-05-2016, 10:45 AM)Toms306 Wrote: Oh I don't care about the stripped threads lol, that's easily solved by hammering the bolt in. Nanstone GTD5 GT17S - XUD9TE
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03-07-2013, 06:51 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-07-2013, 06:51 PM by Piggy.)
Have to show me how the ball and spring type leaks to atmosphere though....There aint no holes/tubes/pipes/entries or exits other than the two!
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Piggy I have the same type of controller as you do (the Mumby developments one) and there is definitely a small hole in it.
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What is the best boost controller to go for as i might be looking in to getting 1?
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03-07-2013, 08:23 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-07-2013, 08:23 PM by 306Puggy.)
(03-07-2013, 07:21 PM)Piggy Wrote: Nope. no hole in mine.
If you look at this picture you can see the hole in the top:
It wouldn't do anything without the hole in it.
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I have the same one as you sir ^^ And mine also has a hole in :p
Doesnt even own a 306.
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So infact having either you're just "controlling a boost leak"
Doesn't really matter which one you go for then
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(04-07-2013, 12:55 PM)ADV_93 Wrote: So infact having either you're just "controlling a boost leak"
Doesn't really matter which one you go for then
i think it's generally accepted that the ball and spring type is the better of the two . .
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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(04-07-2013, 01:08 PM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: (04-07-2013, 12:55 PM)ADV_93 Wrote: So infact having either you're just "controlling a boost leak"
Doesn't really matter which one you go for then
i think it's generally accepted that the ball and spring type is the better of the two . .
"better"
tbh, my car doesn't have enough power for it to really matter which type i use...
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crack on then lol........if it doesn't matter stick a fcuking potato up your exhaust too
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(05-07-2013, 01:12 AM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: crack on then lol........if it doesn't matter stick a fcuking potato up your exhaust too
Lmao, since i fitted a 405 intercooler, it's gotten worse lag, or i can feel it more because i'm used to it? Also, will winding in the boost compensator screw a turn or two to reduce off boost smoke, effect performance?
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The screw on the lda cap should be wound all the way out to allow the pin to travel further up reducing off boos fueling and smoke.
Doesnt even own a 306.
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(05-07-2013, 01:05 PM)ADV_93 Wrote: (05-07-2013, 01:12 AM)Mattcheese31 Wrote: crack on then lol........if it doesn't matter stick a fcuking potato up your exhaust too
Lmao, since i fitted a 405 intercooler, it's gotten worse lag, or i can feel it more because i'm used to it? Also, will winding in the boost compensator screw a turn or two to reduce off boost smoke, effect performance?
winding it in will increase off boost smoke . . . . .also the 405 intercooler is smaller than the 306 one in my experience and doesn't line up with the bonnet lining, swap it back, you're probs getting worse heat soak . .
(05-07-2013, 01:20 PM)Tom Wrote: The screw on the lda cap should be wound all the way out to allow the pin to travel further up reducing off boos fueling and smoke.
this is true, but only if you've upped the max fuel beforehand . .
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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Or if you plan to up max fuel just after...
Doesnt even own a 306.
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(05-07-2013, 04:03 PM)Tom Wrote: Or if you plan to up max fuel just after...
Phase 1 D-Turdo, K14@24 psi, De-cat, meaty backbox, Bosch pump, grinded LDA pin, duel air fed K&N =133.7bhp & 188ft/lbs
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