Thinking of buying another

[Slammed 66]

Hey chaps,

Just a quick one as it's quite late,

I owned a couple of D turbos around ten years ago and wasn't really too fussed about economy back then as I was getting free diesel, but now it's quite important.

I'm thinking of getting another dturbo, either xud or hdi.

What's best for tuning? I've heard bad reports about hdi reliability, is that true? Are they hard to get power from?

And finally, what sort of economy should I expect from a tuned XUD or HDI?

Thanks in advance

Ross

[bashbarnard]

Ahh the age old argument on xud vs hdi. 50 % of people on here will insist xud running veg oil bosch pump etc. The other 50% will say hdi with soe description of a map. It really comes own to what yo prefer. Personally I like xud. No ecus easy to fix maintain and you can run on veg. See if you can test drive a couple. That way you will know what you prefer

[WiNgNuTz]

Tbh, I've had both HDi and XUD now, and I still cant really choose a side per se. They both have their good points and bad, and it really does just come down to personal preference. The XUD is easy to tune and maintain due to lack of ecu, but its quite raw and noisy, whereas the HDi is quiet and refined, but fairly pokey (baring in mind mines still got the stock ecu software, but i was surprised how pokey it was for standard), but you've got an electronic brain to work around when tuning.

So yeah, just depends what you're after from your tuning experience really. Can't say ive heard much about HDi's being unreliable...wouldnt say they're hard to get power from, as long as you've got the equipment and knowledge to do it, or know someone that has. Theres a good few members on here that are able to remap HDi's, so that shouldn't be a problem. XUD is a simple case of turning various screws to increase fuelling and power.

[Toms306]

Don't go back to them, they haven't aged well lol, and definitely take off those rose tinted glasses that you remember them with...

But if you must, quick answer is stage 1 HDi is easy if you have a laptop and will do better mpg. Stage 1 XUD is easy if you can work out which screw does what on the pump and will be cheaper to run on veg despite doing less mpg.

As for reliability, I've heard a lot of bad reports of XUD reliability. Both engines have their weak points, HDi's tend to be sensors, in tank lift pumps and crank pulleys. XUDs tend to be conrods and headgaskets....

Its down to personal preference, and I'd prefer the one that leaves the engine in one piece when it fails lol. But I also have diagnostic software which is useful for HDi fault finding, becomes more tricky without.

[Slammed 66]

Well, I did it anyway.

Just picked up a cheap ph1 d turbo. Feels really lacking in power. I'm thinking the turbo isn't doing too much as there's not much sound of boost being built and there's plenty of smoke out the exhaust which would be running too rich? The pump hasn't been touched so I think it's just not making boost and is going rich because of it. Anyway. It seems good on fuel and it's comfy enough.

It'll do just fine for tooling to work and back in but even more so when it's making proper power.

Thanks
Ross

[Curt]

Welcome to the forum .

Sounds like there's a boost leak somewhere.

[Slammed 66]

Sounds like there's a boost leak somewhere.

Not sure to be honest. I just don't think there was a lot going on.

I've rectified the lack of power thanks to the awesome guide on here of adjusting the lda pin and bolt on the top cover. Plumbed in a boost gauge and it's now peaking at 1.1bar and holding .98bar. Not too much smoke but goes really well now.

I guess this is what's referred to as a stage 1?

Also removed the gay chrome plastic cone filter and put an old hks mushroom on there and it can actually breathe now.

I may even start a project thread.

[Curt]

No, that's not a stage 1 tune. That involves upping the fueling and boost, usually to around 18-20psi. 1 bar is standard boost... If all you've done is adjust the LDA, you haven't altered that.

[Slammed 66]

Ah right, that's the fuel screws on either side of the pump is it? I'll get the spanners out again tonight.

[bashbarnard]

Look in the guides section. As a quick one the max fuel is on right hand side of the pump just bove where injector lines go in. Screws on back of pump are idle hot and idle cold.

[Slammed 66]

Took your advice bashbarnard and followed the 'fine tuning' guide.

Wound out the throttle stop so that on full chat the throttle arm hits the pump body. Also decided to try winding the max fuel screw in by 3 turns. As soon as I started it the engine was screaming it's cock off. The best I've managed was 3/4 of a turn inwards which also included adjusting the hot idle screw.

A short spin up the road from first to third and I'm very happy. Can't say that whoever follows me will be so happy

I did however inadvertently adjust the cold idle screw by mistake so I'm hoping it fires up ok in the morning still.

Thanks again.

[Curt]

3 turns is waay too much, so no surprise there... Did you not adjust the turbo? As you will need to up the boost slightly to go with the increase in fuel, otherwise you'll just turn it into smoke.

[Slammed 66]

The guide suggested that it'd be 6 turns before it started maxing out so I thought 3 would be over cautious tbh. Guess not though.

I'll be adjusting the boost on Saturday after I've fitted my new exhaust. I'm presuming the lack of back pressure will lift the boost by a pound or two so I'll wait til it's fitted before fitting an mbc.